LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 



Shelf „'_L.JLb 



UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



Ornamental Gardening 

FOR 

AMERICANS. 



A TREATISE ON 



BEAUTIFYING HOMES, EUKAL DISTEIOTS, 
TOWNS, AND OEMETEEIES. 



BY / 
ELIAS A. LONG, 

LANDSCAPE ARCHITECT ; AUTHOR OP " THE HOME FLORIST.' 



i 



ILLUSTRATED. 




OEANGE JUDD COMPANY, 

751 BKOADWAY. 

1885. 



Entered, according to Act of Congress, in the year 1884, by the 

ORANGE JUDD COMPANY, 

In the Office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 









PREFACE. 



This book was written with a view of furnishing a low- 
priced, comprehensive American work on Landscape, or 
more properly, Ornamental Gardening. A great degree 
of conciseness was aimed at, with the desire to bring a 
large amount of information on all departments of the 
subject into a small compass. And now the completed 
work goes forth in the hope that it will more fully meet 
the want for information of this kind than any work ever 
issued in this country, at even several times its price. 

I acknowledge with great pleasure the help found — 
especially in preparing the lists and descriptions of trees, 
shrubs and plants, in the works of J. C. Loudon, "W. 
Eobinson, Josiah Hoopes, Frank J. Scott, and a few 
others, whose names appear in their proper places in the 
body of the book. Mention must also be made of the 
kindness of Messrs. Ellwanger & Barry, of Eochester, 
1ST. Y., in at all times throwing open their nursery and 
specimen grounds, to my inspection, as an aid in pre- 
paring the descriptions in this department. 

To Dr. George Thurber, editor of the American Agri- 
culturist, I am specially indebted for valuable aid and 
(m) 



suggestions received, and for his interest in the work 
from the first. I am also indebted to the kindness of the 
Publishers of the last named periodical for the use of 
engravings, that appear in the descriptions of trees and 
plants. 

If my book shall be of service in increasing a love for 
Ornamental Gardening and kinded delights throughout 
America ; leading those who consult its pages in the way 
of genuine pleasure, healthfulness, and profit in these, 
my highest ambition shall have been satisfied. 

Elias A. Long. 

Buffalo, N. Y., November, 1884. 



CONTENTS 



PART I.— Introductory. 

CHAPTEK I. 

Introduction 9 

Glances at the Past, Present and Future. — The Require- 
ments of American Ornamental Gardening. — Ornamental 
Gardening Literature. — American Progress in Special 
Branches. — American Architecture and Gardening. — Orna- 
mental Gardening for Americans. 

CHAPTER IL 
Profits of Ornamental Gardening 16 

CHAPTER IIL 
Time required to produce Good Effects 20 

PAET II. — Materials of Ornamental Gardening. 

CHAPTER IV. 
The Ground and the Grass , 23 

CHAPTER V. 
Woody growths 25 

CHAPTER VL 
Deciduous Trees and Shrubs 27 

CHAPTER VII. 
Evergreen Trees and Shrubs 99 

CHAPTER VIII. 
Climbers and Trailers 118 

CHAPTER IX. 

Hardy Herbaceous Plants 124 

CHAPTER X. 
Annual Plants 156 



VI CONTENTS. 

CHAPTER XI. 
Tender Plants 15S 

CHAPTER XII. 
Miscellaneous Natural Materials 160 

PART III.— Arrangement of Ornamental Gardens. 

CHAPTER XIII. 
Principles and Aims 101 

Nature as a Teacher. — Major and Minor Features of Embel- 
lishment. — Variety. —Order and Simplicity. — Unity and 
Harmony. — Character. — Expression. — Convenience.— 
Breadth and Extent.— Richness and Finish. 

CHAPTER XIV. 
The Home Buildings 166 

CHAPTER XV. 
The Surface of the Garden 167 

CHAPTER XVI. 
Walks and Drives 177 

CHAPTER XVII. 

Use and Combination of Grass, Trees, Shrubs, etc 183 

CHAPTER XVIII. 
Climbers and their uses 199 

CHAPTER XIX. 
Flowering and Ornamental Plants 206 

CHAPTER XX. 
Rockwork 221 

CHAPTER XXI 
Water Features in the Garden 327 

CHAPTER XXII. 

Hedges and Clipped Trees 231 

CHAPTER XXIIL 

Garden Structures 236 

CHAPTER XXIV. 
Plans of Private Residence Grounds 247 



CONTEXTS. VII 

CHAPTER XXV. 
Portico, Window and Roof Gardening 265 

CHAPTER XXVI. 

School, Church, Asylum, Hotel, and Railroad Gardening 272 

CHAPTER XXVII. 
Public Parks and Pleasure Grounds 279 

Future and Present Wants to be Considered. — An Ideal Sys- 
tem of Public Lawn Gardening. — "Beautiful Paris" as a 
Model. — Paris, Past, Present, and Future. — The Lesson for 
American Enterprise. — The Large Park System.— Garden 
Boulevards. — A glance at Central Park, N. Y. — Small Town 
Parks. — Town Squares.— Planting Public Highways.— Rural 
Improvement Associations. 

CHAPTER XXVIII. 
Garden Cemeteries 301 

PAET IV.— Constructing Gardens. 

CHAPTER XXIX. 
Planning Garden Improvements 308 

CHAPTER XXX. 
Laying out the Grounds 310 

CHAPTER XXXI. 
The Work on the Grounds 312 

CHAPTER XXXII. 
Planting 320 

CHAPTER XXXIII. 
Lawn Making 321 

CHAPTER XXXIV. 
Walks and Drives 327 

CHAPTER XXXV. 
Preparation for Special Purposes 331 

CHAPTER XXXVI. 
Garden Architecturs 335 



VIII CONTENTS. 

PART V.— Maintaining Gardens. 

CHAPTER XXXVII. 
January 337 

CHAPTER XXXVIII. 
February 339 

CHAPTER XXXIX. 
March 346 

CHAPTER XL. 
April 349 

CHAPTER XLI. 
May 353 

CHAPTER XL1I. 
June 357 

CHAPTER XLIII. 
July, August 361 

CHAPTER XLIV. 
September C64 

CHAPTER XLV. 
October 363 

CHAPTER XLVI. 
November, December 368 



Ornamental Gardening for Americans, 



PART I. 
INTRODUCTORY. 

CHAPTEK I. 
INTRODUCTION. 

GLANCES AT THE PAST, PRESENT, AND FUTURE. 

The art of Ornamental Gardening is, undoubtedly, 
backward in America at the present time. Progress is 
more apparent in some other arts ; for example, those of 
architecture and interior decoration. There is nothing 
strange in this, however; our nation is comparatively 
young, and whatever is closely related to the useful 
arts, has had opportunities to develop, which ornamental 
gardening, painting, and other arts have not enjoyed. 
House building has received great attention from the 
first, and it is natural that, as prosperity increases, a love 
for the beautiful should manifest itself in this sooner 
than in the more independent fine arts. Neither is it 
strange that gardening, and other arts of this class, in 
America should contrast unfavorably with the same in 
some European countries, for long before the birth of our 
nation these arts have had abroad a comparatively ^ree 
field in which to advance. 
(9) 



10 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

If our backwardness in the fine arts is thus accounted 
for, the grounds upon which to base predictions of future 
progress, are no less clearly defined ; while in the pioneer 
century there was naturally a lack of means, to-day, 
wealth, rapidly developing taste, and in fact, everything 
needed for fostering the fine arts, abound with us. Notlir 
ing shows our real progress more strikingly than our 
decennial census returns. Ninety years ago there were 
less than four millions of people in the entire United 
States. Sixty years ago there were not yet ten millions ; 
at thirty years ago we had reached nearly twenty-three, 
and 1880 showed a population of about fifty millions. 
Wonderful as are these figures, our general prosperity 
has more than kept pace with them. To-day the large 
percentage of people owning homes ; the thousands of 
savings banks to care for the surplus money of the masses ; 
the multitude of possessors of moderate and of great 
wealth, all tell of a degree of prosperity unparalleled in any 
other country. This state of things is destined to have a 
marked effect upon the future of the fine arts in America. 
Great Britain, France, and other European nations, 
may surpass us in conservatories, gardens and parks to- 
day, but the time will come when we must excel in all of 
these, as we do in most of the useful arts and inventions. 

THE REQUIREMENTS OF AMERICAN ORNAMENTAL GAR- 
DENING. 

What is needed more than all else, is popular education 
with respect to the beauty, adaptability, and arrange- 
ments of the subjects of the vegetable kingdom for 
creating delightful garden and providing fine landscape 
effects. This is a matter in which the average American 
is far behind the Englishman, or the people of some 
other European countries. We are far from being a 
nation of garden lovers, or of people who take great 



IJSTKODUCTION. 11 

delight in beautiful, well arranged, home-gardens, and 
in caring for them. 

It should be better known, that there are fully one 
thousand different species and varieties of ornamental 
trees and shrubs, besides great numbers of hardy flower- 
ing plants, all possessing distinct features of beauty, that 
will thrive in the greater part of the United States. One 
who walks among our home gardens and grounds, and 
sees the same plants in each, might suppose that only a 
few scores of these were known. The same kinds, such as 
have always been planted, are repeated everywhere. The 
same fault is also conspicuous in many cemeteries and 
public parks. It is not too mueh to say that a degree of 
poverty generally prevails in our ornamentation of home 
grounds, that would not be tolerated in the interior fur- 
nishings, or in the appearance of the house itself. There 
are as good reasons for adhering to the fashions in houses 
of fifty years ago as to the selection and arrangement of 
trees that prevailed at that time. The reason why a knowl- 
edge of materials, their kinds, arrangement and needed 
care are essential to success in ornamental gardening, is be- 
cause fine results depend largely upon continued attention 
to keeping up the garden. When the architect has planned 
and finished the house, the interest in architecture, so 
far as that house is concerned, is at an end. But when a 
garden is planned and planted it remains a perpetual 
charge. If it is slighted or neglected, the original work 
of construction is well nigh lost. It is an intimate ac- 
quaintance with trees and plants, first in doing or in di- 
recting garden work, and later the watching their growth 
and development, that give to the occupation its great- 
est charm. 

THE LITEEATTJEE OF OENAMEHTAL GAEDESTI^G. 

A comparison of our garden literature with that of 
England, for example, indicates a general lack of interest 



12 OENAMENTAL GAEDENING. 

in the subject. We support but one periodical — a 
monthly, devoted to general ornamental and useful gar- 
dening. In London alone, there are published no less 
than five periodicals devoted to the subject, and these 
are weeklies, of large size. I make no mention of agricul- 
tural and other papers with good gardening departments, 
nor of the monthlies and "guides "that are issued by 
seedsmen and florists, for advertising purposes, as these 
are found on both sides of the Atlantic. The interest in 
the subject in England is also indicated by the numerous 
books treating on gardening. 

Such facts show that the English possess a much 
greater love for, and knowledge of, everything pertaining 
to gardening than do Americans. They also explain 
why many of our own native trees, shrubs, and flowers 
are better known and appreciated abroad than at home. 
These native trees, etc., are often introduced into cultiva- 
tion abroad and are sometimes brought back into our 
own gardens through the enterprise of foreign nursery- 
men and gardeners. 

AMEEICAN PEOGEESS IN" SPECIAL BEANCHES. 

To conclude that Americans are unable to appreciate 
beauty in the products of the gardener's art, would be a 
mistake. If we suffer by comparison with Europe, as re- 
gards general ornamental gardening, we may turn to the 
progress we have made in some special branches of the art, 
and from this take hope for the future. In the produc- 
tion and consumption of cut flowers, we see something 
like American spirit and enterprise. Millions of dollars 
are invested in the growing of flowers and plants, to 
meet a popular taste that hardly seemed to exist some 
fifteen years ago. From a small beginning this trade has 
developed year by year, until now we actually have 
reached a standing as producers and consumers of flowers, 
that is looked upon as another "American Wonder." 



INTRODUCTION". 13 

And why not, for there is nothing in all Europe to equal 
the American cut-flower trade. In London, for exam- 
ple, this trade is but a fraction, as compared with that 
of New York, though it has a population nearly three 
times as great. This state of affairs, though it may 
show developement in only a single direction, should be 
regarded with satisfaction, as its tendency must be to 
create a taste for general gardening. Certainly those 
who purchase flowers for the love of them are the better 
prepared to appreciate choice trees and shrubs and fine 
garden effects. 

The improved large cemeteries of America, show on 
the part of our people an appreciation of the finer results 
of the gardening art. Years ago Boston, Philadelphia, 
and some other cities, conceived the idea of roomy garden 
or park-like cemeteries, and large areas were laid out as 
ornamental gardens of sepulture near these cities. Now 
nearly every large city has an improved cemetery, and 
altogether there are in America a number of such burial 
places that are the most beautiful the world affords. 
There can be no doubt as to the value of these in culti- 
vating a love for general ornamental gardening. 

Good progress has been made in America of late 
years, in the matter of public parks and gardens. These 
afford the room for planting fine collections of trees, 
shrubs, etc., and some now contain extensive plantations 
of these, affording opportunities to the people for be- 
coming acquainted with kinds, and effective arrange- 
ments. In the Buffalo Parks and Boulevards, more than 
forty thousand trees, shrubs and vines, in over four 
hundred varieties, were planted within the past ten years, 
and are rapidly developing their beauty. It is noticeable 
that as this rather extensive arboretum develops, the 
appreciation of arboreal beauty increases among the 
people, inciting new interest in adorning homes with 
trees and shrubs. For several years associations for the 



14 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

improvement of towns and villages have been in success- 
ful operation. These, by planting trees and promoting 
a love for gardening, have already produced excellent 
results. Such societies are full of promise, and their 
existence shows a proper public spirit. 

It is gratifying to note that instances in which persons 
of means provide free pleasure gardens for the people are 
becoming more numerous. The work of rural improve- 
ment in the State of Connecticut is receiving inestimable 
aid, from men like Mr. Henry C. Bowen — who at his 
own expense, has laid out a public park of sixty acres 
and given it to the people of Woodstock, and the Field 
Brothers who have shown similar liberality at Haddam, 
Conn., and some others have followed their examples. 
In the West, Shaw of St. Louis, Wade of Cleveland, and 
others, have by their noble liberality made entire com- 
munities happier, healthier, and better, and the works 
stand as monuments more enduring than stone, keeping 
fresh for all time the memory of the worthy donors. 
Scarcely second in any sense to such benefactors, are 
those who throw open their magnificent private gardens 
to the public, to be freely enjoyed under reasonable 
restrictions. In time let us hope to see many followers 
of these worthy examples among the thousands who are 
favored with great wealth. 

AMERICAN ARCHITECTURE AND GARDENING. 

A taste for the beautiful developed in one field of art. is 
also a help to others. Land owners now-a-days, as they 
look from the modern artistically designed house to the 
garden, are with growing frecpiency, asking the questions, 
"is not the garden as susceptible of improvement as 
the house ? Cannot as great changes for the better be 
worked here, over the styles of a generation ago, as are 
being effected in our architecture ? " Extended observa- 
tion shows that thousands of property owners throughout 



INTRODUCTION. 15 

our land are putting such, questions. While it is often 
true that no direct means may be at hand for suggest- 
ing and carrying out fitting improvements, still the 
mere fact that conditions exist which suggest the ques- 
tions, is sure to hasten the day when gardens, and gar- 
den adornments, in keeping with our improved architec- 
ture, will prevail throughout the country. 

That various influences are at work in awakening 
the American public to its needs and opportunities in 
the line of improved ornamental grounds, there is little 
doubt. But there is great room for progress ; the field 
is a wide one. The best efforts of all who take an 
interest in this subject, amateurs and professional gar- 
deners ; florists and nurserymen ; editors and writers ; 
are needed for developing correct taste and methods, so 
that, as the demand for improved pleasure grounds in- 
creases, there may be at command the best possible sys- 
tem of these for our climate, and for the tastes and means 
of our people — one that shall be essentially American. 

"ORNAMENTAL GARDENING FOR AMERICANS." 

In order to contribute a share towards meeting the 
public want in this line, the present work has been pre- 
pared. With excellent opportunities for knowing the 
needs of the people, the author aims to present, in sim- 
ple style, plain instructions as to the materials, arrange- 
ment, construction, and keeping of private and public 
gardens. To make a book which should be suitable as a 
constant garden companion, convenient, reliable, com- 
prehensive, and practical, has been a constant aim. It is 
believed that the subjects are presented in so clear a 
manner that any intelligent person can, by its help, not 
only successfully undertake the oversight of an ordinary 
garden, whether doing the work with his or her own 
hands or directing others, but may, by study, become so 
familiar with this subject in all its departments, as to be 



16 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

proof against impositions by the ignorant who pretend to 
be gardeners, and also the representations of dishonest 
tree agents. 

Throughout the book the common names of plants are 
adhered too as much as possible, for the reason that the 
botanical names often prove a barrier to an acquaintance 
with them, while common ones invite it. But as the 
real need of botanical names is recognized — which being 
in the Latin language are the same in all nations, 
and serve to guard against the confusion that without 
them would be inevitable, they are given in parenthesis. 
In case no common name is in use, then the botanical 
name often is printed as though it was the common one. 

The same subject is often touched upon in different 
parts of the book, thus, the materials of a Rockery are 
referred to in the Second Part, the arrangement of the 
Rockery in Part Three, Construction in Part Four, with 
Notes on Management in Part Five. A copious index at 
the end will always lead to the desired topic. 



CHAPTER II. 

PROFITS OF ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

" I wouldn't cut down that tree for a hundred dollars," 
is an expression one may often hear from property owners, 
as they point to some favorite. The valuation of the 
tree is often placed two, three, or five times as high. 
What did such a tree cost ? Perhaps one or two dollars 
fifteen years or so ago for the tree, preparing the soil and 
planting, and next to nothing in the years since. From 
the time the roots took hold of the soil, and a beautiful 
show of foliage and branches appeared, increasing year 
by year in size, soon giving a pleasant shade and perhaps 



PKOFITS OF ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 17 

flowers, it has been a constant source of delight. Was 
the setting of that tree profitable, considering the value 
at which it is now appraised, and the pleasure it has af- 
forded ? Profits like these are in the common order of 
things in intelligent planting. 

In my experience, I have assisted in so improving a 
place of two acres in extent, by varying the grade, filling 
in marshy parts, arranging walks, drives, trees, and 
shrubs, that for an outlay of less than six hundred dol- 
lars, the improvement before the first season was past 
was so marked, as to increase the owner's asking price 
by twenty-five hundred dollars. 

Instances could be multiplied to show that, for from 
two to five per cent of the value of a place, spent on 
garden improvements, returns of from ten to sixty per 
cent in increased value have been realized in a short 
time. Trees, shrubs, climbers, and plants in choice 
kinds, well arranged, develop rapidly and greatly increase 
the valuation of a place, through augmenting the beauty 
of the architecture and the general effect. The presence 
of these always makes a less expensive house look finer 
than a costlier one, which presents nothing in the heat of 
summer, or in the storms of winter, for the eye to rest 
upon, but bare walls and harsh outlines, unbroken by 
any trees or other vegetation. 

Many a man with the means and disposition will pay 
several thousand dollars to architect, builder, and fur- 
nisher, for a house, with the view that the beauty and 
. comfort purchased will yield satisfaction proportionate to 
the cost. To such a person it may be said, that one thou- 
sand dollars prudently invested in arranging and plant- 
ing the home grounds, may be made to pay a much larger 
percentage of pure pleasure and interest, than the same 
amount put into the building. If one who is about in- 
vesting five thousand dollars, or a smaller or larger 
amount, in improving a home, should keep back five per 



18 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

cent of the sum and invest it in improving the surround- 
ings, it may be made to yield far better returns in the 
years to come, than if nearly all had been spent on the 
house, and a mere pittance allowed for the grounds. 

Will it pay to plant trees on the average farm? A view, 
such as may be sometimes had, of two farms, of the same 
size and general situation, but jiresenting strong con- 
trasts in the presence and absence of trees and shrubs 
respectively, may throw light on the question. One of the 
farms may have half a dozen large shade trees about the 
yard, some climbers over the piazzas and buildings ; 
dense clumps of evergreens, both for beauty and to serve 
as wind-breaks. It may also have a number of broad 
shade trees in the barn-yard, along the lanes, the boun- 
daries, creeks, and in other places where nothing else can 
be profitably grown, yielding grateful shade and shelter. 
The other has not a sign of sylvan beauty, with every 
part without shelter by trees from the summer's sun or 
the winter's gales. The trees on the first farm may 
have cost one hundred dollar's for stock, setting, etc., 
while any disinterested person would estimate the value 
they add to the place, at ten-fold greater than their cost. 

No other method can be devised for rendering farming 
a pleasant occupation to the young, than the judicious 
use of trees and garden beauty about the grounds. Our 
attachments to trees becomes almost as strong as to per- 
sons, and if there are fine ones growing about the home, 
and with them some good shrubs, climbers, flowers, etc., 
they will add new strength to the chain which binds 
the heart of youth to the hearthstone, and to the rural 
pursuits among which they have been reared. 

The view of this subject, which relates to gains far 
above those that can be computed in dollars, is an im- 
portant one. It has been said that " the hope of America 
is the homes of America," whatever adorns one's home 
— be that in the town or country — and ennobles his domes- 



PROFITS OF ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 19 

tic life, strengthens his love for country, and nurtures 
the better elements of the nature, in those who are 
thrown in contact with such improvements. To pro- 
mote a love for trees, shrubs, vines, and flowers, by cul- 
tivating and studying them, develops in children a love 
for the beautiful in nature, in art, and still more in char- 
acter. Nothing is truer than that the love of nature 
sharpens the senses, and quickens all the intellectual 
faculties. Were parents to provide to the fullest practi- 
cable degree, the simple means for encouraging the love 
of ornamental gardening, and of the study of Botany, 
and other closely allied sciences at home, they early secure 
for the young a source of high enjoyment, that is un- 
known elsewhere, one which elevates the mind and fills it 
with noble aspirations. Besides these things, the mere 
spending of time on the part of all, and especially of 
children and women, in the exercise and enjoyment that 
comes from associating with, and caring for plants, is 
highly conducive to health. It is largely because of their 
rambles and exercise in the open air by the women of 
England, that they generally present the bloom and vig- 
or of youth until far advanced in life. It would be both 
easy and inexpensive to provide the majority of American 
homes with these opportunities for health-giving exercise. 
It pays to do well whatever is done in ornamental 
and landscape gardening. In starting such work, it is 
too often undertaken without anything like a definite 
plan. It would be quite as reasonable to work without 
a well-considered plan in building our houses, yet we find 
that large sums of money in the aggregate are paid to 
architects for house-plans and superintendence of work, 
while for the surroundings, little thought is given to call- 
ing in the services of the trained gardener. When the 
day comes that the landscape gardener will be consulted 
along with the house architect, in matters of home im- 
provement, then a less sum of money will go farther to- 



20 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

wards purchasing real beauty, pleasure, and comfort, 
than when the latter alone is employed. 

A large part of the work of the landscape architect now 
consists in planning for the remodelling of places laid out 
years ago in bad taste and ignorance. In every instance 
of this kind, there is in some degree entailed the three- 
fold expense of first doing the work, then undoing it, 
and lastly doing it over again; had it been well conceived 
and executed at the first, the work would have answered 
for many years. 

In speaking of the profitable advantages of planting 
shade trees in cities, Mr. Thomas Meehan lately wrote as 
follows: 

"Passing through a street in Philadelphia, on which 
blocks of first-class houses had been erected on both 
sides, but evidently by two different owners, there ap- 
peared to be a wonderful difference in success by street 
trees alone. There was a pretty row of Carolina poplars 
on one side; on the other side no trees at all. This side 
had innumerable notices of houses 'to rent,' but on the 
tree-shaded side every house was occupied. Both blocks 
appeared to be houses of about equal age and value, and 
there was no apparent difference between the two. There 
seemed every reason to believe that the presence of trees 
alone had given the one side the great advantage." 



CHAPTER III. 

TIME REQUIRED FOR PRODUCING GOOD EFFECTS. 

There are many who love trees and shrubs, but are 
kept from planting them by false notions respecting the 
time it will take to secure a good effect and shade. It is 
possible to so treat trees, that in ten years they will not 
grow the same number of inches ; but on the other hand 



TIME REQUIRED FOR PRODUCING GOOD EFFECTS. 21 

they may, by fair management, reach a hight of from 
twice to three times as many feet in ten years from 
planting. The difference lies in matters that ordinarily 
are in a large degree within our control. When trees 
remain almost at a standstill for a long time, it indicates 
either that they were of poor quality when planted ; or, 
in rare cases, that the soil cannot be fitted to meet their 
wants, but very commonly that they are deprived of the 
food and moisture they would appropriate if they had a 
chance. Trees and plants are much like animals in this; 
that they may either be starved to death, or they may be 
liberally supplied with food and have proper care, to pro- 
duce the most satisfactory results as to development and 
beauty. As a general thing, deep trenching or subsoil- 
ing, with liberal manuring, and then thorough culture 
if the trees and shrubs are growing in borders, or free 
watering if standing in the sod in seasons of drouth, are 
the things needful for producing the best returns. Be- 
cause these points are not better heeded, three-fourths of 
all the trees and shrubs in private grounds are set out 
poorly, grow slowly, and hardly make a decent showing 
in a life-time. 

To show what growth may be expected in trees and 
shrubs under fair treatment, I give some measurements 
made in Buffalo Park of trees and shrubs, which were 
planted seven and eight years before : 

American Elm, 19 ft. high, 15 ft. broad. 

Silver Maple, 22 " " 14 " " 

Norway Maple, 17 " " 14 " " 

Sugar Maple, 16 " " 10 " " 

White Poplar, 30 " " 25 " " 

Balsam Poplar, 35 " " 15 " " 
Lombardy Poplar, 40 " " 

Norway Spruce, 16 " " 8 ft. broad. 

Black and White Pines, 12 to 15 " " 10 to 12 " " 

Strong-growing Shrubs, 5 " 12 " " 5 " 10 " " 

Dwarf-growing Snrubs, 2 " 4 " " 3 " 5 " " 

Let it be borne in mind, that these dimensions are for 
growths under what may be considered as ordinarily fair 



22 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

treatment, as regards manuring, culture, and the impor- 
tant point of summer watering. In small collections, 
instead of those containing many thousands, as in the 
case here referred to, better results might be expected. 
As an illustration, I also give measurements made on the 
banks of a lake, where the roots could take up an abund- 
ance of moisture, and where the soil naturally abounded 
in vegetable matter. It should be noticed, however, that 
the measurements which follow, mostly apply to a class of 
smaller growing trees than those named in the list above: 

Mulberry, 30 ft. high, 20 ft. broad. 

Willow, 30 to 35 " " 25 to 30 " 

Cut -Leaved Birch, 28 " " 15 " 

Bird Cherry, 23 " " 20 " 

Strong-growing Shrubs, 8 to 15 " " 8 to 12 " 

Dwarf -growing Shrubs, 3 " G " " 5 " 10 " 

Downing tells of a Silver maple, twelve years planted, 
that had a trunk one foot in diameter, and which made 
shoots six feet long in one season. Hoopes describes a 
Burr oak, twelve years from the acorn, that was seventeen 
feet high. We may occasionally meet trees and shrubs 
growing wild, that have made growths equal to any in- 
dicated by the figures here given. 

It is well to know that, as a rule, shrubby growths de- 
velop signs of mature beauty sooner than do trees. 
Planted in good soil, these take hold quickly, and in a 
few years show beauty in habit, foliage, and flowers, that 
is scarcely excelled in after years, though they may in- 
crease in size. On this and other accounts I usually rec- 
ommend a free use of the flowering and other shrubs in 
planting both large and small places. 

Planting is often delayed from year to year, until suffi- 
cient time has passed to have allowed the trees to make 
large growths, had they been set when first the idea was 
entertained. Almost any shrub or tree, with good treat- 
ment, may be counted on to reach a very pleasing size 
in from two to six years from planting. How soon such 
a period slips away ! 



PART II. 

MATERIALS OF ORNAMENTAL 
GARDENING. 

There are now estimated to be in the vegetable kingdom 
about one hundred and twenty thousand different species 
of plants. Oat of this vast number the arboriculturist 
and florist have selected a great many, which are classed 
as ornamental. 

In the following pages such description is given of the 
natural materials which may enter into the work of 
ornamental gardening, as may serve to convey an idea 
of their uses. 

CHAPTER IV. 
THE GROUND AND THE GRASS. 

The soil of the earth's surface has this paramount im- 
portance, that it is the home of the roots of all ordinary 
forms of vegetation. While there are many kinds of soil, 
such as sandy, clayey, loamy, and peaty, varying much in 
character, yet such is the adaptability of plants to soils, 
and so susceptible are these to improvement by the arts 
of culture, that some kinds of plants can always be found 
that will thrive readily in any properly improved soils. 
On the preparation of soils, see Part IV. 

Almost as common as the ground itself, are the grasses 
which clothe it, and which constitute a distinct and 
extensive botanical order. That they are very important 
in ornamental gardening, every one knows ; we could 
imagine nothing more desolate in appearance than the 
(23) 



24 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

barren aspect of our earth, were the carpet of the grasses 
lacking. The list of kinds used in lawn-making is not 
very large, these named below being the kinds found 
most desirable for this purpose, in our climate. 

Ehode Island Bent Grass (Agrostis vulgaris, var.), a 
grass of fine quality in some sections, when sown by 
itself. 

Creeping Bent Grass (Agrostis alba, var. stolonifera), 
thrives in partially shaded places ; excellent for small 
yards. 

Red Top Grass (Agrostis vulgaris), a valuable kind, 
doing well as a lawn grass in almost all soils. 

Green, or June Grass ( Poapratensis), also widely known 
as "Kentucky Blue Grass," is one of the best species, 
thriving well in dry, and also in somewhat shaded places. 

Perennial Rye-Grass (Lolium perenne), one of the best 
grasses south of Philadelphia, starting early in the spring, 
and of a good color. 

Yellow Oat Grass (Avenaflavescens) stands drouth well, 
but should be mixed with other kinds. 

Dog Tail Grass (Cynosarus cristatus), suited to dry 
hard soils and hills. 

Red Fescue Grass (Festuca ovina, var. rubra), adapted 
for gravelly banks ; coarse. 

Reed Canary Grass (Phalaris arundinacea) , a coarse 
grass, suitable for marshy and wet places. 

Tall Fescue Grass (Festuca elatior), suitable for moist, 
strong clay soils; in shady places and along the sea coast; 
coarse. 

Sweet Vernal Grass (Anthoxanthum odoratum). The 
newly mown grass of this species emits a pleasing fragrance, 
on which account it is considered desirable to add a small 
quantity of its seed to other kinds. 

White Clover (Trifolium repens) is sometimes mixed 
with the grasses, but is not recommended for rich soils or 
for lawns that are kept watered. 



WOODY GROWTHS — TEEES AND SHRUBS. 



25 



CHAPTER V. 

WOODY GROWTHS.— TEEES AND SHRUBS. 

In trees and shrubs we have some of the finest forms of 
natural beauty. These present a great variety of orna- 
mental qualities, in habit, foliage, and flowers, and possess 
wide adaptability for beautifying purposes. In nature, 




A, 60 feet and upwards ; B, 30 to 60 feet ; C, 15 to 30 feet ; D, tree 9 to 15 feet ; E, 
shrubs 9 to 15 feet ; F, tree 5 to 9 feet ; G, shrub 5 to 9 feet ; H, 1 to 5 feet. 

Fig. 1. — THE COMPARATIVE SIZES OF TREES AND SHRUBS. 



mountains, plains and valleys all support kinds peculiar 
to these localities and that are perfectly at home in them. 
Planters who know only the comparatively few kinds of 
trees and shrubs that are commonly seen in American 
yards and pleasure grounds, can hardly be aware what 
they miss, in not employing larger assortments of trees. 
2 



26 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

The lack which generally prevails in this respect is inex- 
cusable in the face of Nature's liberality in providing. 

Those who are interested in the study of trees and 
shrubs, with a view to making up lists for planting, find 
that the size to which these attain at maturity, is an im- 
portant consideration. Hence in the enumeration of the 
trees in these pages, care is taken to give the sizes to 
which the kinds attain. A classification as to size is 
introduced," the different and relative sizes being repre- 
sented by letters, as shown by figure 1, and the appended 
explanation. In the descriptions throughout the work, 
the letters given answer as keys which, by the help of the 
engraving, lead to a correct idea of individual and rela- 
tive sizes. 

Let it be understood that in all cases the sizes indi- 
cated are only approximately correct, as difference of soil 
and other circumstances have much to do in causing de- 
viations in the hight of the same species. 

The general plan of arrangement in the following 
chapter is, to begin with descriptions of large-growing 
kinds in each genus, and end with the smaller species. 
No alphabetical classification is here attempted, but for 
convenience the different kinds are thus arranged in the 
index. 

To save repetitions of botanical terms (which are 
usually in parenthesis), the generic name which appears 
in the head line, is represented by its initials through- 
out the descriptions of the species of each genus. When 
there is more than one variety of any species, the abbre- 
viation var. (thus, var. regalis), precedes the variety name 
of all that follow the one first given. 



DECIDUOUS TEEES AND SHRUBS. 27 

CHAPTEE VI. 

DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRUBS. 

The term deciduous is applied to those trees and shrubs, 
the leaves of which fall in autumn, and is used in contra- 
distinction to evergreen, or persistent. 

* the elm. Ulmus. A. G. 

The Elms in their different species afford much diver- 
sity, and as they grow readily in almost any soil and situa- 
tion, they almost without exception give great satisfac- 
tion to planters. 

The American" White or Weeping Elm {Ulmus 
Americana). — A well-known tree with spreading, curv- 
ing, pendant branches, and of stately, picturesque appear- 
ance. Where space admits, it is one of the best street 
trees, because of its inclination to form a long trunk, A. 

The English Elm ( U. campestris), with its numerous 
varieties, forms a valuable section. The normal form is 
tall and irregular in shape, its branches leaving the trunk 
almost horizontally. Leaves smaller and more regularly 
cut than those of the American, A. Berard's English 
Elm (var. Berardi) is a miniature tree, slender and pyra- 
midal in habit, with distinctly cut leaves, B. Clem- 
mer's English Elm (var. Clemmeri) differs but little from 
the type ; of rapid growth, A. Webb's Curled-leaved. 
English Elm (var. crispa) is dwarfish, with curled leaves; 
distinct, B. 

Some of the varieties of the English Elm incline to a 
pendulous habit, such as the Weeping Small-leaved Eng- 
lish Elm (var. microphylla pendula), a charming tree for 
small lawns, if grafted at six or eight feet high, G. 
The common Cork-barked English Elm (var. suberosa) 
is a desirable tree. Weeping Cork-barked English Elm 



28 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

(var. suberosa pendula), a picturesque grower, B. The 
Twiggy English Elm (var. viminalis), with small leaves 
and slender branches, is distinct and beautiful, 0. 

Some of this section have characteristic foliage, which 
renders them valuable, such as the Variegated-leaved 
English Elm (var. variegata argentea), with the leaves dis- 
tinctly mottled with silvery white, B. Golden-leaved 
English Elm (var. aurea) has its leaves blotched with yel- 
low. Purple-leaved English Elm (vat. purpurea), a hand- 
some tree, with the leaves purple-tinged early in the sea- 
son ; compact and upright in habit, A. Nettle-leaved 
English Elm (var. utricmfolia) has large serrated leaves, 
of peculiar appearance ; fine habit, A. Curled-leaved- 
English Elm (var. cucullata), with curled, hood-like 
leaves, sharply notched, B. Plume-like English Elm 
(var. plumosa), another curled-leaved variety, the branches 
and foliage of which have a plume-like appearance. 

There are also belonging to the English Elms, a beauti- 
ful compact-growing variety, with dark foliage, called the 
Serrate-leaved English Elm (var. serratifolia), B ; the 
Belgian Elm (var. Belgica), of rapid, spreading growth, 
much planted in European streets, A; Cornish Elm (var. 
Cornubiensis), of vigorous upright growth, A ; and the 
Monumental Elm (var. monumentalis), of distinct colum- 
nar form, dense and slow-growing, C, besides some others 
that are less distinct. 

The Scotch, or Wych Elm ( U. montana), and varieties 
possess great value for ornamental planting, usually hav- 
ing large leaves, broad forms and heavy verdure, and some 
are pendant in habit. The type is a fine spreading 
grower, B. The Weeping Camperdown Elm (var. Camper- 
clowni) is of unsurpassed excellence, and when grafted 
eight feet high, forms, with its long, dark-green leaves 
and masses of luxuriant, hanging branches, a striking and 
picturesque object ; with slight training the tree forms 
almost a perfect arbor, C. Of others, the common Weep- 



DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRUBS. 29 

ing Scotch Elm (var. pendula) resembles the Camper- 
down, but is rather less valuable; it has peculiar freaks 
of growth, the branches sometimes leaving the tree 
obliquely, then again in a horizontal or perpendicular 
direction, B. The Eough-leaved Weeping Scotch Elm 
(var. pendula rugosa) is a valuable tree, with large, rough 
leaves, B. The Crisp-leaved Weeping Scotch Elm (var. 
crisp>a), has crisped leaves. Huntingdon's Elm (var. 
Hunting doni), and Blandford's, or Superb Elm (var. 
superba) are Scotch Elms of value, the former very erect, 
A; the latter, a majestic tree, with smooth, grayish bark, 
the foliage attractive in color, and forming a fine specimen 
soon after planting, A. The Broad-leaved Elm (var. lati- 
folia), a handsome grower, B, and Dampier's Pyramidal 
Elm (var. pyramidalis Dampieri), an elegant pyramidal 
grower, B, are desirable varieties. The White-margined 
Scotch Elm (var. alba marginata) is a delicate-growing 
variety, said to be superb if grown in partial shade. The 
Ash-colored Elm ( U. montana, var. cinerea), with fine, 
rich-looking foliage, A, and Dove's Elm ( U. Dovcei), of 
pyramidal shape, and vigorous, being valuable for street- 
planting, are worthy of mention as ornamental species. 

The native Red, or Slippery Elm ( U. fulva) is a fine 
tree for large lawns or street planting, but the growth is 
somewhat straggling, B. There is also a weeping form 
of the last named (var. pendula), which is well spoken of. 

the oak. Quercus. A. G. 

An Oak that has had ample time and space for develop- 
ment, is almost the perfect type of all that is grand and 
expressive in a tree. The species are very numerous, vary- 
ing much in habit, size, and general appearance, and de- 
serve more attention in ornamental planting than they 
have yet received. While some grow slowly, others are 
scarcely excelled in their freedom of growth. The first 
ten described below are natives of the United States. 



30 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

Scarlet Oak (Q. coccinea), a rapid grower of pyramidal 
form, with beautiful, light-green, deeply-cut leaves, which 
turn to an intense scarlet in autumn, A. 

White Oak (Q. alba). This typical oak is large, broad, 
and majestic; leaves with rounded lobes, pale-green above 
and glaucous beneath, A. 

Swamp White Oak (Q. bicolor); handsome and tall; 
its large, sinuate-toothed leaves turning scarlet in au- 
tumn, A. 

Burr or Mossy Cup Oak (Q. macrocarpd), of spreading 
growth, with very large, deeply-lobed leaves, which show 
some variation in size and form; acorns large, cup mossed. 

Southern Over-Cup Oak (Q. lyrata), a Southern tree, 
hardy in the North; with large, obovate-oblong leaves, 
crowded together. 

Shingle Oak (Q. imbricaria). Laurel-like, lanceolate- 
oblong leaves, turning to rich carmine in the autumn, B. 

Bed Oak (Q. rubra), a handsome, rapid-growing tree, 
fine as a single specimen ; leaves large, sinuately-cut, 
assuming a deep red in the fall, A. 

Pin Oak (Q. palustris), a rapid-growing, pyramidal 
tree, valuable for streets; branches slightly drooping, with 
bright, glossy foliage that is very ornamental. 

Chestnut Oak (Q. Prinus). Leaves serrated, resem- 
bling those of the chestnut, a most beautiful species; will 
grow in very poor soil, A. Cut-leaved Chestnut Oak (var. 
lacinata) is a variety of the preceding, with cut leaves. 

Willow Oak (Q. Pliellos), remarkable for its narrow, 
willow-like leaves and slender shoots; distinct, B. 

English Oaks. — These are distinct, and embrace some 
very valuable sorts. The common English Eoyal Oak (Q. 
Robur) is a grandly beautiful tree of rather slow growth, 
leaves of an uniform color on both sides, A. The fol- 
lowing are some of its leading varieties: Louett's Oak 



DECIDUOUS TKEES AND SHRUBS. 31 

(var. Louetti), differing from the type in having larger 
leaves rather more lanceolate in form, A ; Purple-leaved 
Oak (var. atropurpurea), a beautiful tree but a slow- 
grower, with dark purple leaves that hold color all sum- 
mer, very effective, B; Dark-leaved Oak (var. nigricans), 
said to be darker than the purple-leaved variety, B; 
Golden-leaved Oak (var. concordia), a most effective 
variety, the leaves with a rich, yellow tinge, and pre- 
senting a peculiar waxy appearance, O ; Silver-leaved 
Oak (var. argentea variegata), leaves somewhat mottled 
with white at their edges, B. There are some sorts that 
have striking leaf -forms, namely: Contorted-leaved Oak 
(var. contorta), with peculiar twisted leaves, B; Curled 
Pyramidal Oak (var. cucullata), the leaves of which are 
curled on their edges; Out-leaved Oak (var. laciniata), 
one of the best cut-leaved trees known, leaves nearly di- 
vided to the mid-rib, tree of elegant habit, B ; Large- 
leaved Oak (var. macrophylla); var. latifolia cucullata, 
singular looking, with broad leaves slightly turned down 
at the edges. The Weeping Oak (var. pendula), with 
long, slender, willow-like branches, and the Pyramidal 
Oak (var. fastigiata), a remarkable tree, growing some- 
what like the Upright Poplars, but more slender,!?, all 
belong to the English or Eoyal Oak, and are desirable in 
ornamental planting. 

Of other foreign kinds the Turkey Oak ( Q. Cerris) is 
very desirable; of rapid growth, with tall symmetrical 
head; finely lobed, bright, shining leaves, which, after 
turning brown in the autumn, remain far into the winter 
on the tree, A. 

Mongolian Oak (Q. Mongolica), a rare tree with long, 
deeply notched, green-glaucous leaves. 

There are several desirable Japanese species, among 
them. : Q. Daimio, with broad, glossy, dark-green 
leaves, of leathery texture, covered with brownish down 



32 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

when young; Q. denlata, with deeply-toothed leaves that 
give the tree a pleasing appearance. 

THE HORSE-CHESTNUT AND BUCKEYE, (JSsCUlus). A-E. 

The Horse-Chestnut, including the American Buck- 
eyes, are much esteemed as ornamental trees the world 
over, for their regular forms, heavy, deep-green foliage 
and their flowers, which latter give the tree a magnificent 
appearance for weeks in the spring. 

The Common or European Horse-Chestnut (jE. 
Hippocastanum) is hardly excelled as a lawn or street 
tree; in time losing largely the sameness of form, which 
is conspicuous, and to some objectionable in the young 
trees, and taking on sufficient irregularity to produce a 
charming effect of light and shade. In old trees, some 
branches will almost droop to the ground. A slight ob- 
jection to the tree is the litter it produces by dropping 
its buds and nuts in the fall, A. There are several fine 
varieties, namely: the Double White (var. fiore pleno); 
the Double Eed (var. rubra flore pleno), which possess 
the advantage of not producing fruit, hence litter on 
this account is avoided. The flowers of these are very 
attractive, and the form of growth may easily be kept 
shrub -like, B. Memminger's Horse- Chestnut (var. Mem- 
mingeri) is a variety, the leaves of which are sometimes 
slightly sprinkled with white, making the tree interest- 
ing, A. The Cut-leaved Horse-Chestnut (var. laciniata), 
has handsome leaves deeply and delicately cut, B. Van 
Houtte's Dwarf Horse-Chestnut (var. nana Van Houttei) 
is dwarfish, and very desirable for small places. 

The Ked-Flowering Horse-Chestnut {JE. rubi- 
cunda) is now regarded as a distinct species; it is of 
slow growth, with dark-green leaves, and producing bril- 
liant red flowers in showy racemes, B. There is a Golden 
variegated variety (var. foliis aureis), and a Dwarf Red- 



DECIDUOUS TEEES AND SHRUBS. 33 

flowering variety (var. nana), both of which are desir- 
able, a 

The Chinese Horse-Chestnut {2E. Chinensis), of 
comparatively recent introduction, is a rapid grower with 
large leaves. 

The Buckeyes, sometimes called the Smooth-fruited 
Horse-Chestnuts, were formerly placed in a separate ge- 




Fig. 2. — DWARF HORSE-CHESTNUT. 

nus, Pavia. Botanists now group them as a section 
(Pavia), of JEsculus. 

The Ohio Buckeye (JS. glabra) has large, smooth 
leaves, and panicles of small, pale yellow flowers in early 
spring, B. 

The Yellow Buckeye (JE. flava) is a beautiful low 
tree or shrub, with pale green, downy leaves and bright 
yellow flowers, C. 

The Bed Buckeye (JEJ. Pavia) is a native of Vir- 
ginia and southward, forming a small-sized tree, with 
brownish red flowers, G. From this has sprung a num- 
ber of small Buckeyes, such as the Dark Eed Buckeye 
(var. atrosanguinea), with dark flowers and smooth 
leaves; the Flesh-colored Buckeye (var. carnea puiescens), 



34 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

the Purple Buckeye (var. purpurea), with flowers of the 
colors indicated by the names: Whitley's Buckeye (var. 
Whitleyi), a fine variety, with brilliant flowers and hand- 
some foliage. 

Among other Buckeyes, there is one known as JE. 
carnea stiperba, which is very distinct, with showy dark 
crimson flowers; and two very dwarf kinds, namely the 
Long Eacemed or Small Buckeye (JE. parviflora), 
figure 2, a valuable species of low spreading habit and at- 
tractive white flowers. The Dwarf-pendulous Buckeye 
(jE. pumila pendula) has drooping branches. These 
dwarf Buckeyes (C-D), are well adapted to small grounds. 

the chestnut. Castanea, A-O. 

The American Chestnut (0. vesca, \ ax. Americana) 
is a beautiful, neat tree, with long-pointed leaves, that 
have scalloped edges; produces sweet fruit, A. 

The Sweet or Spanish Chestnut (C. vesca) is a fine 
lawn tree, yielding a superior quality of fruit; a little 
tender north of Washington, B. There is a variety with 
slightly white margined leaves, known as var. argent ea 
variegata, but the growth is not very satisfactory, C. 

The Dwarf Chestnut or Chinquapin (0. pumila), 
a native of Ohio and southward; is a neat grower, form- 
ing a globular head, with lance-oblong leaves, which are 
whitish underneath, 0. 

A recent introduction is the Japan Chestnut (C. 
Japonica), which promises well for hardiness, beauty, 
and fruit-bearing qualities. 

While preferring light soils, the Chestnuts also do well 
in clayey loams. 

the poplar. Populus. A-B. 
No other trees will, as a rule, attain to effective pro- 
portions sooner than the Poplars, and on this account 
they possess special value in ornamental gardening for 



DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRUBS. 35 

creating effects quickly. Most of them are valuable as 
single specimens on the lawn. They are objected to by 
some, because sprouts come up from the roots. These 
are not difficult to keep down. The Poplars are desir- 
able for back-grounds, shade for stock-yards, and to plant 
in out-of-the-way places. 

The White or Silver Poplar or Abele (P. alba) is 
a fine tree with heart-shaped, dark-green, smooth leaves, 
silvery white beneath, A. The Gray Poplar resembles the 
preceding somewhat, but is more upright, and with leaves 
not so green above, or so white beneath. 

Alba Nivea is a variety with larger leaves than the 
type, but resembling it in other respects. All of these, 
while valuable trees for ornament, are disposed to sprout 
from the root. 

The Lombakdy Poplar (P. dilatata) is the well-known 
erect, spire-like species, growing rapidly, and possessing 
peculiar value on account of its manner of growth, A. 

The Necklace Poplar, or Cotton-wood (P. monilife- 
ra), is a vigorous tree, with the young branches angled; it 
has large leaves, and its catkins resemble a string of beads. 

The Carolina Poplar is a vigorous ornamental shade 
tree, A. A variety of this, named " Eugenie," is of 
pyramidal habit and rapid growth, with handsome, yel- 
lowish-green foliage. 

The Balsam Poplar (P. lalsamifera) is a coarse, rank 
grower of erect habit, with large, shiny leaves; it sprouts, 
B. There are several handsome Weeping Poplars : 
namely, the Weeping, Large American Aspen (P. grandi- 
dentata pendula), a beautiful and very rapid grower, with 
slender branches that droop gracefully to the ground; 
valuable, B. Athenian Weeping Poplar (P. Grceca 'pen- 
dula), a fine, weeping tree, with dark-colored catkins ; 
and the Parasol de St. Julien, anew drooping variety from 
France. The American Aspen (P. tremuloides) is a spe- 



36 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

cies with long, slender leaf-stalks, which oause the leaves 
to quiver in the slightest breeze. 

the tulip tree. Liriodendron. A. 

The Tulip Tree (L. Tulipifera) is a beautiful tree 
wherever it grows and flowers well. The trunk is 
straight, covered with grayish-brown bark ; leaves round- 
ish, ovate, with two lobes near the base, and two at the 
apex, which appears as if cut off, of a charming light-green 
tint, and smooth. The flowers resemble single tulips. 
It requires a deep, loamy soil, and must be transplanted 
while young. The Gold-margined-leaved Tulip Tree is 
a recent introduction, with most beautifully margined 
leaves. May prove tender in the North. 

THE HICKORIES AND OTHER NUT-BEARING TREES. A. B. 

The Common Hickory, or Shell Bark (Carya alba), 
is an ornamental tree of noble dimensions and a spread- 
ing habit, with the branches starting low down; excellent 
where the space admits. Handsome compound leaves of 
a rich, glossy green — darker than those of most other trees 
— and frequently measure twelve to fifteen inches long 
on vigorous specimens. 

The Black Walnut (Juglans nigra) is one of the 
grandest and most massive of trees, and well suited for 
embellishing large grounds. The bark is very dark in 
color, and deeply furrowed ; leaves compound, with thir- 
teen to seventeen leaflets, and exceedingly handsome, A. 

The Butternut (,/. cinerea) is another fine ornament- 
al tree, somewhat resembling the last, but rarely as hand- 
some, B. 

The European Walnut, or Madeira Nut {J. rcgia), 
forms a fine, well-balanced tree, thickly clad with warm, 
russet-lined foliage, A. There is also a Cut-leaved variety 
(var. lacinata) and a Dwarf variety (var. praepart uriens) 
of this. 



DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRUBS. 37 

the plane, or buttonwood. Platanus. A. 
In Paris and other large European cities, our native 
American Plane, or Buttonwood (P. occidentalis), 
is esteemed above all other trees for street planting, but, 
strange as it may seem, in this, its native country, it 
suffers badly in most places from a fungus which destroys 
the young growth. 

The Oriental Plane (P. orientalis) is less liable to 
the same trouble, though not free from it. As they are 
of great value, they are nevertheless worthy of trial by 
planters. 

the maple. Acer and Negundo. A-F. 

The Maples, in their many species and varieties, possess 
a value as ornamental trees of the very highest order. 
The trees are of free, in some kinds of rapid growth, and 
healthy ; they are adapted to all soils, and are seldom 
troubled by insects. Their foliage is handsome, appears 
early, and goes out in the fall, in various gorgeous tints. 
Some maples have richly-colored leaves all through the 
season, and the leaves of others are of singular shape, 
while a few bear attractive blossoms. 

The Sugar Maple {A. saccharinum) is a well-known 
native species, admirable in form, foliage, and habit. It 
is one of the best for street and lawn-planting, A. The 
Black Sugar Maple (var. nigrum), a variety of the last, 
has darker leaves, with their lobes more rounded, A. 

The Red, or Swamp Maple (A. rubrum), also a native, 
is noted in early spring for its showy, red blossoms, and 
in autumn for the extreme brilliancy of its foliage, B. 
There is a fine dwarf form of this, called the Dwarf 
Scarlet Maple (var. fulgens of some, and var. tomentosum 
of other authors. ) 

The Norway Maple (A. platanoides) is a tree of spread- 
ing, rounded form, broad, shining leaves, producing dense 



38 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

shade, and of free growth ; is worthy a place in every 
roomy garden,^. The Curled-leaf Maple (\ar.cucullatum) 
is a variety of the Norway, with leaves more or less curled, 
giving the tree a curious appearance. There are, at least, 
three cut-leaved varieties of this species, all valuable; 
the Cut-leaved Norway Maple (var. dissectum), has its 
leaves so deeply cut as to almost divide them into three 
parts; the Eagle-claw Maple (var. laciniatum), with 
leaves deeply cut, pointed and curled ; and the Lorberg's, 
Norway Maple (var. Lorbergii), which has very deeply cut 
leaves, of a bright, reddish hue when young ; Schwerdler's 
Norway Maple (var. Schir erdlerii) is a promising new vari- 
ety, with leaves that are richly variegated in the spring 
with purple and crimson. 

The Silver-leaved Maple (A. dasycarpum), gives a 
number of valuable varieties, mostly of open, slender 
growth. The tree is a rapid grower, the foliage bright- 
green above and silvery white beneath. New Cut-leaved 
Silver Maple (var. heterophyllum laciniatum), very distinct 
and fine; somewhat inclined to "sport," 0. Wagner's Cut- 
leaved Silver Maple (var. Wagner i), of great value ; droop- 
ing gracefully, and with deeply dissected leaves. The 
Crisp-leaved Silver Maple (var. crispum novum), with 
leaves that are deeply-cut as well as curled, rendering the 
tree singularly attractive. 

The European Sycamore Maple {A. Pseudo-Plat a- 
nus) is a handsome, strong-growing tree, with large leaves, 
which have long, reddish leaf stalks. Valuable for the 
sea-shore and exposed places, as it will grow erect where 
the winds would cause other trees to lean, A. Douglas's 
Sycamore Maple (var. Douglasi) has smaller and more 
pointed leaves than the type. There are two beautiful 
varieties, with peculiar leaf coloration, that render them 
valuable for creating contrasts of foliage in plantations. 
The Golden-leaved Sycamore Maple (var. aureo-variegata), 
a handsome ornamental tree, with the leaves distinctly 



DECIDUOUS TREES AtfD SHRUBS. 39 

and permanently marked with yellow, B, and the Purple- 
leaved Sycamore Maple (var. purpurea), with greenish- 
purple foliage, the under side of which is singularly hand- 
some. The Velvety Maple (var. velutinum) is a rapid- 
growing form, with large, dark-green, five-lobed leaves. 

In recent years the Maples, with richly-colored leaves 
introduced from Japan, have attracted much attention. 
At first the indications seemed to be against their hardi- 
ness, but as the trees attain more age, and as the stock is 
propagated in this country, they appear to be more hardy, 
and they will undoubtedly prove valuable under careful 
culture. Thus far, the wonderfully rich colors of the 
leaves have faded in summer, but even this defect prom- 
ises to be remedied as the trees grow older. The species 
itself, Acer polymorphum, is very showy and of compara- 
tively free growth; it is the parent of many varieties, of 
which the following five are perhaps the best of the many 
Japanese Maples thus far introduced : — The Blood-red- 
leaved Japanese Maple (var. sanguineum), with purple 
or rich red leaves ; the Dark Purple-leaved Japanese 
Maple (var. atropurpureum), of deep-claret tint ; leaves 
very deeply cut ; Various-colored Japanese Maple (var. 
versicolor), of free growth, as compared with others, and 
picturesquely spotted with white, pink, and green ; Cut- 
leaved Purple Japanese Maple (var. dissectum), beauti- 
ful rose-colored leaves and branches in the new growth, 
changing to deep purple later; leaves delicately-cut, giv- 
ing them a fern-like appearance ; of dwarf, weeping and 
graceful form ; Netted-leaved Japanese Maple (var. reti- 
culatum), deeply-lobed, greenish-whitish leaves, traversed 
by a network of light, yellowish veins. There is also a 
variety with whitish leaves. There are two other distinct 
Japanese Maples worthy of mention : 

The Eed Colchicum Maple {A. Colchicum ruirum), 
of bright, crimson color in the young leaves and wood; 
rather tender; and the 



40 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

Palmate-leaved Maple (A. palniatum), with small 
leaves, having reddish leaf-stalks and veins, the tree in 
time assuming a weeping form. 

The English, or Cork-barked Maple (A. campestre), 
is a remarkably handsome, slow-growing tree of com- 
pact habit, with very dark-green leaves; sometimes grown 
in a shrub-like form. 

The Large-leaved Maple {A. macrophyllum) is a 
stately tree with immense leaves, but rather tender in 
the North while young. 

Striped Maple {A. Pennsylvanicum) is an elegant 
tree with light-green foliage and distinctly striped bark. 

Tartarian Maple {A. Tartaricum) is of irregular 
habit, but making a handsome tree, with small, light- 
green leaves and light-colored, smooth bark. 

The Ash-leaved Maple belongs in a distinct genus 
{Negundo), but closely related to the common Maple. 
Ash-leaved Maple, or Box-Elder {Negundo aceroides), 
is of rapid growth, with small, light-green foliage, resem- 
bling that of the Ash, and Maple-like fruit. The bark 
on the young wood is greenish-yellow, 0. Curled Ash- 
leaved Maple (var. crispum), has the foliage curled and 
somewhat cut. Variegated Ash-leaved Maple (xar./oliis 
argenteis variegatis), a variety distinctly marked with 
white, more so, perhaps, than any other white-leaved tree 
in cultivation. Extensively used in French gardens, but 
liable to be sun-burned here, F. 

the beech. Fagus. A. C. 

The Beeches are highly esteemed, picturesque trees, 
with rich, glossy leaves and smooth bark which, in some, 
is of a very light color. The light and shade of the ver- 
dure is usually disposed horizontally, giving to the trees 
a distinct appearance. They prefer light, loamy soils; 
the roots keep near the surface, on which account grass 



DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRUBS. 41 

does not thrive well under them, unless it is kept well 
watered. All the Beeches can be kept closely pruned, to 
adapt them to small grounds, or for use as hedges. 

The American Beech (F. ferruginea) is an elegant 
tree of fine form, with rich leaves, and smooth, light- 
colored hark, B. 

The European Beech (F. sylvaiica) is very ornament- 
al, with spreading branches, which in time often droop 
gracefully almost to the ground; leaves thin, ovate, and 
obscurely toothed, A. Among the fine varieties that 
have sprung from the European Beech, those with purple 
leaves stand very high, as being the most attractive 
trees with purple foliage in cultivation. 

The Common Purple-leaved Beech (var. purpurea) 
has dark, reddish-purple foliage in the spring, changing to 
crimson and then to purplish-green during the season, B. 
Bivers' Purple-leaved Beech (var. purpurea Riversii) is 
darker and more effective than the common purple-leaved 
variety, B. Large-leaved Purple Beech (var. purpurea 
major) is a variety with large, shining, dark-purple leaves, 
which are exceedingly rich and effective, C. The Copper- 
colored Beech (var. cuprea) resembles the Common Purple 
Beech somewhat, but has lighter-colored leaves, with 
darker-colored young shoots. Another variegated Beech, 
widely different in the color of its leaves from these de- 
scribed, and one that contrasts markedly with them, is 
the Golden Variegated Beech (var. aurea variegata), with 
leaves deeply margined with yellow, rendering the tree 
very distinct and handsome. Among other valuable sorts 
belonging to the European, are the Weeping Beech (var. 
pendula), a most picturesque tree, with long, tortuous 
branches, upon which the foliage is apparently piled in 
masses; the tree often seems to be deformed when young, 
but in time becomes very ornamental, B; the Broad- 
leaved Beech (var. macropliylla), of vigorous habit, with 



42 



ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 



large, handsome foliage, C; the Cut-leaved Beech (var. 
lacinata), of medium size, compact, pyramidal form, and 
possessing great elegance, B; the Fern-leaved Beech (var. 
aspleniifolia) , somewhat resembling the last, but more 
rounded in form, and with fern-like leaves, delicately cut, 




Fig. 3. — CATALPA BIGNONIOIDES. 

B; the Crested-leaved Beech (var. cristata), a curious 
variety, with small, curled leaves, not remarkable for 
beauty. 

the catalpa. Catalpa. A-E. 

Trees at maturity of different sizes, conspicuous on 
account of their large leaves of a soft hue, with showy 



DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRUBS. 43 

flowers, which are followed by long seed pods which often 
hang until spring ; noted for the rapid growth of the 
large native kinds. 

The Common Catalpa, or Indian Bean (C. Ugnoni- 
oides, sometimes called C. syringmfolia), is a native of 
the Southern States, but does well in some parts of the 
North if protected when young; leaves large, showy, 
heart-shaped, presenting a peculiar, tropical appearance; 
flowers white, tinged with purple and yellow, A. The 
Golden Catalpa (var. aurea) somewhat resembles the 
common species, but with the young leaves tinged with 
gold for a time. There is a Dwarf American Catalpa 
(var. nana), resembling most of the others, but of a bushy 
growth, and attractive, E. 

The Hardy Catalpa (C. speciosa), while less remark- 
able in appearance than the common, is hardier, and 
flowers earlier, A. 

Other dwarf kinds have been introduced from Asia, 
which are valuable. One of these is 0. Kcempferi, and 
another O. Bungei, but confusion prevails at present as 
to their identity. 

THE LARCH. LariX. A. 

The Larches are cone-bearing trees, without being 
"evergreens," like the Spruces, Pines, and most other 
conifers. They mainly have a peculiar grace and beauty, 
with delicate, soft foliage, that contrasts well with that 
of most other trees and shrubs. They are valuable for 
adding to the effect and variety of grounds, and are 
adapted to all soils, but should be planted very early in 
the spring, or in the fall. 

The European Larch (L. Europma) is of erect form, 
tapering very delicately ; is the kind most commonly 
planted, A. There are several desirable variations : the 
Glaucous European Larch (var. glaucd), of fine appear- 
ance ; and the Weeping European Larch (var. pendula), 



44 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

the brandies of which assume most grotesque forms, and 
being clothed with fine glaucous foliage, the tree has a 
very picturesque appearance. 

The American Larch, Tamarack and Hackmatack 
(L. Americana), is a tall, pyramidal tree, with a very 
slender trunk ; less desirable than the European species. 

The Japan Larch (L. leptolepis) is a slender-grow- 
ing kind, with reddish -brown shoots, and leaves that 
turn to a rich yellow in the autumn. 

the ash. Fraxinus. A-D. 

While some of the Ashes do not rank high as orna- 
mental trees, there are a number of most excellent species 
and varieties which are entitled to be classed among the 
finest trees in cultivation. 

The American White Ash (F. Americana) is a fair 
shade tree, thriving in almost any location, with broad, 
round head, straight, clean trunk and compound pinnate 
leaves, A. Bosc's Ash (var. Boscii) is a fine and dis- 
tinct American variety with dark, glossy foliage, B. 
There are some valuable variegated sorts, among which 
are the Gold Spotted-leaved Ash (var. punctata), the 
leaves of which are strongly marked, and blotched with 
golden yellow, giving the tree a very effective appearance 
— in this respect exceeding all other trees with golden- 
hued foliage. The Aucuba-leaved Ash (var. aucubcefolia), 
with distinct splashes and spots of yellow on the leaves, 
remaining through the season, C. The Walnut-leaved 
Ash (var. juglandifolia) strongly resembles the walnut 
in the form of leaves ; valuable only in large collections, 
B. The Cloth-like-leaved Ash (var. pannosa), a native 
of the Carolinas, has beautiful foliage, somewhat re- 
sembling that of Bosc's Ash but larger, B. Eufous- 
haired Ash (var. riifa) is a distinct and ornamental 
variety, of upright habit and dark green leaves, B. The 



DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRUBS. 45 

Showy Ash (var. spectaUUs) has large, glossy, leathery 
leaves, of dark green color. 

The European" Ash (F. excelsior) is a spreading tree, 
with a handsome head, a short thick trunk and beautiful 
pinnate leaves, B. There are two pendulous varieties, 
the Weeping European Ash (var. pendula), a valuable, 
rapid grower, that may serve as an arbor on the lawn, 0; 
and the Golden-barked Weeping Ash (var. aurea pendula), 
an elegant but quite tender tree, with bark as yellow as 
gold, C. The common Golden-barked Ash (var. aurea) 
is also a conspicuous tree on account of its yellow bark, 
twisted branches and fine foliage, and it is hardier than 
the last named, C. The varieties with peculiar leaf 
forms are interesting : Dwarf Crisp-leaved Ash (var. 
atrovirens), with dark green, curled foliage, arranged 
closely along the stem, I). Hooded-leaved Ash (var. 
cucullata), with singularly curled and twisted leaves, of 
pyramidal growth, C. Dwarf Globe-headed Ash (var. 
globosa), a pretty round-headed tree when worked six or 
eight feet high, with small myrtle-like leaves, D. 
Willow-like-leaved Ash (var. salicifolia), with narrow 
willow-like leaflets of pleasing habit, D. Another variety 
called scolopendrifolia has leaflets as narrow as grass 
blades, and which droop curiously, D. The Single- 
leaved Ash (var. monophylla) is a fine tree, with broad 
leaves, B. There is a beautiful variety of the Single- 
leaved (var. monophylla laciniata) in which the margins of 
the leaves are finely cut. The Variegated-leaved Ash (var. 
concavmfolia variegata) is said to be striking on account 
of its silvery white young leaves, tinged with pink, chang- 
ing later to light green. 

The Flowering Ash (F. Ornus) is a small tree which 
produces a profusion of pale or greenish- white flowers in 
clusters on the terminal branches in spring, on which 
account it is valuable for ornament, G. There are sev- 



46 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

eral Japanese Ashes offered, but which it is feared are 
too tender to become generally useful. 

THE LINDEN, BASSWOOD, OR LIME. TiUa. A-B. 

Generally graceful, handsome trees of good size, with 
heart-shaped, serrate leaves, and producing heavy shade. 
The flowers, which are inconspicuous, are in some species 
much sought by the honey bee. 

The American Linden or Basswood (T. Americana) 
is a native of rapid growth, with very large leaves and 
fragrant flowers, A. The Broad-leaved Basswood (var. 
macrophylla) is less common, and has yet larger leaves 
than the last. Both are desirable in large grounds. The 
European Linden and its varieties are quite distinct in 
appearance. 

The common European Linden (T. Europea) is 
well shaped, inclined to be pyramidal in form, thriving 
in almost any soil, and well adapted for lawns and 
avenues ; leaves are smaller and darker than those of the 
American Linden, A. European White-leaved Linden 
(var. alba) is a handsome, dense-growing variety, the 
leaves of which are downy beneath and smooth above, 
giving the tree a striking appearance, and constrasting 
strongly with other kinds. There is also the White- 
leaved Weeping Linden (var. alba-pendula), a valuable 
tree with large leaves and slender branches that incline 
to droop, B. The Cut or Fern- leaved Linden (var. 
laciniata) is a tree of good habit with rather small leaves 
that are deeply cut and twisted, B. Another cut-leaved 
variety is the Eed Cut-leaved Linden (var. laciniata rubra), 
the young shoots of which are of a bright rose color. 
The Broad-leaved Linden (var. platypliylla), with mas- 
sive leaves ; the Small-leaved Linden (var. microplnjlla) 
with leaves quite the reverse of the last as to size ; and 
the Grape-leaved Linden (var. vitifolia), with deeply- 



DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRUBS. 47 

lobed leaves, are all valuable. Among the European 
Lindens are some with attractive bark as follows : 
Pyramidal Linden (var. pyramidalis), and Eed-twigged 
Linden (var. rubra), with young branches of reddish 
color ; and the Yellow-twigged Linden (var. sulphured), 
the Golden Broad-leaved Linden (var. platypliylla aurea), 
and the Hairy-styled Linden (var. dasystyla), with 
golden-hued bark, showy in winter. 

The Japan Linden (T. cordata) is yet rare, it is of 
medium size, and has heart-shaped leaves. 

the willow. Salix. A. D. 

The Willow is a very large genus, having among its 
species many fine ornamental trees. Most of them are 
easily transplanted, thrive in any soil, and are of rapid 
growth. 

The Babylonian or Weeping Willow (S. Baby- 
lonica) is a very common species, a graceful tree of large 
size, its fresh, bright green, wavy foliage making it at- 
tractive, particularly in conjunction with water scenery, 
A. A variety of this from France (var. Salamonii) is 
more upright in habit, while retaining the weeping 
style of growth. 

The Golden Willow (S. alba var. vitellina) is a dis- 
tinct variety of the White Willow, with yellow bark, very 
attractive both in summer and winter, B. 

The Goat Willow (S. Caprea), and some of its varie- 
ties are valuable ; the common kind being a medium- 
sized tree of spreading form with broad leaves, C. The 
excellent, and well-known Kilmarnock Weeping Willow 
is a variety of the last (var. pendula), when grafted low 
this forms a fountain-like tree of great beauty, with the 
branches reaching to the ground ; when grafted six or 
eight feet high, it forms an exceedingly graceful tree of 
umbrella shape ; its foliage is glossy ; habit vigorous, 



48 OKNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

thriving in any soil ; excellent for small grounds, D. 
Three-Colored Goat Willow (var. tricolor), has blotched 
foliage of three distinct colors, it is usually grafted from 
five to seven feet high, when it forms a handsome, small, 
round-headed tree, D. 

The American Weeping or Fountain Willow 
(S. purpurea-pendula) , a variety of an European species, 
is a small, slender-growing willow of European origin, 
which forms a remarkably handsome weeping tree when 
grafted on a large stem, D. 

The Rosemary-leaved Willow (S. rosmarinifolia), 
with small, silvery leaves so arranged on the branches as 
to give them a feathery appearance, D. 

The Royal Willow (S. regalis), is an elegant tree with 
silvery leaves, which are larger than those of the last 
named, both are of great value for contrasting with 
other trees, on account of their whitish appearance and 
handsome growth, D. 

The Laurel-leaved Willow (S. laurifolia), and the 
Shiny-leaved Willow (S. lucida), are both rapid growing 
trees, usually kept in a bush form, both have dark, glossy 
leaves ; those of the former species being the largest, C. 

Other Willows worthy of note, are the Silky Weeping 
Willow (S. sericea pendula), with small leaves and long, 
slender branches ; Wolsey's Weeping Willow (S. Wolsey- 
ana pendula), a small leaved, dwarf species ; Wisconsin 
Weeping Willow, highly recommended in the West ; Ja- 
pan Weeping Willow (S. Japonica pendula), Palm-leaved 
Willow (S. palmmfolia) , a distinct-red stemmed tree 
with large leaves, and the Ring-leaved Willow (S. Baby- 
lonica, var. annularis), a useful variety of the Weeping 
Willow, the leaves of which are curiously curled. 

THE MAIDEN- HAIR OR GINKGO. Ginkgo. A. 

The common species ( G. adianti folia), an introduction 
from Japan, is a remarkable and elegant tree ; the leaves 



DECIDUOUS TEEES AND SHEUBS. 49 

resemble in shape the fronds of the Maiden-hair ferns 
(Adiantum), but are about three inches broad. The 
growth is naturally rapid and upright, but it can be 
trained against a house or over a trellis like a climber, 
and in this way presents a most singular appearance. 
It is hardy as far north as Buffalo, in partially sheltered 
situations. There is a Broad-leaved Ginkgo' (var. mac- 
ropliylla), with leaves somewhat broader than those of 
the species, and a Varigated-leaved Ginkgo (var. variega- 
ta), a kind that sometimes only shows variegation in the 
leaves. The genus has been called (Salisbtiria), a name 
which must give way to the older Ginkgo. 

the magnolia. Magnolia. A.-E. 

Wherever the Magnolias are known they are highly 
prized as ornamental trees. The large-leaved, native 
species are grand in their foliage and produce showy 
flowers ; while the Asiatic and hybrid sorts are magnifi- 
cent when in flower. They may be planted either as single 
specimens or in open groups on the lawn with good effect, 
and they contrast well with evergreens. One drawback 
to their popularity is the difficulty of transplanting them* 
On this point the well-known nurserymen, Ellwanger & 
Barry, of Eochester, 1ST. Y., say: "To insure success in 
the transplanting they should be moved in the spring, 
never in the fall, and the Chinese varieties at that period 
when they are coming into bloom, and consequently 
before the leaves have made their appearance. Great 
care should be exercised in their removal, the fibrous roots 
being preserved as nearly as possible, and carefully guarded 
from any exposure to wind or sun. While almost any 
good soil is sufficient to insure their growth, they succeed 
best in a soil which is warm, rich, and dry." Among the 
native species which may be named as valuable are the 

Cucumbee Teee (M. acuminata), a rapid, upright 
grower, reaching size A, with oblong-pointed leaves, often 
3 



50 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

nine or ten inches long ; bell-shaped, greenish 3 T ellow 
flowers; the fruit, when green, resembling a cucumber. 

The Heart-shaped Magnolia (M. cordata) blooms 
usually in May and August, producing tulip-shaped yel- 
low flowers ; the oval, slightly cordate leaves are downy 
beneath, E. 

Umbrella Magnolia {M. Umbrella), a rapid-growing 
tree, with immense, long, light-green leaves; creamy-white 
flowers, which are often a foot across, D. 

Great-leaved Magnolia (M. macrophylla), has enor- 
mous leaves, two to three feet long; white, bell-shaped 
flowers, nine or ten inches across ; requires protection in 
the North, C. 

Ear-leaved Magnolia (M. Fraseri), leaves eight to 
twelve inches long, with ear-like lobes at the base; the 
white flowers are six inches across, B. 

The Sweet Bay (M.glauca), with glossy leaves, whitish 
beneath ; flowers pure white, very fragrant ; if carefully 
trained forms a beautiful small tree, E. D. Long-leaved 
Sweet Bay (var. longifolia), is a variety of the preceding, 
with larger leaves, and of stronger growth. 

Great Laurel Magnolia (M. grandiflora) is the 
Magnolia of the Southern States, not hardy north of 
Washington ; remarkable for its large, fragrant flowers 
and evergreen leaves. 

The Chinese and Japanese Magnolias, with their varie- 
ties and hybrids, are the kinds noted chiefly for their 
attractive flowering qualities. 

The Yulan, or Chinese White Magnolia (M. con- 
spicua), has bright, obovate leaves, pure white, fragrant, 
medium-sized flowers, which appear before the leaves, E. 

Purple Magnolia (M. purpurea) resembles the last- 
named, but the flowers are dark-purple on the outside, 
and white within, E. 



DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRUBS. 51 

Slender-growing Magnolia (var. gracilis), a grace- 
ful and finer formed variety of the above, with a more 
slender, fastigiate growth, E. 

Very Dark-purple Japan Magnolia (if. atropur- 
purea), has the darkest flowers of all the Magnolias; later 
in bloom than the Chinese, E. 

Hall's Japan Magnolia (M. stellata), a very early- 




Fig. 4.— MAGNOLIA STELLATA. 

flowering sort, with pure white flowers, the petals arranged 
in double rows. M. hypoleuca and M. parviflora, are com- 
paratively recent introductions of promise. 

The hybrids produced between the species possess high 



52 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

merits. One of the finest and hardiest of all in this sec- 
tion of Asiatic Magnolias is Soulange's Magnolia (M. 
Soulangeana), which closely resembles the White Chinese; 
flowers cup-shaped, white and purple ; foliage large and 
massive, C. The Showy-flowering Magnolia (M. speciosa), 
differs from the last-named in having smaller and some- 
what paler flowers, but producing them in great profusion, 
and they remain longer on the tree than those of any other 
variety; forms a conspicuous specimen tree, C. Norbert's 
Magnolia (M. Norbertiana), resembles Soulange's, but is 
lighter colored. Lenne's Red-flowering Magnolia (M. 
Lennei), very large, deep-reddish-purple flowers, and 
good-sized showy leaves, G. Thompson's Magnolia (var. 
Thompsoniana) , is a hybrid between the American Um- 
brella Magnolia and the Sweet Bay, partaking mostly of 
the character of the latter ; it has large leaves ; large, 
fragrant, creamy-white flowers, but it is tender in the 
North. 

Deciduous Cypress. Taxodium. A-C. 

The several trees that go by this name, are conifers, that 
shed their leaves every autumn like the Larches. They 
somewhat resemble the Larches in form of growth and 
the small size of their leaves ; but are less hardy, and 
thriving only in protected localities in the North. 

The Deciduous Swamp Cypress ( Taxodium distichum) 
is a stately tree of the Southern States, but succeeds in 
the North in protected places, A. There is a variety, 
known as the Weeping Deciduous Cypress (var. pendulum), 
which is a fine tree. 

The Chinese Weeping Deciduous Cypress (T. Si- 
nense 'pendulum and Glyptostrobus pendulus of the cata- 
logues), is now, by the best authorities, regarded as a va- 
riety of the above. It is a beautiful, perfectly straight 
tree, with slightly drooping, horizontal branches and 
twisted foliage in tufts; sheds its lower branches with age. 



DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRUBS. 53 

the Kentucky coffee tree. Gymnocladus Cana- 
densis. B. 
A rapid-growing native tree, with charming, feathery 
foliage, of twice-pinnate leaves, and bark that is singu- 
larly rough, even in small trees. 

the ailanthus. Ailantlius glandulosus. B. 
A rapid-growing tree, with elegant, long, feathery foli- 
age, exempt from all diseases and from nearly all insects. 
This tree may be employed to great advantage in "sub- 
tropical gardening," by cutting it down to the ground an- 
nually. Each spring a vigorous shoot will appear, fur- 
nished with most luxuriant leaves of a tropical aspect. 
The sole objection to the tree is its unpleasant odor at 
flowering time. This may be avoided by propagating (by 
means of root-cuttings) from those trees that have pistil- 
late, or female, flowers only. 

THE LIQUIDAMBAR, OR SWEET GUM, OR BILSTED. 

Liquidambar. B. 
A genus of but two species, one growing in tropical 
Asia, and the other in our own country. L. Styraciflua 
is a desirable tree, somewhat resembling the Maples in 
the shape of its leaves, and the Walnuts in the rough- 
ness qf its bark. The foliage, when bruised, gives off 
a fragrant odor. In autumn the tree assumes a most 
brilliant appearance, the leaves turning red and yellow. 

the yellow- wood. Cladrastis tinctoria. B. 

This is generally conceded to be the finest, hardy-flow- 
ering tree known. In June its white, pea-like, fragrant 
flowers appear in long, hanging clusters that almost cover 
the tree, giving to it an exceedingly handsome appearance. 
The tree is of medium size, with a peculiar graceful sweep 
to the branches. Leaves compound, of a delightful green, 
changing to yellow in the autumn. A slow grower for 
several years after planting. The tree is sometimes 



54 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

called Virgilia, a name that by priority belongs to an 
African tree. 

THE PEPPERIDGE, OR SOUR GUM. NySStt. B. 

This is a picturesque tree, with fine, glossy foliage, 
arranged in distinct, horizontal lines of light and shade, 
something like the American Beech, and turning to 
deep crimson in the autumn. The northern species is 
N. multiflora. 

the sophora. Sophora. B-D. 

There are two Sophoras grown for ornament, namely, 
the common Japan Sophora (S. Japonica), and the 
Weeping Sophora (var. pendula), both of which bear a 
resemblance in delicacy of leaf and flowers to the 
Eobinias, or Locusts. The former is a round-headed, 
upright grower of much beauty, producing in summer 
small, cream-colored flowers in racemes, B. The latter 
is naturally a strong-growing, trailing shrub, but if 
grafted on the common kind at seven or twelve feet high, 
forms a small weeping tree of picturesque appearance. 
The young branches of both are green, and singularly 
contorted. They should be planted on well drained soil, 
and only in sheltered places throughout the North. 

THE ALDER. AlnilS. B. 

A genus of rapid growing trees, especially valuable for 
planting in moist places, although all do well on dry 
land. While some possess but little beauty, others are 
hardly excelled in attractiveness for lawn decoration. 
Among valuable of the Alders are : 

The European Alder (A. glutinosa), with showy, 
roundish foliage, B. Of this there are three cut-leaved 
varieties known respectively as the Imperial Cut-leaved 
Alder (var. laciniata imperialis), a stately tree of vigor- 
ous and graceful growth, and large deeply-cut leaves, 



DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRUBS. 55 

very elegant for the lawn, B. The Common Cut-leaved 
Alder (var. laciniata), less attractive than the last ; and 
the Hawthorn-leaved Alder. There are also the Oak- 
leaved Alder (var. quercifolia), and the Ked-leaved Alder 
(var. rubronervis), the latter having large leaves on strik- 
ing red leaf -stalks. 

The Hoary or Speckled Alder {A. incana) is a dis- 
tinct native species of vigorous growth. Its leaves are 
broad, somewhat toothed, and whitish underneath. A 
cut-leaved variety of this (var. laciniata) makes a hand- 
some tree, with its broad, deeply-cut leaves. 

The Linden-leaved Alder (A. tiliacea) is a fine 
kind, with large, deep-green, hearted-shaped, glossy 
leaves. There are also several Japanese species in culti- 
vation. 

THE MULBERRY. MoTUS. B. G. 

Trees mostly with large, shining leaves, that have a 
singularly fresh and luxuriant appearance, even in the 
dryest of seasons, on which account they are favorites 
wherever they do well. Unfortunately the trees are apt 
to take on a bad, open style of growth some years after 
planting, which greatly mars their beauty. Some pro- 
duce edible fruit. 

The Red Mulberry (Morus rubra) is an American 
species with large, luxuriant, heart-shaped, rarely-lobed 
leaves. 

The White Mulberry (M. alba) is more slender, and 
has smaller leaves than the Red ; it is grown as food 
for silk worms. Fruit pinkish-white, 0. There is a 
variety of the last with larger leaves, sweeter and darker 
fruit, and of a compact, pyramidal habit, called var. 
fastigiata. Downing's Ever-bearing Mulberry is a fine 
variety, yielding delicious fruit, B. 

Several Asiatic species are also grown, such as the 
Black Mulberry {Morus nigra), of moderate growth. 



56 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

Japan Mulberry (M. Tokwa), a stronger grower than the 
last, with large, shining leaves, often curled and crimped 
when developed. 

PAPER MULBERRY. BrOUSSOtietld. 

The Paper Mulberry (B. papyri/era) is so called be- 
cause the Japanese and other orientals make a substitute 
for paper from its inner bark. The species and its 
varieties are handsome, small-sized trees, of rapid growth, 
with smaller leaves than those of the common Mulberries. 
A little tender north of Pennsylvania, C. 

the paulownia. Paulownia imperialis. B. 

This, also known as the Empress Tree, presents a 
most striking appearance under favorable circumstances. 
It has immense leaves, a foot or more across, and beauti- 
ful, gloxinia-like flowers, in upright panicles in May. 
Being somewhat tender in the North when young, and 
the wood becoming brittle and easily broken by winds 
when old, the tree should be planted in a partially 
sheltered place, and if the soil is poor, the growth will 
be the finer for it. Suitable for the sub-tropical garden, 
with annual cutting down. 

the birch. Bet ula. B. C. 

The Birches possess a grace and elegance in their light, 
airy foliage, and slender, clean, often white, branches, 
that is without equal among trees. Most of them are 
specially valuable in small places where large shade trees 
are objectionable, but where some tree verdure is needed 
to break the lines of buildings or give balance to a place, 
as well as for shade. They thrive in any soil, even the 
poorest. 

The European White Birch (B. alba) and its varie- 
ties are especially valuable. The typical form is an ele- 
gant tree of pyramidal outline, and the small branches 



DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRUBS. 57 

are pendant. These latter, of a reddish color, contrast 
finely against the whiteness of the trunk and main 
branches, B. The Cut-leaved Weeping Birch (var. 
pendula laciniata), this popular and charming tree re- 
sembles the species in many respects, but has delicately- 
cut foliage, and a most graceful appearance, which makes 
it a tree of the very first importance in ornamental plant- 
ing, B. Two other varieties : Young's Weeping Birch 
(var. pendula Youngii), considered by some the finest of 
all the Birches, being of rounded, picturesque form, 
with graceful, thread-like shoots, several feet long. The 
Elegant Weeping Birch (var. pendula elegans) has the 
branches pendant towards the ground, and directly par- 
allel with the trunk, both have the white bark of the 
species, and are remarkable for their elegance, D. The 
graceful Weeping Birch (var. tristis) is a variety of pic- 
turesque habit with light branches, arranged in clumps, 
and reaching almost to the ground. The Purple-leaved 
Birch (var. foliis purpureis), an effective kind with foli- 
age that is tinged with purple, C. The Nettle-leaved 
Birch (var. urticifolia) with leaves of dark-green, slight- 
ly cut, and presenting a distinct appearance, D. The 
Downy-leaved Birch (var. pubescens), with roundish 
leaves, and slightly drooping habit ; and the Pyramidal 
Birch (var. fastigiata) of very erect columnar form. All 
the foregoing are varieties of the European White Birch, 
and possess marked value. Among American Birches 
the following are desirable for ornamental planting : 

Sweet or Cherry Birch (B. lento), of rapid growth, 
with large leaves that come out early, and dark-brown 
bark, B. 

Paper or Canoe Birch (B. papyracea), very distinct, 
with brilliant white bark, which may be easily separated 
into thin layers. 

Poplar-leaved or American White Birch (B. alba 



58 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

var. populifolia), a rapid grower, with glossy, triangular 
leaves, B. 

Yellow Birch (B. luted), with golden-yellow bark, B. 
The Low Birch (B. pumila), a shruby form, has numer- 
ous, round, sharply-crenated leaves. 

The newly introduced species (B. costata), is a fine 
tree of erect habit, with the branches somewhat droop- 
ing, and with dark, heart-shaped leaves. 

The Indian Paper Birch (B. Bhojpaltra) is distinct, 
of upright habit and with large, heart-shaped leaves. B. 

locust. (Often called Acacia.) Robinia. B.-D. 

The Black or Yellow Locust (R. Pseudacacia) is a 
well-known native tree, with soft, graceful foliage, of 
refreshing tint and yellowish-white, fragrant flowers ; of 
only common value, B. There are a number of excellent 
varieties of this, such as the Golden Locust (var. aurea), 
a fine tree with golden-tinted foliage. Besson's Locust 
(var. Bessoniana) is considered the best of the Locusts, 
of upright growth, with luxuriant, dark-green foliage, 
and is thornless, B. A variety called bullata is more 
compact in growth, B. Bella-rosea is a thornless variety 
of vigorous habit, with delicate, flesh- colored flowers, 
tinged with yellow, B. There are several varieties Avhich 
have a characteristically erect habit, among these are the 
Pyramidal Locust (var pyramidalis), with dark foliage, 
and one called fastiyiata, resembling the Lombardy 
Poplar in form of growth. The variety spectabilis is a sort 
with straight, vigorous shoots and large leaves. There 
are some varieties of a gobular form of growth, which 
are quite distinct in appearance, namely : Globe or Par- 
asol Locust (var. inermis) is a remarkably handsome, 
thornless tree, that may by clipping be kept as round as 
a ball, J).; var. inermis rubra monstrosa, a tree of 



DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRUBS. 59 

dwarf growth with blush flowers ; var. inermis rubra, 
globe-headed, with white flowers tinged with pink. 

The Rose or Moss Locust (R. Mspida) is a native 
species of low irregular habib, but producing elegant 
racemes of rose-colored flowers in June and later, C. 
The variety grandijlora is extremely attractive when in 
bloom, the flowers, as well as the foliage, being much 
larger than those of the species. 

The Clammy Locust (R. viscosa), a native, is a beau- 
tiful, compact grower, with fine foliage, and pale-pink, 
odorless flowers \ slightly tender in the far North, D. 
A kind offered in some catalogues as the 

Japanese Acacia [Acacia Nemu) is said to be entirely 
distinct, and described as having handsome rose-colored 
flowers and delicate foliage. 

the honey locust. Gleditschia. B. 

The Common Honey Locust (G. triacanthos) is a tree 
with elegant foliage, and which, with proper shearing, is 
one of our best hardy hedge plants, B. 

There are several Asiatic species, embracing the Caspian 
Honey Locust (G. Caspica), of strong growth and irreg- 
ular habit, with large foliage and white flowers, B ; and 
the Chinese Honey Locust (G. Sinensis). 

The Thornless Honey Locust (G. triacanthos, var. 
inermis) is a small, globe-headed tree, with elegant foli- 
age, D. 

The Weeping Honey Locust (var. Bujotii) is a va- 
riety of the common three-thorned species, of graceful, 
slightly pendulous habit ; liable to winter-kill in the 
North, unless growing where well protected. 

the persimmon. Diospyros. 

The American Persimmon (D. Virginiana) is the 
hardiest of the Persimmons, and this needs protection 
when young, in the North. Large, smooth, thickish 



60 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

leaves, and crab-apple-like fruit, that is edible after being 
severely frosted. 

The Japan Persimmon (D. Kaki), and the European 
Persimmon (D. Lotus), both possess fine ornamental 
qualities, but are not to be considered as hardy north of 
Eichmond. The former has a reputation for affording 
good edible fruit. 

THE NETTLE TREE. Celtis. B. 

The American Nettle Tree or Hackberry (C. 
occidentalis) is a desirable tree for ornament, with leaves 
resembling, in part, both the Elm and Apple, B. There 
are also several varieties of this. 

The European Nettle Tree (0. anstralis) is an in- 
teresting tree of vigorous habit, with long, slender 
branches and dark-green leaves. 

the cercidiphyllum. Cercidipliyllum. B. 

C. Japonicum, the only species in cultivation, is a re- 
cent introduction from Northern Japan, and related to 
the Magnolias. Prof. Sargent says that it is perfectly 
hardy about Boston, and of great promise. Foliage 
small, compact, and graceful. Flowers small and incon- 
spicuous. 

THE FLOWERING APPLE AND MOUNTAIN ASH. Pl/ruS. 
B.-C. 

The Flowering Apple and the Mountain Ash, both be- 
longing to the same genus, are herewith placed under one 
head. Of the former, 

The Chinese Double Rose-flowering Crab (P. 
spectdbilis) is a handsome growing tree, with attractive, 
fragrant flowers in May, C. There is a variety of this 
with pale, semi-double flowers. 

The Garland Flowering Crab (P. coronaria) is 
one of our most delightful, small, native trees. Covered 



DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRUBS. 61 

in the spring with blush-colored flowers, which load the 
air with delicious fragrance for a long distance. 

Other ornamental forms are Rivers' Semi-double Crab, 
the Aucuba-leaved, and the Double-flowering Apple. 

The Mountain Ash section of the genus affords a num- 
ber of fine ornamental trees. 

The European Mountain" Ash (P. aucuparia) is an 
excellent, handsome tree, of compact form, showing an 
abundance of scarlet berries from July until winter, C. 
There are several varieties of this, including the Weep- 
ing Mountain Ash (var. pendula), a valuable sort on ac- 
count of its curious habit of growth, D., and two dwarfs 
that are handsome. 

The American Mountain Ash {P.Americana) resem- 
bles the European in many respects, but is less desirable 
On the whole, B. The Elder-leaved Mountain Ash (P. 
sambucifolia) is another native, with pleasing foliage, B. 
The Hybrid Mountain Ash (P. liylrida) is a choice tree, 
with fine, large, grayish leaves, which produce a hand- 
some effect. 

The Oak-leaved Mountain Ash (P. quercifolia) is 
a handsome sort of vigorous habit, and with beautiful 
lobed leaves of bright green, B. The Golden-striped and 
the Golden Hybrid Mountain Ash, and some other varie- 
ties not included here, are valuable only in large col- 
lections. 

the osage orange. Madura aurantiaca. B. 

A native tree of spreading, picturesque habit, and 
handsome, orange-like foliage, which gives to it a pleas- 
ing appearance. Well suited for making hedges in any 
but the northernmost parts of the country. 

the sassafras. Sassafras officinale. B. 

This tree, well known for its spicy bark, is very hand- 
some for small pleasure grounds, if grown in a warm, 



62 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

rich soil. The foliage, which is small and usually two 
and three-lobed, is of a soft texture and has a warm green 
color. There is a peculiar beauty in the soft outlines, 
and lights and shades of this tree, that renders it quite 
distinct in appearance. 

amelanchieh. Mespilus, Medlar. B.-F. 

To simplify matters, I bring together here the orna- 
mental species of the kinds above named in the head. 
They are all closely related to, and somewhat resemble, 
the apple and thorns in leaf and forms of growth. 

Service-berry, Snowy Mespilus, Shad-flower 
and June-rerry, are names used in different localities 
for Amelanchier Canadensis. A small native tree, which 
is especially variable in size, character of its leaves, and 
abundance of its flowers; the var. Botryapium is one of 
the most pleasing, and in spring is covered with a pro- 
fusion of snow-white flowers. The Common European 
species {A. vulgaris) is sometimes cultivated. It has 
smooth leaves and small, white flowers. 

The Medlar {Mespilus Germanica) is a small tree 
with curious tortuous branches, and large, white flowers. 
It is sometimes grown in hedges in Europe, and produces 
a fruit of little value, C. 

ORNAMENTAL CHERRIES, PLUMS, ALMONDS, AND PEACHES. 

Prunus. B.-F. 

Formerly the Cherry, Plum, Almond, and Peach were 
placed in different genera. Sometime ago, botanists 
united the Cherry (Cerasus) with the Plum under 
Prunus, and the more modern authors have placed the 
Almond (Amygdalus), the Peach (Persica), and Apri- 
cot (Armeniaca) all under Prunus. All of these have 
double-flowered varieties, which are highly ornamental 
and deserve more attention from planters than they have 
yet received. 



DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRUBS. 63 

The Double Flowering Cherry (P. avium, fi. pi.), 
is extremely handsome when in bloom, being so densely 
covered with large, pure white, double flowers as to hide 
the branches. 

The Weeping Cherries. — The Common Weeping 
Cherry belongs to the preceding species, and is a pleas- 
ing variety with drooping branches. The Weeping 
Bigarreau Cherry is a good sized, handsome tree, with 
graceful, pendant branches. The D warf Weeping Cherry 
is a very small, beautiful tree, suited to small plots. 
The Weeping Sour Cherry is a fine drooping variety, 
and a new double Cherry from Japan with rose-colored 
flowers, is regarded as a promising ornamental tree. 

The European Bird Cherry (P. Padus), belonging 
to the same section of the genus as our Wild Cherries, is 
an admirable lawn tree. It has a handsome form, good 
foliage, and a profusion of white flowers in long racemes 
in May, 0. 

There are two fine forms with variegated leaves: 

The Aucuba-leaved Cherry with deep-green leaves, 
speckled and splashed with yellowish-white, O.j and the 
Variegated Bird Cherry, with leaves dotted and blotched 
with yellow ; both have a slender drooping habit, C. 

Of the Flowering Plums, those bearing the most re- 
semblance to the common Plum are : the Double Flow- 
ering Sloe (P. spinosa, flore pleno), from Japan, with 
daisy-like, white flowers in spring, followed by purple 
fruit, E.; and the Common Double Flowering Plum (P. 
domestica, fl. pi. ), E. 

Some dwarf Plums are among our best ornamental 
shrubs. The Double Flowering Plum (P. triloba) is a 
very fine, hardy shrub, with beautiful, delicate-pink, 
semi-double flowers, arranged closely along the branches, 
and forming compact spikes. P. tomentosa, from Japan, 
is a fine shrub, with plaited leaves, but inconspicuous 



64 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

flowers, G. P. Sinensis, of some, is a distinct species, 
with small flowers early in the spring, followed by necta- 
rine-like fruit. 

The Flowering Almonds belong here. Some of the 
so-called Flowering Almonds are properly plums or cher- 
ries. One of the best known is the 

Double White Flowering Almond, a small tree 
with a great profusion of double white flowers in 
early spring. It has very rich foliage. The Kose-flow- 
ered Almond resembles the preceding, except in the color 
of its flowers. 

The Dwarf Flowering Almonds (Prunus [amygda- 
lus\ nana) are very old garden favorites, their double 
flowers are rose -colored or white, and produced in great 
profusion. 

The Flowering Peaches, when properly pruned, are 
very handsome, but if left to grow at will, form unsightly 
broad heads. There is a double white and a double rose- 
colored variety, and one in which the flowers are curious- 
ly variegated, being white and rose-colored upon the 
same tree. The Blood-leaved Peach has its foliage in 
spring and early summer of a bright, crimsom color, but 
later it turns to a dull green. 

THE LABURNUM OR GOLDEN CHAIN. Laburnum. C. 

Ornamental, profuse-flowering, small trees and shrubs, 
which succeed in almost any soil, but at the North are 
apt to be injured in winter. 

The Common Laburnum or Golden Chain (Labur- 
num vulgare) has glossy, trifoliate leaves and drooping 
racemes of yellow flowers, which give the tree a very rich 
appearance. 

Alschinger's Laburnum (L. Alschingeri), and 
Park's Laburnum (L. vulgare, var. Parkii), are dis- 
tinct forms, and produce similar racemes of yellow flow- 



DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRUBS. 65 

ers. The Oak-leaved Laburnum (var. quercifolia), and 
the Large-leaved (var. macropliylla), are other varieties 
of merit. 

The Pueple-elowered Laburnum, so called, belongs 
to the closely related genus Cytisus (C. purpureas). It 
produces racemes of golden flowers. The Alpine, or 
Scotch Laburnum (L. alpinum), is regarded as the 
hardiest of the genus ; of dense, irregular, spreading 
form, reaching size B in good soil. Foliage large, smooth, 
and dark. Flowers golden-yellow, in long racemes. 

THE HORNBEAM. CarpillUS. C. 

The American Hornbeam (C. Americana) is a small, 
neat-looking tree, with wiry branches and leaves that 
resemble those of the Beech. Handsome whether planted 
singly or in groups. It is also a good hedge plant. 

The English Hornbeam ( C. Betulus) resembles the 
above, but is of stronger growth, C. There is a dwarf 
variety of this (var. pendula), which, when grafted 
standard high, makes a beautiful, round-headed tree. 
, The Hop-hornbeam or Iron- wood, belongs to a 
closely related genus (Ostrya Virginica). It has a re- 
semblance to the foregoing, but is more upright and 
slender, with smaller leaves. It is valuable as an orna- 
mental tree on account of its light, graceful spray. 

the koelreuteria. Kcelreuteria paniculata. 
A low-growing tree, with fine, brilliant-green, pinnate 
foliage, which turns to a rich yellow in the autumn. 
Flowers golden-yellow, produced in spreading clusters in 
mid-summer, and with showy, inflated seed-pods in 
autumn. A native of China. 

THE JUDAS-TREE OR RED-BUD. Cercis. C.-E. 

The American Judas-Tree (C. Canadensis) is a 
small tree, with large, glossy, heart-shaped leaves, and 



66 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

in spring, before the foliage comes, is covered all along 
the branches with delicate pink flowers in great profu- 
sion, G. 

The Oriental Judas-Tree (<7. Chinensis ; G. Japon- 
ica in some catalogues), is another valuable kind, more 
dwarf and compact than the American, with thick, 
roundish leaves, of a dark-green color, and has larger 
and brighter flowers, E. 

THE VIRGINIAN OR WHITE FRINGE. CMonantllUS 

Virginica. G. 

This is a handsome small tree or bush, with large, 
glossy, acutely-elliptical leaves, and drooping racemes of 
fringe-like, white flowers in the spring ; a great favorite 
generally. 

the dogwood. Cornus. C.-G. 

The Flowering Dogwood (C. florida) is a fine, 
small tree, with glossy, grayish-green foliage, that turns 
to a most attractive red in autumn. Its chief charm is 
its large, pure-white flowers, produced in spring before 
the leaves appear. The showy portion of the flowers is 
really the bracts or appendages surrounding the clusters, 
the real flowers being small and inconspicuous. Delights 
in a well-drained, rich soil, C. 

The Weeping Dogwood, said to be a variety of O. 
florida, is described as being handsome, of upright 
growth, and pendulous branches, with flowers and foliage 
resembling the parent. 

The Round-leaved Dogwood (G. circinata) has 
roundish leaves, downy beneath ; young shoots green, 
blotched with purple ; small, white flowers in flat cymes, 
G. 

Alternate-leaved Dogwood (G. alter nifolia), a 
beautiful shrub, but it may be trained in a tree form ; 



DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRUBS. 67 

it has yellowish-white flowers, in May and June, and 
blue-black fruit in autumn, E. 

The Red-branched or Osier Dogwood (C. san- 
guinea), a species from Europe. It is a large, spreading 
bush, with blood-red bark that is conspicuous in winter, 
and especially so in early spring. White flowers, G. 

The Red Siberian Dogwood, (C. SiMrica, var. var- 
iegata), is a remarkable new shrub, with richer colored 
bark than the last named, and with leaves slightly mar- 
gined with a silvery color ; undoubtedly a great acquisi- 
tion. 

The Cornelian Cherry (C. Mas.), an European 
species, somewhat resembling the Flowering Dogwood, 
and bearing yellowish flowers early in the spring, with 
edible fruit later. The Variegated Cornelian Cherry 
(var. variegata) has richly variegated leaves, more than 
one half of their surface being of a clear silvery-white, 
giving the shrub an exceedingly handsome and distinct 
appearance, which renders it unequalled as a silvery- 
hued shrub, F. 

the thorn. Cratcequs. C. H. 



There are many species of thorns in cultivation, not 
one of which is undesirable where room is abundant. All 
are well adapted for growing in lawns of small area. 
Some of the best are the double-flowering varieties, with 
red, pink, and white flowers. 

The Common Hawthorn (C. OxyacantJia) is the cel- 
brated English hedge plant. The Arbutus-leaved, Apple- 
leaved, Pear-leaved, Glossy-leaved, Parsley-leaved, and 
many others are varieties of this species. Nearly all are 
of oompact growth, and will grow in any soil and situation, 
producing their very attractive flowers most freely. They 
readily bear pruning, and are well adapted for hedges. 

The Evergreen Thorn (C. Pyracantha) is a hand- 



68 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

some, small species, that retains its dark-green foliage 
through the winter, it has purplish and white flowers, 
and red fruit ; there is a variety with white fruit. 

the buckthorn. Rhamnus catharticus. 

Is a fine shrub for hedges. It has small, dark leaves, 
and inconspicuous greenish-white flowers. There is a 
variety of Buckthorn (var. latifolius) with larger lea res. 

the witch hazel. Hamamelis Virginica. 

A native, tall shrub, with somewhat downy leaves, in 
appearance resembling those of the Hazel. It is notable 
for producing its curious yellow flowers late in autumn, 
just as the leaves are falling, at the same time the cap- 
sules from the flowers of the previous year open and 
eject their seeds. Some recent introductions from Japan 
belonging to this genus are little known as yet. 

THE SUMACH. RJlUS. E. 

The Purple Fringe (R. Cotinus), known also as the 
Venetian Sumach, Smoke-Tree, Mist-Tree, Wig-Tree, 
etc., is an old favorite, which is prized for its handsome 
appearance at mid-summer and later, when it is covered 
with its large, cloud-like, masses of "fringe." These 
are really the enlarged branching and very hairy flower- 
stalks of abortive flowers. They are often tinged with 
red, and are very ornamental. The foliage has a fresh 
appearance and in autumn takes on rich colors. It 
should be grown in the form of a shrub, E. 

Osbeck's Chinese Sumach (R. Osbeckii) is a new 
species with handsome foliage, that turns to attractive 
colors in autumn. 

The Fragrant Sumach (R. aromatica) is a showy, 
early-flowering shrub, the flowers of which are succeeded 
by showy berries. Several other native Sumachs are de- 
sirable for ornamental planting. Of these the 



DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRUBS. 69 

Staghorn Sumach (E. typliina) is especially note- 
worthy on account of its elegant, compound leaves, which 
assume colors of great brilliancy in autumn, at which 
time it bears its bunches of crimson berries, C. 

The Cut-leaved Sumach (R. glabra, var. laciniata) 
is a variety of our most common native species, with re- 
markably handsome, fern-like leaves, which are dark- 
green above, and glaucous below. 

the lilac Syringa. E. 

The Lilac, represented by a large number of species, 
and innumerable varieties, is one of our most valuable 
ornamental shrubs. Of the easiest culture in any or- 
dinarily good soil, with attractive foliage and very fragrant 
flowers, it is rarely the case in adorning grounds, what- 
ever may be their size, that some of the Lilacs cannot be 
used to good advantage. Some are disposed to send up 
sprouts from the roots, but these may be easily kept 
down. They can be grown to a tree form with careful 
pruning, but should generally be trained with a low 
head. The well-known 

Common Lilac (S. vulgaris), with purple and white 
flowers, still ranks high in value. From this have sprung 
many varieties, some of which are improvements on the 
species. Some of these have larger flowers than the 
parent, or differently colored ; others vary in their 
habit of growth, there being both dwarf and stronger 
growing sorts, and there is one variety called Golden- 
leaved Lilac (var. variegata), with large; yellowish-green 
foliage, which is valuable for creating contrasts of color. 
The Asiatic species possess great value, being, as a rule, 
more graceful and delicate in form, and with smaller 
leaves than those of the Common Lilac. 

The Persian Lilac (S. Persica) has large panicles 
of somewhat loosely arranged, dark lilac flowers. This 



70 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

forms a bush of great beauty when grown where it has 
a chance to develop. The Persian White Lilac (var. 
alba) is like the preceding, except in the color of the 
flowers. There is also a Cut-leaved variety. 

The Chinese Lilac (S. dubia, also S. CMnensis of 
some), is a species resembling the Persian, but with 
longer leaves, and of which there are several varieties, 
including reddish, purple, and white. 

Emod's Lilac (S. Emodi) is a distinct and choice 
Chinese species, which assumes a tree-like form, and has 
white flowers, D. 

The Rouen or French Red Lilac (S. dubia, var. 
Rotlwmagensis), is said to be a hybrid between the Com- 
mon Lilac and the Persian, and embodies perhaps more 
good qualities than any other Lilac. The flowers are 
reddish, in numerous, large panicles, C. 

Josika's or Chionanthus-leaved Lilac (S. Josi- 
Tcma) is a distinct and remarkably handsome variety, 
of strong, upright growth, and with long, rich, shining 
leaves. Flowers purple, appearing after other kinds 
have flowered. 

Verschaffelt's Lilac (S. Verschaffelti) is another 
distinct variety, with flowers in large compact panicles, 
dark-red in the bud, changing to lilac as they open. 

the caragana or pea-tree. Caragana. E. 

Low growing trees or shrubs from Asia, with peculiar 
acacia-like, light-green leaves, with a golden hue, and 
which contrast in a marked manner with most other 
shrubs. Flowers yellowish. 

The Siberian Pea-Tree (C. Altagana) is of pleasing 
habit and quite hardy. 

The Chinese Pea-Tree (C. Ghamlagu) throws up 
erect branches at first, but later they droop. 



DECIDUOUS TKEES AND SHRUBS. 71 

The Arborescent Pea-Tree (C. arborescens) is up- 
right in habit, but always remains small. There are 
still other kinds named in some lists. 

the elder. Sambucus. E.-G. 

Large shrubs, with ornamental foliage, flowers and 
fruit, that entitle them to a place in large collections of 
shrubs. With the exception of the Out-leaved they are 
rather coarse for small lawns. 

European Elder (S. nigra), of large, irregular, 
picturesque growth, with broad cymes of white flowers 
in mid-summer. Very popular in European parks, E. 
Golden-leaved Elder (var. aurea), a handsome, but 
rather coarse shrub, with bright, golden- splashed foliage, 
and sweet, white flowers in July. Variegated-leaved 
Elder (var. variegata), leaves edged and mottled with 
yellowish-white. Improved by severe pruning occasion- 
ally, as the variegation on the young growth is the most 
attractive, G. Cut-leaved Elder (var. laciniata), a valu- 
able cut-leaved shrub, with elegantly divided leaves, G. 

The Common American Elder (S. Canadensis) is 
useful for ornament in large grounds, and can usually 
be procured without cost. 

SNOWDROP OR SILVER-BELL TREE. HaUsia, E. 

The Four- winged Snowdrop or Silver-bell (IT. 
tetraptera) is a graceful shrub, bearing a profusion of 
pretty, white, bell-shaped flowers, resembling somewhat 
those of the little snowdrop, in May, and are followed 
by curious four-winged fruit. Thrives in poor soil and 
does not object to moist places. 

The Two- winged Snowdrop (H. diptera) has larger 
leaves than the last named, and is less common. 



72 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

THE HOP-TREE OR SHRUBBY TREFOIL. Pteha tHfoliata. 
E. 

A large shrub or small tree of rapid growth, with 
handsome, smooth, trifoliate leaves in June, clustered 
whitish flowers followed by seed-pods, which in taste 
and odor resemble hops. Makes a handsome low tree, if 
trained with a single stem. 

the tamarisk. Tamarix. E. 

Shrubs of strong, irregular growth, with delicate, 
feathery foliage, somewhat resembling the Juniper, and 
with the branches covered with fine, pink flowers in 
June. The general growth is coarse. There are several 
species which do not differ much in appearance. The 
most generally cultivated is T. Oallica. 

the spicebush. Linderci Benzoin. E. 

A large and rather pleasing native shrub, with light- 
green foliage, and small clusters of yellowish flowers, ap- 
pearing in early spring before the leaves. 

the aralia. Aralia. 

A genus comprising small, singular-looking trees, with 
large, showy, and much divided leaves. Useful for 
creating "tropical" effects in gardens. Of free growth, 
but needing a little protection in exposed places. 

The Oriental Aralia (A. Chinensis, also called A. 
Japonica), is of dwarf, spreading form, with prickly 
stems and shoots, large feathery leaves, and white 
flowers. 

The Mandschurian Aralia is a variety of the fore- 
going {A. Chinensis, var. elata, which has been called 
Dimorphanthus Mandshuricus), is a Chinese species, 
with hairy and prickly bipinnate leaves. 



DECIDUOUS TKEES AND SHRUBS. 73 

Angelica Tree or Hekcules' Club (A. spinosa), a 
native kind, with stout stems, and very large leaves ; 
throws up suckers from the roots. 

spindle-tree or burning-bush. Euonymus. E.-G. 

A genus with mostly pleasing foliage of a fresh green 
color, showing to fine advantage among other shrubs. 
They nearly all bear a profusion of crimson and scarlet 
or ornamental fruit, Avhich renders the trees very attrac- 
tive in the autumn, and it is to this that most of them 
owe their common names. 

The Strawberry Bush (E. Americanus), a small 
bush, rarely over five feet high, with rich, shining leaves, 
and medium-sized scarlet berries, E. 

The Burning-bush or Spindle-tree (E. atropur- 
pureus), a handsome native species, of erect habit and 
fresh, green foliage, with bright crimson, or purplish 
fruit. 

The Broad-leaved Euonymus (E. latifolius) is an 
exceedingly fine European species, with broad, glossy 
leaves, and large, deep-red fruit. 

The Winged Euonymus (E. alatus) from Japan is 
interesting on account of the wings, that extend down 
the stems. 

The European Burning-bush (E. Europceus) is a 
a large species, with handsome foliage and fruit. Of 
this one there are several varieties that are quite orna- 
mental, such as the Purple-leaved Euonymus (var. atro- 
purpureus), with purple leaves in autumn ; the White- 
fruited Euonymus ; the Linear-leaved Euonymus, with 
narrow, dark-colored foliage, and of small size ; the 
Dwarf Euonymus, of dwarfish form, with dark-green 
leaves, G. 

The handsome, evergreen, Japanese kinds are very 
desirable where they will stand the winters uninjured. 
4 



74 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

THE ROSE OF SHARON OR SHRUBBY ALTH^A. HibtSCUS. 
E.-G. 

Mostly free-growing shrubs of upright forms, produc- 
ing showy flowers resembling hollyhocks, in the late 
summer season, and at a time when few hardy trees and 




Fig. 5.— rose of sharon, variegated (Hibiscus Syriacus, var.) 

shrubs are in bloom. To keep them in good shape, 
they should be closely headed-in annually. The first 
two winters after planting there should be a liberal coat 
of coarse litter applied over the roots in the North, to 
protect them from cold, and after that they will prove 
very hardy. 
All of the many varieties that are now offered in 



DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRUBS, 75 

nurseries, are descendents of H. Syriacus, a free flower- 
ing, but rather coarse grower. There are single and 
double flowering varieties of white, red, purple, pink, 
rose, violet, and other colors, and some are beautifully 
striped or blotched. The double flowering sorts are 
generally the handsomest shrubs. One of the most val- 
uable of the double flowering kinds is the Variegated- 
leaved Hibiscus (fig. 5), with leaves which are conspicu- 
ously marked with light-yellow, on a green ground, and 
one of the very best variegated-leaved shrubs; flowers 
purple, but not showy, F. 

THE MOCK ORANGE OR SYRINGA. PMlacMpllUS. E.-H. 



How the name Syringa ever came to stand so improp- 
erly, yet generally for this genus, it is hard to tell, and 
its use both for these shrubs, and for the Lilac, where it 
rightly belongs, tends to confusion in names. However, 
it may be said that no collection of shrubs can be con- 
sidered complete without the presence of the Mock 
Oranges. They are noted for their sweet and showy, 
white, or nearly white, flowers, single and double, their 
handsome and free growth, and their remarkable adapta- 
bility to any place and soil. 

The Common or Garland Mock Orange (P. coro- 
narius), also called Garland Syringa, is a rapid-growing, 
slightly coarse shrub, well known for its showy and fra- 
grant, white flowers, E. Double -flowering Mock Orange 
is an attractive semi-double- flowering form of the above. 
The Dwarf Mock Orange (var. nana) is a handsome, and 
very dwarf-growing variety, more valued for its generally 
fine and cleanly appearance, than for its flowers, which 
are shyly produced, H. The Golden-leaved Mock 
Orange is a very pretty dwarf variety, with yellow-tinged 
foliage ; valuable for single specimens, clumps, or for 
contrasts of foliage, H. The Dwarf Double-flowering 



76 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

Mock Orange (P. dianthiflora) is another low-growing 
variety of great beauty, with fine, double, creamy-white, 
fragrant flowers. 

There are several other species and varieties not vary- 
ing greatly in general respects from the sorts above de- 
scribed. The Large-flowering Mock Orange (P. grandi- 
florus). Gordon's Late-flowering Mock Orange (P. 
Gordonianus). Red-twigged Mock Orange {P. sanguin- 
eus), among older sorts, and P. laxus with very large 
flowers ; P. nivalis, with snowy-white flowers, among 
recent introductions, are perhaps entitled to special 
mention on account of their merits. 

the viburnum. Viburnum. E.-O. 

This genus gives us a number of our most valuable 
and interesting ornamental shrubs. They are perfectly 
hardy, of easy growth in most any soil, and produce 
both handsome foliage and flowers. For the sake of 
variety some may readily be grown to a tree form. 

The Common Snowball or Guelder Rose ( V. Opulus 
sterilis) is a well known variety, with large, globular 
cymes of pure-white, sterile flowers, of a very showy 
character, E. The High or Bush Cranberry ( V. Opulus) 
is the original form of the Snowball, with coarser foliage 
and habit of growth, and less showy flowers, the clusters 
of which have only sterile flowers around the margin ; 
those in the interior of the cyme are not showy, but are 
followed by scarlet, acid fruit, sometimes used as a sub- 
stitute for cranberries, E. A dwarf variety (var. nana) 
forms a much smaller bush, H. 

The Japan or Dwarf Snowball ( V. plicatum) is a 
shrub of great merit, and is much finer than the common 
Snowball, with whiter flowers of the same form, a dwarf 
habit of growth and much handsomer foliage. The 
leaves are firm, plaited, of a rich green, and contrast 



DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRUBS. 77 

finely with the handsome, pure-white flowers, G. Sever- 
al other introductions from Japan are announced, which 
are well spoken of. 

The Nepal Viburnum ( V. Nepalense) is a robust- 
growing species, with white flowers appearing later than 
most others. 

Koguh-leaved Viburnum ( V. rugosum) has large, 
dark-green, rough leaves, and white flowers in cymes, G. 

The Lantana-leaved Viburnum or Hobble Bush 
( V. lantanoides), also called the Way-faring Tree ; the 
Plum-leaved Viburnum ( V. prunifoUum), the Withe- 
Kod ( V. nudum), and several other native species are 
also suitable for ornamental planting. 

the bush honeysuckle. Lonicera. E.-H. 

The Bush Honeysuckles are mostly strong-growing 
shrubs, of good habit, producing a profusion of fragrant 
flowers, which are generally followed by ornamental 
fruit. They thrive in any soil and situation. 

The Tartarian Honeysuckle (L. Tartarica) is a 
well-known shrub with pink, and there is a variety with 
almost white, flowers, E. Varieties of the Tartarian, 
known as the Large-flowering Honeysuckles, both pink 
and white, resemble the common, but are more robust in 
habit and have larger flowers. There is also one with 
variegated foliage (fig. 6), E. 

The Fragrant Bush Honeysuckle (L. fragrantis- 
sima) is of low spreading growth, with branches thickly 
studded, before the leaves appear, with clusters of whitish 
flowers, having a delicious fragrance, G. 

Ledebour's Honeysuckle (L. Ledebourii) is a dis- 
tinct and very fine species. The flowers, which are yel- 
low, appear in June, and are followed by showy red 
bracts, which bear the appearance of flowers ; foliage a 



78 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

rich deep green ; a shapely grower, E. Standish's 
Honeysuckle (L. Standisliii) has large leaves with April 
flowers, that are reddish outside and white within, E. 
The English Fly Honeysuckle (L. Xylosteum) has very 




Fig. 6. — Tartarian honetsuckle, tariegated (Lonicera Tartarica var.) 

sweet, pinkish flowers before the leaves come. A dwarf, 
native species with oval, downy leaves and blue berries, 
is called the Mountain Honeysuckle (L. cmruled), H. 

the stuartia. (Stuartia). E-G. 

8. pentagyna is a charming low tree or shrub, resem- 
bling the Dogwood somewhat in its foliage, and produc- 



DECIDUOUS TKEES AND SHRUBS. 79 

ing creamy-white, saucer-shaped flowers in summer. A 
native of the southern mountains, it should be planted 
only in sheltered places in the Northern States, E. 

The Virginian Stuartia (S. Virginica) is another 
fine species, more dwarf than the preceding kind, but 




stuaktia {Stuartia pentagyna). 



resembling it in form, foliage, and time of flowering. 
Not hardy north of Virginia, G. Several recent intro- 
ductions from Japan have been reported, which have not 
been well tested as yet. 



80 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

THE WEIGELA. Bier -villa. E-H. 

A much esteemed genus of flowering shrubs which, 
while represented by a few natives of little value for any 
ornament, owes its fame to the handsome introductions 
from China and Japan, and varieties of these. The 
Weigelas are good growers, profuse bloomers, and in their 
foliage always present a rich glow of vigor, that is most 
pleasing. Mostly erect-growing when young, but chang- 
ing later to a drooping form. The well-known and 
handsome 

Rose-colored Weigela (D. rosea), which bears love- 
ly, rose-colored flowers in the greatest profusion in June, 
is the species from which have sprung either directly or 
by hybridization with others, most of the excellent sorts 
now cultivated. Its habit is all that could be desired, G. 
Of the varieties and hybrids there are many, which range 
in colors from the lightest pink — almost white — through 
rose and red down to dark reddish-purple and brownish- 
black, and all are of excellent habit, producing their 
beautiful flowers with great freedom, and would be sure 
to prove satisfactoiy to planters. 

The Variegated-leaved Dwarf AVeigela is a 
variety quite similar to the parent in the shape of the 
leaves and flowers, but of dwarfish habit, and with the 
foliage variegated with a golden tint, which gives to it a 
distinct and handsome appearance. 

Among other valuable and distinct kinds are several 
white-flowered sorts, embracing the old White-flowered 
"Weigela (D. hortensis nivea), which produces fine blos- 
soms, but is a rather unsatisfactory grower; and the 
charming New White-flowered Weigela (D. Candida), 
which, with its freely produced, pure white flowers and 
vigorous habit, is destined to rank as one of the best 
of the Weigelas. The D. arborea-grandiflora is a late 
blooming sort, producing long, tubular, pale-yellow 



DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRUBS. 81 

flowers, which change to rose-color, of strong growth 
with large leaves. 

THE BLADDER-NUT. StaphyUd. E. 

The American Bladder-nut (8. trifolia) is a native 
upright shrub, with greenish- striped branches, pinnate 
leaves, of three to five leaflets each, and small, white 
flowers in drooping racemes. 

Asiatic Bladder-nut (S. Colchica) is a handsome 
spring-flowering shrub, with clusters of fragrant white 
flowers. The European Bladder-nut (S. pinnata) is a 
native of the south of Europe, resembles our native spe- 
cies in a general way, but rather more vigorous. 

the bladder senna. Colutea. E. 

The Common Bladder Senna (C. arborescens) is a 
quick-growing shrub, with fine, light-green, compound 
leaves, and bright, yellowish, pea-shaped flowers in June 
and July, followed by bladder-like pods, E. The Orien- 
tal Bladder Senna (C. cruenta) is a smaller species than 
the last, with reddish-colored flowers. Aleppo Bladder 
Senna ( C. Halepica) bears a general resemblance to the 
first-named; flowers orange-colored. 

To keep the Coluteas furnished with branches and 
foliage at the bottom, they should be freely cut back at 
times. C. arborescens may, however, be readily trained 
into a very pretty tree. 

the privet. Ligustrum. E. 

The Privets are handsome shrubs, with rich, dark- 
green leaves of waxy texture, and which come early and 
hang until the winter; they also produce attractive 
flowers in early summer. They are well adapted for 
hedges, and possess the valuable quality of growing and 



82 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

flowering well in partial shade and even under trees. 
A good, strong soil is preferred by them. 

The Common Privet (L. vulgare) has small, shining, 
dark-green leaves and white flowers in terminal panicles, 
which are succeeded by small, black berries. Among the 
varieties of the Common Privet with smallish leaves, are 
the Box-leaved Privet (var. buxifolia), with short, thick 
leaves. White-berried Privet (var. leucocarpa), with 
white fruit, and the Weeping Privet (var. penduld), of 
weeping habit and quite ornamental, when grafted on 
other stocks. 

There are several varieties with much larger leaves 
than the common, such as the Oval-leaved Privet (L. 
oralifolium), and the Laurel-leaved Privet (L. laurifo- 
lium), all of which are very attractive with rich, waxy- 
looking foliage, and are pleasing either when grown 
singly, in groups, or in hedges. 

THE OLEASTER, OR WILD OLIVE. ElwagmiS. E. 

The Silver-leaved Oleaster (E. argentea) is a 
strong-growing, spreading shrub, with delicate, narrow, 
silvery leaves, that give it a peculiar appearance, and 
make it very desirable for contrasting with other trees 
and shrubs. Small yellow flowers in summer. 

Garden or European Oleaster (E. hortensis) is 
an elegant species of stronger growth than the former 
one, and with wider leaves, of a striking silvery color. 
It is covered in June with small yellow flowers, having 
bright, silvered calyxes, which give to the shrub increas- 
ed whiteness at this season. The sweetness of the 
flowers, which is very pleasant and marked, is wafted for 
some distance on the air. Very desirable for contrasts; 
does well on the sea-shore. The Small-flowered Oleaster 
(var. nivea) is a variety of the last, forming a fine com- 



DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRUBS. 83 

pact bush with silvery leaves, and bearing showy fruit. 
Sometimes used for hedges. 

There are several Japanese species, among them E. 
longipes, and other desirable sorts, possessing the general 
characteristics of the genus. 

THE FALSE INDIGO. AmOTpTld. G-H. 

Large shrubs of open-growing, almost ungainly habit, 
which are susceptible, however, of improvement in this 
respect by pruning, and with pleasing, pinnate foliage, 
that contrasts well with that of most other shrubs. The 
Common False Indigo (A. fruticosa) is a native of the 
Southern and Western States, but hardy at the North, 
producing spikes of dark-purple flowers in June, G. 
Fragrant Amorpha (var. angustifolia), a hairy shrub, 
bearing dark-colored flowers in the summer, G. The 
Lead-plant [A. canescens), of low growth, has dark- 
blue flowers in July and August, H. 

THE WINTERBERRY. Ilex, § PHilOS. E-G. 

The Common Winterberry, or Black Alder (/. 
verticillata) , is a fine native shrub, related to the Holly, 
with glossy-red berries in autumn and early winter; 
should be planted in peaty soil, E. Another species, the 
Smooth-leaved Winterberry (Z laevigata), has berries 
similar to the preceding, but larger and earlier, E. There 
is also a dwarf evergreen species, known as the Inkberry 
(7. glabra), the fruit of which is black; leaves small and 
lance-shaped, G. 

the button-bush. Cephalantlius occidentalis. G. 

A native shrub, growing in moist places, of rounded 
form, with thick, glossy leaves, and globular clusters of 
yellowish-white flowers in July and August. Desirable 
for planting at the water's edge. 



84 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

the calycanthus. Calycanthus. G. 

Shrubs of good habit, with handsome, rich foliage ; 
fragrant wood and flowers, that are prized for their pecu- 
liar sweetness, color, and form. 

The Common Calycanthus (C. floridus), also called 
Carolina Allspice and Sweet-scented Shrub, has soft 
leaves, downy beneath; double chocolate-colored flowers 
in June, which possess a rich, strawberry-like fragrance, G. 

Of other species, the following are grown for orna- 
ment : Glaucous-leaved Calycanthus (C. glaucus), witli 
larger and handsomer leaves than the last. Smooth- 
leaved Calycanthus (0. Icevigatns); Long-leaved Caly- 
canthus (C. elongatus); Large-fruited Calycanthus (C. 
macrocarpus), a Californian species, tender while young. 

the forsythia or golden bell. Forsythia. G. 

Fortune's Forsythia (F. Fortunei) is one of our best 
hardy shrubs, of strong-growing habit, handsome foliage, 
which hangs until late in the autumn, and delightful, 
yellow, drooping flowers very early in the spring, G. 
The Weeping Forsythia ( F. suspensa) is of slender, strag- 
gling growth, the branches curving to the ground, or 
they may be trained like a climber. F. viridissima re- 
sembles Fortune's in its flowers, but blooms a little earlier, 
and is of a neat habit, with rich-looking, dark -green foli- 
age, G. 

the hazel-nut or filbert. Corylus. G. 

The Purple-leaved Hazel (C. Avellana, var. pur- 
purea), is a vigorous shrub, with large purple leaves, 
which give it a fine appearance, making it valuable for 
contrasts, G. The American Hazel (C. Americana) is an 
ornamental shrub, producing delicious nuts, and suitable 
for any large collection of shrubs. The Cut-leaved 



DECIDUOUS TREES AXD SHRUBS. 85 

Hazel (C. Avellana laciniata) has deeply cut foliage, that 
renders the shrub very ornamental. The Constantinople 
Hazel ( C. Column) is a strong grower, with large leaves. 

THE WHITE ALDER OR CLETHRA. Clethra. G.-H. 

The Alder-leaved Clethra (C. ulnifolin), also 
called the Sweet Pepper-bush, is a dense-growing, native 
shrub, with light-green foliage, resembling the Alder, 
and spikes of sweet, white flowers in mid-summer, of 
which the honey-bee is fond, H. Acuminate-leaved 
Clethra (C. acuminata) is of stronger growth and has 
larger leaves than the last, G. 

the ceaxothus. Ceunotlius. G.-H. 

Shrubs of rather small value, except for the sake of 
variety. The New Jersey Tea or American Ceanothus 
(C. Americnnus) has small racemes of white flowers from 
June to August, H. C. thyrsiflorus and C. velutinus 
are natives of California and Oregon, of sub-evergreen 
character, G. 

the callicarpa. Callicarpa. G. 

A genus of low-growing shrubs, mostly tender ever- 
greens. C. Americana, also called the "French Mul- 
berry," is a handsome, somewhat coarse, deciduous 
shrub, with inconspicuous flowers, followed by violet- 
colored berries. The Purple Callicarpa (C. purpurea) 
is a species from China and Japan, with rather brilliant, 
but small, purple flowers in summer. There are others 
from Asia which must be classed among plants too 
tender for general planting. 

the barberry. Berberis. G.-H. 

The Barberries are a useful class of shrubs, attractive 
in their style of growth, their foliage and their fruit. 
Sometimes they are used in ornamental hedges. 



86 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

The American Barberry (B. Canadensis) is of erect 
habit when young, but in time the branches droop. Yel- 
low flowers in spring, followed by showy red berries. 

The Common European Barberry (B. vulgaris) is 
a handsome shrub, the branches of which curve out- 
wards and downwards with exquisite grace. Small, 
rounded leaves ; yellow flowers in the spring, followed by 
clusters of brilliant fruit, G. The Purple-leaved Bar- 
berry (var. purpurea) resembles the last named kind, 
but in addition the foliage is of a reddish-violet color 
throughout the season, serving to make this the most 
valuable, purple-leaved shrub in cultivation, If. There 
is also a Violet-fruited Barberry (var. fructu violacea). 
The Evergreen Barberries will be found under Mahonia. 

the hydrangea. Hydrangea. G. 

A genus embracing some of the most attractive, large- 
flowering shrubs in cultivation. The Japanese species 
are the most valuable for flowers. Of these the follow- 
ing is placed first on the list, because hardy throughout 
the United States. 

The Panicled Hydrangea (H. panicnlata) is a vig- 
orous-growing species, with upright panicles of white 
flowers, standing well above the foliage in July. The 
Large-flowered variety of this, H. paniculata grandiflora, 
is of vigorous, spreading form, with immense pyramidal 
panicles, a foot or more long, of white flowers that change 
to pink. The plant delights in rich soil, and when well 
provided for in this respect, a large bush will sometimes 
bear from one to two hundred of these large panicles — 
many bending gracefully downwards. 

The other Japanese species, of which the Common or 
Changeable Hydrangea (ff. Hortensia) is a type, are not 
hardy in the North, but are easily grown in boxes, while 
further South they thrive without protection. 



DECIDUOUS TEEES AND SHRUBS. 87 

The native Hydrangeas are vigorous, somewhat coarse 
growers and hardy, with large leaves and showy heads of 
flowers. They delight in deep soil and moisture. Of 
these the Oak-leaved Hydrangea (H. quercifolia) is a 
vigorous, shapely grower, with large leaves, downy 
beneath, and richly tinted in the autumn ; white flowers 
in spikes. H. arborescens has ovate, rarely heart-shaped 
leaves, and white flowers in flattened heads. H. radiata, 
formerly H. nivea, is a vigorous grower, with the leaves 
very white underneath. 

THE FLO WEEING CUREANT. RlbeS. G. 

Hardy, vigorous, profusely-flowering shrubs, very at- 
tractive early in the spring when in bloom, and again in 
autumn, from the brilliant colors which the foliage 



The Yellow-floweeing or Missouei Cureant (R. 
aureum) is a well known species, with gay and sweet- 
scented flowers early in the spring and shining leaves. 

The Ceimson-floweeing Cueeant (R. sanguineum) 
is a species producing many deep-red flowers in early 
spring. Of this kind there are several varieties, namely: 
var. albidum with slightly pinkish-white flowers ; var. 
camea with flesh-colored flowers ; Double Crimson-flow- 
ering Currant (flore pleno) with double crimson flowers. 

Goedon's Cueeant (R. Gordonianum) a hybrid be- 
tween the yellow and the crimson sorts, has flowers that 
combine both yellow and crimson colors, and produced 
in hanging bunches in May. 

THE JAPAN QUINCE. PyrilS. G. 

The Japan Quinces possess a number of qualities, than 
which nothing more desirable could be wished for in orna- 
mental shrubs. They are handsome growers and assume 



88 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

fine forms, with rich glossy foliage and flowers, that in 
point of brilliancy, are unequalled. Whether the shrubs 
are grown as single specimens, in masses, or mingled with 
other shrubs, the effect is certain to be fine. They are 
perfectly adapted for making hedges. The flowers come 
very early in the spring, covering the entire plant, while 
the foliage retains its beauty until late in the fall. 

The Scarlet Japan Quince (P. Japonica) is the 
species, and produces bright scarlet-crimson flowers, 
with great freedom. Of this there are numerous varie- 
ties, which are equally valuable with and closely resem- 
ble the parent, except in variation of the colors of the 
flowers, which range from light-blush to the most brilliant 
orange-scarlet. A Variegated-leaved sort is mentioned, 
which I have not seen. 

the cotoneaster. Cotoneaster. G.-H. 

Attractive shrubs when well grown, but they must be 
introduced with caution in the Northern States, as 
most of them would be liable to suffer in winter, unless 
greatly favored in regard to shelter. 

The Downy or Nepaul Cotoneaster {C. affinis) is 
one of the hardiest, with smooth, soft leaves, somewhat 
resembling those of the pear-tree, and producing white 
flowers in May. 

The Frigid Cotoneaster (C. frigida) is only half 
hardy ; smooth, pointed leaves, and panicles of small, 
white flowers. The Moneywort-leaved Cotoneaster (C. 
nummularia) is quite hardy as well as handsome. Some 
nurseries furnish it grafted on Mountain Ash, in which 
form it makes a beautiful, small, lawn tree. The Round- 
leaved Cotoneaster (0. rotundifolia) is of fine, spreading 
habit, white flowers, H. The Loose-flowering Cotoneas- 
ter ( C. laxiflora) is also a dwarf sort, and has pinkish 
flowers. 



DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRUBS. 89 

Some of the species are evergreen and of prostrate 
growth, very suitable for edgings and rock-work, but 
rather tender. Of these the Box-leaved Cotoneaster (C. 
buxifolia) is very dwarf, producing white flowers ; and 
the Small-leaved Cotoneaster (C. microphylla) with at- 
tractive dark-green leaves. 

ST. John's wort. Hypericum. G. 

Pretty, low shrubs, flowering in July and later, and 
have the merit of succeeding well in the shade and under 
the drip of trees. 

Kalm's Hypericum (H. Kalmianum) is a fine, low 
shrub, with small, oblanceolate leaves, and bright yellow 
flowers. Shrubby Hypericum (H. prolificum), varying 
but slightly from the above, having clusters of larger 
flowers. H. calycinum is of trailing habit, with yellow 
flowers. H. patulum is a Japanese species, said to be at- 
tractive. 

the styrax. Styrax. G. 

The Japan" Styrax (S. Japonica) is a low-growing 
shrub of picturesque sppearance, with small, Dogwood- 
like leaves, and white, bell-shaped flowers. Hardy as 
far north as New York City. 

the exochorda. Uxochorda grandiflora. G. 

This is a beautiful, hardy shrub from China, closely 
related to the Spirseas, but distinct from them in habit 
and appearance. The leaves are a tender-green in color, 
and the flowers pure white, opening in May. 

spiraea. Spircea. E. -H. 

A genus containing many species, among which, and 
their varieties, are a number of fine, ornamental shrubs. 
Only the most valuable kinds are here noticed. 



90 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

Reeves' Spiraea (8. Reevesiana, S. lanceoJata of some), 
is one of the best flowering shrubs in cultivation. It has 
a graceful, slightly drooping habit, and narrow, pointed 
leaves of good color. The plant in June is covered with 
clusters of pure-white flowers, making it highly attrac- 
tive, H. 

Fortune's Spiraea (8. callesa). It was at one time 
supposed that this, 8. callosa, and 8. Fortunei were the 
same, but they are now regarded as distinct. Fortune's 
name has become in the catalogues well fixed to this 
plant, though it really belongs to 8. Fortunei. All con- 
fusion may be avoided by the use of the scientific name, 
8. callosa. It is a fine species, bearing large corymbs of 
rose-colored flowers for a long time. There is a white- 
flowered variety which is more dwarf, and flowers at in- 
tervals all through the season, H. 

Douglas's Spiraea (8. Douglasii. S. Menziesii, and 
S. Eximia of the catalogues, are at most varieties of 
this). A fine species of upright habit, with long panicles 
of rose-colored flowers in June, G. 

Plum-leaved Spiraea, Double, (8. prunifolia,fl. pi), 
a highly esteemed shrub from Japan, densely covered in 
spring with double-white, daisy-like flowers. Its fine, 
glossy leaves assume brilliant tints in autumn, G. 

Thunberg's Spir.ea (S. Thuribergii), a distinct and 
remarkably fine species of picturesque habit. The 
delicate, very narrow leaves, are of a tender green color, 
which in autumn change to reddish shades. Produces 
an abundance of white flowers in May, H. 

Golden-leaved Spiraea (a variety of 8. opulifolia, 
as it was formerly called, but the species is now placed 
in the genus Neillia). A robust variety of the well- 
known Nine-bark ; the-foliage has a yellow tinge espec- 
ially early in the season, E. 

Billard's Spiraea (#. salicifolia, var. Billardi), a 



DECIDUOUS TEEES AJND SHEUBS. 91 

golden variety of our well-known Meadow-sweet, with 
very showy, pink flowers all summer, F. 

Mountain Ash-leaved Spie^a (S. sorbifolia) a 
vigorous species, with large, light-green, pinnate leaves, 
and immense, plume-like panicles of white flowers, very 
ornamental in the bud. Early summer, E. Other species 
of Spiraea are given under Herbaceous Plants. 

the eose. Rosa. G-H. 

It is impossible within the limits of the present work, 
to touch very fully on the Rose, for it is a subject that 
might well occupy an entire book. As there are a number 
of excellent works devoted exclusively to Eose culture, 
the necessary information respecting kinds and culture is 
easily found. Still I present some notes on the various 
classes of Eoses in cultivation, and also throughout the 
book give such brief hints on culture and other points, 
as may be useful to amateurs. 

It may be remarked, that provided the soil is sufficient- 
ly well drained to be free from standing water, almost 
any garden soil, with good preparation, (see Part IV), 
will answer for Eoses. All budded roses should, in plant- 
ing, be set so deep that the junction of the stock 
and the rose will be two or three inches below the sur- 
face of the soil, so that the root may give the least 
amount of trouble from sprouting. The Tree Eoses, 
which are so popular in Europe, are comparatively 
worthless in America, owing to the bad effects of our hot 
summers on the long stem. 

' As to insects, "these are the bugbears," as Mr. H. B. 
Ellwanger, a leading American authority on the Eose, 
says, " which prevent many from cultivating the Queen 
of Flowers, but they offer little discouragement to loyal 
subjects, for generally it is only the careless and indolent 
who suffer from these pests." In Part V of this book 
directions are given for destroying insects on Eoses. 



$2 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

The Hybrid Perpetual, or Hybrid Remontant 
Roses (R. Damascene/). These are, all things consider- 
ed, the most desirable class of hardy Roses for garden 
culture. The plants are, as a rule, when fairly treated, 
vigorous in habit, and producing flowers, that for perfect 
form, fragrance, handsome and brilliant colors are un- 
equalled. Although the name would indicate that they 
are perpetual bloomers, this is not strictly the case. All 
bloom profusely in June, and some of the more prolific 
ones yield a scattering crop of flowers later in the season, 
with an increase in the autumn. Although quite hardy, 
it is best to protect with straw in the winter. They 
should be planted in a rich soil. Of this class, there 
are more than one thousand named varieties now in ex- 
istence. 

The Moss Roses (R. centifolia muscosa), a well-known 
and much esteemed class, which receive their name from 
the delicate, mossy growth, that appears on the calyx or 
flower-cup. The flowers are most prized when in the 
bud state, but some of the kinds are very attractive 
when open. The so-called Perpetual Moss Roses, are as 
a class inferior, with the perpetual quality lacking. All 
delight in liberal culture. 

The Yellow, or Austrian Roses (R. lutea), are a dis- 
tinct and attractive class, numbering but few varieties. 
These are usually budded on the stock of some strong 
growing kinds. 

The Common June, or Summer Roses, a class of 
hardy Roses, which yield an abundant crop of flowers in 
many colors in June. Some of the best White Roses 
come under this head. As a rule, these produce flowers 
under circumstances that would be unfavorable to other 
kinds; still they will repay good treatment in the matter 
of soil and cultivation. 

The Climbing Roses. There are a number of differ- 



DECIDUOUS TREES AND SHRCBS. 93 

ent species of these, which possess a well-known value 
for covering walls, trellises, etc. The Prairie Koses (E. 
ruMfolia), are the most valuable class of climbers, and, 
unlike most others, are perfectly hardy in the Northern 
States. 

The Bourbon Eoses (E. Bourboniana) belong to 
the half-hardy division of the so-called Monthly Eoses ; 
being the hardiest class of these, and usually living 
through the winter with slight protection, in all but the 
more northern parts of the country, if growing on dry 
soil. Of vigorous growth, rich, luxuriant foliage, and 
large, well-shaped, fragrant flowers of good colors, and 
produced in clusters nearly all summer. 

The Hybrid Tea Eoses (E. Inclica odoratahylrida). 
These are hybrids between the tender. Tea Eoses and the 
Hybrid Perpetuals, which have only lately been brought 
out. Originating from such sources, much is to be ex- 
pected from them, and so far the flowers have certainly 
proved very fine, while in hardiness it is believed they 
may equal the Bourbons, or perhaps the more tender Hy- 
brid Perpetuals. 

The Hybrid Noisette Eoses (E. Noisettiana liy- 
hrida), mostly crosses between Eemontant, Bourbon, and 
Noisette Eoses, and of the same general hardiness as the 
Bourbons. The flowers are mostly white, or tinted, of 
small size but good form, and very freely produced in 
quickly succeeding crops throughout the growing season. 

The Bengal, or China Eoses (E. Indica), a class 
of free Summer- flowering or Monthly Eoses, with small, 
bright-colored flowers and buds, which show up brilliant- 
ly as seen from a distance, as well as near by. The 
flowers are usually semi-double to double. Eequire pro- 
tection in the North. 

The Tea Eoses (E. Indica odorata). These are more 
tender than any of the previously named classes, and can- 



94 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

not be depended upon for keeping over winter in the 
Northern States, no matter how well protected. But the 
plants maybe potted and housed in the green-house, or a 
cold pit at the approach of winter, and then be set out 
again in the next spring with good results. The Teas 
are in many respects the most delightful of all Roses, 
and it is well worth while to be at some trouble in thus 
keeping them over. They are almost perpetually in 
bloom when in a growing condition. 

THE BRAMBLE. RubuS. H. 

Clumps of Bramble-bushes, while they might seem 
out of place in small grounds where everything intro- 
duced s"hould be of the choicest kind, still they look 
very well in the Wild Garden, with their free wild habits 
and really attractive flowers. 

The Purple Bramble (R. odoratus), also called 
Flowering Raspberry, forms a clump of vigorous canes, 
which produce showy, fragrant flowers of a rich purple 
color for a long time in summer, H. 

The White Bramble (R. Nuthanus) has coarse, 
toothed leaves, and fewer flowers than the above ; the 
petals are narrow and white, H. 

The Double Blackberry (R. fruticosus) has curi- 
ous, fine, double flowers, or masses of narrow petals. 
The Cut, or Parsley-leaved Bramble (var. laciniatus), ie 
of low trailing habit, and produces palatable fruit. R. 
cratcegifolius is of robust erect habit, with large leaves 
of a deep-green color, turning to a dark-red in autumn. 

the azalea. Azalea. G-H. 

The Native Azaleas are attractive shrubs, producing 
umbelled clusters of showy flowers ; they are most effec- 
tive in ihe garden when planted in clumps. These plants 



DECIDUOUS TEEES AND SHEUBS. 95 

are much prized abroad, being especially very common in 
English and Dutch gardens. They require a soil con- 
taining a good share of leaf mould or muck, and do not 
object to partial shade. Some of the foreign varieties 
are only half-hardy. 

Of natives, all of which flower early in the season, the 

Smooth Azalea (A. arborea) has thickish leaves, 
and sweet, white and rose-colored flowers, H. G. 

The Clammy or Swamp Azalea (A. viscosa), also 
called White Swamp Honeysuckle, has rich, green foliage, 
and rose-tinted flowers. There is a variation of the 
common type with paler, often whitish green leaves, and 
a dwarfish growth, H. 

The Pueple Azalea, or Pinxteb Flowee (A. nudi- 
flora), is of dwarf habit, with showy flowers, varying 
from flesh -color to pink and purple, H. 

The Flame-coloeed Azalea (A. calendulacea) has 
large, changeable, orange-colored blossoms, IT. 

A. mollis, and A. Pontica, are Asiatic species, the for- 
mer with numerous varieties, and yielding large, showy 
flowers, and the latter with yellow flowers. These need 
thorough protection in the North in winter. The Bel- 
gian or Ghent Azaleas are a beautiful class of hybrids, 
between A. Pontica and the American species. There 
are a multitude of handsome varieties, mostly in the line 
of yellow, orange, scarlet, crimson, rose, pink, and 
white colors, and some are fragrant. This class are near- 
ly hardy in the North. 

the deutzia. Deutzia. G-H. 

The Deutzias are valuable low shrubs from Japan, that 
are universally esteemed for their hardiness, good forms, 
and free-flowering habits, producing a great profusion of 
delicately- formed, white, or tinted flowers in June. 

The Geaceful, or Slestdee Deutzia (D. gracilis), 



96 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

is of low, compact growth, with pure white flowers; may 
be sheared to a perfect globe, H. There is a variegated 
form of this that possesses but little value. 

The Crenate-leaved Deutzia (D. crenata) is of 
stronger growth than the last named species, with white 
flowers tinged with pink, H. The Double-flowering 
Deutzia (var. flore pleno), a variety of the last, with 
handsome double-white flowers tinged with pink, in ra- 
cemes four or five inches long, and coming in bloom 
somewhat late, H. There are several other varieties of 
this valuable species, var. flore albo pleno, with pure 
white, double flowers; var. purpureo pleno, with double, 
purple-tinged flowers ; the variety, Pride of Rochester, 
has larger and more double white flowers than the com- 
mon double. 

The Rough-leaved Deutzia (D. scabra) is the 
strongest grower of the genus, with pure white flowers 
freely produced. It is much less common than D. cre- 
nata, which is often sent out for it, G. There are some 
others, but they vary little from those described. 

THE SNOWBERRY, OR WAXBERRY. SljmpllOricarpus. G-H. 

The Snowberry, or the White-fruited Waxberry (S. 
racemosus), is a well-known shrub of good quality, but 
valued chiefly for the snow-white waxy berries it bears in 
the latter part of the season. 

The Red-fruited Waxberry, or Indian Currant 
(S. vulgaris), is a handsomer shrub than the last, with 
gracefully curving branches, small, round leaves, but 
with inconspicuous reddish fruit. There is a pleasing 
Variegated-leaved Waxberry, a form of the last, with 
golden mottled foliage, rendering the plant very effective 
for contrasting with other shrubs, H. 



DECIDUOUS TEEES AND SHEUBS. 97 

THE JAPAN GLOBE-FLOWEE, OE COECHOEUS. Kerria. H. 

Very desirable small shrubs of compact growth, if oc- 
casionally pruned. The Japan Corchorns (K. Japonica) 
is a slender green-branched shrub, with pointed leaves 
and globular, double, yellow flowers. The Silver-leaved 
Corchorns (var. foliis variegatis) is a handsome, low, 
variegated-leaved shrub, of excellent quality, and pro- 
ducing a fine effect when planted to contrast with other 
shrubs. 

the andeomeda. Andromeda. H. 

A genus of deciduous and evergreen native shrubs, 
seldom seen in our gardens, but highly esteemed in Euro- 
pean collections of "American Plants." By using some 
muck in the soil — aiming to imitate the soils of their 
natural habitats — they may be made to thrive very suc- 
cessfully almost anywhere. 

A. Mariana, known as the Stagger-Bush, has glossy 
oval leaves, and nodding clusters of white flowers; grows 
wild in sandy, low places. 

The Feee-blooming Axdeomeda (A. floribunda), 
and the Marsh Andromeda (A. polifolia) are evergreen 
species, but differing greatly. The former is a very leafy 
and charming evergreen shrub, bearing an abundance of 
white flowers, G-H '; the latter a very small bush, rarely 
exceeding a foot and a half in hight, with thick linear 
leaves, white beneath. Both are hardy. 

Catesby's Andeomeda, botanically separated from 
Andromeda, and now Leucotlioe Catesbm, is also ever- 
green, with long, recurving branches, ovate-lanceolate 
leaves and white flowers. 

The Leathee-leaf (Cassandra calyculata) is closely 
related to the Andromedas, and still classed with them 
by some. It is a small branching shrub, with dusty- 
5 



98 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

looking, oblong leaves, and pretty, white flowers in a 
one-sided cluster, H. 

the daphne. Daphne. H. 

The Mezeron {Daphne Mezerum) is the earliest flow- 
ering of all our shrubs ; of pleasing growth ; with 
many small, fragrant, pinkish flowers. There is a White- 
flowering, and also a Purple-leaved variety of this, the 
latter with showy foliage. 

The Garland Flower {Daphne Cneorum) is an ever- 
green species, a native of the mountains of Switzerland, 
of dwarf trailing habit, adapted to use on rock-work ; 
light crimson flowers early in the spring ; requires pro- 
tection in winter at the North in severe localities. 

the shrubby cixquefoil. Potentilla fruticosa. H. 

A much branching, low shrub, with small, pinnate 
leaves, the leaflets closely crowded, which give the plant 
a singular appearance. Flowers bright-yellow, produced 
freely in summer. 

the bayberry or wax myrtle. Myrica cerifera. H. 

A native shrub, of low, irregular growth, and dark, 
shining green, slightly notched, very fragrant leaves, 
which are almost evergreen. Grows best in moist places. 



EVERGREEN TREES AND SHRUBS. 99 

CHAPTEE VII. 
EVERGREEN TREES AND SHRUBS. 

Under this head are embraced the conifers or cone- 
bearing, and other trees and shrubs that hold the leaves 
over winter. The conifers, as a rule, will thrive in any 
well-drained, loamy soil, that is moderately rich, but they 
mostly prefer a light one that is porous and open. If 
the more delicate and half-hardy species cannot be given 
SU2I1 soil, it is scarcely worth while to plant them, for 
in any other, the growth will not be completed early 
enough in the season to ensure the proper ripening of 
the wood to enable them to endure the winter. A few 
evergreen shrubs have been described under Thorn, 
Cotoneaster, Daphne, Andromeda, and Winterberry, 
with the deciduous species of the same genera. 

THE PINE. Pinus. A.-E. 

Many of the Pines, in their numerous species and 
varieties, are unsurpassed in beauty for ornamental 
planting, being especially effective in masses, while most 
of them are hardy. Being somewhat difficult to trans- 
plant, a preference should always be given, if possible, 
to trees that have been root-pruned in the nurseries 
where they were grown. 

Of those Pines that have two leaves in a sheath, the 
following, among large growers, are considered the best : 

The Austrian or Black Pine (P. Austriaca), of 
robust, spreading habit and luxuriant growth, with long, 
dark-green, leaves, A. 

The Corsican Pine (P. Laricio), a distinct, hand- 
some grower, with long, dark-green, twisted leaves ; gen- 
erally hardy, A. 



100 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

Tatjrian Pine (P. Pallasiana), of roundish, compact 
form, with bluish-green leaves; generally hardy, A. 

Cluster Pine (P. Pinaster), a beautiful species, with 
the leaves in dense whorls ; not reliable in the Northern 
States, succeeds well near the sea, A. 

Pyrenean Pine (P. Pyrenaica), a beautiful, hardy 
species, with long, soft leaves ; of picturesque spreading 
growth, A. 

Scotch Pine (P. sylvestris), very hardy, of rapid 
growth in any soil, making it valuable for screens; short, 
rigid, light-green leaves, A. 

Highland Pine (var. horizontalis), a variety of the 
Scotch Pine, with the branches more horizontal, and 
with broader leaves, covered with bloom. 

Short-leaved Yellow Pine (P. mitis), a handsome 
native, forming a fine specimen tree, with slender leaves 
often of a bright, bluish-green color. 

Of dwarf sorts, with two leaves in a sheath, may be 
named the 

Mugho Pine (P. Muglio), a superior species for small 
grounds, with handsome, short, stiff, dark-green foliage, 
E.; var. compacta is a very symmetrical compact variety 
of this ; var. rotunda is another variety of more rounded 
habit than the parent. 

Dwarf or Mountain Pine (P. piimilio), of small, 
often bushy, or creeping habit, Avith silvery-green foli- 
age, G. 

Table Mountain Pine (P. pungens), a handsome, 
hardy species, with rigid, stout, pale-green leaves, and 
producing many cones in masses. 

The species of Pine witli three leaves in a sheath 
usually become large trees in time. 

Bentham's Pine (P. Benthamiana), a handsome, 
rapid grower, with long, dark-green, slender, drooping 
leaves, A. 



EVERGREEN TREES AND SHRUBS. 101 

The Heavy- wooded Pine (P.ponderosa), with leaves 
almost as long as the last, but more erect and of a sil- 
very-green color ; an attractive and imposing tree, A. 

The Jeffrey's Pine (P. Jeffreyii) is a vigorous, tall 
species, with long, deep, bluish-green leaves, A. 

Sabine's Pine (P. Sabiniana) is a majestic tree, 
valuable as a single specimen, with long, twisted, droop- 
ing leaves of a silvery-gray color, A. 

The Pitch Pine (P. rigida) is a tall tree, with rigid, 
dark-green foliage and dark bark, B. 

Of Pines with five leaves in a sheath, those immediate- 
ly following are tall, aud the others dwarfish. 

The "White or Weymouth Pine (P. Strobus), the 
most ornamental of all our native Pines, and especially 
valuable on account of bearing the shears well ; of quiet 
grandeur, with light, glistening, silvery-green foliage, 
flourishes in any soil, A. D. The Compact White Pine 
(P. Strobus compacta), a valuable dwarf, forming a 
rounded head of light-green foliage, excellent for mass- 
ing, 0. Silver-white Pine (var. alba, syn. nivea), a 
handsome dwarf variety of the White Pine, with shorter 
leaves, silvery-white when young, changing to dark- 
green. 

California Mountain Pine (P. monticola) resem- 
bles the last somewhat, but the leaves are slightly shorter 
and obtuse, of a glaucous green. 

Lambert's Pine (P. Lambertiana) , a large tree, with 
stiff, yellowish-green leaves four to six inches long. 

Lofty Bhotan Pine (P. excelsa), a hardy, vigorous 
species from India, resembling the White Pine, but with 
larger and more pendulous foliage ; sometimes affected 
by our hot suns, A. 

There are several desirable varieties given in the nur- 
sery catalogues. 



102 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

The Swiss-stone Pine (P. Cembra) is a handsome, 
slow-growing, cone-shaped tree, with dense and remark- 
bly dark-green foliage, G. Var. pygmcea is a desirable 
little dwarf, with very short leaves, H. 

There are many other Pines, including some from 
Japan, but the above lists, it is believed, embrace about 
all that are desirable for general culture. 

THE SPRUCE, HEMLOCK, AND FIR. AUeS. A. H. 

The trees known by these names are all now classed 
under the one genus, Abies. All things considered, they 
are together the most valuable genus of ornamental ever- 
greens for the American climate. Mostly of rapid 
growth, handsome forms, and excellent colors, they 
thrive in almost any place and soil, and are well adapted 
for growing either as single specimens, in masses, or in 
hedges. Of the Spruce section the 

Norway Spruce (^4. excelsa) is the best known 
species, being an elegant tree of great hardiness, and free 
growth ; at fifteen or twenty feet in hight the branches 
droop gracefully, but the tree assumes a somewhat coarse 
appearance at such an age, which, while appearing to 
good effect in large areas, is not so pleasing in small 
grounds, and this may be prevented by controlling the 
growth to a much smaller hight by clipping ; it is one 
of the best hedge plants known, A. Of this species 
there are many valuable varieties, embracing, among 
others, the following : Barry's Spruce (var. Bar ryii), ele- 
gant, and smaller growing than the parent form. Fine- 
don Hall Spruce (var. Finedonemis), compact, with 
yellow-tinged leaves on the upper sides of the shoots. 
Inverted-branched Spruce (var. inverta), very desirable, 
with large, bright foliage and weeping branches. Pyra- 
midal Spruce (var. jjyra?nidalis), of a symmetrical pyra- 
midal form, without pruning. ClanbrasiPs Dwarf Spruce 



EVEBGBEES" TBEES AND SHEUBS. 103 

(var. Clanbrasiliana), very dwarf and symmetrical, with 
small foliage, one of the most valuable of the very small 
Spruces. Ellwangers Dwarf Spruce (var. Ellivangeriana), 
a distinct and valuable variety ; the leaves project in a 
bristle-like manner. Gregory's Dwarf Spruce (var. Greg- 
oriana), hemispherical, very dense, an excellent small 
dwarf. Maxwell's Dwarf Spruce (var. Maxwellia?ia), 
dwarf, compact and regular, forms a dense, hemispheri- 
cal mass. Small-formed Spruce (var. parviformis), 
small and distinct. Conical Spruce (var. conica), dense, 
conical-form ; valuable. Pigmy Dwarf Spruce (var. 
pygmcea), the clwarfest form of the Spruces. The var. 
tortuosa compacta is of dwarf, spreading habit, with the 
young branches curiously twisted. 

The White Spbuce [A. alba) is another species of 
compact growth, with light-colored bark, and foliage of 
a light glaucous green, B. There are several varie- 
ties embracing the Glaucous Spruce (var. cmrulea), a 
small and beautiful tree, with bluish-green foliage, and 
spreading habit. Dwarf White Spruce (var. nana), of 
small, compact form, but resembling the species in other 
respects. 

The Black Spbuce {A. nigra) is a native species, of 
no high merit for ornament. The Dwarf Black Spruce 
(var. pumila) is a fine dwarf variety, forming a cushion 
or ball of small, dark-green foliage, H. Doumet's Spruce 
(Doameti) is another handsome dwarf variety, of com- 
pact growth and bluish leaves. 

Alcock's Spbuce (A. Alcoquiana) is a distinct species 
from Japan, not thoroughly tested yet, but promising 
well ; deep-green, glaucous leaves. 

Menzies' Spbuce or Colobado Blue Spbuce {A. 
Menziedi), one of the hardiest and most beautiful species, 
until it attains to about thirty feet in hight ; compact, 
with broad, sharply-pointed, bright, bluish-gray leaves, .4. 



104 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

Douglas' Spruce (A. Douglasii), of pyramidal habit, 
and in foliage resembling the Hemlock ; said to improve 
with age for generations, A. 

Himalayan or Smith's Spruce {A. SmWiiana), var- 
iable as to hardiness in the Northern States, habit sin- 
gularly graceful, and with light-green, glaucous foliage. 
Obovate-coned Spruce {A. obovata), resembles the Norway 
Spruce, but slower growing and more slender. Oriental 
or Eastern Spruce {A. orientalis) somewhat resembling 
the last, and remarkable for its graceful habit ; needs 
protection in northern localities while young. Abies 
polita, from Japan, is a very handsome tree of erect 
habit, with sharply-pointed, bright-green leaves. 

In the Hemlock section of this genus are a number of 
valuable ornamental sorts. 

The Hemlock Spruce (A. Canadensis) is a well- 
known native species, of excellent quality for the lawn, 
and as a hedge plant. The drooping branches give the 
tree a graceful appearance. Foliage delicate and dark, 
like that of the Yew ; delights in deep, moist loam, 
and does not object to some shade, B. Of varieties of 
the above there are the Dwarf Hemlock Spruce (var. 
nana), forming a compact, conical bush ; the Dense 
Hemlock Spruce (var. densa), of handsome, dwarf, 
dense form; Sargent's Weeping Hemlock (var. Sargcntii), 
a dense, irregularly, weeping form, with graceful, spray- 
like branches, like an evergreen fountain ; remarkably 
handsome and hardy ; the Small-leaved Hemlock Spruce 
(var. micropliylla), a slow grower, compact, picturesque, 
and full of deep shadows ; heavy, dark-green leaves. 
There are several other varieties of no marked merit. 

Among the Firs arc many fine ornamental trees. 

The Balsam Fir [A. balsamea) is a well-known 
species of most handsome appearance while young, with 
dark-green foliage. 



EVERGREEN TREES AND SHRUBS. 105 

Nordmann's Silver Fir (A. Nordmanniana), an ex- 
ceedingly handsome and stately tree, with massive, shiny, 
dark-green verdure, the under sides of the leaves slight- 
ly glaucous. Hardy in Buffalo, A. 

Noble Fir (A. nobilis), a noble tree of symmetrical 
growth, and regular, spreading branches ; foliage of a 
rich, glaucous green on both sides. Hardy at Philadel- 
phia, A. 

The Great Silver Fir (A. grandis), of lofty pyra- 
midal form, and dark-green leaves, A. 

Cephalonian Silver Fir {A. Ceplialonica), a beauti- 
ful, vigorous species, hroad for its hight, when young; 
leaves silvery and dagger-shaped ; of doubtful hardiness 
in the Northern States. 

Siberian" Silver Fir (A. Piclita) is a handsome, 
hardy, medium-sized tree of conical growth, and dense, 
dark-green foliage, B. 

Cilician Silver Fir {A. Cilicica), of compact growth, 
and dark foliage. 

Hudson's Bay Dwarf Fir (A. Fraseri, var. Hudso- 
nica), a very dwarf and hardy species, with the leaves of a 
charming dark-green, and glaucous underneath, valuable 
for rock- work, H. 

The following named Firs are also desirable for orna- 
ment. Lovely Silver Fir (A. amabilis), with bushy 
branches and dark-green leaves, silvery beneath, A; Pin- 
sapo Fir {A. Pinsapo), of handsome, compact growth, 
with deep, shining green, very pointed leaves; not hardy 
in the North. The European Silver Fir {A. pectinata) 
is a fine species, with spreading, horizontal branches, and 
broad silvery foliage, somewhat tender in the North. 
The Dwarf Silver Fir (var. compacta), and the Weeping 
Silver Fir (var. pendula), both varieties of the European, 
are handsome trees, but rather tender in the North. 



106 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

the cypress. Cupressus. A. 

A genus not generally hardy north of Philadelphia, 
but of great value wherever they stand the winters. 
They may be tried, however, throughout the North on 
high, dry spots, with some hopes of success with them. 

Lawson's Cypress (C. Lawsoniana) is of rapid 
growth and delicate beauty, with drooping branches and 
slender branchlets, that look like glaucous-green plumes, 
A. Pyramidal Lawson's Cypress (var. pyramidalis), a 
variety more heavily furnished with foliage, and more 
erect than the above, A. Upright Lawson's Cypress 
(var. erecta), of very erect, dense habit of growth. 
Weeping Lawson's Cypress (var. pendula), of graceful, 
drooping habit, and shining, silvery foliage. Silver 
Lawson's Cypress (var. argentea), a handsome, compact 
grower, with glaucous leaves, slightly drooping. Vari- 
egated-leaved Lawson's Cypress (var. variegata), foliage 
dotted and blotched with golden yellow; should have 
partial shade. 

The Nootka Sound Cypress (C. Nutlcaensis) ; by 
some classed as Thujopsis borealis, is the hardiest of the 
genus; a free pyramidal grower, with light, glossy foliage. 

The White Cedar (C. thyoides) is a hardy native 
species, forming a fair lawn tree, and useful for hedges; 
has fine, glaucous-green foliage. There are several varieties 
of this ; the Dwarf White Cedar (var. nana) is of dimin- 
utive form, and the Variegated White Cedar (var. vari- 
egata) has branches of a green and golden color. 

the cedar. Cedrus. A. 

The true Cedars, of which the Cedar of Lebanon, 
mentioned in Sacred History, is a representative, are all 
too tender to be thoroughly reliable in the Northern 
States, 'but form noble trees south of Philadelphia. 



EVERGREEN TREES AND SHRUBS. 107 

Sometimes, however, they succeed in favorable situations 
north of this. What are known commonly as the Red 
Cedar and White Cedar do not belong to the germsCedrus. 

The Cedar of Lebanon" (0. Libani) is a grand, 
spreading tree, with massive, dark-green foliage. Al- 
though tender when young, its hardiness increases with 
age, A. 

Mount Atlas Cedar (C. Atlaniica) is of pyramidal 
form, with light, silvery foliage, and is quite hardy. 

Deodar or Indian Cedar (C. Deodara) is a charm- 
ing evergreen of pyramidal form, but with graceful 
drooping branches, and glaucous green foliage. A fine 
tree for the Southern States. 

The Japan Cedar {Cryptomeria Japonica), belong- 
ing to another genus, is a beautiful conifer, only suitable 
for culture at Baltimore and southward, B. 

The California White Cedar (Libocedrus decur- 
rens) is also of a distinct genus. It is from California, 
and too tender for general culture in the North, but one 
of the finest evergreens for the South, B. 

the arbor vit.es and retinisporas. Thuja and Biota. 

A-G. 

The members of the two genera, Thuja and Biota, are 
both popularly known by the name of Arbor Vitse. The 
Eetinisporas, formerly classed as a distinct genus, have 
been added to Thuja, as they are not botanically distinct. 
As they were introduced as Retinisporas, and are under 
that name in all the catalogues, it is convenient to retain 
it as a garden name. 

American Arbor Vit,e {Thuja occidentalis), also 
called in some localities White Cedar, is a perfectly hardy 
tree, of rapid growth under favorable conditions, assum- 
ing a conical form, but possessing less beauty than some 
of its varieties, owing to the tame color of its foliage; 



108 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

valuable for screens and hedges. Among its varieties, 
the Siberian Arbor Vitas (var. Sibirica. svn. Warreana), 
is one of the best, and scarcely excelled as a fine ever- 
green; very hardy, of conical growth, with dark-green 
foliage, C; Nee's Plicate Arbor Vitae (var. plicata) re- 
sembles the last, but the branches are so disposed in 
pairs, as to give the spray a massive plaited and twisted 
look; hardy and excellent, C; Upright Arbor Vitas (var. 
pij rami tied is), remarkably erect and compact, dark-green, 
and almost as conspicuous as an Irish Yew, Cj Weeping 
Arbor Vitae (var. pendula), of handsome, rapid growth, 
the branches drooping gracefully. Buist's Arbor Vita? 
(var. cristata) resembles the last somewhat; with dense, 
short, twisted foliage, of a very dark-green color. 

There are many varieties of the American Arbor Vitae, 
with golden and silvery-hued foliage, making them de- 
sirable for creating contrasts with trees of other colors, 
and also numerous sorts of distinctly dwarf habit, 
highly esteemed for massing and lines in small gardens, 
some of which are also of the golden-leaved type. 
Among these, the following may be named as representa- 
tive varieties and some of the best. Geo. Peabody's 
Arbor Vitae (var. aurea), of small size, with the foliage 
of a bright golden color, which is retained throughout 
the summer; H ; Burrow's Arbor Vitas (var. Burrowii), 
of very fine habit with golden-yellow foliage; Parsons' 
Arbor Vitae (var. compacta), of globular form, yellowish- 
green foliage, H ; Hovey's Arbor Vitae (var. Hoveyi), 
compact and globular, with bright, yellowish-green foli- 
age; one of the best, H. Vervaene's Arbor Vitas (var. 
Vervceneana) , a distinct and handsome yellow-marked 
variety. Queen Victoria's Arbor Vitas (var. alba), with 
silver-tipped foliage. Dwarf Dense Arbor Vitas (var. 
conica densa), dark-green, compact, and handsome in 
outline. Heath-leaved Arbor Vitas (var. ericoides), linear, 
sharp-pointed leaves ; very dense, H. Globe-headed 



EVERGREEN TREES AND SHRUBS. 109 

Arbor Vitas (var. globosa), dense, and globular, H. Hack- 
er's Arbor Vita? (var. Hacherii), of dwarf habit, with 
very dark foliage, H. Hoopes' Dwarf Arbor Vitas (var. 
nana), of conical form, and very compact in its growth, 
H. Dwarf Bound-headed Arbor Vitas (var. rotundata), 
very dwarf ; deep green, with a crested appearance, H. 
The variety Tom Thumb is a miniature variety, of slow 
growth, with sharp-pointed, dark-green leaves, valuable 
for bold edgings or low hedge, H. 

The Eetinisporas, or Japanese Arbor Vitje, also 
known as the Japan Cypress, are among the handsomest 
and most easily grown evergreens in cultivation. Some 
of them are rather tender, but the hardier ones will 
thrive over nearly the entire country, and possess such 
positive excellence, as to be worthy of frequent use. 

The Plume-like Eetinispora (T. Plumosa) is one 
of the hardiest species ; a rapid grower, with pretty, 
small, bright-green leaves, and short, slender branches, 
G. There are several varieties of this. The Silver-spot- 
ted Eetinispora (var. argentea) has the young shoots 
sprinkled with silvery white. The Golden-tipped Eetin- 
ispora (var. aurea) has a bright golden hue at the ends 
of the branches; one of the hardiest, H. 

The Obtuse-leaved Eetinispora (T. obtusa) is of 
remarkable beauty, and one of the hardiest ; leaves 
glossy-green above and silvery- white beneath, A. 

The Pea-fruited Eetinispora (T. pisifera) is of 
small size and slender habit, with sharp-pointed, green 
leaves. There are several dwarf varieties of this last 
named species. 

The Thread-branched Eetinispora (var. filifera), 
of elegant pyramidal form, with the ends of the shoots 
drooping gracefully; bright-green foliage. The Golden 
Thread-branched Eetinispora (var. aurea), with the 
branches of a beautiful golden color. The Heath-like 



110 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

Eetinispora (var. ericoides) is a compact, cone-shaped 
bush, the leaves of which turn to a violet-red in winter. 
The Squarrose Eetinispora (E. squarrosa) is round- 
headed and bushy in its style of growth, with light, 
bluish-green foliage. R. leptoclada is of a bright, glau- 
cous-green color ; hardy in England, but perhaps not 
reliable in this country. 

The Chinese or Eastern Arbor Vit.e (Biota) 
are, as a class, too tender for the northern parts of our 
country, unless, as sometimes happens, they may find a 
place that is well sheltered, or otherwise favorable to 
them. The species (B. orientalis) is of erect growth, 
with flat, light-green foliage. Of its varieties, the 
Golden Chinese Arbor Vitas (var. aurea) is an excellent 
sort, of globular form and bright, golden-tinged foliage. 
Kollinson's Golden Chinese Arbor Vitae (var. elegant is- 
sima), of pyramidal form, and golden-hued foliage. 
Golden Arbor Vitae (var. semper aurea), a dwarf variety, 
of fine growth, with the golden tint remaining constant 
throughout the year. There is also a weeping variety 
(var. filiformis pendula), and some others. 

the junipers. Juniperus. B to trailing. 

The Junipers are a beautiful and reliable class of hardy 
evergreens, and of such a range of adaptability, as in- 
fluenced by size and habit in the different species and 
varieties, that nearly every garden can employ some of 
them to great advantage. Among the smaller-growing 
species may be named : 

The Common Juniper (J. communis), with its 
varieties. The common one is a well-known native of 
America, Europe, and Asia, assuming a variety of forms. 
but generally pyramidal, and with some attention to 
shearing, makes a handsome specimen, E. The Canadian 
Trailing Juniper (var. alpina, syn. J. Canadensis) is of 
dense, spreading habit, with silvery- hued foliage; fine 



EVERGREEN" TREES AND SHRUBS. Ill 

for rockwork. The Dwarf Juniper (var. alpina nana) is 
a sort that does not grow over a foot high, and spread- 
ing. The American Pyramidal Juniper (var. alpina pyra- 
midalis) is a distinct form of the common species of up- 
right habit. Polish Juniper (var. Cracovica), a robust, 
erect grower, with yellowish-green foliage. The Irish . 
Juniper (var. Hibernica), a compact, free-growing variety 
of great popularity; the growth is upright and formal, 
producing a fine columnar effect, E. Eobust Irish Juniper 
(var. Hibernica robusta) is more vigorous, but less dense 
than the Irish. Swedish Juniper (var. Suecica), of pyra- 
midial form with yellowish-green foliage. 

The Savin Juniper (J. Sabina) is another well-known 
low-growing species, with wide-spreading, sombre, thick- 
ly clothed branches; thrives in the poorest soil; admirable 
for hillsides and rockwork, and also bears the shears 
well, H. The Tamarisk-leaved Savin (var. tamariscifolia) 
is a distinct and handsome variety of the last, H. The 
Cypress-leaved Savin (var. cupressifolia) is another va- 
riety with light-green, and sometimes silvery-glaucous 
leaves. The Variegated-leaved Savin (var.variegata) shows 
some distinct white and pale-yellow markings on the 
leaves ; less vigorous than the species. Var. alpina is a 
low trailer in habit and quite distinct. 

The Eed Cedar (J". Virginiana), with its varieties, 
are Junipers of great hardiness and indispensable in all 
good collections of considerable extent; the parent form 
is a well-known native, with bright-green, compact foli- 
age, C-D. 

Silvery, or Cray-leaved Eed Cedar (var. glauca), 
is a handsome, free-growing variety, with silvery foliage, 
that contrasts well with other evergreens, E. Weeping 
Eed Cedar (var. pendula) is a variety with a weeping- 
tendency; the young shoots being long and slender, and 
reaching to the ground. There are two Variegated Eed 



112 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

Cedars, the one with white spots and stripes on the foli- 
age (var. variegata alba); the other one with golden 
marhlings (var. variegala aurca), both of fair merit, if 
not especially valuable. The Light-green Ked Cedar 
(var. Schottii), and also Bedford's Red Cedar (var. Bed- 
fordiana, syn. Barbadensis) , are varieties with lighter 
colored foliage than the species. 

One of the finest Junipers is the Chinese (J. Chinensis), 
belonging to the Cypress-like section. The foliage is of 
a handsome dark-green, presenting a peculiar, lively ap- 
pearance, and the tree has an erect habit. The sexes are 
in separate trees, there being a sterile and a fertile form, 
this last has a lighter foliage, and is somewhat pendant, 
C. Reeves' Chinese Juniper (var. Reevesiana) is of re- 
markable hardiness, and has a fine habit, with somewhat 
drooping and spreading branches. Lee's Chinese Juniper 
(var. Leeana) is a variety with long, bright-green leaves, 
and vigorous and dense habit. 

The Japanese Juniper (J". Chinensis, var. Japonica, 
J. Japonica of some authors), is a pleasing shrub of very 
small size, and suitable for rockwork ; it has bright, 
lively-green foliage ; it is not perfectly hardy at the 
North, H. There are also several variegated-leaved 
varieties of this. 

There are still several other desirable Junipers which 
might be named here, snch as the Prostrate Juniper (J. 
prostrafa), of trailing habit, with shining, dark-green 
foliage; hardy, and well adapted for rockwork and edg- 
ings. The Scaled Juniper (/. squamata), also of low- 
spreading habit, with foliage of a delicate, glaucous hue. 
Globular Juniper (J. hemisphcerica), very dwarf and 
dense, with whitish foliage. Lovely Juniper (/. occi- 
dentals, var. venusfa), a handsome, hardy variety of 
erect-waving, torch-like form, and fine glaucous, 
bluish foliage. Daurian Juniper (J. Daurica), a low 
tree, with the leaves whitish on their upper surface. 



EVERGREEN TEEES AND SHRUBS. 113 

the torreta. Torreya. 0. 

A genus of evergreens, near relatives of the Yew, and 
natives of our Southern States, California, and Asia. 
They are not considered hardy generally in the North, 
but are desirable for garden planting throughout the 
South. Among the species are the California Nutmeg 
Tree (T. Calif o mica), with long, pale-green leaves. Nut- 
bearing Torreya (T. nucifera) from Japan. Yew-leaved 
Torreya (T. taxifolia), a Florida species, with shiny 
green leaves, which give off a disagreeable odor if bruised. 
This is hardy in New York City. 

THE HOLLY. IUx. C. 

The American" Holly (/. opaca) is the only true 
Holly that is reliable in the United States. It has large, 
tough, smooth leaves, with scattered spiny teeth along 
the wavy margin, and ornamental red berries in winter. 
Should be severely pruned when transplanted. 

THE UMBRELLA PINE. Stiadojoitys. 

S. verticillata, the only species, is a remarkable tree 
from Japan, with curious, shining, dark-green foliage, 
arranged in whorls of umbrella-like tufts. It is hardy 
in New England. 

the laurel. Ealmia. E. H. 

Beautiful native shrubs, with shining foliage and large 
clusters of flowers. "Will thrive in a moist, light soil, 
that is well supplied with vegetable matter, like leaf- 
mould, or muck, and in partial shade. 

The Mountain, or Broad-leaved Laurel {K. Mi- 
folia), has medium-sized, shining green leaves, and 
white and rose-colored flowers, E. G. 

The Narrow-leaved, or Sheep Laurel (K. angus- 
tifolia), of much smaller size than the last named, has 
small, light-green leaves and crimson flowers, H. 



114 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 



THE TEW. Taxus. 0. H. 



A genus of evergreens, with handsome, generally dark- 
green foliage, that are very popular in England, but are 
not so reliable in our climate, owing to the injury the 
foliage is apt to receive from the sun in winter. Partic- 
ularly fine for cemetery planting. 

The English Yew (T. baccata) is a handsome bush, 
densely branched and can be trimmed to any shape, C. 
The American Yew or Ground Hemlock (var. Canadensis) 
is brought under the foregoing species by Prof. Gray; per- 
fectly hardy, of dwarf, spreading habit, and growing 
readily in the shade. There is also a variegated-leaved 
form of this, with the young shoots marked with yellow. 

Of other fine varieties may be named Dovaston's or 
Weeping Yew (var. Dovastoni), with pendulous, strag- 
gling branches, and long dark leaves ; one of the hard- 
iest. Beautiful Yew (var. elegant issima), of erect, rapid 
growth, and foliage marked with yellow. Erect Yew 
(var. erect a), one of the hardiest and finest, with slender 
branches and small, shining, dark leaves. Fox's Dwarf 
Yew (var. nana), a diminutive form, with handsome, 
very dark leaves, H. The Golden Yew (var. aurea), 
with gold-colored foliage ; the Irish Yew (var. fastigi- 
ata), an upright grower, with very dark foliage, and of 
which there are also several sub-varieties. 

The Japanese Yew (T. adpressa) is one of the hard- 
iest, most beautiful, and least liable to receive injury 
from the sun in winter of the entire genus ; of low, 
spreading form, with short dark-green leaves, H. Upright 
Japan Yew (var. stricta) is a variety of the above, of 
erect habit, but less hardy. The Abrupt-pointed Yew 
(T. cuspidata) is a distinct and handsome species from 
Japan, with large, glossy, dark-green leaves, and com- 
pact habit, one of the hardiest. 

The Japan Yew or Podocarpus (Podocarpus Japon- 



EVERGREEN TREES AND SHRUBS. 115 

ica) is of a distinct genus, but somewhat resembles the 
Irish Yew. Tender in the North, 0. 

the thuiopsis. Thuiopsis. 

Evergreens from Japan, sometimes called Japanese 
Arbor Vitge, too tender to be considered reliable with us, 
excepting in central and southern portions of our coun- 
try, and here they should have the benefit of some shade. 
Of different kinds there is the Hatchet-leaved Thuiop- 
sis ( T. dolabrata), of conical form, with slightly pendu- 
lous branches, and flat leaves. Standish's Thuiopsis (T. 
Standisliii) is somewhat like the last, but said to be hard- 
ier ; and a Variegated-leaved Thuiopsis {T. dolabrata 
variegata), has bright-green foliage, silvery beneath. . 

the cephalotaxus. Cephalotaxus. C. 

The Plum-fruited Cephalotaxus (var. 0. drupacea) 
is a compact growing, rather tender, ornamental ever- 
green, with short leaves. Fortune's Cephalotaxus (C. 
Fortunei) is a species of which there are two forms, 
male and female trees ; the former with long leaves, 
and of a spreading habit of growth ; the latter with 
smallish, dark-green leaves, and slender drooping 
branches. 

the rhododendron. Rhododendron. E. H. 

Wherever they Avill do well, it is hard to find any other 
shrubby plants that will give equal satisfaction with the 
Ehododendrons, especially the improved hybrid sorts. 
They are of a handsome form, with glossy, evergreen 
leaves, and are covered in June with immense clusters of 
the most attractively colored and handsomely formed 
flowers. The plants will not thrive in heavy clay, and 
a limey soil seems to be about as bad for them, while any 
light loam that is well supplied with decayed leaf-mould 
or other similar vegetable matter, will suit them well. 
They like coolness and moisture at the roots in summer, 



116 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

which may be secured by mulching them before hot 
weather comes on. A temperature fifteen degrees below 
zero, if not too long continued, or too frequent, does not 
hurt them, provided they have shelter from wind and 
sun, and they may be planted near buildings or trees to 
receive this. For some further directions in preparation 
of the soil and their management, see Divisions IV and V. 

The American Rhododendron (R. maximum), also 
called the Great Laurel, is a native species, and found 
growing wild from Maine to Ohio, and southward, as a 
straggling bush, with thick, smooth leaves, and small, 
green-spotted, rose-colored or white flowers. 

Pontic Rhododendron (R. Ponticum) is an Europe- 
an species, almost valueless in America, from the liabil- 
ity of the flower buds to be winter killed. 

The Catawba Rhododendron {R. Catawbiensis), the 
Rose Bay of the Southern States, is found growing on the 
mountains of Virginia and southward. From this 
species have sprung nearly all the fine hardy hybrids of 
the gardens. There are many named varieties of these, 
the colors of which are exceedingly handsome, and vary- 
ing through pure-white, light-pink, cherry-red, rose, lilac, 
purple, and brilliant-scarlet, and crimson. There are 
some other distinct species also, which are of little con- 
sequence, hence I omit them. 

the box. Buxus. E. H. 
A genus of beautiful evergreens, suitable for lawn dec- 
oration, and the dwarf varieties for edgings to walks, 
etc. The trees may be grown to any desirable shape 
by shearing. Although hardy, they sometimes suffer 
from sun-scald in winter, and from harsh sweeping 
winds, but as they do not object to partial shade, by 
planting them where they will receive this, the first 
named difficulty is avoided, and shelter from winds is 
the remedy for the other. 



EVERGREEN TREES AND SHRUBS. 117 

The Common Tree Box (B. sempervirens) is the well 
known European species, with beautiful glossy foliage, 
E. The following are some of the varieties of this : 
Dwarf Box (var. suffruticosa), is the sort usually em- 
ployed for edgings ; forms a pretty bush when planted 
alone. Handsworth's Box (var. Handsivorthii) is a vigor- 
ous, upright grower of great hardiness. Jackson's Weep- 
ing Box (var. Jaclcsonii) has pendulous branches, which 
habit gives the tree a fine appearance. The Broad- 
leaved Box (var. latifolia), and the Myrtle-leaved Box 
(var. myrtifolia), are both fine sorts. There are a num- 
ber of varieties, the leaves of which are marked and 
splashed with gold and silver colors, such as tbe Gold- 
striped Box, Silver-striped Box, Elegantly-variegated 
Box, and others. 

the mahonias. Berieris. H. 

The evergreen species of Barberry were formerly 
placed in the genus Malionia, but they are now arranged 
as a section of Berleris. It is convenient to retain Ma- 
honia as a popular or garden name. 

The Holly-leaved Mahonia (B. Aquifolium) is 
one of the hardiest and finest low-growing evergreens we 
have. It is liable to receive spots from the sun in winter, 
on which account it should be protected somewhat, a 
thing easily done with evergreen boughs or otherwise, as 
the plant is of low growth ; or it may be planted in the 
shade. It has handsome, thick, glossy leaves, with 
prickly and scalloped edges, which somewhat resemble 
those of the Holly ; clusters of yellow flowers in the 
spring. There are several other rather unimportant 
species. 



118 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

CHAPTER VIII. 

CLIMBERS AND TRAILERS. 

As found growing wild, the hard-wooded climbers and 
trailers afford some of the most delightful bits of natural 
scenery to be met with. Many of these serve valuable 
purposes for embellishments in ornamental gardening, as 
shown in Part III. Some kinds, and conspicuously the 
Clematis, have been improved much by cultivation since 
first brought into the gardens. 

THE VIRGINIA CREEPER. Ampelopsis. 

A genus of climbers of the first rank for general cul- 
ture. The Virginia Creeper {A. quinquefolia), also 
cailed " American Ivy," and incorrectly, "Woodbine," 
is the common native species. It is a rapid grower, pro- 
ducing dense masses of splendid, digitate foliage, and at- 
taching itself firmly to wood, stone, or the trunks of 
trees. There is, however, a form not possessing this last 
named quality, which should be avoided. The foliage of 
this species turns to a beautiful crimson in autumn. 

Veitch's Ampelopsis {A. tricvspidata, syn. A. 
Veitchii), from Japan, possesses great merit as a hardy 
climber, and particularly for covering brick and stone 
walls. The leaves are smaller than the common kind, 
lobed instead of divided, and of a clear green, changing 
to crimson-scarlet in the fall. They possess the pleasing 
peculiarity of regularly overlapping one another, liter- 
ally forming an even sheet of green, if growing on any 
smooth surface like a building. Perfectly hardy if pro- 
tected for one or two winters until well established. 

Among other ornamental species may be named the 
Pepper Vine (A. bipinnatd), of vigorous, picturesque 
growth, with compound, pinnate leaves. Royle's Ampe- 
lopsis (A. Roylii), of rapid growth, with large foliage, 



CLIMBERS AND TRAILERS. 119 

that colors up richly in the autumn. A. indivisa has 
leaves less deeply cut than the others. 

the wistaria. Wistaria. 

Usually, for several years after planting, the Wistarias 
make hut little growth, but after being once well estab- 
lished, they grow rapidly and to a great length. Besides 
their free growing qualities, they are prized for their 
picturesque appearance in general, and the profusion of 
showy flowers they bear. 

The Chinese Wistaria (W. Sinensis) is one of the 
best known and most vigorous species, attaining to an 
immense size with age; long pendulous clusters of pale 
lilac flowers in the spring, and sometimes again in the 
fall. There are several varieties of this species, namely 
the Chinese White Wistaria (var. alba), with charming 
white flowers. Double Purple Wistaria (var. flore pleno), 
said to produce long racemes of double flowers, but it is 
very slow to come into bloom. 

There are a number of Japanese species and varieties 
(W. brachybotrys), with fragrant, light, rosy-purple 
flowers; var. rubra, a variety of the last named, with 
darker red flowers. W. Japonica alba nana, of dwarfish 
growth with white flowers; W. multijtiga and multi- 
juc/a alba), are of another species, with very large 
racemes of flowers, in the first named of purple color, 
in the last white. 

The American, or Shrubby Wistaria ( W. fru- 
tescens), is a native, less attractive and strong growing 
than the Chinese; pale-blue flowers in short clusters. The 
White American Wistaria (var. alba) is a white-flowered 
variety of the species. Var. magnifica is said to have 
the flowers in dense drooping racemes. 

THE HONEYSUCKLE OR WOODBINE. Lonicera. 

A rather extensive genus, the more ornamental species 
and varieties of which are much valued for their fine 



120 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

flowers. Their nature is to twine about any support, 
hence they are more useful for adorning pillars, veran- 
da posts, etc., than for covering walls. Excellent about 
rockwork. By stopping the leading shoots at four to six 
feet, most of the kinds form handsome standards if sup- 
ported by a stake. 

Among native species and their varieties are the fol- 
lowing : 

Scarlet Trumpet Honeysuckle (L. sempervirens), 
a strong grower, with handsome, scarlet flowers, about 
two inches long, produced all summer ; dark -green 
leaves. Brown's Scarlet Trumpet Honeysuckle (var. 
Brownii), a variety of the last with large dark-scarlet 
flowers. Small Bed Honeysuckle (var. minus), a variety 
with small flowers, slightly darker than in the species. 

Yellow Trumpet Honeysuckle (L. jlava), very 
fragrant, bright-yellow and orange flowers. What is 
known in the nurseries as the Canadian Honeysuckle 
(var. Canadensis), probably a variety of this, is a dis- 
tinct and striking form, of robust growth, with large, 
bluish-green leaves, united in pairs at the basa around 
the stem ; yellow flowers in June ; readily grown as a 
standard. 

The Asiatic species are a class of great value, Hall's 
Japan Honeysuckle (L. Halleana), a species with fine, 
nearly evergreen leaves,and very sweet flowers, at first pure 
white, and then changing to yellow, and produced all 
summer, a superb sort. Japan-Evergreen Honeysuckle 
(L. brachi/poda), of remarkably vigorous growth, with 
white and yellow fragrant flowers. Golden- Veined 
Honeysuckle (var. reticulata), a variety of the last, the 
small, rounded leaves of which are elegantly netted and 
veined with yellow. Among other meritorious kinds may 
be named 

The Common Woodbine (L. Periclymenum), a rapid 



CLIMBERS AND TRAILERS. 121 

grower, with showy flowers, red outside, white within. 
Monthly Dutch Honeysuckle (var. Belgica), a* superior 
variety, blooming throughout the season, with red and 
yellow, fragrant flowers. 

Mangeville's Honeysuckle (L. Caprifolium, var. 
pallida), an evergreen species, with yellowish-white, 
fragrant flowers. Standish's Honeysuckle (L. Stan- 
disJiii), light pink and yellow flowers. 

the clematis. Clematis. 

The species of Clematis are most attractive and 
valuable climbers, being easily grown, of graceful habits, 
and possessing magnificent flowering qualities. They 
will thrive in any good soil which is well enriched, and 
by protecting the roots by a slight covering over them 
each fall, they stand the severest winters safely. Besides 
their great value for decorating verandas and arbors, 
they are admirably suited for growing in pots or tubs, 
training the vines on a trellis, or balloon frame, for adorn- 
ing verandas, roof gardens, conservatories, etc. 

The species are divisible into two classes, namely : 
those that flower on the last year's growth in the early 
part of the season, and those flowering on the present 
season's growth in summer and autumn, either con- 
tinuously or in successive crops. There are many vari- 
eties of both these classes described in the catalogues, 
ranging in color from white through lavender, reddish- 
purple, violet, mauve, etc., to the most intense violet- 
blue, and blackish mulberry. 

Jackman's Clematis (C. JacTcmanii) is one of the 
best sorts, and well known, being of free growth, and a 
most abundant bloomer, the flowers being of a rich, 
violet-blue color. 

The Scarlet Clematis (C. coccinea) is a quite dis- 
tinct species, with scarlet flowers, having yellow centers. 

The Common Wild Clematis (C. Virginiana) is a 
6 



122 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

species of free growth, with smooth leaves and white 
flowers iu profusion. 

trumpet flowers. Tecoma. 

American Trumpet Vine (T. radicans) is a vigorous, 
hardy climber, with large, trumpet-shaped, scarlet flow- 
ers in August, excellent to cover stumps and stones, or 
to train as a standard. Dark-red or Purple Trumpet 
Flower (var. astrosanguinea), a variety with purplish- 
crimson flowers, and more shrub-like in habit than the 
last. 

Great Trumpet Flower (T. grandiflora) has large, 
showy, pale-orange flowers. 

OTHER ORNAMENTAL CLIMBERS. 

The Dutchman's Pipe (Aristolochia SipJio), a valuable 
native climber of rapid growth, witli immense leaves ten 
to twelve inches across, and pipe-shaped, yellowish-brown 
flowers. There are several other species, but not equal 
to the one named. 

The Climbing Bitter-Sweet or Staff-Tree ( Celastrus 
scandens), a native, and one of the most elegant climbers 
or twiners, and worthy of being generally used ; exceed- 
ingly fine for verandas ; rich, glossy leaves, and beauti- 
ful, pendant branches, with clusters of orange capsules. 
The Bitter-Sweet may be grown in the form of a shrub, 
by cutting back to three or four feet. There are also sev- 
eral Japanese species. 

The Ahebia quincda, a neat and most attractive climb- 
er from Japan, with small leaves and fragrant purple 
flowers in early summer, followed by ornamental fruit. 

The Actinidia polygama, another climber from Japan, 
is of vigorous and elegant habit, and has white and 
purple flowers. 

A Vine with variegated leaves ( Vitis lieterophylla, 
Cissus variegata of some catalogues), is a very pleasing 



CLIMBERS AND TRAILERS. 123 

plant. Of rapid, slender growth, with small leaves, re- 
sembling those of the grape vine, but beautifully mar- 
bled, and variegated with white, pink and green. 

The Carolina Cocculus (C. Carolinus), a native 
vine, with small, heart-shaped leaves, greenish flowers in 
summer, and small, red fruit, the size of a pea. 

The Canadian Moonseed (Menispermum Canadense), 
a pretty, slender-branched, twining plant, with small, 
yellow flowers and black fruit, resembling small frost 
grapes. 

The Grape ( Vitis). There are situations, and especially 
about the Wild Garden, where the native species of grapes 
are most attractive climbers. They are neat, free grow- 
ers, with foliage well adapted to making shade for arbors, 
for overhanging ledges, bridges, etc. ; some have fragrant 
flowers. Among the best for ornament, may be named 
the Summer Grape ( V. aestivalis) ; the Frost Grape ( V. 
cofclifolia), with very sweet flowers, and the species V. 
indivisa, and V. vulpina for the more southern sections 
of our country. 

The White Jessamine (Jasminum officinale) is an 
elegant climber, that has long been in cultivation, but is 
too tender for the North, unless well protected in winter. 
There are several other species and varieties belonging 
to the genus. 

The Grecian Silk Vine (Periploca Grceca), a rapid 
growing climber of no high order of beauty, with pointed 
leaves, and purplish-brown flowers. 

The European Ivy (Hedera) . Owing to our bright sun- 
shiny winters, in which it suffers if the sun comes to it, 
the Ivy can never become popular in this country to the 
extent it has in Europe. The hardiest kinds, however, 
do well, when planted against the north side of buildings 
or walls. They may also be thickly planted in beds to 
produce a mass of foliage over the bed, or be used as 



124 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

edgings, as when grown thus they can be easily protected. 
The Irish Ivy (H. Helix, var. Hibemica), is about the 
best for general planting. There are a number of inter- 
esting varieties with variegated and striking forms of 
foliage, all more or less useful. 



CHAPTER IX. 
HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 

Let me introduce the plants that come under this head 
as the Hardy Wild Plants of the temperate regions of 
the earth, and then it may be known at once what they 
are. The lists embrace such as are perennial, having 
roots that live from year to year, producing new growths 
above ground annually, but which die down as often, 
either soon after flowering, or in the fall. Many of the 
kinds have been much improved in the gardens, afford- 
ing numerous varieties that greatly exceed the parents in 
value. 

It is a pleasure to note the increasing attention this 
class of plants is now attracting in ornamental garden- 
ing in this country and Europe. As a rule they are 
easily grown, very ornamental and inexpensive, for, un- 
like most other kinds of flowers, when once they are 
planted, they remain. 

Pains have been taken in this chapter, to classify these 
plants somewhat, according to their adaptability and 
value. To save space, I have generally, in the descrip- 
tions, merely separated the distinguishing qualities of the 
plants by the semicolon, giving color of flowers first, sea- 
son of flowering next, with the hight in inches or feet 
last. The word " protect," indicates that the sort which 
it follows, must be protected in the Northern States in 
winter. 



HAEDT HEEBACEOUS PLANTS. 125 

CLASS I. — HARDY PLANTS, MOSTLY IMPROVED SORTS, OP 
THE HIGHEST ATTRACTIVENESS. 

Adonis, Spring (Adonis vernalis). — Yellow ; spring ; 8 
to 12 inches. 

Anemone or Wind-Flower (Anemone). — Japan Ane- 
mone (A. Japonica). — Bluish-rose; autumn; 2 1 /,, feet. 
White Japan Anemone (var. alba).— White, golden 

center ; autumn ; 2*/ 2 feet. 
Apennine Anemone (A. apennina). — Bright blue; 

early spring ; 6 inches. 
Double White Wind-Flower (A. nemorosafl. pi.).— 
Early spring ; 6 inches. 
Anthericum (Anthericum). — Branching Anthericum 
(A. ramosum). — White ; spring ; 18 inches. 

St. Bruno's Lily (X Uliastrum). — White ; June ; 18 
inches. 
Columbine (Aquilegia). — Rocky Mountain Columbine 
(A. cmrulea). — White and caerulean blue ; spring; 2 to 
3 feet. 

Golden-spurred Columbine (A. chrysantlia). — Yel- 
low ; summer ; 2 to 3 feet. 
Siberian Columbine (A. glandulosa). — Blue and 

whice ; summer ; 2 feet. 
Skinner's Columbine (A. STcinneri). — Distinct, red 

and yellow. 
Striped Columbine (A. caryopliylloides). — Striped. 
Common Columbine (A. vulgaris). — There are many 
varieties. 
Woodruff (Asperula odorata). — Pure white ; spring ; 
6 inches. 

Astilbe, Japan (Astilbe Japonica). — White ; cut- 
leaves ; May ; 2 feet. Often called Spircea Japonica. 

Daisy (Bellis perennis). — White, pink, etc.; spring ; 3 
inches ; protect. 



12o ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

Bell-Flower, Harebell {Campanula). — The following 
are the names of a few species among many : 

Peach-leaved Campanula (C. persiccefolia). — Blue; 

June ; 2 to 3 feet. There is a variety with white 

flowers. Var. coronata, has double flowers, both 

white and blue. 
Nettle-leaved" Campanula (C. Trachelium). — Blue; 

with a white variety ; 3 feet. 
Betony-leaved Campanula (G. sarmatica). — Pale 

blue ; July ; 2 feet. 

The catalogues give other species and varieties of 
Campanula. The normal color is blue, but nearly all 
have varieties with white flowers. 

Large Bell-flower (Platycodon grandiflorum. Syn. 
Campanula grandiflora, Walileiibergia grandiflora). — 
Very large blue flowers ; summer ; 1 to 2 feet. There is 
a white semi-double variety. 

Meadow Saffron (Colchicum). — C. autumnale. Light- 
purplish, mottled ; autumn ; 4 inches. There are varie- 
ties with white and with rose-colored flowers. C. varie- 
gatum, with rose and purplish-violet flowers, is probably 
a variety also. Autumn ; 4 inches. 

Lily of the Valley (Convallaria majalis). — White ; 
fragrant ; May ; 8 inches. 

Hollyhock (Althwa rosea). — Many colors, single and 
double ; summer ; 4 to 6 feet. 

Crocus (Crocus). — Many colors; early spring; 4 
inches. 

Larkspur (Delphinium). — The following are excellent 
kinds : 

D. formosum. — Rich, dark blue, tinged purple ; 

summer ; 2 to 3 feet. 
D. cmlestinum. — Light blue, double; June, Sept.; 
3 to 4 feet. 



HARDY HERBACEOUS PLAKTS. 127 

D. pyramidalis. — Blue ; fine grower ; June ; 4 to 5 

feet. 
D. azureum. — Light blue ; single ; July ; 2 to 3 

feet. 
D. grandiflorum. — Of different colors. 
Pink (Dianthus). — Garden Pink (D. plumarius). — 
Pink, with a white variety ; 12 to 15 inches. 

Maiden Pink (D. deltoides). — Rose and white ; 6 to 

9 inches. 
Amoor Pink (D. dentosus). — Lilac ; dwarf inhabit. 
Sweet William {D. larbatus). — Many colors and 

forms. 
D. Querterii. — Deep crimson ; clove fragrance ; 
spring ; 1 foot. 
Bleeding Heart (Dicentra spedabilis). — Rosy crimson; 
spring ; 2 to 4 feet. 

Plumy Bleeding Heart (D. eximia). — Rose ; sum- 
mer ; 9 to 18 inches. 
Eraxinella {Dictamnus Fraxinella). — Both pink and 
white ; June ; 18 inches. 

Foxglove {Digitalis). — White, purple, etc.; summer; 
2 to 3 feet. 

Adder's Tongue, Dog's Tooth Violet (Erijtlironium). — 
Yellow Adder's Tongue (B. Americanum). — Yellow; 

May ; 6 to 9 inches. 
White Dog's Tooth Violet (B. alMdum).—B\msh- 

white ; May. 
European Dog's Tooth Violet (B. Dens-canis). — 
Crown Imperial {Fritillaria imperialis). — Different 
colors ; spring ; 3 feet. 

Plantain Lily (Funhia) : As the species of Funhia 
and of Hemerocallis are both known as Day Lilies, and 
much confusion results, it has been proposed in England, 
to call the Funkias Plantain -lilies, an appropriate name, 
having reference to their plantain-like leaves. 



128 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

White Plantain Lily (F. alba). — White ; summer ; 

15 inches. 
Blue Plantain Lily (F. cwrulea). — Light blue; June 

and July ; 1 foot. 
Japan Plantain Lily (F. Japonica). — Lavender ; 

narrow leaves ; 2 feet. 
Siebold's Plantain Lily (F. Sieboldii). — Pale pink ; 
12 to 18 inches. 
Day Lily (Hemerocallis) : 

Yellow Day Lily (H. fiava). — June ; 2 to 4 feet. 
Copper-colored Day Lily (H. fulva). — Yellowish 

copper-color ; July. 
Double Day Lily, of several species. 
Snowdrop (Galanthus). — Common Snowdrop (G. 
nivalis). — White ; early spring ; 4 inches ; also a double 
variety. 

Canada Tick-Trefoil (Desmodium Canadense). — Blu- 
ish-purple ; all summer ; 1 to 2 feet. 

Rocket Flower (Hesperis). — Dame's Violet (H. ma- 
tronalis). — Purple ; June ; 1 to 2 feet ; also white and 
double white varieties. 

Hyacinth (Hyacintlius). — Common Hyacinth (H. ori- 
entalis). — Single and double in many colors ; May. 

Grape Hyacinth (Muscari). — Common Grape Hya- 
cinth (31. botryoides). — Deep sky-blue ; spring ; 9 inches ; 
also a pure white variety. 

Feathery Hyacinth (31. comosum). — Blue ; feathery; 

12 to 18 inches. 
Musk Hyacinth (31. moscliatum). — Purplish green. 
Candy-tuft, Perennial (Iberis) : Evergreen Candy-tuft 
(/. sempervirens). — White ; May. 

Coris-leaved Candy-tuft (/. corrmfolia). — White ; 

dwarf ; early summer ; 6 to 9 inches. 
Gibraltar Candy-tuft (/. Gibvaltarica). — White and 
purplish ; June ; 1 foot. 



HAUDlf HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 129 

Iris, Fleur de Lis, Flag (Iris).— Of the numerous 
species and hybrids, the following are among the best : 
Florentine Iris (I. Florentina). — White, blue and 

yellow ; early summer ; 18 inches. 
German Iris (I. Germanica). — The old " Blue Flag," 

of which there are many fine named varieties. 
Japan or Clematis-flowered Iris (I. Icevigata, Syn. 
I. Kmmpferi). — Flowers distinct in form, and pre- 
senting a wonderful variety of colors and shades 
in the named sorts ; 3 to 4 feet. 
Dwarf Iris (I. pumila). — Deep violet, yellow, etc.; 

spring ; 3 to 6 inches. 
Iberian Iris (I. Ibirica). — Purple and black ; spring. 
Peacock Iris (I. Pavonia). — Pure white and deep 

blue. 
Netted Iris (7. reticulata). — Blue, netted yellow ; 

spring ; 6 inches. 
English Iris (I. xiphioides). — White, blue, etc.; 

summer. 
Spanish Iris (I. XipMum). — Eesembles the last; 
many colors. 
Jonquil (Narcissus Jonquilla). — Double and single ; 
yellow ; spring. 

Pea, Perennial (Lathy rus latifolius). — Rose and white 
sorts ; summer ; 4 to 8 feet. 

Everblooming Pea (L. grandiflorus). — Purple ; sum- 
mer ; 3 to 4 feet. 

Blazing-Star (Liatris). — Spiked Blazing-Star (L. spi- 
cata). — Purple ; summer ; 2 to 4 feet. 

Elegant Blazing-Star (L. elegans). — Bluish purple ; 

summer ; 1 foot. 
Dwarf Blazing-Star (L. pumila). — Handsome pur- 
ple ; July ; 1 foot. 
Loose-strife (Ly thrum). — Spiked Loose-strife (L. Sali- 
caria). — Rosy-scarlet; summer; 3 feet ; there is also a 
variety with rosy-purple flowers. 



130 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

Snowflake (Leucojnm). — Spring Snowflake (L. ver- 
num). — White ; very early spring ; 9 inches. 

Summer Snowflake (L. cestivum). — White ; June ; 

l 1 /, feet. 
Autumn Snowflake (L. autumnalis). — White or 

pale rose ; 6 inches. 
Lilies (Lilium). — The following are a few of the best 
from among many species : 

Golden-Banded Lily (L. auratum). — White, maroon 

and yellow ; 2 to 5 feet. 
White Lily (L. candidum). — Pure white ; summer ; 

3 to 4 feet. 
Buff Lily (L. excelsum). — Nankeen, shaded red ; 4 

to 6 feet. 
Long - flowered Lily (L. longiflorum). — White ; 

12 to 20 inches ; protect. 
Turban Lily (L. Pomponium). — Eed, dotted black ; 

summer ; 1 to 2 feet ; and a variety with yellow 

flowers, dotted black. 
Kose-colored Japan Lily (L. speciosum roseum). — 

Eose ; spotted ; summer ; 1 to 2 feet. 
Slender-leaved Lily (L. tenuifolium). — Small ; scar- 
let ; June ; about 1 foot ; protect. 
Turk's Cap Lily (L. superbwm). — Bright orange ; 

summer ; 4 to 7 feet. 
Umbelled Lily (L. umbellatum). — Bright red; July; 

l l / a to 2 ] / 2 feet. 
Splendid Tiger Lily (L. tigrinum splendens). — 

Orange-scarlet ; spotted. 
Thunberg's Lily (L. Tlmriberyianum). — Blood red ; 

1 to 2 feet. 

Kramer's Lily (L. Krameri). — Suffused delicate 
pink ; 2 feet. 

Wild Yellow Lily (L. Canadense). — Yellow; sum- 
mer ; 2 to 5 feet. 

Southern Eed Lily (L. Catesbcei). — Scarlet ; 1 to 

2 feet ; protect. 



HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 131 

Lychnis {Lychnis). — Scarlet Lychnis {L. Chalcedonica). 
— Double and single ; various colors ; summer ; 2 to 3 
feet. 

Double German Catchfly {L. Viscaria, fl. pi.). — 

Bright red ; 12 to 18 inches. 
Flower of Jove {L. Fos-Jovis). — Large, deep red. 
Eagged Eobin {L. Fos-cuculi). — Fine, deep pink; 

summer ; 1 foot ; also a white variety. 
Haage's Lychnis (L. Haageana). — Red, of various 
shades ; large. 

Forget-me-not {Myosotis dissitiflora). — Sky-blue ; 
May ; 6 to 12 inches. 

Daffodil {Narcissus). — This well known genus of 
hardy bulbs now embraces many fine sorts. One 
establishment at Passaic, N. J., alone offering in their 
catalogue almost two hundred distinct species and varie- 
ties ; mostly yellow, orange, scarlet, and white colors ; 
double and single ; spring. 

Star of Bethlehem {Ornitlwgalum urribellatum). — 
Satiny-white ; spring ; 6 to 9 inches. 

Pyramidal Star of Bethlehem {0. pyramidale). — 
White; summer ; 1 to 2 feet. 
Bitter Vetch, Spring {Groins vermis). — Dark purple ; 
spring ; 1 foot. 

Pseony {Pc&onia). — Of this grand genus there are a 
number of species, and a great many improved named 
varieties. 

Tree Paeony (P. Moutan). — Superb flowers in many 

varieties ; 5 to 8 feet. 
Chinese Double Blush Tree Paeony. — Rose and pur- 
ple. 
Common Garden Pseony (P. officinalis). — Many va- 
rieties ; mostly large and double ; June ; 2 to 4 
feet. 



132 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

Fennel-leaved Paeony (P. tenuifolia). — Double and 
single ; dark crimson ; May ; l'/ 2 to 2 feet. 
Poppy, Perennial (Papaver). — Golden Poppy (P. era. 
ceum). — Orange yellow ; early ; 8 to 15 inches. 

Oriental Poppy (P. orientate). — Bright scarlet ; 
June ; 18 inches. 

Pentstemon (Pentstemon). — There are a number of spe- 
cies and varieties, with scarlet, purple, white, and other 
colored flowers. 

Phlox, Perennial (Phlox). — Hybrid Garden Phlox. — 
These have mostly originated from P. paniculata and P. 
maculata, and are represented by a long list of excellent 
named sorts ; summer ; 2 to 4 feet. 

Spreading Phlox (P. divaricata). — Lilac-blue ; 9 to 

18 inches. 
Creeping Phlox (P. reptans). — Rosy-purple ; May 

and June ; 4 to 8 inches. 
Moss Pink (P. subulata). — Rose, white, and purple 
varieties ; spring ; 4 inches. 
Greek Valerian (Polemonium cceruleum). — Pale blue ; 
18 inches ; and a form with variegated leaves. 

Jacob's Ladder (P. reptans). — Bright blue ; spreading; 
10 to 12 inches. 

Primrose (Primula). — Common Primrose (P. vulga- 
ris). — Many colors ; protect. Polyanthus Primrose. — 
Yellow, sulphur brown, etc. ; spring ; 4 to 6 inches. 

Lungwort (Pulmonaria). — Narrow-leaved. — (P. an- 
gustifolia). — Bright blue; April; 1 foot. Spotted-leaved 
Lungwort (P. maculata). — Showy foliage; blue; spring; 
1 foot. 

Feverfew, Hardy (Pyretlirum). — Scarlet, crimson, 
rose, and other colored varieties ; spring ; 15 inches. 

Sage, Southern (Salvia azurea). — Deep blue ; 2 to 3 
feet ; protect ; some other species are desirable. 



HARDY HERBACEOUS PLAKTS. 133 

Wood-Hyacinth, Squill (Scilla). — A charming genus 
of plants, embracing numerous species and varieties, 
showing many shades of blue flowers, some flowering 
early, and others late. 

Sedum or Stone-crop. — See Rock Plants. 
Catchfly (Silene): Sea Catchfly (S. maritima). — 
White; June; 2 to 4 inches. 

Pennsylvania Catchfly (S. Pennsylvanicd). — Showy, 

pink; June; 4 to G inches. 
Autumn Catchfly (S. Schafta). — Purplish-rose; 

June; 6 inches. 
Oriental Catchfly (8. orientalis). — Deep rose ; 
showy: 1 to 2 feet. 
Pink Root (Spigelia Marilandica). — Scarlet; June; 6 
to 18 inches; protect. 

Meadow-Sweet (Sjrircea): Goat's Beard (iS. Aruncus). 
—White; 4 feet. 

Dropwort (S. filipendula). — White; fern-like foliage; 

June; 1 to 2 feet. 
Purity (S. TJlmaria, fl. pi.). — White; handsome; 
June; 2 feet ; there is also a variety of this with 
golden variegated foliage. 
Queen of the Prairie (S. venusta). — Soft rose; sum- 
mer; 2 to 4 feet. 
Stokesia, Blue (Stokesia cyanea). — Blue ; August and 
later; 2 feet. 

Spiderwort (Tradescantia). — Blue Spiderwort (T. Vir- 
ginica). — Fine blue; of this species there are a number 
of varieties, including white; May; 1 to 2 feet. 

Flame-flower, or Red-hot Poker Plant (Tritoma 
Uvaria). — There are a number of varieties, scarlet, yel- 
low, etc. ; September; 2 to 4 feet. 

Tulips (Tulipa). — The varieties are very numerous, 
of many colors and shades, single and double; April and 
May. 



134 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

Speedwell {Veronica): V. amethystina. — Amethyst 
blue; summer; 12 to 18 inches. 

Gentian-leaved Speedwell ( V. gentianoides). — Pale 

blue; 12 to 18 inches. 
Japanese Speedwell ( V. longifolia). — Blue; sum- 
mer; 1 to 2 feet. 
Periwinkle ( Vinca). — Lesser Periwinkle (V. minor). 
— Blue and white varieties, also one with variegated 
leaves; summer; trailing; 1 to 2 feet. 

Greater Periwinkle ( V. major). — Blue ; summer ; 1 
to 2 feet. 
Violet ( Viola) : Sweet Violet ( V. odorata). — Violet; 
early spring; 6 inches. 

White Violet ( V. blanda). — Whitish. 

Birdfoot Violet ( V. pedata). — Bluish-lilac; sandy 

soils. 
Horned Violet ( V. cornuta). — Blue ; summer ; 3 to 
6 inches. 
Heart's-ease or Pansy ( Viola tricolor).— Many beautiful 
colors. 

CLASS II. — HARDY PLANTS, POSSESSING SHOWY POLIAGE 

AND FORMS, WHICH RENDER THEM PICTURESQUE IN 

APPEARANCE, AND WELL SUITED FOR GROUPS ON 

THE LAWN, OR FOR SUB-TROPICAL EFFECTS. 

Acanthus {Acanthus). — Broad-leaved Acanthus {A. 
latifolius). — White ; thick leaves ; 2 to 4 feet ; protect. 
Soft Acanthus {A. mollis). — Eose; showy leaves; 3 feet; 
protect. 

Monkshood, Autumn {Aconitum autumnale). — Pale 
blue; 6 feet. 

Acorus gramineus, var. — 2 to 6 inches. 

Grass, Ribbon {Phalaris arundinacea, var.). — 3 to 5 
feet. 



HAKDY HEEBACEOtJS PLANTS. 135 

Grass, Fescue (Festuca glauca). — Blue-leaved ; low; 
lor edgings. 

Dactylis — Orchard Grass {D. glomerata). — A varie- 
gated form with striped foliage, of good habit. 

Grass, Pampas (Gynerium argenteum). — Grand in rich 
soil; 6 to 9 feet ; protect. 

Grass, Panic {Panicum virgatum). — Stately ; 4 to 6 
feet. 

Bugle, Red-leaved {Ajuga reptans). — Purple leaves; 6 
inches. 

Alfredia, Nodding (Alfredia cernua). — Yellow; cut 
leaves; 6 feet. 

Wormwood {Artemisia). — A. Stelleriana, silvery foli- 
age; 9 to 18 inches. A. vulgaris, delicately cut leaves \ 
3 feet. 

Eeed (Arundo Donax). — A handsome gigantic grass, 
forming clumps; 8 to 12 feet. 

The Variegated Reed is a variety of the above, with 
foliage striped with white. 

Bocconia (B. cordata). — Whitish leaves ; flowers in 
August; 6 to 8 feet. 

Bnpthalmum (B. speciosum). — Large leaves ; yellow 
flowers; summer; 2 feet. 

Thistle, Globe {Echinops Ritro). — Blue; showy leaves; 
summer; 2 to 3 feet. 

Lyme Grass {Elymus arenaria). — Very narrow, gray 
grass; 2 feet. 

Erianthus Ravennm. — Valuable showy grass; 6 to 12 
feet. 

Eringo (Eringium). — Amethystine Eringo (E. ame- 
thystinum). — Blue; showy cut foliage; summer; 2 feet. 
Yucca-leaved Eringo (E. yuccmfolium). — White ; yucca- 
like leaves. 

Eulalia, Variegated (Eulalia Japonica variegata).— 
Striped grass; 4 to 6 feet; protect. Zebra Eulalia (var. 
Zebrina). — Leaves striped crosswise; protect. 



136 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

Plantain Lily, Variegated {Funkia undulata medio- 
picta). — Yellow-striped ; 6 to 12 inches. 

Sunflower, Graceful (Helianthus orgyalis). — Yellow ; 
handsome leaves; 8 to 10 feet. 

Day Lily, Variegated (Hemerocallis Kwanso var.). — 
White striped foliage. 



Fig. 8.— yucca. 

Mint, Variegated {Mentha rotundifolia var.). — Foliage 
blotched with yellow. 

Whorl Flower {Morina lonyifolia). — Rose; large leaves; 
2 to 3 feet; protect. 

Rhubarb, Indian (Rlmim Emodi). — Large, showy 
leaves ; 2 to 3 feet. — Palm-leaved Rhubarb (R. pahna- 
turn). Deeply lobed, showy leaves; 6 to 8 feet. 



HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 13? 

Clary, Silver {Salvia argentea). — Large, white, woolly 
leaves; 2 to 3 feet. 

Sage, Variegated (Salvia officinalis tricolor). — Leaves 
blotched, white; 1 foot. 

Lavender Cotton (Santolina Chammcyparissus). — 
Silvery leaves; 1 foot. 

Sedum. — There are several species with showy foliage, 
such as S. spectabile; S. cruciatum ; the Live-f or-ever, 
etc. See Eock Plants. 

Compass Plant (Silphium laciniatum). — Large pinnate 
leaves. — Cup Plant (S. perfoliatum). — Yellow, of strong 
growth; 4 to 6 feet. 

Comfrey, Variegated (Symphytum officinale var.). — 
Gold variegated; 1 to 2 feet. 

Thyme, Lemon, Variegated-leaved (Thymus citriodo- 
rus). — Golden Variegated. — Common Variegated-leaved 
Thyme (T. Serpyllum). — White variegated. 

Yucca, or Adam's Needle (Yucca filamentosa). — 
White; 3 to 4 feet. 

Narrow-leaved Yucca (Y. angustifolia). — White; 2 

to 4 feet. 
Date Yucca (Y. baccata). — Large throughout; 2 to 
10 feet; protect. 

CLASS III. — HARDY PLANTS, MOSTLY AS FOUND IN 

THEIR WILD STATE, AND COMPARATIVELY LACKING 

SOMEWHAT IN ATTRACTIVENESS. 

The plants of this list, while not averaging as fine in 
general quality as those of preceding classes, would still, 
in most instances, be prized if given a place in the 
border, while all are desirable for naturalization in the 
Wild-garden. With many the flowers are handsome, but 
the foliage or the habit of the plants may be compara- 
tively coarse, while sometimes just the reverse is the 



138 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

case. Then again a single plant of this class makes no 
show, but a mass of them is very attractive. 

Yarrow or Milfoil {Achillea). — Eose-flowered Yarrow 
(A. millefolium roseum). — Rose; summer; 18 inches ; 
there is also a deep-red variety of this, 

Double-flowering Sneezewort {A. Ptarmica, fl. %)l-)- 

— White; 15 iuches. 
Hoary-leaved Yarrow (A. filipendula). — Yellow; 
summer; 2 feet. 
May Apple, Oregon (Aclilys triphylla). — White; fra- 
grant; 15 inches. 

Monkshood, or Wolfsbane (Aconitum). — These have 
poisonous roots. 

Japan Monkshood (A. Japonicum). — Deep blue ; 

August; 18 inches. 
Common Monkshood [A. Napellus). — Blue ; sum- 
mer; 2 feet. 
Baneberry (Aetata), White Baneberry (A. alba). — 
Summer; 2 to 3 feet. 

Cut-leaved Baneberry (A. spicata). — Neat and grace- 
ful; 18 inches. 
Eed Baneberry, a variety of the above, with red 
berries; 2 feet. 
Bugle, Blue-flowered (Ajuga pyramidalis). — Blue ; 
spring; 3 inches. 

Star Grass, Yellow (Aletris aurea). — Yellow ; July ; 
2 to 3 feet. Colic Root Star Grass (A farinosa). — 
White; July; 2 to 3 feet. 

Allium, Golden (Allium Moly). — Golden; summer; 1 
foot. There are various other species of Allium of dif- 
ferent colors, such as white, rose, lilac, etc. 

Alstraemeria (A. aurantiaca). — Orange, lily-like flow- 
ers; summer and autumn; 2 to 4 feet. 

Amianthium (A. musccetoxicum). — White; broad 
leaves ; summer. 



HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 139 

Amsonia, Hairy (Amsonia angustifolia). — Pale blue ; 
protect. 

Willow-leaved Amsonia (A. Tabernmmontaria). — Pale 
blue; May; 2 feet. 

Anemone, or Windflower, Yellow [Anemone ranun- 
culoides). — Spring; 6 inches. 

Snowdrop Anemone {A. sylvestris). — Pure white; 

spring ; 1 foot. 
Long-fruited Anemone {A. cylindrica). — Greenish- 
white; spring. 
Pennsylvania Anemone (A. Pennsylvanica). — White 

and pink; 12 inches. 
American Pasque Flower (^4. patens, var. Nuttali- 
ana). — White or purplish ; spring. 
Mountain Everlasting (Antennaria dioica). — White; 
summer; trails. 

Butterfly Weed (Asclepias tuherosa). — Orange ; July ; 
2 feet. Milkweed {A. verticillata). — Greenish-white; 1 
to 2 feet. 

Asphodel (Asphodelus). — There are a number of spe- 
cies, mostly with yellow and white flowers; May to July; 
2 to 4 feet. 

Aster (Aster). — Of many species, the following are 
noteworthy here : 

New England Aster (A. JVovce- Anglice). — Violet 

purple; 4 feet. 
'New Belgian Aster (A. Novi-Belgii). — Dark crim- 
son. 
Oblong-leaved Aster (A. ollongifolius). — Purple and 

yellow; 2 to 3 feet. 
Long-leaved Aster (A. longifolius). — Handsome 
form and foliage; 2 feet. 
False Indigo (Baptisia) : Blue False Indigo (B. aus- 
tralis. — Blue ; June ; 2 to 5 feet. White False Indigo 
(B. cdba). — Purplish tinged; 2 to 3 feet. 



140 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

Berlandiera (B. tomenlosa). — Yellow ; downy leaves ; 

1 to 3 feet. 

Betonica (B. officinalis). — Purple; July; 2 feet. 

Boltonia (B. glastifolia). — White; 3 to 5 feet. 

Brodia3a,Allium-like (Brodiwa congesta). — Lilac; sum- 
mer ; 18 inches. Large-flowered Brodiaea (B. grandi- 
fiora). — Bluish-purple; 1 foot. 

Brunella, Large-flowered (Brunella grandiflora). — 
Purplish-blue; summer; 9 inches. 

Callirrhoe, Crimson (CalUrrlioe involucrata). — Crim- 
son; summer; 1 foot. 

Callirrhoe, Large-rooted (C. alcwoides). — White; 
summer ; 2 feet ; protect. Callirrhoe, Triangular 
(C. triangulata). — Purple; 2 feet. 

Butterfly Tulip (Colochortus Gunnisoni). — White; 6 to 
8 inches. 

Senna, American {Cassia Marilandica). — Yellow ; 
summer; 3 to 4 feet. 

Cupidone, Bine (Catananche ccerulea). — Sky-blue ; 
summer; 2 to 3 feet. 

Centaurea, Mountain (Centaurea montana). — Blue ; 
showy; June and July; 3 feet. Centaurea, Giant-headed 
(C. macrocephala). — Bright yellow; June and July; 

2 feet. 

Valerian, Red (Centranthus rider). — Red; June; 2 
feet; also a white variety. 

Chelone, Snake's-Head (Chelone glabra). — White and 
rose; 1 to 2 feet. 

Clematis, Erect (Clematis erecta). — Whitish ; small; 
June; 3 to 4 feet. Clematis, Entire-leaved (C. integri- 
folia). — Blue and white; June; 2 feet. 

Clintonia, Northern (Clintonia borealis). — Yellowish ; 
6 inches. 

Coreopsis (Coreopsis). — There are several species ; yel- 
low; June; 1 to 3 feet. 



HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 141 

Ooronilla (Coronilla varia). — Deep rose to white; 
June; 2 feet. 

Golden Aster {Chrysopsis Mariana). — Golden yellow ; 
late summer; 6 to 12 inches. 

Orosswort, Long-styled (Crucianella stylosa). — Pink; 
summer; 12 to 18 inches. 




Fig. 9.— RUDBECKIA MAXIMA. 

Leopard's Bane {Doronicum Caucasicum). — Yellow ; 
spring; 1 foot. 

Cone Flower, Purple {Echinacea purpurea). — Maroon 
and purple; 4 feet. 

Cone Flower, Great {Rudbechia maxima). — Large; 
yellow; 6 feet; protect. 



142 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

Cone Flower, Shining ( R. nitida). — Large golden 
rays; showy. 

Fleabane Rose {Erigeron macranthum). — Purple; July; 
2 feet. 

Stork's Bill, Showy (Erodium Manescavi). — Purplish- 
red; summer; early spring; 15 inches. 

Aconite, Winter (Eranthis hy emails). — Pale yellow ; 
early spring; 3 to 6 inches. 

Eupatorium, White Snake-root (Eupatorium ager- 
atoides). — Late summer; 3 feet. There are a number of 
other desirable species. 

Spurge, Flowering. — (Euphorbia corollata). — White ; 
July to October; 2 to 3 feet. 

Spurge, Glaucous (E. My r smites). — Yellow; prostrate; 
July. 

Gaura, Narrow-leaved {Gaura angustifolia). — From 
the Southern States; white; summer; 3 feet. 

Gentian, Closed (Gentiana Andreivsii). — Azure blue ; 
12 to 18 inches. 

Gentian, Crosswort (G. cruciata). — Brilliant blue; 6 
inches. 

Geranium, or Cranesbill, Blood- red ( Geranium sangui- 
neum). — Purplish-red ; summer ; 6 inches. Geranium, 
Broad-petaled (G. platypetalum). — Violet and red; 18 
inches. 

Avens, Scarlet (Geum coccineum). — Bright scarlet; 
summer; 1 to 2 feet; also a double variety. 

Bowman's Root (Gillenia trifoliata). — Rosy-white; 
July; 1 to 2 feet. 

Gypsophila, Acute-leaved ( Gypsophila acutifolia). — 
White; summer; 12 to 20 inches. Gypsophila, Panicled 
(G. paniculata). — White; summer; 2 to 4 feet. 

Sunflower, Narrow-leaved (Heliantlms angustifolius). 
Yellow ; autumn ; 3 feet. Sunflower, Soft-leaved (H. 
mollis). — Autumn; 2 to 4 feet. 



HAKDY HEEBACEOUS PLANTS. 143 

Eose Mallow, Swamp [Hibiscus Moscheutos). — Pale 
rose; late summer; 2 to 4 feet. 

Kose Mallow, Large-flowered {H. grandiflorus). — 

Both white and red; 4 to 5 feet. 
Rose Mallow, Calif ornian {H. Calif omicus). — White, 
with purple centre; 3 to 5 feet. 
Hawkweed, Orange-colored {Hieracium aurantiacum). 
— Bright orange; June; 1 foot. 

Hyssop {Hyssopus officinalis). — Blue and white sorts; 
summer; 2 feet. 

Hyssop, Giant {Lophanthus anisatus). — Lavender ; 
fragrant leaves; 2 feet. 

Flax, Perennial {Linum perenne). — Fine blue ; sum- 
mer; 12 to 18 inches. There are also varieties of white, 
rose, and lilac colors. 

Lobelia, Great Blue {Lobelia syphilitica). — Purplish- 
blue; 1 to 2 feet. Cardinal Flower (L. cardinalis). — 
Fine scarlet; late summer; 2 to 4 feet. 

Trefoil, Bird's-foot {Lotus corniculatus). — Yellow; 
summer; trailing. Also a double variety. 

Lupine, Many-leaved {Lupinus polyphyllus). — Blue ; 
summer; 1 to 4 feet; protect. 

Loosestrife, Yellow {Lysimachia vulgaris). — Yellow; 
June, July; 2 feet. 
Loosestrife, Clethra-like {L. clethroides). — White ; 
autumn; V/ 2 to 2 feet. 

Moneywort {L. nummularia). — Eeddish ; late sum- 
mer; prostrate. 

Mallow, Moren's {Malva Morenii). — Eeddish; late 
summer; 2 to 3 feet. 

Lungwort, Panicled {Mertensia paniculata). — Blue; 
July; 1 to 2 feet. 

Virginia Cowslip, or Lungwort {M. Virginica). — 
Fine blue; spring; 1 to 3 feet. 



144 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

Monkey Flower, Cardinal (Mimulus cardinalis). — 
Scarlet; 1 to 2 feet; protect. 

Bee-Balm, or Rorsemmt(Monardadidyma). — Bright 
red ; summer; 2 to 3 feet; protect. 

Catnip, Mussin's (Nepeta Mussini). — Azure blue; 
downy; fragrant leaves; June; 1 foot. 

White Cup (Nierembergia rivularis). — Creamy white; 
June; 3 inches. 

Evening Primrose, Missouri (CEnothera Missouriensis). 
— Yellow; prostrate. Evening Primrose, Tall AVhite 
(CE. speciosa). — White and purple; 6 inches to 2 feet. 

Mountain Spurge (Pacliysandra procumbens). — Purple 
and white; prostrate. 

St. Bernard's Lily (Anthericum Liliago). — White in 
spikes; summer; 1 foot. 

Dragon Head (Physostegia Virginiana). — Purplish 
red; 4 feet. 

Knotweed, Giant (Polygonum cuspidatum). — White ; 
summer; 3 1 /, to 8 feet. Knotweed, Red (P. vaccini- 
folium). — Rose; autumn; 6 to 10 inches. 

Pentstemon, Scarlet (P. barbatus). — Scarlet; summer; 
3 feet. 

Cinquefoil, Pyrenian (Potentilla pyrenaica). — Yellow; 
May; dwarf. 

Turfing Daisy (Pyrethrum Tcliihatcliewii). — For cover- 
ing poor soils; 3 inches. 

Buttercup, or Crowfoot, Double (Ranunculus bulbo- 
sus). — Yellow; spring; 18 inches. 

Buttercup, Rhomboid (P. rhomboideus). — Deep yel- 
low; spring; 3 to 6 inches. 
Crowfoot, Early (P. fascicularis). — Bright yellow ; 
5 to 9 inches. 

Skullcap (Scutellaria). — Numerous species ; purplish; 
summer. 

Groundsel (Senecio). — A few of the Groundsels are 



HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 145 

quite ornamental. Golden Kagweed (S. aureus). — Yel- 
low; cut leaves; 1 to 2 feet. 

Satin Flower (Sisyrinchium grandiflorum). — Purple ; 
spring; 6 to 10 inches. 

Golden Eod (Solidago). — A number of species; yellow; 
autumn; 3 to 8 feet. 

Solomon's Seal (Polygonatum vulgare). — "White ; 2 to 
3 feet. Solomon's Seal, Japan (var. macrantKum). — 
White; May; 2 to 4 feet. 

Hedge-Nettle, Woolly (Stachys lanata). — Purple; July; 
1 foot. Hedge-Nettle, Scarlet (coccinea). — Scarlet; 
July ; 3 to 4 feet. 

Sea Pink, or Thrift {Armeria vulgaris). — Rosy-lilac ; 
summer; 6 inches. 

Costmary {Tanacetum Balsamita). — Pale yellow; 
autumn. 

Meadow Rue, Showy (Thalictrum speciosum). — Showy; 
yellow; 3 to 4 feet. Meadow Rue, Columbine (T. aqui- 
legifolium. — Purplish; 2 to 3 feet. 

Star Flower, Spring (Triteleia uniflora). — Whitish; 
spring;. 4 to 6 inches; protect. 

Bellwort (Uvularia). — A number of sorts; yellowish; 
6 inches to 2 feet. 

Valerian ( Valeriana officinalis). — Blush white; June ; 
3 feet. 

Verbena, Hardy ( Verbena bipinnatifida, also called V. 
montana). — Rosy-lilac; summer; 9 inches. 

CLASS IV. — ALPINES AND ROCK PLANTS. 

The plants under this head are mostly natives of high 
elevations, and lovers of dry, sandy, or stony soil, hence 
perfectly at home on rockwork. Nearly all do well in 
the border, but being of small stature, they should be 
planted at the front. 
7 



146 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

Thrift, Prickly (Acantliolimon glumaceum). — Rose; 
summer; 6 inches. 

Thrift, Common (Ar?neria vulgaris). — Pink; summer; 
6 inches. 

Thrift, Plantain-like (A. plantaginea). — Purplish- 
red. 
Milfoil, Woolly (Achillea tomentosa). — Yellow; sum- 
mer; 8 inches. 

Golden Tuft (Alyssum saxatile). — Yellow ; grayish 
leaves; spring; 1 foot. 

Golden Tuft, Dense (var. compactum). — More com- 
pact than the parent. 

Kidney Vetch, Mountain (Antliyllis montana). — Pink; 
summer; 6 inches. 

Columbine, "Wild (Aquilegia Canadensis). — Scarlet 
and yellow; May; 1 foot to 18 inches. 

Rock Cress (Arabis). — Several species; white; spring; 
dwarf. 

Sandwort (Arenaria). — Several species; white; early 
summer; low. 

Meadow Saffron, Spring (Bulbocodium vernum). — 
Violet; early spring; 6 inches. 

Aubrietia (Aubrietia). — Several species ; white and 
purple; spring and summer; 3 inches. 

Quamash (Camassia). — Several species; blue; purple, 
etc. ; 12 to 15 inches. 

Harebell, Common (Campanula rot undi folia). — Deep 
blue; 6 to 12 inches. 

Harebell, Ligurian (C. isopliylla). — Blue ; 4 inches. 
Harebell, Carpathian (C. Carpatica). — Large, 
showy; blue; inches. 
Mouse-ear Chickweed, Woolly (Cerastium tomen- 
tosum). — White; summer; 2 to 6 inches. 
Mouse-ear Chickweed, Boissier's (C. Boissieri). 



HAEDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 147 

Wallflower, Alpine (Cheiranthus alpinus). — Yellow; 
spring; 9 inches. 

Spring Beauty (Claytonia Virginica). — Eose ; early 
spring; 6 inches. 

Clematis, Herbaceous (Clematis). — Several orna- 
mental species; purplish; 6 to 12 inches. 

Barrenwort, Alpine (Epimedium alpinum). — Purplish; 
May; 6 to 9 inches. 

Barrenwort, Large yellow (E. pinnatum). 

Erinus, Alpine (Erinus alpinus). — Purplish and 
white ; 3 to 6 inches. 

Gentian, Stemless (Gentiana acaulis). — Velvet blue ; 
May; 1 to 3 inches. 

Geum, Mountain (Geum montanum). — Bright yellow; 
9 to 18 inches. 

Ground Ivy (Nepeta Glechoma). — Eobust, dense 
creeper. 

Bluets, Common (Houstonia cmrulea). — Shade of 
blue; early spring; 3 to 6 inches. 

Bluets, Thyme-leaved (H. serpyllifolia). 

Toadflax, Alpine (Linaria alpina). — Violet and yel- 
low; 3 to 6 inches. 

Lychnis, Rock (Lychnis Lagascce). — Bright rose; sum- 
mer; 3 to 6 inches. 

Catchfly, German (L. Viscaria, var. splendens). — 
Bright red; 12 to 18 inches. 

Prickly Pear (Opuntia Rafinesquii). — Hardy Cactus; 
yellow; 6 to 10 inches. 

Wood Sorrel, Violet ( Oxalis violacea). — Violet; spring; 

5 to 9 inches. 

Partridge, or Squaw Berry (Mitchella repens). — White; 
scarlet fruit; trailing. 

Pentstemon, Acute-leaved (Pentstemon acuminatus). — 
Lilac; 6 to 20 inches; protect. 

Phlox, Douglas's (Phlox Douglasii — Whitish purple ; 

6 to 12 inches. 



148 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

Phlox, Lovely (P. ammna). — Pinkish; 6 to 12 
inches. 
Pine-barren Beauty (Pyxidanthera barbulata). — Pink- 
ish white; spring; prostrate. 

Soapwort, Eock (Soponaria ocymoides). — Rosy-pink ; 
summer; 6 to 12 inches. 




Fig. 10. — thick-leaved saxifrage (Saxifraga erassifolia). 

Saxifrage, Early (Saxifraga Virginiensis). — White ; 
6 inches. 

Saxifrage, Heart-leaved (S. cordifolia). — Blush- 
red; April and May; 6 to 9 inches. 
Saxifrage, Thick-leaved (S. erassifolia). — Resembles 

the last. 
Saxifrage, Strap-leaved (S. ligulata). — Red ; dark- 
red foliage; spring; 6 to 9 inches. 



HAEDT HERBACEOUS FLAHTS. 149 

Stonecrop or Sedum (Sedum). — There are many spe- 
cies and varieties, of which but a few are named here ; 
all do equally well in the border. 

Love Entangle (8. acre). — Several forms ; yellow ; 

3 inches. 
Stonecrop, Orange-flowering (8. Kamtschaticum). — 

Yellow; fine; July; 6 inches. 
Sedum, Beautiful (8. pulcliellum). — Pink ; July ; 

6 inches. 
Sedum, Poplar-leaved (8. populifolium). — Creamy- 
white; August; 6 inches. 
Sedum, Siebold's (8. Sieboldii). — Eosy-purple ; 

autumn; also a variegated form. 
Sedum, Showy (8. spectahile). — Eosy purple ; 

autumn. 
Live-for-ever (8. Telephium). — Purple ; summer; 2 

feet. 
Live-for-ever, Dark-red (var. hybridum). — Very 
showy foliage and flowers. 
Houseleek (Sempervivum). — Numerous species; showy 
in flowers and leaves. 

Catchfly, Alpine {Silene alpestris). — White ; 3 to 6 
inches. 

Tunica, Eock (Tunica Saxifraga). — Whitish; summer; 
3 to 4 inches. 

Speedwell, Alpine (Veronica alpina). — Bluish; 2 to 
12 inches. 

Strawberry, Barren ( Waldsteinia fragarioides).- -Yel- 
low; summer; 2 to 6 inches. 

CLASS V. — EERNS AKD SHADE-LOVIKG PLANTS. 

This list embraces such plants, as are usually met in 
partly open woods, exiting our admiration by their simple 
beauty, and often by the sweetness of their flowers. 
Directions are given in Part IV for preparing a soil that 



150 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

will suit them. While all love moisture, they will not 
do well where it is exceedingly wet. Some prefer the 
elevation that rockwork in the shade affords. In these 
cases the fact is stated along with the descriptions. 

Anemone, Wood (Anemone nemorosa). — White; early 
spring; 6 inches. Double Wood Anemone. — Double; 
white ; 6 inches. Double Bracted Anemone (var. brac- 
teata). — Double ; white ; green bracts. Double Rose- 
colored Anemone. — Double ; red. 

Apennine Anemone (A. Apennina). — Bright blue; 
early spring; 6 inches. 
Adam and Eve (Aplectrum hyemale). — A hardy native 
orchid. 

Jack in the Pulpit (Ariscema triphyllum). — Purple 
and white; 18 inches. 

Snakeroot, Virginian (Aristolochia Serpentaria). — 
Purple; summer; 18 inches. 

Snakeroot, Canadian (Asarum Canadense). — Brown- 
ish-purple; spring. 

Snakeroot, Heart-leaved (A. Virginicum). — Purple 

and green; April; low. 
Tailed Snakeroot (X caudatum). — Brownish-purple. 
Cornus, Dwarf, or Bunch Berry (Cornus Canadensis). 
White; June; 5 to 7 inches. 

Lady's Slipper, Stemless (Cypripedium acaule). — 
Rosy-purple; May; 10 inches. 

Lady's Slipper, European (C. Calceolus). — Dark- 
brown; 2 feet. 
Cowslip, American or Shooting Star (Dodecatheon 
Meadia. — Rose; spring; 8 to 12 inches. 

Cowslip, American, Jaffray's (var. lancifolium). — 
A larger variety. 
Trailing Arbutus, or Mayflower (Epigaa repens). — 
White and pink; prostrate. 

Ferns and Brakes. — The following are some of the 
most useful hardy species : 



HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 151 

Maiden-hair Fern, Hardy {Adiantum pedatum). — 9 
to 15 inches. 

Fragrant Wood Fern (Aspidium fragrans). — 4 to 12 
inches. 

Shield Fern (A. acrostichiodes). — 1 to 2 feet. 

Chamisso's Shield Fern [A. munitum). — 1 to 5 feet. 

Spleenwort (Asplenium ebeneum). — 8 inches and up- 
ward. 

Moonwort {Botrychium). — There are several species. 

Walking Fern (Camptosorus rhizophyllus). — Pros- 
trate. 

Lip Fern, Hairy (Cheilanthes vestita).-6 to 15 inches. 




Fig. 11.— downy lip fekn ( Ofieilanthes tomentosa). 

Lip Fern, Downy (C. tomentosa). — Eather stout; 

12 to 20 inches; protect. 
Deer Fern (Lomaria Spicant). — Evergreen; 6 to 

30 inches. 
Flowering Fern (Osmunda). — Several species ; 2 to 

5 feet. 



152 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

Polypod Fern {Polypodium vulgar e). — Evergreen; 4 

to 10 inches. 
Chain Fern ( Woodsia Ilvensis). — 2 to 6 inches. 
Cliff Brake {Pellcea atropurpurea). — 2 to 6 inches. 
Common Brake (Pteris aquilina). — 2 feet. 

Fritillaria, Lance- leaved {Fritillaria lanceolata). — 
Purple ; summer; 6 inches. 

Fritillaria, Purple (F. atropurpurea). — Purplish ; 4 
to 20 inches. 

Rattlesnake Plantain {Goodyera). —Several species with 
fine leaves; shaded rocky. 

Christmas Rose, Common {Helleborus niger). — Green- 
ish-white; early spring; 1 foot. 

Christmas Rose, Dark Purple {H. atrorubens). — Pur- 
plish-red; 1 foot. 

Helonias, Spiked {Helonias bullata). — Showy purple; 
May; 1 to 2 feet. 

Hepatica, or Liverleaf {Hepatica). — Shades of blue; 
early spring. There are various colors, and single and 
double varieties. 

Orchis, Showy {Orchis spectabilis). — Pink, purple, 
white lip ; 4 to 8 inches. 

Polygala, Fringed (Polygala paucifolia). — Purple; 3 
to 4 inches. 

Rosette Mullein (Ramondia Pyrenaicd). — Purple and 
orange; 2 to 6 inches. 

Meadow Beauty {Rhexia Virginica). — Reddish-purple; 
neat; 8 to 12 inches. 

Bloodroot {Sanguinaria Canadensis). — Purple; white; 
early spring; 3 to 8 inches. 

Club Moss {Selaginella). — Several useful native species. 

False Solomon's Seal (Smilacina stellata). — "White ; 
summer; 1 to 2 feet. 

Wake Robin, Nodding {Trillium cernuum). — White; 
nodding; spring; 12 to 18 inches. 



HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 153 

Wake Eobin, Painted (T. erythrocarpum). — "White 

and purple; spring; 8 to 12 inches. 
Wake Robin, Snowy (T. nivale). — Small; white; 

early spring; 2 to 4 inches. 
Wood Lily (T. grandiflorum). — Large; white, chang- 
ing to rose. 
Violet, Canada ( Viola Canadensis). — Whitish; sum- 
mer; 1 foot. 

Violet, Yellow (V. pubescens). — Yellow; spring; 6 

to 12 inches. 
Violet, Arrow-leaved (V. sagittata). — Purplish blue; 
spring. 
May Apple (Podophyllum peltatum). — White ; May ; 
1 foot. 

CLASS VI. — AQUATIC AND BOG PLANTS. 

An interesting class of plants, and quite easy to grow, 
where attention to their simple requirements is paid; re- 
specting these, some information is given in Part IV as 
to place and soil. 

Sweet Flag (Acorns Calamus). — Greenish ; sword-like 
leaves; 2 to 3 feet. 

Green Dragon (Arisaima Dracontium). — Greenish ; 
divided leaves. 

Water Shield (Brasenia peltata). — Dark purple; July. 

Calopogon (C. pulcliellus). — An orchid; purple; 1 foot. 

Marsh Marigold (Caltlia palustris). — Yellow ; spring ; 
1 foot. Marsh Marigold, Double. — A variety of the above. 

Calypso, Northern (Calypso borealis). — An orchid ; 
pink and yellow. 

Lady's Slipper, Showy (Cypripedium spectabile). — 
White, crimson; July; 1 to 2 feet. 

Lady's Slipper, Small White (C. candidum). — 
Greenish-white; 1 foot. 



154 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

Lady's Slipper, Small Yellow (C. parviflorum). — 

Yellow; spring; 1 to 2 feet. 
Lady's Slipper, Barn's Head (C. arietinum). — Red 
and white; June; 6 to 10 inches. 
Pitcher Plant, California (Darlingtonia Californica). 
Purplish; 1 to 3 feet; protect. 

Marsh Calla {Calla palustris). — White; summer; 6 to 
9 inches. 

Sundew, Thread-leaved (Drosera filiformis). — Rose ; 
summer; 6 to 12 inches. 

Sundew, Round-leaved (D. rotundifolia). — White ; 
summer; 6 inches. 
Fringed Orchis, Yellow (Hdbenaria ciliaris). — Yellow; 
summer; 1 to 2 feet. 

Fringed Orchis, White {H. blepliariglottis). — White; 

12 to 15 inches. 
Fringed Orchis, Purple (H. ftmbriata). — Lilac, 

purple; 1 to 2 feet. 
Fringed Orchis, Small Purple (H. psycodes). — 
Purple; fragrant; 12 to 18 inches. 
Cardinal Flower {Lobelia cardinalis).— Intense scarlet; 
1 to 3 feet. 

Water Lily, White (Nymphcea odorata). — White, 
changing to rose. 

Water Lily, Yellow (Nupliar advena). — Yellow ; 
summer. 

Golden Club {Orontium aquaticum). — Elliptic leaves ; 
fine for ponds. 

Grass of Parnassus (Parnassia asarifolia). — White ; 
summer; 3 to 6 inches. 

Pogonia {Pogonia). — A hardy orchid ; a number of 
species. 

Centaury, American {Sabbatia chloroides). — Rose ; 
summer; 12 to 18 inches. 

Centaury, Lance-leaved {8. lanceolata). — White; 1 
to 3 feet. 



HARDY HERBACEOUS PLAtfTS. 155 

Arrow Head {Sagittaria variabilis). — Aquatic, with 
pretty leaves. 

Pitcher-Plant, Side-Saddle Flower (Sarracenia pur- 
purea). — Purple ; 1 foot. There are several other in- 
teresting species of Sarracenia. 




Tig. 12. — aehow head {Sagittaria variabilis). 

Globe Flower, American (Trollius laxus). — Greenish- 
yellow; May; 1 foot. 

Cat- tail, or Eeed Mace {Typlia latifolia). — Brown; 
summer; 3 to 5 feet. 

Cat-tail, Narrow-leaved (T. angustifolia). — More 
slender and smaller. 
Pickerel Weed (Pontederia caudata). — Blue; July; a 
fine water-plant. 



156 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

CHAPTER X. 

ANNUAL PLANTS. 

What are known as Annuals, are those plants which 
owe their perpetuation, especially in the North, to seeds, 
or to bulbs which are taken up in the fall and started new- 
ly with every year. The plants grow up, flower, produce 
a new crop of seed or bulbs, and then die, all in one season. 
Although the lists of annual flowers in the catalogues 
are usually very extensive — some German catalogues 
containing lists of no less than three thousand different 
sorts — it is found that the number of those which really 
possess a high order of attractiveness is not very large. 
As the catalogues of dealers usually treat elaborately on 
the matter of varieties, merits, and adaptability, in the 
present book, I only take space to give some select lists 
to guide planters, referring the reader to the catalogues 
for additional matter. 

Some kinds embraced in the lists below, are perennials 
or biennials, but as they flower the first season from the 
seed, they are brought into this selection. 

In the lists, h stands for hardy annual, or sorts that 
may be treated as such ; h, h, stands for half hardy 
annuals ; t, for tender annuals. Directions for sowing are 
given in Part V 7 . 

A SELECTION OF THE CHOICER KINDS OF BEDDING AN- 
NUALS. 

Aster, h, h. Petunia, h, h. 

Balsam, h, h. Phlox Drummondi, h. 

Candytuft, h, Portulaca, t. 

Cockscomb, t. Snap Dragon, h. 

Larkspur, h. Stocks, li, h. 

Marigold, h. Sweet Alyssum, h. 

Mignonette, h. Verbena, h, h. 
Dwarf Nasturtium, h, h. Zinnia, h. 

Pansy, h. Sweet Pea. //. 



ANNUAL PLANTS. 



157 



A SELECTION OF BEDDING ANNUALS OF SECONDARY 
MEKIT. 



Abronia, h. 
Calliopsis, h. 
Callirrhoe, li. 

Campanula, h. 
Batchelor's Button, h. 
Collinsia, h. 

Dwarf Morning Glory, li. 
Centranthus, h. 
Clarkia, h. 
Ageratum, h. 
Esclischoltzia, Ti. 
Erysimum, h. 
Godetia, h. 

Swan River 



Sunflower, 7i. 
Lychnis, h, ~h. 
Lupine, h. 
Flora's Paint Brush, 
Gaillardia, h. 
Browallia, h, h. 
Four 0' Clocks, t. 
Nigella, h. 
Salpiglossis, h, h. 
Salvia, t. 

Mourning Bride, h. 
Sensitive Plant, t. 
Sweet Rocket, h. 
Daisy, h, h. 



A SELECTION OF ANNUALS OF CLIMBING AND RUNNING 
HABIT. 



Morning Glory, h. 
Cobaea scandens, t. 
Hyacinth Bean, t. 
Gourds, t. 
Cypress Vine, t. 



Maurandia, t. 
Nasturtium, h, h. 
Canary Bird Flower, 
Thunbergia, t. 
Scarlet Runner, t. 



A SELECTION OF ANNUALS WITH SHOWY FOLIAGE SUIT- 
ABLE FOR TROPICAL EFFECTS. 



Amaranthus, t. 
Canna, h, h. 
Chamsepeuce, h, 
Centaurea, h, li. 
Glaucium, h, 7i. 



Perilla, Ji, h. 
Castor Oil Bean, t. 
Golden Feather, h. 
Tobacco, t. 
Striped Maize, t. 



158 



ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 



A SELECTION OF ANNUALS SUITABLE FOR NATURALI- 
ZATION IN THE WILD GARDEN. 



Clarkia. 

Collomia. 

Erisymum. 

Eucharidium. 

Candytuft. 

Gypsophila, 

Godetia. 



Leptosiphon. 

Portulaca. 

Gilia, 

Poppy. 

Platystemon. 

Silene. 

Saponaria. 



A SELECTION OF ANNUAL BULBS, TUBERS, AND ROOTS. 



Caladium. 

Canna. 

Dahlia. 

Erythrina. 

Gladiolus. 



Madeira Vine. 

Oxalis. 

Tuberose. 

Tigridia. 

Kichardia. 



CHAPTEK XI. 



TENDER PERENNIAL PLANTS. 

By the help of artificial heat in green-houses, the list 
of natural materials for ornamental gardening is much 
enlarged. We go towards the equator and collect at- 
tractive species, and by preserving them from the cold 
in winter, can turn them out in summer, and thus are 
able to enjoy something of tropical vegetation in the 
North. Lack of space forbids giving much attention to 
this subject here, but several lists are introduced, in 
which are named the leading kinds of plants used for 
adorning pleasure grounds, and where further informa- 
tion is wanted, the reader is referred to books on flori- 
culture, and to the catalogues of florists. 



TENDER PERENNIAL PLANTS. 



159 



A SELECTION OF TENDER BEDDING PLANTS. 



Alyssum, Variegated. 

Alyssum, Double flowering. 

Abutilon. 

Century Plant. 

Ageratum. 

Alternanthera. 

Carnation. 

Cigar Plant (Cuphea). 

Coleus. 

Dusty Miller (Centaurea). 

Echeveria. 

Geranium, single, double, 

and variegated-leaved. 
Dew Plant (Mesembryan- 

themum). 



Gnaphalium lanatum. 

Heliotrope. 

Hibiscus. 

Lantana. 

Lobelia. 

Leucophyton. 

Othonna sedifolia. 

Salvia splendens. 

Verbena. 

Achyranthes. 

Sedums. 

Variegated Thyme. 

Variegated Stevia. 

Cannas. 

Caladiums. 



A SELECTION" OF PLANTS WITH SHOWY FOLIAGE SUIT- 
ABLE FOE EFFECTS IN SUB-TEOPICAL GARDENS. 



Acacia lophantha. 
Agaves in variety. 
Alsophila australis. 
Aralia macrophylla. 
Aralia papyrifera. 
Araucaria excelsa. 
Caladium. 
Canna. 

Chamaepeuce diacantha. 
Dracenas in variety. 
Echeveria Metallica. 
Erythina Crista-galli. 
Eerdinanda eminens. 
Ficus elastica. 
Dicksonia antarctica. 
Melianthus major. 



Musa Ensete. 
Papyrus antiquorum. 
Phormium tenax. 
Polymnia grandis. 
Solanum Warscewiczii. 
Wigandia macrophylla. 
Eicinus in variety. 

PALMS. 

Corypha australis. 
Carludovica palmata. 
Caryota in variety. 
Chamserops in variety. 
Cycas revoluta. 
Latania Borbonica. 
Phoenix in variety. 
Seaf orthia elegans. 



160 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

CHAPTER XII. 
MISCELLANEOUS NATURAL MATERIAL. 

Rocks and stones are not, like soil, absolutely neces- 
sary to garden making, yet the frequency with which 
these are met in attractive natural scenery, and their power 
in contributing to picturesqueness, entitle them, at 
the least, to be named among available garden materials. 
In other parts of this book, considerable attention is 
paid to their use in ornamental gardening. 

What is true of the ornamental value of rocks, is main- 
ly and in an enlarged degree true of water in garden 
and landscape scenery. Remove the sparkling river, 
lake, and spring, the gurgling rill, swift rapids and water- 
falls, out of nature, and she would be tlevoid of some 
of her most attractive charms. It is well, there- 
fore, to consider the ornamental value of water, when 
gardens are large enough to admit of it in some form. 

Some kinds of beasts, birds, and fishes add much to 
the charms of natural scenery. Cattle, sheep, and deer, 
grazing or else reclining in the shade, contribute an 
effect to scenes that without them would be tame. The 
sweet-voiced birds in the trees, the graceful water-fowl 
in the lake, or the schools of tame fishes within its 
bosom, are all of great value for adding to the interest 
of pleasure grounds. While in the majority of places it 
may not be practicable to do much in the way of intro- 
ducing these, yet their value should not be lost sight of 
where circumstances will allow of them. 

In addition to the natural garden making mate- 
rials which have now been named in this book, there 
are many other things, from the gravel of walks to the 
slate on the roof, that might be enumerated. But as 
these are used mostly as mere constructive material, 
there is little need of so doing. 



PART III. 

ARRANGEMENT. 

CHAPTEK XIII. 
GENERAL PRINCIPLES. 

NATURE AS A TEACHEK. 

As nature supplies the materials for making gardens, 
so also we may take lessons from her in arranging them. 
Still the primitive, natural style of arrangement can sel- 
dom be closely followed in the majority of places that 
are to be improved. The horticulturist takes the wild 
plants from fields and woods, and in improving them 
always finds in nature herself a co-worker, and succeeds 
in rearing some plants that are more beautiful than the 
wild. So natural arrangement may be studied, and in 
planning our comparatively restricted garden plats, the 
lessons thus gained may be modified to meet the wants of 
every case. Indeed, just so far as our improved plants 
and flowers are more ornamental than the parental wild 
forms, so do we possess more and richer material for 
creating garden effects, than is seen in nature. We may 
aim in ornamental gardening to exhibit nature idealized, 
rather than nature real. 

The fundamental difference between natural land- 
scapes, and made gardens, is, that in the former only 
natural materials exist, while in the latter much that is 
artificial, houses, walks, streets, etc., enters in, as a rule, 
exerting a strong influence on effects. Such being the 
case we are often led to a different course of action in 
gardening, than if we dealt solely with natural effects. 
(161) 



162 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

MAJOR AND MINOR FEATURES OF EMBELLISHMENT. 

It is important to observe that the nearer the mate- 
rials used for making ornamental gardens are to their 
natural condition, the more freely may they be used, if 
generally appropriate without offending good taste and 
vice versa. A town lot, for example, might be un- 
adorned, except with grass and not look distasteful, but 
if we plant every foot solid with the brightest art-im- 
proved flowers, the effect would then be shocking. Use a 
large proportion of grass — because it is a material near 
the natural condition, and a few improved flowers — be- 
cause they are more or less distantly removed from their 
primitive forms by culture, and both are better for 
these proportions. In the same class with grass are 
trees, shrubs, wild flowers, rocks, and water, and these, 
when not in a general way inappropriate, and are ar- 
ranged naturally, may be used almost without limit as 
major features of adornment in landscape gardening. 
But arrange trees and shrubs formally, or clip them into 
unnatural shapes, or make "geometrical" beds of im- 
proved flowers, or artifical terraces, walks and drives, or 
bring statuary, fountains, and the like into gardens, and 
it must, as a rule, be on a moderate scale or bad effects 
result. Such productions in gardening, like jewels in 
dress, must be used with discretion, having an appropri- 
ate setting, or their power to gratify is weakened. 

The famous gardens of Versailles, France, are only 
great in the respect that millions of francs have been 
spent in the stupid attempt to enlarge what should serve 
as minor embellishments into leading features, crowding 
the place with semi-natural and artificially clipped trees, 
formal beds, fountains, water-works, avenues, terraces, 
etc., until nothing is left to embellish. 

But a garden may be so essentially artificial, owing to 
smallness or the proximity of large buildings, etc., that 



GENERAL PRINCIPLES. 163 

an artificial style of embellishment may fitly prevail to a 
considerable degree, on the principle that the introduced 
garden features are yet decidedly subordinate in degree, 
to the general features — in this case strongly artificial. 
Thus urns and boxes filled with the brightest flowers 
may be used in roof, portico, or window gardening, to a 
degree that would be utterly out of place in the same 
proportions in general gardening. So too, conspicuous 
terraces and slopes are in better taste in close conjunction 
with buildings — especially large ones, than in the 
midst of a garden not naturally very undulating. 



In natural landscapes, it is the variety afforded by 
woodland, meadow, mountain and water, the light and 
shade in trees and plants, the sunshine and shadow, the 
cheerfulness in forms, foliage and flowers, the spark- 
ling of water, the sound of rills, and other of nature's 
attractions that charm us. And then in such a distribu- 
tion of these, as to render no two scenes alike, we find 
great delight for our love of variety. This should lead 
us to aim in gardening at introducing first, the peculiar 
natural and other beauty each garden can best support 
in good variety. Secondly, to act on nature's sugges- 
tion, and vary the effects of different gardens as they 
may allow. As no two natural landscapes are exactly 
alike, so no two gardens ever need be. 

CHARACTER AND EXPRESSION. 

Individual character and positive qualities are as desir- 
able in gardens as in architecture, or as they are in per- 
sons. In the garden, these chiefly depend on the shape 
of surface, the natural lay of the land, outlines, size and 
character of the buildings, size and arrangement of trees, 
walks, drives, etc. Some grounds are like some men, 



164 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

hard and abrupt in character, naturally, and will bear 
cultivation and a toning down of some of the projections. 
Others are found that possess grace of outlines, and an 
air of polish that will need little improving. Some lands 
are tame, flat, and spiritless, requiring all the gardener's 
arts to render them pleasing. Outside influences, such 
as the sea, trees, buildings, etc., in sight, also affect the 
character and appearance of the place. These in a sense 
are subject to our control, as respects giving them a set- 
ting, so to speak, by opening vistas towards them be- 
tween plantations as viewed from the interior, or shut- 
ting them out of view entirely. This is a matter requir- 
ing much attention when arranging a garden. 

One piece of ground may resemble another in general 
character, and yet be greatly varied in expression and 
tone. With the use of different styles and colors of 
trees, shrubs, and plants — in both foliage and flowers, 
we may control and vary expression in gardening to a 
marked degree, and change the appearance of different 
gardens otherwise essentially alike. We have power to 
clothe these, as we do our bodies with materials, styles, 
and colors to suit every taste. 

ORDER AND SIMPLICITY. 

These are chief elements of all true beauty. It is not 
uncommon to see gardens of pretence, that are complete 
muddles of grass, trees, walks, drives, arbors, etc. In 
nothing will order and simplicity count for more than when 
using garden-making materials with a view to creating 
beautiful effects about our homes and grounds. Through 
a desire for display, one is liable to overdo, by bringing 
too many objects into the garden and scattering them 
unduly. Simplicity implies neither poverty in materials 
or in design. A garden, or the parts of a garden, may 
be essentially simple in design, and elaborate in detail. 



GENERAL PRINCIPLES. 165 

UNITY AND HARMONY. 

A unity of the objects of a garden for contributing to 
a complete whole, a harmonizing of these, one with an- 
other, and a balance of the different features and sections, 
are important things to secure in planning an ornamental 
garden. Where marked features and bold contrasts are 
sought, there should also be agreeable, easy transition 
from one to another, without abrupt breaks to interfere 
with the harmony. In all large works abounding in de- 
tails, we crave for some such comprehensive plan, where- 
by the total may be retained while surveying the part. 

BREADTH AND EXTENT. 

Nothing is more desirable to secure in a garden than 
an air of breadth and repose, such as nature so often re- 
veals in her attractive landscapes. This can be done by 
keeping some conspicuous areas clear in their center, ex- 
cepting grass, and skirting them about with masses of 
woody and other growths. Natural landscapes usually 
suggest the idea of unlimited extent beyond what the 
eye sees at any point. The same thing is quite possible 
to secure in our gardens, by managing them to show 
ample breadth in parts, and some extended vistas be- 
tween the farthest limits, and then breaking the views 
along the outlines, by so planting that there may seem 
to be large areas unseen beyond projecting groups. 
There is such a thing as so managing an acre, that it 
shall seem as large as two or more acres. 

Where outside scenery, like mountains, water, neigh- 
boring landscapes, etc., can be "appropriated" to con- 
tribute to one's own garden, by so arranging the interior 
as to allow such scenery to show at its best from the gar- 
den, or even seem to be a part of it. This can often 
easily be accomplished, and by all means let it be done. 



166 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

RICHNESS AND FINISH. 

A certain air of richness and finish in the arrangement 
and keeping of the pleasure grounds, goes far towards 
raising them up to the highest ideal of such a place. 
Gracefulness of lines, elegance of ornaments, and a gen- 
eral appearance of finish in the composition and the effect 
of groups, are among the features that delight us. 
A place in even a partial state of disorder and neglect, 
shocks our sense of beauty. Due regard to the lit- 
tle matters of mown lawns, clean walks, carefully at- 
tended edges, absence of weeds and litter, cultivated 
borders, clean and well-painted architectural features, 
have such a marked effect on the pleasure a place may 
afford that they can not be lightly disregarded. 

CONVENIENCE. 

Let it be remembered that gardens are for use as well 
as ornament, hence they should be accessible and con- 
venient, and this should always be kept in mind in lo- 
cating different objects, walks, and drives. There is no 
more conflict between utility and beauty in the garden 
than elsewhere, and we may always aim to have it 
very convenient, and at the same time very handsome. 



CHAPTER XIV. 

THE HOME BUILDINGS. 

The house, because of its crowning importance, and 
for sanitary reasons also, should stand somewhat elevated 
above the common surface. The same is true in a some- 
what less degree of other buildings also. If grounds are 
level, or if the most suitable place for the building is not 
as high as would be desirable, the foundation walls may 



THE SURFACE. 167 

be carried to a proper elevation, then by using the soil 
excavated for cellars and foundations, and more if needed, 
for filling in, the surface may be brought as high as de- 
sirable, allowing properly for settling. As finished, the 
surface should slope away from every building, so that 
water from heavy rains and snows will be led from, in- 
stead of towards the walls, to cause dampness. 

The windows and verandas should be so situated as to 
command good views of the garden, and especially from 
the living rooms. We want the benefit of garden beauty 
in the home, when the state of the weather forbids walk- 
ing out, and at all other times. There is no more de- 
lightful time for enjoying the garden than during, 
or just after a rain, or in twilight, when approaching 
nightfall softens the outlines and casts a mellowness 
and quietness over the scene. The house and garden 
should both be planned with reference to the enjoyment 
of the view at such times as these. When buildings are 
too low, as seen from the street, or from the garden it- 
self, they have a depressing influence on the surround- 
ings, robbing the scene of much of the fine effect which 
belongs to every well designed structure, and not allow- 
ing the purely ornamental features of it to show for all 
they are worth. 



CHAPTER XV. 

THE SURFACE. 

That which may be called character, in an ornamental 
garden, is largely owing to the contour of its surface. 
It is realized at once that a flattish garden, which hap- 
pens to be lower through its center, has a tame look, 
while a similar piece, but slightly crowning along the 
middle, seems to possess character. Sometimes, however, 



168 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

a plot perfectly straight in its surface line is pleasing, 
and seems to fit a place better than any other could, but, 
as a rule, some variation from the straight line is prefer- 
able. 

In nature we find more delight in the bold hills and 
valleys than in level stretches of plain. This is because 
we love variety, and in undulations of the surface, we 
find a form of this, independent of the variety afforded 
by that which grows upon it. This fact suggests the de- 
sirability of introducing undulations, wherever the size 
of grounds and other circumstances will allow. 

For small grounds of a third of an acre and less, aside 
from buildings, the even or slightly crowning center is, 
as regards shape, the best. But even in these, in many 




Fig. 13. — AN UNDULATING BORDER. 

cases a decided departure may be made which, without 
destroying the identity of the style, will afford scope for 
bringing in not only considerable variety of surface in 
places, but also the means for greatly increasing the 
beauty in other ways. I refer to the making of a series of 
undulations which are to be treated as cultivated borders, 
for some years at least, to be planted with small trees, 
flowering and evergreen shrubs and plants. 

These borders should come mostly along the boun- 
daries, and may vary in width according to the size of the 
place. Figure 13 illustrates the outlines of one of these. 

The merits of such borders in creating interest and 
variety in a place, however small, are several. Firstly, 
by making them of varying widths throughout their 
length, the ground in them may be made more crown- 



THE SUKFACE. 



169 



ing in the wide parts than where they are narrower, thus 
causing a marked variation of the surface in the center 
lengthwise. Then the wavy outlines give variety in the 
shape of the border on the grounds, where it meets the 
grass. Further still, with affording room for planting 
numerous trees, shrubs and plants, of different forms, 
habits and seasons of 
attractiveness, a great 
addition to the interest 
and beauty of a place is 
possible. Besides these, 
if selections of trees, 
shrubs, etc., for plant- 
ing, the size they attain 
at maturity is kept in 
view, by placing tall- 
growing subjects in the highest parts, and dwarf kinds in 
the lower and narrower places, a still further means of 
creating variety is gained. 

Something similar to the boundary borders may also be 
made next to the house, at junctions of walks and other 
places, for the sake of having more of this feature, and 
to preserve a proper balance throughout the grounds. 




Fig. 14. 



-A RAISED BORDER AGAINST 
THE HOUSE. 




Fig. 15. — UNDULATED BORDER PLANTED WITH SHRUBBERY AND FLOWERS. 

Those next to the house may come along the foundation 
in front of the piazza, around bay windows, or in cor- 
ners made by angles in the shape of the house, somewhat 

8 



170 OKNAMENTAL GAKDENING. 

as indicated in figure 14, while the same method of ar- 
ranging the plants indicated for the marginal borders, 
may be employed here. 

Figure 15 shows the appearance of these planted un- 
dulations, with the effect of the variations in the size of 
growths alluded to. It will be seen that with all the 
advantages of this style for creating interest, there may 
still be maintained, even in small places, the open area 
of lawn, essential for imparting an air of breadth and 
repose. 

Another gain by such borders is, that with good ar- 
rangement, they hide the natural limits of a place, thus 
giving an idea of increased largeness of the garden 
area. Instead of the conspicuous sharp line caused 
by the fence meeting the ground, we may have an ac- 
tually longer, because wavy line, at the front for the eye 




Fig. 16. Fig. 17. Fig. 18. 

ADJUSTING GKODNDS TO THE LEVEL OF THE STREET. 

to rest upon, by this means ridding the place of an air of 
narrowness and angularity, and having instead, graceful 
lines of increased length, decidedly conducive to pleas- 
ing effect. 

No two places should receive the same treatment, as 
regards shape and planting of undulating borders. The 
plans figure 30 to 35 will give some idea regarding differ- 
ent ways of arrangement. It is surprising what an 
effect small rises and depressions, of even a few inches, 
will have in removing dullness, and imparting an air of 
grace and freedom to such borders or to mounds. In 
some places along the boundary there should be breaks 
extending to the fence. In selecting shrubs, pains should 
be taken to employ those of strikingly different appearance 



THE SURFACE. 



171 



^>sx tMt\e.^tS.(5n 



in leaf, flowers, and forms, for the sake of contrast, and 
to place those with beautiful foliage and habits, near the 
house, and other conspicuous places. 

Sometimes undulated borders may be employed to ad- 
vantage in another way. A case of a two-acre garden on a 
corner, where there was a continuous fall in the streets in 
a south and eastern direction, amounting to about fifteen 
feet, may be used to illustrate. It was considered desirable, 
owing to the natural 
lay of the land, to keep 
the surface of the gar- 
den nearly level, not- 
withstanding tbe fall in 
the street. Figures 16, 
17, 18, representing 
cross sections of the 
boundary undulations 
at these points, namely, 
where the street was a 
little higher than the 
general garden level, 
(figure 16). Where it 
was uniform with it 
(figure 17), and where 
considerably lower (fig- 
ure 18), will explain 
how the case was satis- 
factorily managed; the K S- 19-— plan or mound for trees. 
dotted lines in the engraving representing the garden 
surface. From the interior of the garden, hardly any idea 
of the descent outside, or of the streets themselves, can 
be gathered, which in this case was desirable, owing to 
the heavy traffic going on through one of them. 

Another effective style of surface variation sometimes 
introduced, consists of one or more mounds somewhat 
centrally located, and away from house and boundaries 




172 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

to be planted with trees and shrubs. The object may be 
the mere formation of a new style of garden variety, to 
hide a near approach or some unsightly object. Figure 
19 illustrates the idea, A representing the highest point, 
in this instance crowned with an arbor, and the other 
letters below, show lower levels downward. Such mounds 
introduced into grounds where the prevailing character 
of the surface is even, are more difficult to manage than 
the boundary mounds, or these against buildings, on 
account of their standing out in bold relief. The emer- 
gence of the elevation into the general level should be 
soft and gradual, a point respecting which too great care 
cannot be taken. Indeed it requires a great degree of 
good taste to manage these so they may appear natural. 

In gardens the surfaces of which are generally even, 
there is not that absolute necessity to have the grade 
strictly even over the whole lawn, that many seem to 
think. Certain gentle variations here and there, and es- 
pecially if trees and shrubs are set on the higher points, are 
in place in almost any grounds. But attention to smooth- 
ness and finish in minor respects is as much in order in 
such cases, as if the whole were made uniformly and 
precisely straight. 

In larged sized grounds, from an acre upwards, with 
rare exceptions, a departure from a surface of a gener- 
ally level character is to be preferred. Of three differ- 
ent kinds of surface usually to be met, namely : the 
level, the abruptly hilly, and a mean between these two, 
the latter is considered the best for making a large area 
interesting, and abounding in pleasing garden effects. 
The objection to the plane as a style of surface for a 
large garden is, that it yields no variety to the eye, in- 
dependent of what is brought upon it. If strong, bold 
effects, either in the planting or in undulating the sur- 
face are desired here, they are from the nature of things 
very expensive to make. As regards the other extreme, 



THE SURFACE. 173 

a Park may be so entirely comj3osed of large hills, that 
the very sight of the place, and the thought of following 
the up and down courses of the paths is enough to tire 
any but a strong person. With a mean between these 
two, we have the advantage of variety as afforded by 
the hills and vales without much inconvenience of ascent 
and descent. 

"Where grounds of this preferred character are to be 
improved, it is often easy to increase their effectiveness by 
drawing out some existing features more strongly. A 
prominence may be added to, at the expense of the val- 
ley bottom at the side, or one mound removed to increase 
the strength of another, or a lake be excavated to the 
advantage of the surroundings. Naturally such im- 
provements suggest heavy expenses at the outset. But 
let it be considered that every load of material moved in 
such operations counts for two, because a depression of 
one foot here, added to an elevation elsewhere, effects an 
actual change in both of two feet at the expense of 
moving one foot of earth. 

In every fair sized garden, prominent elevations to 
support shady arbors, and from which to get a bird's 
eye view of the scenery, and to catch cool breezes in hot 
weather are worth aiming to secure. For guidance in 
every kind of mound construction the brief suggestions 
accompanying figure 19 are in a general way applicable. 

In earlier times, as many European gardens yet bear 
evidence, it was thought that pleasure grounds to be 
beautiful, must present a very artificial appearance. 
Surfaces that were naturally quite level were so managed 
as to present a series of terraces and slopes. Trees were 
not only all of them planted in formal lines, but they 
were by hundreds distorted into outrageous patterns by 
clipping. The world moves, and landscape gardeners to- 
day, although not disposed to set aside the old formal 
style in every case, as a rule insist that the nearer they 



174 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

can keep to nature's ways of using nature's materials, 
the more pleasing will be the result. What is admired 
most in nature is the very freedom and informality, which 
in by-gone times was avoided. In severely formal gar- 
dens the picture may strike us with delight at first sight, 
but being unchangeable, we tire of it in time, unless there 
are counter-balancing features to offset the formality. 

Where a garden is on a hillside, and the natural con- 
tour is too abrupt for beauty or convenience, the ter- 
race and slope arrangement, with stairways in the walks, 
sometimes come in use to advantage. We recall an admi- 
rable illustration of the use of this style in the terraces and 
slopes in the Queen's Park at Glasgow. Partly for con- 
venience, and partly for effect in relieving the sameness 
that would exist in a not very large park, by the pres- 
ence of too many natural hills, there was contructed a 
series of these on a large scale, which for their general 
fitness, simplicity and beauty, are most charming. There 
is a well-known and most delightful Italian garden at 
Wellesley, the estate of H. H. Hunnewell, Esq., near 
Boston, Mass., constructed at the head of a lake on a 
steep bluff, which very strikingly shows that in some places 
a contribution of formal terraces, slopes, clipped trees, 
balustrades, stairways, and vases may be introduced as a 
minor feature of an extensive private park, with very 
pleasing effect. Small plats in towns, or even small 
public squares, hemmed in with buildings, may, with 
fountains or other artificial objects, walks, etc., be so 
essentially artificial in appearance, and strongly in- 
fluenced by architectural lines, as to very properly ad- 
mit of considerable formality in the arrangement. 

The guiding principle in every instance where the 
making of terraces and slopes is invited, should be to in- 
troduce them only as objects of embellishment, and where 
the surroundings show some other features of great bold- 
ness and strength. They should seem to be secondary 



THE SUKFACF. 175 

in importance and effect to something else, be that some- 
thing buildings, towers, monuments, prominent hills, or 
large adjacent areas devoted to a natural style of effects. 
Terrace and slope combinations should, with rare ex- 
ceptions, be characterized by a great degree of simplicity 
in their arrangement. The complicated pretty produc- 
tions in this line, sometimes met with in old school gar- 
dens in Europe, are intolerable to every one of correct 




Fig. 20. — TEKKACE WORK ADORNED WITH TREES, SHRUBS, AND FLOWERS. 

taste. The use of trees and shrubs in different places 
for balancing the parts and relieving the geometrical 
lines, is very desirable, provided they are dispersed with 
taste. Figure 20 shows a simple terrace slope, embel- 
lished with roses or other shrubs with good effect. 
There is also shown a row of trees and a line of gerani- 
ums, or other showy plants, on the level above in front 
of the balustrade. Such a method of embellishment 
goes far towards ridding these constructions, of what is 



176 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

to many persons one of the greatest objections, namely, 
the prevailing blankness of the slopes as frequently seen. 
What is called a Sunken Garden consists of depressed 
terraces of one or more levels — square, round or other 
shape — constructed lower than the general surface, and 
meeting with it by some well-formed, easy slopes. On 
these lower levels flowers, shrubs, vases, fountains and 
so forth are displayed, all designed to be viewed from 
above. Sometimes there are walks and stairs leading 
down to the lower levels. The making of such gardens is 
recommended only with caution, as rarely can they be 
made to serve as good a purpose, even for the sake of in- 
creased variety, as the same area and conditions treated 
more naturally. 

I have sometimes employed a style of small terraces 

retained by a stone coping with good effect, as shown in 

figure 21. Where some bold 

object in a town or other 

t garden seems essential, to 

W&t',~-Bl counteract the influence of 

": : ' , - ^^^^^PP? large buildings, this terrace 

■V.'-'-jJjBP*^ placed in the center of a 

„. „, walk or elsewhere serves a 

Fig. 21.— CIRCULAR TERRACE IN A ,_„ 

walk retained by a stone good purpose. 1 he center 
COPING " may support a vase, or piece 

of statuary placed on a base or a fountain. Properly the 
ground should be rounded up a little towards the object 
in the center. A bed of brilliant flowers extending around 
the terrace next to the coping, save a narrow strip of 
grass between, produces a fine effect. The remainder 
of the surface should be in grass. 

There are ways of treating boundary lines and fences 
often met with in Europe, which might at times be adopt- 
ed in improving our own grounds. I refer to the plan of 
contriving to keep the boundary and other fences out of 
sight, as shown in figures 22 and 23. By such means, 



WALKS AKD DRIVES. 



m 



large outside areas may often be appropriated in effect, 
aud a garden of a few acres seems to embrace large out- 
side areas because the boundaries are not visible. Carry- 
ing with them as they do the idea of being works of art, 
terraces, and slopes of all kinds should be made with ex- 
actness in their levels, and with as straight lines and 





Fig. 22. — BOUNDARY WALL SET OUT 
OF SIGHT FROM THE GARDEN. 



Fig. 23. 



-A SUNKEN CROSS- 
FENCE. 



as true curves as possible, and for the same reason it is 
necessary to bestow a greater degree of care upon their 
keeping than is required by most other styles of garden 
work. Scarcely anything in the way of a garden is 
more intolerable than the pretentious, formal work, in 
a state of slovenly neglect. 



CHAPTER XVI. 



WALKS AND DRIVES. 



When well located, walks and drives convey the idea of 
habitableness, imparting an air of welcome and freedom 
to a home and grounds, and in no slight degree seem to 
promote the beauty of a place. 

The most important walks and drives are those at the 
entrance. If these can be laid out, to approach the 
home or buildings from such a direction, that more than 
one side of the building will strike the eye at once, it 
should always be done. Architects ask that a house be 



178 



OKXAMENTAL GARDENING. 



thus seen to show it at its best. We should aim to make 
the first view of a residence and grounds as favorable as 
possible. 

In places of the smallest size, where the door is near 
the street, a straight walk is about the only one that can 
be devised, and so of a drive to the stable. When the 
door of the house is twenty or more feet from the 
entrance gate, curves may usually be introduced by 
having the gate not directly in front of the door, but a 
little to one side. Such an arrangement tends to keep 




Fig. 24. Fig. 25. 

SHOWING ADVANTAGE OF CURVED WALKS AND DRIVES OVER STRAIGHT. 

the area in front of the house larger, when the walk is 
set to one side ; as a result, the house shows to better 
advantage, than if the main front plat were kept smaller 
by a straight walk encroaching upon it. The house in 
figure 24, it is at once seen to have a finer setting with a 
curved approach, than if the part in front of it were to 
be narrowed by a straight walk, as shown by the dotted 
lines. 

This principle is also illustrated in figure 25, both in 
walks and carriage-drives. Although here, by making 
curved walks, there is one more leading to the house than 
if they were straight ; still with the foreground thus 
arranged, the buildings are seen to much better advan- 
tage over the stretch of lawn, embellished with trees, 
shrubs, and flowers (omitted in the engraving), than if 
the scene were cut up by the hard lines of a straight walk. 



WALKS AKD DRIVES. 



179 



And the general improvement in the appearance of the 
grounds is also much better, for instead of increasing 
the angular outlines — strong enough already in the build- 
ings and boundaries — by making tbe walks straight, we 
curve them gracefully, and thus induce variety in the 
lines. The curves are brought in such a way, that we 
secure that most desirable of all garden cpialities, breadth 
just wdiere it is most needed, namely: in the foreground 
of the main building. This simple point is one that ac- 
counts for much of that indescribable difference in places, 
which makes some appear much finer than others, with 
the use of about the same advantages and materials in both. 
But if on the one hand there may be a liability to not 
employ curves often enough for good effect, on the other 
I I L 




Fig. 26. Fig. 27. 

POORLT ARRANGED CURVED WALKS, SKETCHED FROM ACTUAL EXAMPLES. 

there is danger, when curves are used, of making them 
ungraceful or indirect, in a way to serve neither beauty 
or convenience. Figures 26 and 27 illustrate, two ex- 
amples of this kind. Tortuous walks like these prove 
worse than useless in one sense, for there will be a con- 
stant inclination, if not very frequent practice, to cut 
across the lot, as indicated by the dotted lines, instead 
of using the walks. People when they are in hurry, and 
especially children, have little respect for long, winding, 
inconvenient curves, introduced for beauty, but in such 
cases sadly lacking it, because they lack utility. 



180 ORNAMENTAL GAKDENINTG. 

One of the best possible remedies for the common 
trouble of having grass verges walked upon in private 
and public grounds, is to place the walks just where they 
are needed, and whether curved or otherwise, let tbem 
run as directly from point to point as possible, and then 
to make tbem of a material comfortable to the foot. It 
may be stated, however, that should this bad practice be 
persisted in, a protector made like a croquet arch, only 
much heavier and larger, and set either lengthwise, or at 
short distances apart crosswise, along the edge, will effect- 
ually break it up. 

In figures 24 and 25 it may be observed that the curves 
are so direct, graceful, and easy, that there would be no 
inducement to leave them, for gaining a more direct route 
from point to point. The drive in figure 25 is curved 
considerably towards the house it is true, but it is used 
chiefly for carriages, and under the circumstances this is 
allowable. 

A walk or drive of serpentine form, like the one on the 
right-hand side of figure 27, is very faulty. Any series 
of bends closely together like these, showing two bays or 
projections of about tbe same size, from any one point 
are poor in effect. Every curve should be continuous, 
and easy to be kept by pedestrian or horse. If the bends 
are too short, the projections of drives are sure to be 
shaved by wheels, while weeds will spring up in their 
inner portions. 

While, as a rule, walks should never be put down ex- 
cept where there is a real or apparent need of them, still 
it is sometimes the case that they may be made to serve 
largely for adornment. Figure 28 sIioavs a case of this 
kind of a small garden of square outlines, lying adjacent 
to a large public building. The plat is skirted in its 
border by a belt of trees and shrubs, and a conspicuous 
circular bed of evergreens occupies a central position. 
This simple arrangement of neat, well-kept walks, cut 



WALKS AND DRIVES. 



181 



into the level sward, harmonizes with the strong angular 
features that exist in the surroundings — which are, it 
may be said, too strong to be overcome in effect, by ordi- 
nary natural arrangements. In this way is found a 
pleasing kind of ornamentation for the place, which it 
would be hard to equal by any other means. It should 
be observed in this case, that the walks are not so prom- 
inent or so close together, but that they convey the 
idea of subordination to buildings, trees, grass, and 




Fig. 28. — WALKS USED EOK EMBELLISHMENT. 

streets, hence their fitness is easily accounted for. Were 
the square plats between walks filled with flowers or 
numerous vases, etc., instead of, as at present, mostly 
plain grass, the present fine effect would be largely lacking. 

Where the lawn throughout the grounds is kept closely 
mowed, so that walking is always comfortable, except in 
wet weather or during a heavy dew, there is little call for 
walks besides those leading to and between chief points 
of interest. Shady grass walks kept well mown, with 
masses of shrubs and flowers at the sides, are really as 
pleasurable parts of a garden as can well be provided. 

Sometimes one or more'straight walks, or avenues, are 
in place in gardens or parks, as for instance along the 



182 



ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 



top of an extended, formal slope. There are places 
where such a walk or drive, if following a nice grade and 
showing its entire length from the end, presents a mag- 
nificent appearance, especially if there is enough grass at 



flowers are used in abundance some distance back from 
the edge, to be seen over the intervening grass. Walks 
or avenues of this character can hardly be considered 
complete, without some striking objective point near or 
distant, either real or apparent at each end, such as a 
building, monument, fountain, or it may be only a piece 
of statuary, or a large vase. Small objects, like the last 




Fig. 29.— OBJECTIVE POINTS IN WALKS. 

named, may be given a suitable setting near the ends of 
such walks, or at junctions with cross-walks, as shown in 
figure 29, by placing the object on a low, circular terrace 
of green sward, retained either by a stone coping, or by 
turf sloping sharply down to the common level. For 
smaller and short, straight walks, a tree of striking foli- 
age or form, or an evergreen clipped into pleasing shape, 
a flower-bed, arbor, vase, or seat, may serve as a terminal 
object. Such objects may also, if the walk or avenue be 
long, be brought in at points* not too close together, 
along the sides, to break monotony. 



USE" OE GKASS, TitEES, SHRUBS, ETC. 183 

As regards width, long, straight walks or drives should 
be wider than curved ones, because their beauty depends 
in a measure upon boldness, and this is secured by 
breadth. Ordinary walks are made anywhere from three 
feet wide (and sometimes as narrow as two feet), up- 
wards, according to their place and the size of the garden. 
Bear private walks may be the narrowest. General garden 
walks, if curved, may be four to six feet wide, and straight 
approach walks, four to eight feet, while terrace or prin- 
cipal walks in large pleasure grounds and parks, may be 
eight to fifteen feet or more in width. Five feet is con- 
sidered a good width for ordinary purposes. Drives may 
range all the way from eight to fifty feet or more in 
width, according to purpose and size of grounds. Ten 
to fourteen feet for ordinary drives in private grounds, 
with branches or back drives at eight to ten feet is 
about right. In large grounds, cemeteries, and parks, 
twenty to thirty-five feet, are the usual widths of drives. 



CHAPTER XVII. 

THE USE AND COMBINATIONS OF GRASS, TREES, 
SHRUBS, ETC. 

In natural landscapes the common grasses serve the 
important purpose of supporting or affording a setting 
for other growths. They thus fill a place for which no 
other plants could serve so well. It would be better for 
the soil to be clothed with a carpet of green sward and 
treeless, than to be covered with trees and plants, to the 
exclusion of grass. Still, the custom that prevails in 
some places, of having only grass to ornament the 
grounds, is by no means to be commended, because of the 
better effect and greater interest attainable, through using 
some of the endless array of beautiful natural materials 



[Hi OKNAMENTAL GABDEtflKG. 

at our service, together with the grasses. Grass to the 
ground, is as carpets or tiles to a lloor, indispensable in 
themselves, yet no one considers a room furnished with- 
out the addition of furniture and decorated walls. Neither 
should we he content with simply a carpet on our grounds, 
when handsome leafy furniture is so easily procured. 

The lawn, to he most satisfactory, should present a 
green, velvety appearance throughout the season, and 
this is gained through a suitable condition of the soil, 
properly stocking it with grass, and attention to mowing, 
watering, etc. Instructions respecting these matters are 
given in other parts of this book. A common error in 
garden arrangement is found, where trees are planted 
close and never thinned, causing in time by their shade 
death to the grass underneath. The only remedy in such 
a case is the removal of a sufficient number of trees, to 
admit enough air to supply the wants of the grass. Good 
lawns will bear considerable shade, and enough trees can 
remain to afford ample shelter for comfort, and have fine 
grass besides. 

For ornamental purposes in roof, and all kinds of archi- 
tectural gardening, the lawn grasses are undervalued. A 
good illustration of their utility for such purposes, is 
seen in a public roof-garden over the market in Edin- 
burgh, Scotland, where a large bed of grass, or in other 
words a patch of lawn, is employed, along with elaborate 
flower-beds, all surrounded by low stone copings. \Vhile 
the flowers are more showy, the presence of some cleanly 
mown grass in such a place tends to form a more perfect 
whole, than would otherwise be possible. 

It is upon trees, shrubs, and flowering plants, that we 
depend for the chief attractions of our pleasure grounds. 
No garden can be considered properly furnished without 
some of these. Imagine our earth robbed of her arboreal 
beauty, and its appearance would be little better than 
that of a desert. 



USE OF GRASS, TREES, SHRUBS, ETC. ±85 

Starting out to use trees, shrubs, and flowering plants 
to embellish our grounds, it is a matter of first impor- 
tance to gain an adequate idea of the kinds and nature 
of the materials. No one can enter upon a full exami- 
nation of this subject, without being impressed with the 
large number of, and the great variety in natural and 
improved growths, suitable for such purposes. In Part 
II may be found lists and descriptions of most kinds of 
these that are adapted to the American climate. 

To compose fine garden effects, we must take into ac- 
count the prevailing and strongly marked characteristics 
possessed by the different materials at hand. I refer 
more especially to the differences found in the colors, 
sizes, and forms of foliage and flowers, and the great 
variety in the habit of growth of different trees and 
shrubs. 

As alluded to in Chapter XIII, we have advantages in 
making beautiful garden scenes, unpossessed by nature, 
in her most charming compositions, owing to the greatly 
increased number and beauty of kinds obtained through 
culture. We find nothing similar to and as strikingly 
attractive in nature as an improved Purple-leaved 
Beech, a Cut-leaved Oak, a Variegated Cornelian Cherry, 
or any of hundreds of other improved trees and shrubs. 
Not only is nature's own ample storehouse at our com- 
mand, but there are besides a multitude of variations 
from the best she possesses, that have been obtained 
through culture. 

As between the two forms of woody growth, trees and 
shrubs, too little regard is yet paid by planters to the 
great value of the latter class. This is especially the 
case as regards their eminent fitness for embellishing 
small grounds. In beauty and diversity of form and foli- 
age, they equal the larger trees. Most of them, in addition 
to other merits, produce an abundance of flowers of great 
beauty and sweetness, and in the different species, yield 



186 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

a succession throughout the whole season, while the ever- 
green kinds are attractive both summer and winter. As 
a rule, all the shrubs grow easily, and after transplanting 
develop a full measure of beauty in half the time re- 
quired by trees. With all these qualities, their adapt- 
ability by nature to the limited areas of the majority of 
American home gardens, may be added as a leading rec- 
ommendation of this class. 

In employing trees and shrubs for ornament, such a 
selection and arrangement should be aimed at, as will, 
for the number used, ensug-e the greatest possible degree 
of beauty and interest attainable. 

As we come to the matter of arranging these, we may 
receive useful lessons from nature. In a study of natural 
landscapes, it may be observed that trees, shrubs, and 
plants bear relation to each other here, about as follows : 
First, in the form of groups and thickets; second, in 
open or somewhat scattered arrangements ; third, as 
single, isolated specimens ; and then fourth, as being 
wholly absent in places. If these points are kept in 
mind when arranging our pleasure grounds, we need not 
diverge far from a right course in the main features of the 
work. Indeed, it is the attempt, either unconscious or 
otherwise, to make a garden by limitation to some one 
or other uses or non-uses of material as specified, that 
causes so much unsatisfactory work in this line. 

Let it be noted at the outset, that the partly open fea- 
ture of a landscape is most essential, if we would have 
beautiful gardens. Without this, there can never be 
anything but a confused effect, and without it the beauty 
and dignity of the rich woody and other plants used is 
also largely lost. The open area affords a field for view- 
ing the garden-beauty, a space for admitting cool breezes 
and sunshine; a play-ground for shadows, and then, most 
important of all, that degree of general repose and 
breadth, without which no garden can be satisfactory. 



USE OP GRASS, TREES, SHRUBS, ETC. 187 

Next to the open area in gardens, the group easily 
holds a first place, as an effective means of employing 
embellishing plant material, and has been called the key- 
note of modern natural gardening. Whether as found in 
nature, or as it may be formed, the chief merits of the 
group consists in its boldness; the power gained for aug- 
menting individual beauty of kinds, by clustering to- 



Fig. 30. — NATURAL GROUPING OP DECIDUOUS AND EVERGREEN TREES 
AND SHRUBS. 

gether of numbers -of subjects alike or nearly so, and the 
picturesqueness which may be created by contrasting 
groups of one class, with similar groups or marked in- 
dividuals of other classes, in what may be called com- 
pound groups. To analyze the beauty of natural masses, 
it may be seen that this comes largely from the peculiar 
way in which different kinds are combined. It may be 
observed that in such groups individual kinds generally 
gravitate towards one or more centers, with usually a 



188 OEKAMENTAL GAEDENIXCJ. 

scattering and intermingling of these between such 
group-centers, something as is shown in figure 30, which 
illustrates a natural arrangement. 

From this largely results the impressive beauty so 
commonly found in nature, arising from strong individual 
effects and marked contrasts, as different kinds blend 
with each other. 

This principle of minor groups within large groups, 
should often be adopted in garden arrangements. Under 
most circumstances a dozen or a hundred trees, shrubs, 
or plants, if arranged on gome such basis, Avill be pro- 
ductive of immeasurably better effects than the same 
scattered about or else mixed promiscuously. 

The right idea in the garden is, to bring together such 
kinds as possess contrasting qualities, arranging these 
group against group, with a scattering of individuals 
here and there, but all done for making the distinguish- 
ing and often strongly marked characteristic of one kind, 
relieve and offset those of others. As shown in the 
natural group of figure 30, dark Evergreens may offset 
the Beeches of lighter foliage, while the colored bark 
has its effect of contrast, or projecting masses of the 
former stand against the Maples with finely contrasting 
shrubs to the front. 

Purple Beeches might be brought in conjunction with 
the light-colored Silver Maples, with dark-green English 
Elms near by for heavy effect. Some Weeping Willows 
along the margin of water, may be backed by a few 
spiry Lombardy Poplars ; pyramidal Spruces, clustered 
with trees having low, round heads, and so on. 

In shrubs, the small-leaved Privet, or cut-leaved Elder, 
could go against the large-leaved Viburnums or Weigelas, 
or we might use the light-green Thunberg's Spiraea, next 
to the dark-leaved Japan Quince, with the Virginia 
Fringe, with its large foliage at the back. The pure 
white flowers of Thunberg's Spiraea also contrast well 



USE OF GRASS, TREES, SHRUBS, ETC. 189 

with the brilliant scarlet of the quince flowers, both 
coming in together. Beautiful effects spring from com- 
bining differently tinted species and varieties of the same 
genus, for instance: the light and dark Spruces, Pines, 
and others, may be contrasted with one another, and so 
on with other different kinds indefinitely. 

In the matter of general style and location of groups, 
it is obvious, as we consider the importance of retaining 
certain open stretches of lawn, that as a rule the masses 
must, in all small places, be set along the margins of the 
grass plat, keeping the center open. 

But such arrangements correspond in principle with 
nature's most effective groupings. The most delightful 




Fig. 31. — ARRANGEMENT OF TREES, SHRUBS, AND FLOWERS, THE 
LETTERS INDICATING THE KINDS. 

natural landscapes show open vistas, skirted by margins 
of woody growth, either near or distant, which limit and 
support the former. On the laying out of marginal 
borders, some attention has been given in Chapter XV, 
as illustrated by figures 13 to 18. 

Figure 31, illustrating a section of such a border, 
shows the method of arranging the different materials. 
In this figure it may be noticed that the outside line of 
woody growths is less regular than that of the border 



190 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

margins, and the spaces between are filled with hardy 
flowering plants. 

While the grouping of trees and shrubs, and herba- 
ceous plants in marginal borders finds a wide adaptability, 
it is of special value in embellishing small gardens, even 
the very smallest. 

There are numerous shrubs, both deciduous and ever- 
green, that are highly ornamental, bub which seldom 
grow more than a few feet high (see figure 1 and explana- 
tions), that are ordinarily adapted for creating bold and 
pleasing effects in the smallest grounds by properly 
grouping them. With the use of these, striking effects 
may be secured in the planting, to give a fine setting to 
the architecture of the place, whatever the style of this 
may be. They should be massed somewhat closely, al- 
ways taking future size into account in marginal borders, 
and also next to the house as before alluded to. Then if 
there is room, one or two shade trees of moderate size 
may also be set in some part of the open area. By such 
means it is possible to secure, even in small gardens, about 
every feature that enters into the most extensive natural 
landscape, and with proportionally as good an effect. 

In pleasure grounds of larger size, there is increased 
scope for introducing variety both as to the style of the 
groups and their materials. Here we may have a larger 
selection of kinds, for the increased space also allows the 
use of larger growers. In grounds of the largest size, 
trees and shrubs of every kind and size may be admitted, 
and here the most varied effects, from very delicate to 
bold, are possible. 

In all fair-sized places, the boundary masses may jut 
inwards to a considerable distance here and there, and 
some isolated clumps be introduced for creating minor 
vistas. Views opening to the longest possible distance 
in some directions, and then broken by projections and 
masses in others, hiding some parts of the grounds, pro- 



USE OF GRASS, TREES, SHRUBS, ETC. 191 

duce some of the most desirable effects that can be at- 
tained in landscape gardening. It is a special merit of 
the grouping system, that it tends to give an enlarged 
idea of the size of the place. Grounds with the boun- 
dary shut off by masses, and these arranged with irregular 
outlines, will look larger than they would if the boun- 
dary line were plainly in sight. 

Figure 32 illustrates an irregular group upon the 
lawn. This form and arrangement is adapted to trees 




Fig. 32. — GROUPING OP LARGE AKD SMALL GROWTHS. 

or shrubs of any size, but especially to the formation of 
a thicket with small shrubs. 

It is usually the case that, no matter how few trees, 
shrubs, or plants may be employed in any place, they 
will be more effective if brought together in groups. 
Three, four, or six, for instance, will serve a better pur- 
pose thus treated, than if set in a row or scattered as far 
apart as possible. Figure 33 shows some different ways 
of arranging a small number of shrubs in groups, and 
these will readily suggest the making of groups of a 
larger or smaller number. It may be said that Eoses, 
Rhododendrons, Pasonies, and many other things, should 
hardly ever be used in any other way than in masses. 

In all work of grouping, a leading aim should be to 



192 



ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 



invest the compositions with an air of grace and freedom. 
This is a point which the inexperienced would do well 
to heed, for it is easy to fail right here. In nature, 
bushes and trees, herbs and shrubs, blend together in the 
freest manner, while the edges of the group commonly 
round off with exquisite finish; a good example which 
we should strive to imitate. 

Where a beautiful garden fronts on a public highway, 
it is as commendable in the owner to allow passers on the 
street to get glimpses of the interior, as it is to have 




Fig. 33. — DIFFERENT WATS OF ARRANGING A SMALL NUMBER OF PLANTS. 

thought of the effect of a fine house upon a neighbor- 
hood. But then a garden is designed chiefly for the 
pleasure of the owner's family and friends, and he likes 
to enjoy it in seclusion. It is a luxury to sit at ease, or 
swing in a hammock on a summer's day, and drink in 
the sights, sounds, and perfumes peculiar to a garden, 
without fear of interruption, and this seclusion should 
be provided for. Figure 34 shows how masses may be set 
so as to give the public some benefit of a garden, and yet 
render portions of it secluded. 

By grouping, complete effects may be produced more 
quickly than in any other manner of planting. Whether 
dealing with trees or shrubs, we may plant very thickly 
at the start, by using at first twice or three times as 



USE OF GKASS, TREES, SHRUBS, ETC. 193 

many shrubs of each kind as will finally be needed, or 
else by locating the choicer and long-enduring kinds at 
distances that will accommodate their increase for many 
years, and then fill out more or less between these with 
some of the cheap kinds of rapid growth, which are at 
the same time very handsome. The extra shrubs in both 
cases to be removed as the others demand the space. In 
this way masses will be made to look solid and complete 
immediately after setting. 

The planting of trees and shrubs in groups affords the 
means of promoting rapid development and beauty. The 
ground under them may, in fact, ought to be, for some 



Fig. 34. — PLANTING EOR BOTH OPENNESS AND SECLUSION. 

years at least, kept cultivated, and if this is well done and 
an application of manure be made occasionally, they will 
reach a large size in half the time they would if stand- 
ing in the grass. Then, too, we may feel safe against 
summer drouths, if conveniences for watering are not at 
hand, for in such cultivated borders trees suffer little 
from dryness in the severest seasons of drouth. 

Clumps are desirable for breaking the transitions from 
terrace banks to natural slopes, and in other ways to rec- 
oncile discrepancies in the surface. They may also well 
be introduced for breaking the outlines of garden or 
foundation walls, or for hiding unsightly objects. 
9 



194 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

The gain that comes from massing evergreens and other 
trees in a way to shelter the grounds and buildings, is 
worth considering. It is really surprising to see what 
effect Spruces, Pines, Hemlocks, etc., planted freely in 
the direction of prevailing winds has, both on the com- 
fort of the home in winter, and on the ability of many 
choice kinds of trees and shrubs to withstand the severity 
of the cold ; these, if exposed, would die outright. By 
thus giving shelter, the number of kinds of trees that 
will thrive in the North is greatly increased. Many of 
our beautiful native trees and shrubs, that in their wild 
state thrive in the shelter of forests, are erroneously 
called tender in the North, simply because they will not 
succeed in the absence of the shelter of trees. 

From the close grouping it is but a short step to the 
open or scattered arrangement in planting. A type of this 
style is to be found in an open, light, and breezy grove, 
where there is almost as much of sunshine as of shade. 
This style may often be brought in as the termination of 
one or more points of closer groups, and in gardening the 
two may often be closely associated. While irregularity 
and rugged picturesqueness easily become characteristics 
of the close group, a different form of beauty, embracing 
greater gentleness, marks the scattering system, for in 
this, each tree or plant is allowed to more fully develop 
its individual beauty and form. Most of the instruc- 
tion and ideas advanced, and illustrations given, respect- 
ing ordinary groupings are, however, applicable to the open 
groups, by merely making allowance for the peculiarities 
of each member as regards compactness and openness. 

The scattered cluster is not so well adapted to small 
gardens as is the closer group, because its characteristic 
beauty depends largely upon ample space, yet by confin- 
ing the selections to the smaller growing kinds, very 
complete effects are attainable by this pleasing system, 
even in a limited space. Figure 35 shows some of the 



USE OF GRASS, TREES, SHRUBS, ETC. 195 

smaller growing Pines, Yucca filamentosa, and Deutzia 
gracilis, the latter kept clipped to a rounded form, ar- 
ranged in this style on a lawn. 

Where there are mounds, a scattering of either ever- 
greens or deciduous shrubs in open clumps over conspicu- 
ous slopes is proper. It is the free scattering of Juni- 
pers and Firs over the mountain sides skirting the Hudson 
Eiver, in some places, that lends to the scenery it great 
charm. A rise in the garden may support half a dozen 




Fig. 35. — SCATTERINGS OF DWARF PINES, TUCOA.S, AND DEUTZIA GRACILIS 
IN CITY LAWNS. 

or more Savins or other evergreens, or some plants of 
striking foliage like the Wild Olive or Weigela, planted 
near the crown, and in this way produce a good effect. 
At the edge of an abrupt bluff may be placed two or 
three Camperdown Elms or other bold weeping trees. 
Such kinds as love moisture, like the Willows and 
Alders may be effectively disposed by planting in similar 
clumps along the water's edge or in low places. 

Where it is desirable to plant trees along the sides of 
long garden walks and avenues, for shade, scattering them 
along irregularly, allowing some complete breaks here 



196 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

and there, will produce a better effect than to make 
formal lines with the trees at uniform distances apart. 
There is a striking illustration of this in the strong con- 
trast afforded between the irregularly wooded north 
drives in Hyde Park, London, where along the sides 
for miles the trees are arranged in scattered groups, and 
similar avenues in other parks with formal lines of 
trees at their sides. The same idea is true generally of 
trees to be planted along the boundaries of large grounds. 
They will create a much better effect if grouped openly, 
as in figure 36, than if set, as is often done, in a straight 




Fig. 36.— PLANTING ON BOUNDABIES. 

line. It is seldom indeed the case, anywhere outside 
of narrow stieets, that formal lines might not well give 
way to informal scattering clusters. 

Throughout the grounds, open groups of large trees 
may jut out from heavy marginal plantations, or occupy 
places by themselves surrounded by the open lawn, or 
they may be in some parts brought in to form groves. 
Near the junctions of walks and drives, or in bends of 
these, are also suitable places for trees thus disposed. 
But the open grouping system of planting should never 
be confounded with the faulty " dot-a- tree-everywhere " 
system sometimes met with, and in which such essential 
garden features as open areas and vistas seem to never 
have been even thought of by the planters. 

The planting of trees, shrubs, etc., as isolated speci- 
mens, either singly or two or three near each other, is often 
desirable. It may be observed that in nature isolated 
specimens generally are, in effect, siibordinate to masses 



tJSE OF GRASS, TREES, SHRUBS, ETC. 



197 



either near, as if broken away from them, or farther off. 
Usually they occupy a place somewhat central, with 
masses skirting the horizon around, and it will be safe to 
have regard to this point in similarly bringing trees and 
shrubs into our gardens. In selecting single specimens 
we should be governed by the size of the grounds to be 
planted. An Oak makes a grand tree for a large garden, 
but a Kilmarnock or Bosemary-leaved "Willow would be 
more suitable for a small town lot, while the effect of 
one of the latter would be almost lost in the larger area. 
A few Austrian or White Pines make a splendid show in 




Fig. 37. — ILLUSTRATING THE ERROR OP NOT TAKING FUTURE GROWTH 
INTO CONSIDERATION. 

a roomy cemetery, or any place of broad area, but the 
small Junipers, Spruces, or Mahonias are greatly prefer- 
able for small grounds. Some of the most common mis- 
takes in choosing trees is in such unsuitable selections. 
We often see young trees, and evergreens particularly, of 
strong growing kinds, planted so near to walks or build- 
ings that after some years they encroach upon them, and 
for the sake of room have to be mutilated by severe cut- 
ting, impairing their beauty forever. An illustration of 
this mistake is shown in figure 37, where the size of the 



198 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

trees, as they appeared at planting and their size fifteen 
years later is outlined. Such a condition of things is de- 
plorable, because wholly without adequate remedy, and 
of course owes its origin to the fact, that the planter 
only considered the beauty and the size of the tree at 
planting, and not its appearance in later years. 

The classification of trees accordiug to the size they 
reach at maturity, as explained in connection with figure 

I, and the letters throughout the description in Part 

II, will help one to a right idea of the size of trees and 
shrubs. As a rule, no tree properly belongs in grounds 
that are too small to admit of its full development or 
which will intrude too much upon space when full grown. 

In some places where planting is done for shade, an 
error is seen in the setting of not only larger growers 
than were needed for the place, but so many of them as 
to defeat the very idea of comfortable shade, by shutting 
out the access of cool breezes and retaining the heat of 
the sun's rays that may penetrate here and there. What 
is wanted in our hot climate, is not so much excessive 
shade, as open shade that allows the air to circulate 
freely through and under the trees. The character of 
trees has something to do with their forming a comforta- 
ble shade. For example, the shade of open-headed Silver 
Maples, Willows, Walnut, etc., is cooler than that of 
dense, close-headed kinds, for the simple reason that the 
heads of the former cause but a slight barrier to the 
entrance of cool breezes underneath. 

As distinct means for increasing variety, the formiug 
of Shrubbery- walks, Rosaries, Pinetums, etc., may be 
mentioned. These, as their names would imply, consist 
of a collection of members of the same family, or style 
of growth, so arranged as to facilitate the study of them 
and to develop the beauty that springs from bringing to- 
gether in numbers the different species of the same 
family. 



CLIMBEES AKD THEIK USES. 199 

In everything pertaining to the arrangment of trees, 
shrubs and plants, there is room for the exercise of a 
great deal of knowledge, taste and skill. As canvas, 
brushes and paints do not in themselves make the paint- 
er, so it cannot be expected that inexperience and lack of 
close acquaintance with kinds, will accomplish as good 
results in garden arrangment as arise from the labors of 
the trained arboriculturist and landscape gardener. Still, 
where the number to be planted is limited, and close 
attention is given to selections, being guided by descrip- 
tions, and then with proper forethought as to the arrange- 
ment, there need be little fear of really bad results. 



CHAPTEE XVIII. 
CLIMBERS AND THEIR USES. 

The value of the climbing and twining plants is en- 
titled to higher appreciation than it now receives from 
Americans. In Europe they are used more freely than 
with us. The adaptability of the hardy Ivy to the Eu- 
ropean climate, and its common use for ages, for mant- 
ling the walls of castles and kirks, may have had much 
to do with cultivating in Europeans a love for climbers. 
The Ivy, however, is by no means used exclusively 
abroad. As a climber of free habits, our own Virginia 
Creeper seems to find preference over it for most ordi- 
nary purposes, and in many respects it is greatly its 
superior. 

The adaptability of climbers is perhaps without equal 
among plants. Barely can a building be found, even in 
the heart of a city, and where there is no room for 
shrubs or grass, that may not be gracefully adorned with 



200 



ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 



the verdure and flowers of one or another of these. They 
are inexpensive as regards first cost, of easy and rapid, 
growth, adapted to a great variety of soils, and as appro- 




Fig. 38.— FENCE AND GATE POSTS COVERED BY CLIMBERS. 

priate for decorating a laborer's cottage as the mansion 
of the millionaire. 

Figure 38 represents a fence and gate posts covered 
with climbers. For such a purpose, the Virginian Creep- 




Fig. 39.— SMALL CITT COTTAGE FRONT COVERED WITH CREEPERS. 

er is as well adapted in America as any, and with atten- 
tion to pinching and training, may be made to serve most 
admirably. 



CLIMBERS A1STD THEIR USES. 



201 



Figure 39 shows a small cottage, one of a row with a 
free growing climber running over its front. The beau- 
tiful manner in which the Virginia Creeper, if thus used, 
may be made to partially curtain the windows is de- 
lightful; no better illustration of the value of plant life 
in making a town or any other home attractive can be 
found, than in such a use of climbers. By means of one 
or two plants, a blank house front is converted into a 
scene of interest and beauty that at once attracts the eye 
of every passer. How readily beauty of this kind is at- 




Fig. 40. — SETTING OF GREEN FOE Fig. 41. — BASE OF BAT WINDOW AND 
BAT WINDOW. PROJECTION COVERED WITH LONICERA. 

tamable, and what a wonderful influence for good would 
be exerted by its general prevalence throughout our 
cities, especially in portions where the poorer classes 
reside. 

Figures 40 and 4L show two bay windows decorated 
with climbers, each different as regards shape of windows, 
kind of plant and form of training. Figure 42 shows 
the end wall of a house with bay window, where climb- 



202 



ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 



ers, shrubs and flowers are used to make a pretty garden 
picture, whether as seen from without or within. For 
this purpose the climbers may be Wistaria, Celastrns, 
Virginia Creeper, or other free growers with AVeigela, 
Japan Quince, Keeves's Spiraea, or other shrubs of shapely 
growth and good foliage ; and Geraniums, Coleus, and 
similar bright plants between the shrubs. 

The climbers may be used to good advantage in con- 
nection with trees in several ways. Sometimes very 
picturesque combinations are met in nature, which are 
worthy of imitation in the garden. Trees fifteen to 




Fig. 42.— SHRUBS, FLOWERS, AND 
CLIMBERS ABOUT A BAY WINDOW 



VERANDA COVERED WITH 
CELASTRUS. 



twenty feet high may be so covered and weighed down 
with Virginia Creeper or the Wild Grape, as to form per- 
fect arbors of green, the branches falling in garlands to 
the ground. Nothing can be more delightful than such 
natural arbors. If a tree is of considerable size when 
such a climber is planted at the root, little harm to it 
can arise from the combination. 

A strong plant of the Dutchman's Pipe, or the Virginia 
Creeper running up one tree trunk about ten feet high, 
and then carried in a festoon across to another tree, 
veranda, or some other object near by, makes a novel and 



CLIMBEES AKD THEIR USES. 203 

pleasing object in a garden. A wire must be stretched 
across from tree to tree to support the Tine at first. 

The value of climbers for covering arbors, verandas, 
and the like is generally known. Figure 43 represents a 
veranda wreathed with Celastrus for which particular 
purpose there can be no better plant. The effect is best 
in such places if the branches are trained along in one 
line near the edge of the roof. For adorning all kinds 
of arbors and similar structures, the climbers are well 
fitted. If a simple, light, frame-work trellis of any de- 




Fig. 44. — PLAN FOR ARBOR OVER A GARDEN SEAT. 

sired form is made, somewhat after the plan shown in 
figure 44, and climbers be planted to run over it, the 
affair will be so completely covered in time, that nothing 
but the green will show, and an exceedingly pretty, 
cheap, and complete shelter from the sun will be the 
result. 

It is often desirable to have a screen of climbers over 
some portions of the side of a veranda for protection 
from the sun. A neat and cheap trellis to support the 
vine, may be made of ISTo. 12 or 14 wire, by putting a 
row of common screw eyes, such as can be bought at 
hardware stores, at six or eight inches apart along the 



204 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

upper and lower lines of the space to be covered, and 
then running wire between them, top and bottom ob- 
liquely to form diamond shaped interstices. Where they 
strike the posts, eyes must be put in to fasten the wires, 
they may then be bound together at points of crossing, 
strengthening the whole. A rather better contrivance 
with the wires crimped to prevent them slipping where 
crossed and the ends attached to. a frame work of iron 
rod, shaped to fit the space, may with some increased ex- 
pense be purchased of wire workers. 

Screens to serve as fences may be made in a similar 
way, by running the wires from top to bottom rails sup- 
ported by posts. These made to take the place of fences 
or hedges, around divisions of the garden, prove very at- 
tractive when covered with vines. 

Figure 45 shows a screen of this character with an 
archway carried over the walk, 
and all covered with one or 
two climbers. For such pur- 
poses nothing can be superior 
to that valuable and common 
climber, the Virginia Creeper. 

Fig. 45.-SCREEN OF VINES. Fo1 * the Sake ° f Variety, llOW- 

with archway. eveTj the Flowering Honey- 

suckles, Clematis, Wistaria, or others may also be used. 

A use to which climbers may be put in many gardens 
is represented by figure 46. Light posts of any hight, 
from eighteen inches upwards, may be set in line and 
connected by a wire running from one to another 
through the posts near the top. By keeping up a nar- 
row border on the line of the posts, and planting a climb- 
er at each, the whole structure will become beautifully 
covered in time. A line of this kind at the edge of a 
terrace in place of a balustrade, proves pleasing and in- 
expensive. 

A dead tree trunk, an oak post ten or twelve feet high, 




CLIMBERS AND THEIR USES. 205 

or a large boulder covered over with free growing climbers 
ai*e handsome objects in gardens. Honeysuckles or other 
climbers may be made to form handsome altars of green 
and flowers in the lawn, if five or six stakes are put about 
the plants, say four feet high, surrounding them with 
about three hoops at equal distances and allowing the 
vine to cover them. If the Gold-Netted Honeysuckle 
be used it will give a splendid golden effect. Other 
forms of trellis may also be used similarly for adorning 
lawns. 

Mantles and festoons of greenery over walls, railings, 
bridges, arbors, and the buildings generally, are so pleas- 




Fig. 46.— POSTS WITH GARLANDS BETWEEN. 

ing to the eye that the use of climbers should be very 
common. Plants of trailing habit, such as Periwinkle, 
Ivy and prostrate Junipers, are useful as edgings to plats 
of grass or shrubbery groups, or the former for covering 
terrace banks, shady places against buildings, or under 
trees where nothing else will grow. Single lines of 
Periwinkle or Ivy, a foot or more wide between walks 
and the lawn, are effective, as there is a pleasing contrast 
between the dark-greon foliage of the former, and the 
lighter green of the grass. With a little attention to 
trimming, either of these plants may be made to form a 
shapely rounded line. The Gold-netted Honeysuckle 
may also be thus used, and in that case the color is much 
lighter than that of the grass. 



200 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

CHAPTER XIX. 

FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL PLANTS. 

The effectiveness of hardy perennial or annual flower- 
ing plants in the garden depends, as with woody plants, 
much upon their position and arrangement. In the nat- 
ural style of garden making, the front j3arts of tree and 
shrubbery borders, as well as in the midst of these, in the 
bare spaces, are suitable places for these or flowers of 
every kind. Some lines of bright annuals, or low, hardy, 
variegated grass, or any other low growing plants that 
are suitable for edging, may be placed next to the grass, 
while in the bays of the shrubbery line, and also further 
back, showy, hardy plants, bulbs, bright, seed-grown 
things, as well as tender, perpetual blooming flowers may 
be set. There are many little hardy flowers that thrive 
directly under the shade of shrubs, and some of these 
may be introduced to become naturalized in such places. 
All kinds may be grouped promiscuously, or for the sake 
of variety in some places, be arranged in lines lengthwise 
or in any other direction. Combinations of different 
classes of ornamental plants may easily be so managed in 
borders, as to render them very attractive in flowers and 
foliage from early spring until freezing weather in the 
fall. Different borders and beds on the same ground 
may be planned to differ in arrangement and style of 
expression. Even if the free-flowering, tender plants 
that must be newly bedded each year, were omitted from 
these collections, a selection of hardy plants alone could 
be employed, that would, together with flowering shrubs, 
never allow the beds to be without flowers or attractive- 
ness during the growing season. 

In the use of seed-grown plants in such places, or in 
any place,- if the massing plan were more generally ob- 



FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL PLANTS. 207 

served in setting them, these flowers would have a better 
reputation in fine gardens. Candytuft, Clarkia, Erysi- 
mum, and all kinds, in fact, if sown in round, triangu- 
lar, or other shaped drills, the ends of which meet, and 
about eighteen inches or upwards across, so as to form a 
clump of foliage and flowers when grown, prove, as a 
rule, much finer than the. same plants scattered in drib- 
lets too small to make an impression. 

The more common use of the many attractive hardy 
flowers, is recommended in every kind of ornamental 
gardening. Admitting that there is something of a lack 
in the constancy of bloom afforded, as compared with the 
tender bedders, it should be remembered that they are 
inexpensive to get at the start, and once planted are al- 
most as permanent as Oak trees, growing and increasing 
indefinitely. They come up each spring with little care, 
many of them are unequalled for beauty, and selections 
can be made that will, by succession, afford in different 
kinds a constant show of flowers during the summer 
season. Some of this class are very fine if arranged in 
clumps, either alone, or several kinds together on the 
lawn. Lily of the Valley, Plantain Lilies, Crocus, Col- 
chicums, Yuccas, Pampas, and other grasses, Pasonies 
and some others possessing attractive flowers and foliage 
are effective when so planted. 

The more formal style of arranging flowers and plants 
-sometimes called carpet bedding — in which mostly 
tender kinds, such as are planted anew every spring, 
and produce richly colored flowers or foliage, are used, 
is a very effective as well as popular means of embellish- 
ing pleasure grounds. Bright flowers and showy foliage, 
if brought together in tasteful designs, with regard for 
harmony and contrasts, are susceptible of producing 
most attractive results. 

Some excellent and elaborate work in this line is now 
to be seen everywhere in gardens both private and public, 



208 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

as well as in cemeteries. The managers of Lincoln Park, 
Chicago, and in Battersea Park, London, England, easily 
take the lead in this style of adornment, and the display 
now annually made in each of these, as well as in some 
other parks that could be named, would be difficult to 
excel. That these embellishments are in the main well 
conceived and find appreciation from the public is easily 
seen in the fact, that in these parks, which abound in a 
variety of interesting garden and other features — the 
former both in the natural and other styles — the parts 
devoted to these showy arrangements of flowers are those 
among all competing ones in interest, that are the most 
constantly thronged by admirers. 

I am well aware that some advocates of a strictly nat- 
ural style of garden making, pronounce against the 
bedding or massing system as being wrong both in prin- 
ciple and taste. But it will be difficult to ever educate 
the people to have none of it, for that it has a legitimate 
place in the ornamentation of grounds is obvious to most 
gardeners and other persons. When the mass of the 
people may be brought to see that there is more real 
beauty in the coarse primitive Zinnia, Balsam, or Iris, 
than in the splendid improvements on these that have 
been accomplished by art, then they may also learn to 
despise art in the arrangement of flowers. And as to the 
use of geometrical lines and outlines, delicate tints and 
rich colors combined in contrasts, where can be found 
more suggestive examples, in such arrangements, than 
in nature's own work-shop, in the mutiplicity of such 
forms and combinations as are everywhere in the flowers, 
fruits and foliage of the vegetable kingdom. 

That disagreeable effects often do arise in this, as in 
other uses of flowers, is very true, but a chief cause 
for this, it should be understood, comes from disregard- 
ing the true relation of flowers and plants in such ar- 
rangments to garden scenery generally. It should be re- 



FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL PLANTS. 209 

membered that the sphere of such a style of ornamenta- 
tion is in the line of what has elsewhere been termed 
minor embellishments, hence it follows, tbat the use of 
striking and fanciful compositions like these must be 
limited accordingly. If nature shows many fanciful 
forms, and varied colors in her attractive flowers, she 
also teaches by example, that these in order to be most 
beautiful need an appropriate setting, hence we find 
every flower usually borne above or brought in close 
conjunction with masses of foliage, which give it needed 
relief. So too, diamonds and rich ribbons in dress, are 
only used with their full power for conveying pleasure 
to the eye, when they find an appropriate setting in con- 
nection with something that possesses less capacity for • 
ornamentation. 

Mr. DeVry's great success in using flowers and plants 
in the Chicago Park, lies largely in the fact, that al- 
though a multitude of beds are filled, they are so seated 
on ample areas of lawn, and these skirted by trees, that 
notwithstanding their abundance, they seem only to 
richly embellish the parts where they are introduced. In 
marked contrast with his success, is a conspicuous flower 
garden annually made in the West End Park of Glasgow, 
Scotland. Here is a garden of flowers instead of a gar- 
den (or a part of it) embellished with flowers. The ar- 
rangement consists of a circular plat, one hundred and 
thirty feet across, bounded by a gravel walk, and divided 
by others into about fifty different sized flower beds, 
which are closely planted, and there is little or noth- 
ing else besides. The entire absence of grass and other 
features that deserve to be termed major features of 
adornment, the numerous walks and the sameness that 
exists in the form of the beds, all serve to produce a very 
weak effect, with a great abundance of very excellent 
plant material. 

In a public garden near New York, I met recently a 



210 



ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 



marked example of the misuse of flowers in embellishing 
grounds as shown in figure 47. The beauty of a conspic- 
uous but not large plat was almost destroyed, and at large 
cost, by immense, long, glaring masses of a single color 




Fig. 47. — TOO MANY FLOWERS FOR GOOD EFFECT. 

of geranium, with only the relief of a few lines of other 
plants at the edge. 

Figure 48 shows the improvement of which the same 
spot was susceptible, if less than one-fourth as many 
plants had been used, but on the principle of employing 
them as minor features in the adornment, with a corres- 




Fig. 48. — THE SAME PLAT WITH FEWER FLOWERS. 

ponding increase of grass, and the former arranged by 
introducing a little pleasing variety into the designs. 

Let bright flowers and plants be used in planting the 
garden, being guided by the same principle upon which 
growing flowers or plants are set to be surrounded and 
supported by a profusion of foliage, or that which gov- 



FLOWERING AND OKXAMENTAL PLANTS. 



211 



ems the tasteful use of ornaments in dress, never using 
them in excess. Thus employed, whether the ground 
to be embellished is a square rod or many acres, there 
will be little room for complaint of the formal style of 




Fig. 49. 



Fig. 50. Fig. 51. 

SMALL BEDS CUT IN A LAWN. 



Fig. 53. 



arrangement, provided the designs after which the flow- 
ers are planted be in themselves good and tasteful. 

The character of the designs which are followed in 
setting out plants in formal or geometric bedding has 
Fig. 53. Fig. 54. Fig. 55. 




Fig. 56. 



Fi£. 57. 

LARGE CIRCULAR BEDS IN A LAWN. 



Fig. 58. 



much to do with their beauty. In the accompanying 
engraving are shown numerous tasteful plans, which 
may serve as a guide in this kind of work. Figures 49 



212 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

to 52 show four beds of irregular outline, suitable for 
planting with different kinds or colors as indicated by 
dotted lines, or the same shaped beds may be planted 
with a single kiud. If such beds of any desired size, 
say from four to eight feet across, are cut into the lawn, 
and planted with Coleus, Geraniums, Cannas, Alternan- 
theras, or other showy plants, they will be very pleasing. 

For larger beds of circular outline, from ten to twenty 
feet across, the designs from figures 53 to 58 are any of 
them handsome for garden lawns, if well planted with a 
good selection of kinds. The central figures alone of 
several of these might be laid out in the lawn, depending 
on the grass for ground work with capital effect. 

Two beds of oval shape are shown in figures 59 and GO. 
In some places such a form is required in preference to 




Fig. 59. Fig. 60. 

ELABORATE BEDS OF OVAL FORM. 

the round. The various designs here given may be the 
means of suggesting others to the inventive mind. I 
have not taken space to illustrate plain circles, stars, 
crescents, squares, triangles, and other simple designs, all 
of which look attractive in the lawn, and are easily made 
by any one. In all cases, whatever designs are used, let 
them be quite simple. While it is easy to draught an 
elaborate plan that will be satisfactory in pen or pencil 
marks upon paper, the same might be very difficult to 
work out in plants. 



FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL PLANTS. 213 

PLANTS FOR CARPET BEDS. 

In choosing these, those of contrasting colors should 
be brought together. The parts appearing dark and 
lighter in the engravings, just given, will readily suggest 
how colors may be used in different parts. No precise 
rule, however, can be laid down for this, and variations 
without end are allowable if made with good taste. 

Where a hight of nine inches and upwards of a solid 
mass of color is desired, the Coleus, Achyranthes, Ge- 
ranium, Centaurea, Variegated Stevia, Gnaphalium, 
Abutilon Thompsoni, and so forth, are among the best 
that can be used. When plants of a lower growth are 
desired, say from four to eight inches, the following are 
suitable : Alternantheras, Golden-Feather Pyrethrums, 
Variegated Thyme of several kinds, Alyssum in several 
varieties, Lobelia, Dwarf Ageratum, Cigar plant ( Cuphea) 
and Golden and Silver-edged Geraniums. 

For forming a low carpet, Othonna sedifolia (crassi- 
folia of some), Dew Plant {Mesembryanthemum) in two 
varieties, Echeveria {Cotyledon) secunda glauca, Pilea 
serpyllifolia, Moneywort, Leucophyton, the prostrate 
Sedums, all of low-trailing habit, rarely growing more 
than two inches high, are the most valuable. 

For low edgings the Alternantheras, Thymes, Alys- 
sums, Golden Feather, Leucophyton, Echeverias and 
others are suitable. Sometimes these kinds are used in 
beds like those of figures 58 and 59, and also others for 
making single lines or to mark divisions through plants 
of low growth. 

For the center of beds, or to place at points in the de- 
sign, the Agaves, Echeverias, Yuccas, Dracenas, Palms, 
etc., may be used, while something taller yet to occupy 
a space in the middle of beds is found in Oaladiums, 
Cannas, Ricinus, Striped Maize, and others. 



214 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

RAISED GEOMETRIC BEDS. 

The modern style of raised geometric beds, one of 
which is represented by figure 61, are ornamental in the 
highest degree when well designed and planted and prop- 
erly cared for. The one shown in the engraving, 
sketched in Mt. Auburn Cemetery, near Boston, was 
about two and a half feet high at the foot of the plant 
vase, and all parts of it thickly planted with Echeverias, 
Othonna, Draceuas, Sedums and a few other low plants. 




Fig. Gl. — AN ELABORATE, ELEVATED BED. 

The graceful outlines and excellent proportions, the 
slopes and surfaces of various forms and angles, and the 
contrast between delicate colors, shown in the com- 
positions, together contributed to an effect at once cpiietly 
pleasing, rich and beautiful. 

There is no limit to the variety and pleasing effects 
that may be secured in this style, in designs marked 
either by simplicity or by elaboration. A very simple, 
yet effective form, consists of a series of circular terraces 
placed stair-like, one above another, each a foot high 
with the bottom one eight, the next six and a half, 
then five feet, three and a half and two feet across re- 
spectively, with a large Dracena or Agave at the top, 
crowning all. The level parts planted with Alternan- 
theras, and the almost perpendicular slopes with Eche- 
verias, produce a very fine result. 



FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL PLANTS. 



215 



In a still more simple style, the bed is raised six inches 
or more above the common surface, with an abruptly 
sloping edge. The surface of the bed is occupied as any 
ordinary bed, while the slope may be planted with Eche- 
verias or other plants that lie close to the ground. If the 



W\ 



Q^ 




Fig. 62. — DESIGNS FOB CORNERS. Fig. 63.— SECTION OF RIBBON BORDER. 

slope is covered with grass kept nicely clipped, instead 
of Echeverias, etc., the effect is also good. The outline 
of such beds may be of any other form than circular, 
such as a star, crescent, oval, etc. 

DESIGNS FOR CORNERS AND BORDERS. 



Figure 62 represents two designs of flower beds for the 
corners formed by the intersections of walks or drives at 
right angles; where two corners directly opposite are to be 
thus occupied, the same design ought to be used in both. 

Figure 63 shows a section of border in the ribbon 
style. Commencing with line a, low plants are used, 
and with this the hight is 
increased with each letter, 
and the d may contain the 
highest plants, from this 
they decrease in size, and 
those in g and a being alike 
in hight. The effect of a 
long border of this kind is 




Fig.64. — PORTION OF SCROLL BORDER. 



very striking, 
figure 64. 



.A. scroll pattern for a border is shown in 



216 



ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 



A beautiful narrow border in an arabesque arrangement, 
all the plants of which should be fine, low-growing kinds, 
is shown in figure 65. In carrying out any of the de- 
signs given, it is hardly possible in transferring the pat- 
tern to the ground to take too great pains with all lines, 
to have them of proper shape and in graceful curves. 
Beds are often seen which were intended to be copies of 




Fig. 65.— ARABESQUE PATTERN IN PART FOR BORDER. 

excellent patterns, but the work of laying out and plant- 
ing was done in such an inferior manner as to deprive it 
wholly of its due effect. 

LOCATION OF FLOWER BEDS. 

The placing of flower beds should al- 
ways be decided upon with care. It is as 
necessary to have regard to the general 
effect of a bed on the garden as to having 
it show well on its own account. The 
centre of a principal grass plat to many 
first suggests itself as being the most 
suitable place of all for beds, when in 
fact it is the very place not to be cut 
into, if we would preserve that most 
essential of all features in a garden, un- 
impaired breadth and openness of lawn. 
Place them rather towards the end or 
sides. Indentures in shrubbery borders 
as shown in figure 66, afford good posi- 
tions for them. 




Fig. 66. 



It is well, when grading the grounds, to have some 



FLOWERING AND ORXAMENTAL PLANTS. 



217 



such points as these made slightly elevated, or mound- 
like, expressly for accommodating showy flower-beds. In 
this way a desirable degree of boldness may be secured, 
while the means by which it was acquired would ordinarily 
escape detection. But be careful not to make such ele- 
vations too high, else they may appear unnatural. 

The Parisians have a pleasing mode of using flowers in 
decorating their lawns worth noticing. It consists of 
running a narrow border several feet in from the edge of 
grass plats, on four sides, with some openings to the 
centre, as shown in figure 67. These borders are usually 
from three to six feet wide, with the plants arranged 




Fig. 67.— FRENCH METHOD OF ADORNING LAWNS. 

in the mixed irregular style and quite uncrowded, with 
usually an edging of some bright low plants. It is a 
charming style, and the effect is largely due to preserving 
an ample central plat of grass. A pleasing feature is 
the introduction of some handsome shrubs, along the 
centre of the borders at equal distances apart. Altogether 
the arrangement is satisfactory to the eye, and worthy 
of adoption in our gardens when of sufficient area. 
10 



218 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 



SUB-TROPICAL GARDENS. 



Sub-tropical gardens are those in which tropical and 
sub-tropical plants of showy foliage, like the Palms, 
Cycas, Dracenas, Agaves, and many others, or else kinds 
of a different nature that bear some resemblance to these, 
or both, are used with a view to introducing some of the 
picturesqueness of tropical vegetation into the gardens 
of the North. Under the head of Hardy Plants in Part 
II are named some of that class, which possess qualities 
that suit them to this style of gardening. These pos- 
sess a special value for the purpose, because while very 
effective along with others, unlike the Palms and other ten- 
der tropicals, they can be had in any garden, without re- 
quiring a conservatory in which to winter them. To such 
also may be added some hardy trees and shrubs that have 
a picturesque appearance, like the Ailanthus, Cut-leaved 
Sumach, Aralias, Magnolias, Honey Locusts, and others. 
The first two named, when used for this purpose, should 
be subjected to the peculiar treatment of cutting them 
down to near.the ground every year, and then depending 
upon the new growth for effect. Some plants grown from 
seed and tubers, such as Eicinus, Japanese Maize, Sun- 
flower, Caladiums, Cannas, etc., are also very suitable 
here. If with a good collection of such kinds, only a few 
real tropicals can be used, a decidedly good effect may be 
created. These latter kinds will be growing in pots, which 
should be sunk in the soil of the bed. Even if the 
true tropicals are entirely lacking, the effect may still 
be very satisfactory. The sub-tropical garden should be 
in a place somewhat protected from sweeping winds, for 
these play havoc with the foliage of some kinds. 

HARDY FERNS AND THE WILD GARDEN. 

The hardy Ferns are a class of plants of peculiar beau- 
ty, and an out-door fernery is very desirable. Delight- 



FLOWERING AND ORNAMENTAL PLANTS. 219 

ing in shade, as most of them do, there are many town 
lots so hedged in by high buildings as to forbid the 
growth of other plants, but which are well adapted to 
growing ferns. Beds for these may be treated as low 
rockeries. In Part IV directions are given for preparing 
soil for them. 

The Wild Garden is a place where interesting wild and 
cultivated plants are brought together in the most nat- 
ural manner, and allowed to live and struggle, much 
as they do when wild. In small grounds a place in the 
midst of groups of trees and shrubs, or in large grounds 
a number of acres partly wood and partly open, treated 
thus for revealing the wildness peculiar to woods and 
clearings, may be rendered a most enjoyable place. Where 
space will admit, hardy flowers, grasses, ferns, and creep- 
ers should be scattered about, and thickets be formed of 
shrubs, including brambles. Some clumps of the more 
graceful wild-looking plants of the garden should be 
placed here, together with those gathered from woods 
and clearings. Here is a place where the Fennel-leaved 
Pseony will be enjoyed more than would an improved 
variety with large gobular flowers ; the single Briar Rose 
more than the best improved Hybrid Perpetual. Some 
annuals may be scattered over the soil in spots, to come 
along as they can, and some of these will live for years 
by self-seeding. 

Rocks, stumps, and mounds, clothed with Mosses, 
Lichens, Winter-green, Partridge-berry, and many other 
little wild things are well in sucli a place, and could 
there be a small brook with aquatic plants, trees, and 
rocky cliffs festooned with climbers, little would be lack- 
ing to render the spot constantly attractive. The loveli- 
ness and ceaselessly varying charms of such scenes are 
indeed difficult to describe, and something of the kind 
would prove to be one of the most gratifying spots in 
any place, no matter what other features of adornment 



220 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

might be introduced. Then such a wild garden has the 
great merit of permanence and inexpensiveness, for if 
arranged with some judgment at first, the colony may 
almost be left to take care of itself. If the owner were to 
go away for ten years, time would so add to its attrac- 
tions, that he might on his return find it more beautiful 
than ever. 



CHAPTER XX. 
ROCKWORK. 



That there is a general love for the rough picturesque- 
ness of rocks and crags, is shown by the frequency with 
which the former, in either good taste or bad, are used 




Fig. 68.— SIMPLE FORM OF ROCKWORK. 

for adorning home grounds. With rocks we may trans- 
fer material for garden embellishment from nature, that 
remains wholly unchanged with the removal. 

The effectiveness of rockwork depends largely upon 
the manner in which it is formed. Figure 68 represents 
one of the simplest ways of using rocks and stones for 
garden adornment. Stones of most any size that can be 
handled are set a part of their length in the soil of a bed, 
somewhat mound-like in shape, and at such distances 
apart as to allow some plants to grow between them. 
They are better for being elongated, mostly setting them 
then with their longest way at right angles with the sur- 
face of the soil. 



ROCKWORK. 



221 



Chips of building stone from the cutter's yard are excel- 
lent. If their diameters are nearly alike, they may vary 
considerably in length without deteriment. If kinds of 
two or more different colors and shades can be selected for 
the same, or different beds, a pleasing kind of variety is 
thus secured. 

Such a rockery is well suited to ferns or any plants 
that in order to flourish need moisture at the roots. The 
stones aid the retention of moisture in the soil, and it 
may be remarked that the nearer flat the bed is kept the 




J?ig. 69. — A ROCK-BORDER WITH ROCK-PLANTS, CLIMBERS, EVER- 
GREENS, ETC. 

less trouble there will be from drying out. A rockery is 
well adapted to situations which are difficult to embellish 
otherwise, such as narrow spaces between the walks and 
fence or house, or in angles formed by buildings and 
walls, or at junctions of walks, and sometimes they may 
be even used effectually in simple circular mounds. 

Figure 69 shows a rock-border suitable to be placed 
next to the boundary of lots, against buildings, or to be 
used as a low screen. The engraving will give sugges- 
tions for arranging such mound rockeries. It is seen 
that there is first an edging of stones mostly set on their 



222 



ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 



ends, retaining the soil of the mounds. Then there are 
more or less stones, large and small, partly imbedded in 
the soil all over the surface. The mound should, for the 
sake of variety, vary somewhat in its hight in different 
parts. As shown here, the front line is supposed to vary 
from one to three feet in hight. The ground outline 
may be waved or straight, as may be preferred, or space 
will allow. In some places pockets are arranged among 
the stones in laying them up, for holding soil and plants, 




/Q) 9 




Fig. 70.— IDEA FOR WALKS IN A ROCK-GARDEN. 

and in these trailers, like Moneywort, Vinca or Peri- 
winkle, etc. , may be set. 

This engraving represents a rockery which is fully ex- 
posed to the sun. Such, if made fifteen to twenty feet 
wide, will accommodate a large variety of hardy and tender 
plants, dwarf, deciduous, and evergreen shrubs, etc. It 
is an excellent place for some of the slightly tender ever- 
greens, for the soil being elevated, is never wet, and al- 
lows the annual growth to ripen so thoroughly that they 
can endure severe cold with impunity. 

In grounds of large extent, and especially on places 



ROCKWORK. 223 

where large stones abound, rock-gardens can be formed 
with many variations. An idea for walks in such a gar- 
den is given in figure 70, the rock-faced line of the 
mound as shown in figure 69, forming the edge of the 
walk all around. The outer edge of the outside mounds, 
and also beyond, may be planted with shrubs and trees, 
but these, especially the trees, should not be so dense all 
around as to shut out the cool breezes in summer. If 
such a rock-garden is formed where one or several 
large shade trees stand, and the walks are carried near 
or under these, and seats provided in the shade, and then 
if a small stream of water can be had to pass through it, 
about every requirement for a very complete rock-garden 
would be met, and one suited to plants that like shade, 
moisture, and dry places. 

Sometimes instead of sowing a slope in the pleasure 
garden with grass, its surface may be converted into a 
rockery. There is a chance in large rock-gardens for in- 
troducing an almost endless variety in the shape of 
grottos, steps, archways, springs, pools, cascades, 
bridges, ledges, shelves, etc. , and it is not a difficult mat- 
ter to render these remarkably interesting and attractive. 

In planting, the principles governing the arrangement 
of groups of trees and shrubs, touched upon in previous 
chapters, may be observed here. One part of the con- 
struction may have trailers predominating, another ever- 
greens, from the spiry dwarf Spruces and Junipers to 
the Creeping Junipers and Ivies, still others may be de- 
voted to alpine plants, upland and shade-loving ferns, 
wild flowers, and even showy tender tropicals and green- 
house plants may be introduced. In moist, shady places, 
the grotesque Eex Begonias, Marantas, Dracenas, 
Tradescantias, etc., would be effective. Cobaea scan dens 
is a climber of special value for such places. By using 
good taste in the arrangement of the surface, rocks, 
plants, and trees, and avoiding every thing like stiffness 



224 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

and formality in the work, there is no reason why such 
rockeries should not prove very pleasing in any garden 
that can accommodate them. 

An arch constructed of rough stones, and covered with 
climbers, is represented by figure 71. This makes an ap- 
propriate entrance to a rock-garden, or it may be intro- 
duced independently as an entrance to other divisions of 
the grounds. Even small lots Avill allow such an object to 
be brought in very fitly. This may be, because there are 
but few steps of transition between rocks, as they come 



Fig. 71. — AN ARCHWAY OF ROCKWORK. 

from nature, and as they are used in buildings. At any 
rate, I have observed that we may have, even in a small 
and highly finished garden, a bit of some such pictur- 
esque roughness, where other kinds of natural material 
used to a marked extent would seem out of place. 

Eock Grottos often prove interesting features in gar- 
dens. They need not necessarily be dark, damp, or un- 
healthy, and may, from the very nature of the material, 
and the manner of their construction, be made comforta- 
ble places in the heat of summer. Figures 72 to 74 give 
a ground outline, a cross section and a stairway of a sim- 
ple form of Grotto. There are in this two places of en- 
trance and exit on the level of the floor, and stairs leading 
from the interior to the summit, thus providing for free 



HOCKWOKK. 



225 



circulation of air. In the one figured there is a bubbling 
spring of water, giving rise to a lively rill which crosses 




Fig. 72.— GROUND OUTLINE OF ARTIFICIAL, GROTTO — P, P, REPRESENT 
ROCK PILLARS. 

the floor, and an ample stone seat. There is a large field 
for variety and for displaying taste and knowledge of 
building in the construction of rockwork of this kind. 




Fig. 73.— CROSS-SECTION OF ARTIFICIAL Fig. 74. — STAIRWAY TN ARTI- 
GROTTO. FICIAL GROTTO. 

In the Paris public gardens one may see that the con- 
struction of Grottos may amount to quite an art. Great 



226 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

skill is brought to bear in imitating natural grottos, 
even to the introduction of imposing artificial stalactites 
and stalagmites, also in introducing cascades and other 
forms of water in connection with them. 

The imitation of castles or their ruins, and draping 
them with climbers, is sometimes engaged in with favor- 
able results. But caution should be observed as regards 
the materials, designs, and location of such work, else it 
may prove a blemish rather than an ornament in the 
grounds. 

It is elsewhere suggested that a large boulder may be 
converted into an ornamental feature by draping it with 




BRIDGE OF ROCKS. 



the Virginia Creeper or other climber. There is propriety 
in introducing some of these sparingly, with or without 
the drapery of foliage, into gardens, especially such as 
are laid out in the natural style. Placed in groups in 
a corner of a plat, or at the side of knolls, or singly at 
junctions, or along the sides of walks and drives, the 
effect of these is generally good. 

Sometimes shapely stones, uniform in size, may be 
used as edgings to walks or flower beds throughout a 
place. Such should be large enough to admit of sinking 
them part way into the ground, so that they will not 
easily become displaced, yet they should not be so large 
as to be very conspicuous. 

Figure 75 represents a bridge of rocks for private or 



WATER IN ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 227 

public grounds, either crossing over water, or another 
walk on a lower level as through a gully. With the right 
materials at hand, such a bridge is easily laid up and 
quite sure to look well. 

Very fair substitutes for natural rocks in rockwork 
are the odd shaped clinkers that come from furnaces, 
and the distorted burned bricks from kilns, which are 
often cemented together in masses. Some of these can 
be selected which, at a little distance, can not be distin- 
guished from rocks. 

In introducing rockwork into the garden, let every- 
thing like overdoing be guarded against. Where one 
meets with success beyond expectations in work of 
this kind, enthusiasm is usually aroused, and enthusiasm 
here, if it should blind the eye of correct taste and dis- 
cretion is liable to lead to very objectionable excesses. 



CHAPTEE XXI. 
WATER IN ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

In many of the most attractive natural landscapes 
water holds a place of high importance, and this suggests 
its value in ornamental gardening. As a rule, unless it 
is supplied naturally, water effects produced in gardens 
prove somewhat costly, hence it will be only now and 
then employed, except perhaps in the shape of a foun- 
tain, tiny rill or lakelet. But where a natural rill, creek, 
or lake exists, it should be prized and so treated as to 
make the most of it. 

A large stream or body of water may not be manage- 
able in itself as a garden feature, but trees and shrubs 
can usually be introduced between the frequented parts 
of a garden bordering on the stream, in such a manner as 




228 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

to afford most delightful glimpes of it. No large expanse 
of water is as pleasing if viewed all at once, as when seen by 
parts through openings between woody clumps. Where 
they can be used, tastefully built boat houses, landings, 
and bridges are pleasing features. 

Small, natural lakes may sometimes be varied in out- 
line to advantage. Figure 76 shows how a lakelet, rep- 
resented by the dotted lines, which could be viewed 
at a glance in every part, was so varied by grading and 
planting as to be more ornamental, and to appear larger, 
because so arranged that all parts 
are never seen from any one 
point, thus conveying the idea 
of indefinite extent. In such 
work, regard should be paid to 
having the general outline simple 
*^£P f^ rather than otherwise. The prin- 

Fig. 76,-lakelet improved. ciple of partia i concealment is 

an important one in managing all small bodies of water 
if we would make the most of them. 

Islands add a pleasing variety to water scenery if 
happily placed. Usually they are better for being not 
far from the shore, to maintain an appearance of some 
connection with the main-land. They should be abun- 
dantly clothed with trees and shrubs. For every pur- 
pose of this kind, the Laurel-leaved and other free-grow- 
ing "Willows possess great value. Planted at the water's 
edge, their shrubby forms soon enlarge, and hanging in 
the water on one side, resting on the land on the other, 
they break the regular outline of the water delightfully. 

Where a good living rill is found in gardens, or can be 
introduced, there need be little lack of the attractiveness 
water is susceptible of imparting. A lake may be formed 
by excavation or by damming, or a series of these may be 
made, or the course of the stream maybe intercepted with 
rocks and earth, to produce small musical cascades or 



WATER IX ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 



229 



rapids, as shown in figure 77, provided there is a very 
slight fall in the land; or the water may be divided 
to meet again further on to form islets. Usually with 
a certain quantity of water at command, there is no 
more advantageous use to which it can be put for or- 
nament than this of rills. Those European gardens, in 
which vast sums of money have been expended in con- 
structing complicated fountains and water works, are 
poor examples to be followed in the use of water in gar- 




A NATURAL BILL IMPROVED. 



dens; for usually, if, instead, one-fourth of the water and 
one-tenth of the money had been employed in these in 
making rills, lakelets, waterfalls, etc., of natural appear- 
ance, the effects would have been far better. 

One thing to be guarded against in the production of 
effects with artificial water, or, indeed, in artificial ar- 
rangements of rocks, trees, etc., is the investing of the 
work with an air of stiffness and a studied appearance so 
opposite to nature in her most pleasing moods. This 
defect is not unfrequently apparent in such compositions, 
and sometimes so bad that the general appearance of the 
grounds would have been better with no attempt what- 
ever at ornamentation of the kind. A safe guide in this 



230 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

kind of work is to be found in fine natural scenes, 
and then, of course, experience, coupled with good taste 
on the part of the designer. 

Unless adjacent grounds are elevated and hilly, the 
banks of lakes and streams should not generally be 
steep and regular. Usually in nature, the land meets the 
water gradually, unless in the case of streams, the sides 
of which are cut down by the wearing of the water, or 
where they run through gulleys or along hill sides. If 
walks are to be carried along the banks, they should not, 
as a rule, run close to the edge for long distances, but a 
strip of grass, however narrow in places, and then at 
some points clumps of trees and plants should be between 
them. Occasionally the walks may run down to the 
water and be widened into a beach for some distance and 
return again. Along winding rills, through gulleys, 
where the walks are carried along steep slopes, railings 
are sometimes needed and perhaps bridges now and then 
for crossing the stream. Large rocks set in the water to 
project boldly above' the surface are appropriate in water 
scenery. Trees and shrubs in clumps, extending quite 
down to the water's edge in places, help greatly to pro- 
duce an appearance of natural grace and freedom. 

While no class of trees are more appropriate for en- 
hancing water effects than Weeping and other Willows, 
still it is frequently demonstrated in the best landscape 
gardening, that no trees are more useful for planting with 
the Willows than the Poplars and other tapering kinds — 
trees the least likely to be thought of by many planters 
for such situations. In marked contrast, as such erect 
trees are with the weepers, they give strength to them, 
and create an improved effect throughout. 

Water is often used in ornamental gardens in fountains 
and basins. By means of these, the refreshing beauty 
and music of moving water may be secured with quanti- 
ties so limited, that the use of the element in any other 



HEDGES AND CLIPPED TKEES. 231 

manner would be impracticable. The beauty of a foun- 
tain depends largely upon having a sufficient water sup- 
ply to make the streams strong and animated, and also 
upon its style and setting. The best fountain designs 
and figures can never make up for inadequate water sup- 
ply. On the other hand, a fouutain with no figure, and 
consisting only of one or more strong streams from noz- 
zles placed at the surface of the water is usually very 
satisfactory. 

Both stone and iron basins are used for fountains, but 
so far as appearances go, the former consisting of a cut 
stone coping, with a well constructed cement bottom, is 
to be perferred. 

Where the water of a garden is suitable for fish and 
water fowl, it is desirable to introduce some of these for 
ornament. Water fowls soil a garden to some extent, 
on which account, if for no other, they must not be in- 
troduced too freely. Small garden ponds converted into 
washing pools for poultry are an abomination, and yet 
they may sometimes be met with looking quite as bad as 
this. The subject of Aquatic and Bog Plants is somewhat 
discussed in Parts II and IV. 



CHAPTER XXII. 
HEDGES AND CLIPPED TREES. 

That peculiarity of some trees which allows of their 
being closely clipped with shears, and by this means kept 
compact and dense, when they would naturally reach a 
large size, is turned to account in the garden, particularly 
in making hedges. About all those known as hedge 
plants are of this nature. 

Hedges, whether introduced for marking di visions, or 



232 



ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 



merely for ornament, are, when in good condition, and 
it is easy to have them so, very useful for increasing 
garden variety and effectiveness. Their forms may be 
varied considerably, and in this way alone there is a 
chance for a good deal of pleasing variety. 

Figure 78 shows a number of forms of both plain and 
ornamental hedges, including two passage ways through 
them. The Norway Spruce and Hemlock, two of our 




Fig. 78.— VARIOUS FORMS OF HEDGES. 

most reliable and tractable hedge plants, and the Beech, 
Hornbeam, and Holly, are suitable for the forms A, D, H, 
I. Arbor Vita?, Tree Box, Privets, Osage Orange, Honey 
Locust, Japan Quince, and other shrubs may be trimmed 
into forms B, C, and E. Entrances like F and G can be 
worked out of any of the taller growing hedge plants. 
Edgings to walks, borders, and clumps of plants and 
shrubs may be made of the Dwarf Box, Tom Thumb 
Arbor Vitae, and Dwarf Spruce with good effect. 

The distance apart for setting hedge plants, varies ac- 
cording to the size intended to be reached. For exam- 



HEDGES AND CLIPPED TEEES. 233 

pie, if a fine, low Norway Spruce hedge is designed to 
be kept at three or four feet in hight, with perhaps five 
feet in view ultimately, the plants may be put eighteen 
or twenty inches apart, but if a screen, twelve or fifteen 
feet high is desired, they should not be closer than four 
feet, and six feet would be better. In cases like this they 
may be planted twice or three times as close at the start, 
to make a full row, and then remove those between as the 
others require the space. It is safe to say that from 
twelve to fourteen incbes apart is a suitable distance for 
the majority of kinds where the hedge is to be low, 
with an increase to twice this distance for high hedges 
or screens. 

The objection to hedges, that they cannot be crossed 
even when it is desirable to do so, at other places than 




Fig. 79. — STILE FOR HEDGES. 

gates, may be overcome by the use of a stile, as shown 
in figure 79. 

Eegarding clipped forms of trees, we hold in as great 
abhorrence as any one, the ludicrous extent to which 
these have been used in old-time gardening, espec- 
ially in Europe, and which even to-day prevails in some 
places abroad. Still, in the same way as the formal ter- 
race and slope, geometrical flower-beds, etc., may some- 
times fit in the garden, as minor features of embellish- 
ment, so some clipped trees may properly be admitted. 
A number of acres closely covered with every conceiva- 



234 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

ble pattern of these, such as can be seen in some old 
European places, may well fill us with disgust, but it does 
not follow that a few perfect globes, pyramids, urns, or 
trees in other shapes, well relieved by grass, in some parts 
of our gardens, would not afford genuine pleasure, or 
even that a larger number may not sometimes be em- 
ployed with tasteful effect. 

The charming garden of Mr. Hunnewell, Wellesley, 
Mass., owes its fame to no one thing, more than to an 
elaborate Italian garden at the head of a lake, which in 
excellent taste is made to support numerous trees clipped 
into pleasing forms. But here, let it be observed, that 
while the Italian garden is quite extensive itself, the 
grounds, as a whole, are so large and so generally con- 
6picious is the natural style of gardening over extensive 
areas, that after all this fanciful feature is but a minor 
attraction of the place, and as such, certainly tends to 
add greatly to the charms of this private park. 

In figure 80 a number of forms of clipped trees are 
given. The globular form A, is adapted to a number 
of shrubs such as Deutzia, Japan Quince, Dwarf Mock 
Orange, and othei deciduous kinds, and Box, Dwarf 
Pines, Spruces, and Arbor Vitae, in evergreens. Forms 
B, D, H, J, may be applied to the common Hemlock, 
American or Siberian Arbor Vita?. E, D, H, or any other 
forms the beauty of which is nothing, unless attention 
is given to nicely shaping them, may be produced most 
perfectly from the Tree Box. The White Pine and Nor- 
way Spruce are well adapted to the styles shown in F and 
7, and the last named for G, G, E, and either this, Hem- 
lock or Arbor Vita? for the arbor L. 

In producing forms like the arbor L, and archway J, 
after the trees have become well established in their places, 
a stay rod of iron or wood is required at a suitable hight 
against which to tie the bended tops and branches, as 
necessary during the first stages of the work. 



HEDGES AND CLIPPED TREES. 



235 



The most suitable place for some clipped trees in 
gardens is in the vicinity of any portion devoted to 
the formal styles of planting. A pair of these on the 
sides of the walk near the entrance gate, or at the 
crossing of walks at right angles, or one placed as a 

C 




Fig. 80. — FORMS IN WHICH TREES MAT BE CUPPEH. 

central or terminal object of a walk or drive, or a few 
along the sides of these, and on terraces, may be very 
ornamental, provided always they are well sustained by 
grass or by other prominent features. Yet it is proper to 
recommend great caution against introducing them too 
freely, for unquestionably it is easy to overdo the matter. 



236 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

CHAPTER XXIII. 
GARDEN STRUCTURES. 

Whatever the size or nature of a garden, there is al- 
most always need of some kind of architectural struc- 
tures besides the main buildings, for adding to its 
comfort, security, and interest. Among these are fences, 
walls, railings, copings, seats, arbors, shelters, conserva- 
tories, lodges, tool houses, bird and animal houses, vases, 
trellises, fountains, statuary, terrace walls, sun dials, 
swings, bridges, boat houses, and sometimes aqueducts, 
viaducts, and in public parks, offices, museums, refecto- 
ries, amusement halls, etc. 

The guiding principles to the introduction of these 
should be, first their apparent need ; second their adap- 
tiveness to the purpose and place in view ; third, appear- 
ance of stability and tasteful design, and lastly, due re- 
gard to a right balance of the features of the garden, and 
especially between made and natural ones, to see that the 
former, which may be introduced chiefly for ornament, 
are in a sense subordinate to the latter. 

As to fences, walls, etc., it is apparent that gardens, 
and especially cemeteries, are more beautiful for exclud- 
ing these from the scene. Usually the less we can have 
of them the better for pure garden effect, to say nothing 
of expense saved in their construction. Still we cannot 
get along entirely without them. 

Where a guard is needed along streets and boundaries, 
the light ornamental iron fences now manufactured are 
excellent and interrupt the view but little. For many 
places hedges are very suitable instead of ordinary fences 
along the street, but if there would be an objection to a 
hedge in front of the house on account of its density, then 
just here an iron or other fence might take its place. 



GARDEN STRUCTURES. 237 

When wooden picket fences are used, as they common- 
ly are, the lighter and more simple they are in design, 
the better their appearance. It is in poor taste to spend 
money on excessive ornamentation of these or any other 
kind of common fences of wood or iron in the manner 
often seen. 

There might be much to recommend on the score of 
fine garden effect, in the custom common in some cities, 
of having no front fences even on large grounds. But 
their absence never allows the owner who thinks much 
of his garden surroundings, containing perhaps rare and 
prized specimens, to feel secure against intrusions from 
quadrupeds, children, etc. I observe that while a few years 
ago this custom seemed destined to prevail generally, now 
nearly all the best places of large size have some kind 
of fence or guard put up along the street. 

Hurdle fences, made of light wrought iron posts and 
bars, as often seen in the gardens of the British Isles, can at 




Fig. 81.— COPING AND ENTKANCE NEXT TO SIDEWALK. 

times be advantageously used in parks and large grounds. 
Instead of mowing all parts, large plats some distance 
from the house or prominent drives, may be surrounded 
with these and cattle and sheep be allowed to pasture 
within. By this course, direct use may be had of some 
parts of the grounds without the expense of mowing, and 
yet, being closely cropped by the animals, these areas may 
have the same appearance as the mowed parts. The in- 
troduction of live stock in this way, engaged in feeding 
or resting, adds much to the interest and effect in large 



238 



ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 



grounds. The hurdles may be so lightly constructed 
and yet strong, as to escape notice a short distance 
away. Where there are groups of trees or shrubs within 
the pastured plats, a line of hurdles may be used to en- 
close them, for protection from the animals. Wire fences 
can also be used for such purposes. 

A simple stone coping, as shown in figure 81, is perhaps 
the best substitute for a street fence where the latter is 
not desired. Such a coping scarcely interferes with the 
garden effect, serves to mark the boundary and also 
to turn off intruders, be they brutes or persons. A very 







'^•■■■^^^"vTTT'T^ii 










Hj^jTnlnJplnlji 1^ j^^lnlj^ll 










||| ||!;i !, !!||i|' "!lii»aiii!! , !"i | !i r i!, i..TTT 


II 


















"!'l I'r'^Ma ''" \_1: 


Hi 








WWtS 


^liLiapu.ii ft 










tt^-li':' j'l.- | V fe 


~r 




1 


[ " :!'' jiiilfiiFf 


fjljljl'!!'.'" "i |ii yf'ffl'fe^P'- 




(U 










till '[ii :, h I'Jhiil 


I'l'litl^l'liiir-irill^illi 








i 


[,,i ijj |:j 


11 


I 


i > 




tit 


! 


lllllmll IIJIllllJUII 


„.. 




:.,, 


..IJlll.'ll.lil.'llillllll 




1,1 



Fig. 82.— WALL OF STOKE, AND BED AND YELLOW BBICK. 

neat street guard may be made by running a low open 
iron fence along the top of a coping, like that illustrated 
in figure 81, or on a low brick wall one to two feet high. 

In grounds it is sometimes desirable to separate the 
kitchen-yard or garden, or the cow-yard from other 
parts, by a close wall or fence ; or sometimes these are 
needed for shutting out unpleasant views on rear streets. 
Where a hedge for any reason is inappropriate, walls of 
brick or stone, or of both, may be built, or if something 
cheaper is preferred, a fence can be erected of boards, 
either rough or planed. 

Figure 82 shows a wall of brick in two colors, and 
stone, and figure 83 a tiffht board fence, made of boards 



GARDEN STEUCTUEES. 



239 



four to eight inches wide, lapped on each other as shown 
in the engraving. By planting Virginia Creepers, 
Wistarias or other climbers, or training fruit vines and 



Fig. 83. — TIGHT BOARD FENCE, TOP VIEW. 



such walls, the blankness which would 
otherwise prevail is delightfully obviated. 

Balustrades and railings may be introduced at the 
head of a terrace slope, in situations where such archi- 
tectural decorations are warranted by proximity to the 
house, or by the general plan of the place. 



SEATS, AEBOES, AND SHELTEES. 



Seats, arbors, and shelters in pleasure grounds, are for 
both comfort and beauty, and to serve these ends should 




Fig. 84. — GARDEN SEAT SHADED BY CLIMBERS. 

be the first consideration in selecting them. Figure 84 
shows a garden seat which is shaded by an arch covered 
with climbers. For a neat, cheap, and strong garden 
seat, what is called the " Central Park Settee," or some 



240 



ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 



variation of it, made of two end frames of iron with ash 
slats for bottom and back, will answer well for almost any 
place. Rustic chairs and settees are very suitable for the 
garden. In selecting these, regard should be had to 
their being comfortable as seats and well made, for 
frequently they are not so ; one of the great objec- 
tions to every kind of rustic furniture, is the lack of dura- 
bility, especially when it is carelessly put together. 

Although expensive, perhaps the most beautiful, cer- 
tainly the most durable material for garden seats, is 
stone, for one of which figure 85 gives a good design. 
They may be made curving or straight, and of a 
length to suit the place to be occupied. 

A wooden seat, if well proportioned, neatly made, and 
kept thoroughly painted or oiled, answers very well for 




3. — A GARDEN SEAT OF STONE OR MARBLE. 



Fig. 86. WOODEN 
FOLDING SEAT, 
END SECTION. 



the garden. It may be made as shown by figure 86, with 
two pieces in the seat, the front half secured to the risers, 
and the back half so hinged that it can be turned over 
the front one, as the dotted lines indicate ; with this 
there may always be a dry bench, unsoiled by birds and 
quadrupeds. Any good house-joiner could make such a 
seat in a short time. The corners of the hinges that 
project above the surface of the seat should be rounded 
off with a file. A four-inch strip should be nailed on 
the back half of the bottom, as shown in the engraving. 



GARDEN STRUCTURES. 241 

For a structure to afford shade, there can be nothing 
more appropriate, in most places, than a simple skeleton 
arbor, as shown in figure 44, covered with a heavy mass 
of some rapid growing climber like Virginia Creeper, 
Trnmpet-vine, etc. If the pieces comprising the struc- 
ture are put together with a view to replacing any when 




Fig. 87. — A BUSTIC SUMMER-HOTTSE. 

they begin to decay, by taking out the old and slipping 
in new ones, they may be kept up for an indefinite time. 
Climbers however, that twine tightly around supports, 
like the Bitter Sweet, would not allow this plan to be 
carried out, but many others will. 

There are instances where something more pretentious 
than the skeleton arbor is wanted, such as a rustic arbor ; 
figure 87, which represents a type of garden architecture 
much liked when well made. In this six-sided arbor, 
three of the sides at the back are closed, and the interior 
surface of these as well as of the ceiling is covered with 
11 



242 



ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 



small, straight branches an inch or so in diameter, nearly 
uniform in appearance, arranged obliquely, as shown in 
the engraving. The outside of these parts is covered 
with sections of poles about three inches through or 
more, split in halves, and arranged with the bark outwards, 
obliquely or otherwise to suit the taste. One of the 
front sides affords entrance, and two others are about half 
open. The roof, in this instance, is heavily thatched 
with straw, which not only affords perfect protection to 
the structure, but being nine to twelve inches thick, it 
serves to render the arbor cool under the rays of a mid- 
summer sun. A seat is arranged against five sides of the 
interior. Many variations from this style, both as re- 
gards material and form, will suggest themselves to the 
ingenious. 

BRIDGES. 

Bridges across streams or ravines, afford a fine field 
for the display of taste and ingenuity as to designs. 




Fig. 88. — RUSTIC BRIDGE. 



Those of rustic work are very appropriate, and where 
taste is used in the selection and combination of ma- 
terials, they are peculiarly effective. Figure 88 shows a 
bridge of this style. This being raised in the centre, 
not only allows boats to pass underneath where the banks 



GARDEN STRUCTURES. 243 

are somewhat low, but it gives a commanding appearance 
to the structure, and affords a good out-look over the 
grounds. The elevated portion may be furnished with 
seats, and even converted into an arbor by roofing it, as 
can easily be done by carrying the posts of the upper 
level to about eight feet high, to support the roof. 

BIRD HOUSES AJSD OTHER SHELTERS. 

The three bird houses represented in figure 89, are of 
rustic material, and suitable for placing on poles or in 
trees. The left hand one consists of a section of a tree 
trunk, dug or burned out, and capped with a roof turned 
in a lathe and painted. The centre one is made of bark- 




-RTJSTIC BIRD HOUSES. 

covered slabs. Houses after either of these two patterns, 
may be large enough to accommodate two or more families, 
by partitioning them off into apartments, with an en- 
trance to each. The right hand cut shows a cluster of 
four houses, made of sections of branches. These are 
fitted up to accommodate occupants, by making a cavity 
in the side large enough for the nest, and to get in and 
out; afterwards replacing a shell of bark over the cavity 
to close it, and boring a hole from the end of the block 
for a door. In mounting these, the sides that are cut 
into should be placed downwards, to prevent water from 
entering. Nothing will better encourage the feathery 
songsters to be at home in the garden, than good houses 
like these and others they may suggest. 



244 



OKXAMENTAL GAKDENING. 



Where water fowl, deer, and other quadrupeds are in- 
troduced, the shelters for these look well constructed of 
rustic material. Rustic vases, window boxes, trellises, 
etc., are also desirable for ornament in certain places. 
There are a number of manufacturers of and dealers in 
rustic work in the country, who keep a regular stock of 
these and similar articles on hand. Every thing like 
overdoing in the introduction of rustic articles in the 
garden should be carefully avoided. 

BOAT HOUSES. 

Where the body of water in a garden is large enough 
and sufficiently deep for boats, these are generally intro- 




Mg. 90. — DESIGN FOR A BOAT HOUSE. 

duced. Figure 90 shows a boat house suitable for a lake 
or river side in a private garden, and may be built of cither 
brick, stone, or wood. Such a structure affords shelter to 
the boats, a place for getting in and out of them, aud in 
the above design, an observatory-room and veranda over 
the water. The upper floor is fitted for comfort by heat- 
ing it with a stove, to be used as -a look-out in the skat- 
ing season. 



GARDEN STRUCTURES. 



245 



PLANT HOUSES AND CONSERVATORIES. 

The general desire to render our homes beautiful by 
the help of tender plants and cut flowers, makes one more 
or less dependent upon plant houses suited for their cul- 
ture. If plants are not grown on the place, they are bought 
of the florists, and this is generally expensive, if a good 
showing is wanted. A plant conservatory in connection 
with the garden and home, may become, at a reasonable 
cost, a source of much beauty and pleasure, as well as profit 
the entire year through. The common bright flowers 




Sioe Ei.Ev'Af.ojl 
Fig. 91. — DETACHED CONSERVATORY IK GOTHIC STYLE, WITH PLAN. 

may be had freely, and the rare exotics may also be grown 
for adorning the house in winter as well as the garden in 
summer. In addition to growing plants and flowers, 
glass structures possess an ornamental character of their 
own, as adjuncts of a house and garden, that make them 
very desirable. It has been well said : " Glass houses 
are like luminaries in pleasure grounds, they spread a 
sunshiny gladness over all the other improvements, and 
make them look more delightful." 

A detached conservatory in the gothic style is shown in 



246 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

figure 91, with also the ground plan. Such a conservatory 
might be sufficiently large to meet almost every demand 
of a complete plant house for a moderate sized garden. 
A recommendation for this particular style is, that al- 
though exceedingly handsome, all the glass surfaces are 
straight. It would be difficult to give such or a similar 
structure a place in any grounds large enough to properly 
hold it, and not have it contribute effectively to the gen- 
eral adornment. For small grounds, other conservatories 




Fig. 92. — SMALL, CHEAP, LEAN-TO GREEN-HOUSE. 

quite as pleasing in design as this, may be planned, but 
smaller and either detached like this, or connected with 
the house. 

Figure 92 shows a small, cheap, lean-to green-house, 
which can be placed in almost any part of the grounds 
against a building. This is designed to meet the wants 
of those who like to have some means for growing plants, 
without any great outlay in the first cost, or who cannot 
readily so combine one with the house as to form a feature 
of its design. All conservatories attached to buildings 
should command a sheltered and sunny position. 

Some of the other architectural objects named in the 



PLANS OF PRIVATE GROUNDS. 24? 

beginning of this chapter, I pass by without giving them 
special attention. Some are articles that are purchasable, 
such as vases, statuary, sun dials, and the like, others 
are not in sufficient general demand to require space 
here, and when wanted, the landscape and building 
architect will be able to furnish suitable designs. On 
painting garden architecture see Part IV. 



CHAPTER XXIV. 

PLANS OF PRIVATE GROUNDS. 

The materials used in, and principles governing orna- 
mental garden-making, are mainly, the same for every 
place, but different gardens, of course, vary in size, 
shape, and natural character. For these reasons, I pro- 
pose in this work to pay special attention to describing 
materials, and the principles which should direct arrang- 
ing them tastefully — so that one who has a place, what- 
ever size or shape, to improve, may start on the right 
track for doing it well. I prefer to do this to giving 
many complete plans of grounds, and then perhaps it 
would be found, that not once in a thousand times would 
any of these fit this or that particular place. Still, some 
plans may serve a useful end, in suggesting the uniting 
of features with a view to complete effects, therefore I 
have chosen from a large collection such plans as I think 
will best answer this purpose. 

Beginning with plans of very small plats, say from half 
a rod to two rods each, it may be said, that here is a class 
in which a greater degree of uniformity prevails, as to 
size and shape, than in larger grounds, hence a little 
more attention is given to complete plans. Moreover, 
this class greatly outnumbers all others everywhere, and 



248 



ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 



are oftener totally neglected as regards embellishments 
than larger places. 

The use of two shrubs only, is shown in figure 93 ; 
these may be chosen from Weigela, Althasa (Rose of 
Sharon), Japan Quince, Privet, and others. The shrubs 
are upon a grass plat, with a climber over the door. Fig- 
ure 94 suggests the use. of more shrubs than are employ- 
ed in the last, and arranged in groups. The ground 
where they stand may be somewhat undulating for creat- 
ing as much variety as possible with good taste. Only 
few shrubs being used, the selection should be choice, 
consisting of those that afford a good variety in tints, in 
foliage, flowers, and in their season of bloom. Some of 




! and 94. — small front lots adorned with shrubs and grass 

ONLY, WITH CLIMBERS OVER THE DOORS OF THE HOUSES. 

the number might be dwarf evergreens, to give the eye 
something to rest on in winter. Small sized shrubs pro- 
portionate to the size of the grounds, are usually to be 
chosen for such places. The geometrical or straight lines 
of the house, street, and walks, have such an overpower- 
ing influence here, that there is little chance to work for 
the higher garden effects of breadth and freedom. And 
yet in these plans, the principle upon which such effects 
depend, is observed to the full degree allowable, and 
with good results. 

Plans for laying out small lots, using flowers freely in 
addition to shrubs and grass, are given in figures 95 and 
96. In both these lots, the ends farthest from the walks, 



PLANS OF PRIVATE GROUNDS. 



249 



as well as the border projection towards the walks, may 
be raised to be slightly mound-like. When speaking 
of giving a rounded elevation to such borders, I would 
add the caution to not raise them too high. Erom 




Figs. 95 and 96.— small front lots adorned with grass, shrubs, 

AND FLOWERS. 

six to eighteen inches at the highest points may be 
about right for the smallest sized lots thus laid out. 

Two small lots planned for using more flowers than 
anything else, are represented in figures 97 and 98. The 




Figs. 97 and 98.— small front lots with flowers predominating. 

spaces between the flower-beds may be filled either with 
grass or gravel, the former being decidedly preferable. 
Such arrangements are particularly suitable for persons 
who have a passion for growing flowers, and no other 
space in which to grow them. 

To carry out either of these plans in small places, 
ought not as a rule to cost more than ten or fifteen dol- 
lars for each, especially if those who are to use them do 



250 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

the work. Not much is thought of applying such 
amounts to the ornamentation of the house, yet if plans 
like these, or similar ones suggested, were applied to 
all the small lots of a neighborhood or a town, there 
would follow returns in the form of pure pleasure and 
healthfulness in such vicinities, not procurable in any 
other manner, or so cheaply. 

In England, and elsewhere in Europe, the smallest 
sized cottage lots are oftener improved than with us. To 
pass along the streets of some English towns, and see 
rows of houses, the little front plats of each tastefully 
laid out, planted, and well kept, one can easily have faith 
in the favorable influences of such improvements on the 
happiness of these homes. Contrasting such cottage 
grounds with the neglected ones so general in our favored 
land, one is impressed with the wide field open for 
improvements in this class of places everywhere through- 
out America. 

While the plans already given were designed for lots of 
the smallest sizes, several of them, for example those of 
figures 93, 94, and 96, would be adapted to front lots of 
a similar shape several times larger than those indicated, 
say from two to three square rods in each. Figure 98 
would be the best of these, because the central portion 
of the lawn is open, tending to impart an air of breadth 
and repose, a matter, the importance of which increases 
with the larger size of the plats. 

A long, narrow front yard is shown in figure 99 ; it is 
of moderate size, in which many shrubs are used, yet 
there is considerable open lawn, an arbor, several flower- 
beds, and a shade tree. Such an arrangement of borders 
and walks, the former planted with shrubs of all sizes 
and in large variety, with hardy and tender flowers, 
renders a small place exceedingly interesting to any lover 
of natural beauty in flowers, shrubs, and trees. Besides, 
such improvements may make a place seem far more 



PLANS OJP PKIVATE GROUNDS. 



251 



ample, than if laid out, as are many similar front lots, 
with only a straight walk through the center from the 
entrance to the door of the house, and perhaps not a tree 
or shrub around. If desired, a yase might be placed 




Fig. 99.— A DEEP FRONT LOT, LAID OUT TO ACCOMMODATE GRASS, 

flowers, shade trees, and an arbor.— Scale, 4 feet to i inch. 

in the center of the oval plat, but this is by no means 
required for general good effect. 

It may be observed by the plans presented in this 
chapter, that I am a strong advocate of the use of choice 
flowering and evergreen shrubs in groups, for embellish- 



252 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

ing home grounds, and particularly small ones. This is 
because it is found, that in such places good selections 
are certain of giving satisfaction, if they receive any- 
thing like fair treatment. Elsewhere I have called atten- 
tion to the special merits of this class, and I here quote 
Mr. Thomas Meehan, of the " Gardener's Monthly," re- 
garding the same point : 

" Shrubs are not nearly enough employed in planting 
small places. By a judicious selection, a place may be 
had in a blooming state all the year ; and they besides 
give it a greater interest by their variety, than is obtained 
by the too frequent error of filling up with two or three 
forest trees of gigantic growth. Plant thickly at first, 
to give a place a finished appearance, and thin out as 
they grow older. The average planter would have half 
a dozen plants scattered a dozen yards apart, because 
sometime in the future they would perhaps touch each 
other. We pass continually these weak conclusions, the 
little clumps near gate-ways will look like clumps some 
day; but why not have them now ? It is as easy to have 
the perfect body as the ugly skeletons lying around. 
Masses of shrubs have a fine effect in a small place. The 
centers of such masses should be filled with evergreen 
shrubs, to prevent a too naked appearance in the winter." 

Let it not be thought that belts or clumps of shrubs 
must make small grounds close and hot in summer for 
want of breeze. This might be, if these were wholly 
made up of tall shrubs planted thickly, but by having 
the margins varying in width, and then planting the 
narrowest parts with kinds, that in an age can not ex- 
ceed a hight of a few feet, and the wide parts with 
large growers, this need not happen. More than that, 
by having enough tall kinds here and there, to break 
the force of the wind, diverting it in different directions 
through the garden, a place may be all the more agreeable. 

An arrangement of shrubs in a town corner lot of 



PLANS OF PRIVATE GROUNDS. 



253 



about half au acre, with straight stone walks and drives, 
is shown in figure 100. The walk leading to the side 
street is almost hidden as seen from the front by shrubs, 
while the back walk and the drive are entirely hidden 
from every part of the grounds, by shrubs and a hedge. 
While the arrangement provides for some long vistas, to 
give an idea of extent, the projection of masses in a 
measure divides the ground into front, rear, and side 
portions. Each part being managed in a separate style, 
with shrubs and trees of varied character, the entire plat 




Fig. 100.— CORNER LOT, 110 BY 220 FEET, WITH STRAIGHT WALKS, 
PLANTED WITH A PROFUSION OF SHRUBS AND FLOWERS. 



is made to yield a great degree of satisfaction. The lawn 
effects are ample; although the borders encroach upon 
these to some extent, there is much advantage gained in 
the relief and support that comes from trees and shrubs. 
Then in the long, wavy outlines of the grass-plat that 
meet the eye, being as long or longer than the boundary 
lines themselves, the idea is conveyed that the area is 
much larger than it really is, and larger than it would 
appear without the improvements. 



254 



kX AM ENTA L Q ARDENING 

m 




Fig. 101. — GROUNDS THREE-FOURTHS OF AN ACRE IN EXTENT. — 

A, House; B, Front. Arbor; C. Entrance Walkthrough Shrubbery; D, Conserva- 
tory; E. Shed; .F, Rear Arbor covered with Climbers; G. Wild Garden; #. 
Rockery; /, Clothes-dry ing Ground; «/, Fruits and Vegetables; A', Mixed Border. 



PLANS OP PKIVATE GROUNDS. 255 

Figure 101 represents a garden of about three-fourths 
of an acre, with the walks curving instead of straight, 
as seen in the last. As may be seen by the explanations, 
there are numerous features embodied in this plan. 

The front arbor, B, might be surrounded with a dis- 
play of flowers, and some of these could also be intro- 
duced all along the edges of most of the shrubbery 
masses. The entrance from the street might be edged 
with stones, which, especially if the ground of the shrub- 
bery masses were raised to be mound-like, could be built 
up a foot or more to retain the raised earth, and thus 
creating an effect quite like that of a rockery. There are 
several fine open lawns adorned with flower-beds ; there 
are shade trees throughout the grounds, and altogether 
just enough intricacy and scattered points of interest, to 
lead a visitor to its charms by giving him something new 
at every turn. 

In figure 102 is shown a four-acre plat on a hillside, 
having a surface with a difference in elevation between 
the front and rear boundary lines of seventy-five feet — 
the rear being the highest. In these grounds rare op- 
portunities were afforded for introducing a great variety 
of features, from the finished grass plats and Italian 
garden with its clipped trees, architectural embellish- 
ments and hedge, to a most picturesque wild garden, 
with thickets, bluffs, rill, waterfall, lakelet, winding 
wood paths, etc. A picturesque arbor on the hillside, 
not only adds a pleasing effect to the grounds, as seen 
from the front, but it affords a fine view of the lower 
parts of the garden and distant outside scenery, as do 
also the walks and seats of lookout plateau. 

The plan on page 258, figure 103, is of a five and one-half 
acre garden. Here, in ground almost level throughout, 
there is sufficient area for introducing many attractive 
features, and yet preserving enough of openness for fine 
garden effects. A rill of water through the rear part, 



5356 



ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 




Fig. 102. — A FOUR ACRE PLAT ON A HILL-SIDE. 

A, Carriage Drive; B, Front Walk; D, Italian Garden on Hillside; E, Stairs In 

Walk; F, Kitchen and Fruit Garden ; G, Arbor Vibe Hedge; H, l.ook-out Plateau, 

75 feet above street level; I, Ri!l and Cascade; J, Lakelet ; K, Summer-House : 

L, Seat on Elevated Point. 



PLANS OF PEIVATE GKOUNDS. 257 

with considerable of an abrupt rise on each side, afforded 
opportunity for excavating a small lake. On the left- 
hand side beyond, but not far from the foot bridge, a 
picturesque rockery is formed, including a cave, through 
which extends a walk, that is broken by steps at the en- 
trance, and with a seat in the middle. A sharp knoll is 
formed here on the edge of the water, partly by the help 
of the cave arch, and on this is located a shady rustic 
arbor, the top of which is seen from the street. This 
arbor is reached from the rear by a walk with steps. The 
knoll is faced on one side with rocks rising out of the 
water, and there are several large rocks jutting out of the 
water near the opposite shore. On the cave side these 
are arranged to allow the planting of shrubs, vines, and 
plants among them, thus forming a kind of rock-garden. 
While in some places of the rocky knoll, the stones over- 
hang the water as seen in the plan, further on towards 
the bridge, the rockwork runs back somewhat from the 
water's edge, affording walking room between. Opposite 
the arbor across the lake is a carriage stand. There is a 
small wooded isle, towards the other end of the lake, 
with a boat shelter near. At several places about the 
lake are opportunities for making wild-gardens. A hedge 
of spruce, and some clumps of shrubs and trees, cut off 
the vegetable and fruit garden, carriage house, and 
laborer's cottage from the garden, as shown in the plan. 

One objection to the making of more drives in small 
grounds than are needed to reach the stable is, that they 
are apt to lack dignity through being too tortuous. While 
such is not the case in the present instance, still had it 
not been for the unusual attractiveness of the rear 
grounds — proving a great delight to visitors in carriages, 
the back drive through the grounds would not have been 
planned here. 

Much could be said in favor of home plats and pleasure 
grounds, being managed on a joint plan for making them 



258 



ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 




Fig. 103.— A FIVE AND ONE-HALF ACRE GARDEN. 

The location of some of the leading features are shown hythe letters as fol- 
lows :— A, House, with Conservatory attached; B, Drives; C. Walks; D, Grapery, 
located on Floral Lawn; E, Barn; F, Laborers' Cottage; G, Arbors; H, Lake, 
with Rockery and Wild Garden adjacent; 7, Vegetables and Fruit. 



PLANS OF PRIVATE GROUNDS. 



259 



more attractive, through working with the extent of area 
that conies from throwing a number of them together 
into one. The common trouble with the average garden 
is, that owing to limited area, and then the detraction 
that comes from positive lines of boundaries, buildings, 
and walks, it is not easy to produce free garden effects. 
The larger the garden, the less difficulty we meet here, 
therefore it will often be advisable to throw a number of 
these together to be managed and enjoyed jointly, all 
with a view to having finer effects, and more gratifying 
results generally. 

Figure 104 shows a row of town houses, fifty feet back 
from the line of the street, with the ground at the front 
treated on such a plan. It is easily seen how much more 
satisfactory such a garden may be, in almost every way, 




Fig. 104.— GARDEN FRONT TO A ROW OF HOUSES, USED AND KEPT UP 
JOINTLY. 



than several narrow ones instead, each arranged on a 
plan of its own. From any house of this row, the eye 
may meet a beautiful garden scene, possessing breadth, 
character, and a good variety of embellishments and 
bringing pleasure and rest, such as no narrow twenty by 
fifty-foot garden or any number of them could afford. 
There comes a gain also, in the items of expense for 



200 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

making and keeping, by such an arrangement. Let there 
be one garden to lay out, improve and keep up, and it 
could be done for one-half the money required for plant- 
ing and keeping the same piece, if cut into seven gardens 
with seven plans, and calling for seven bargains for con- 
struction and keeping. 

If real estate owners, who in so many cases put up 
rows of dwellings, would plan for having gardens of this 
kind, the increased attractions would at once allow of 
such an advance in rents, as could easily make up, and 
more too, for the land and the expense of making a really 
fine garden and caring for it. In such a case, the land- 
lord might be the one to see the garden cared for. If 
owned by the people who occupy them, the management 
could devolve upon a trustee chosen by the owners, or 
they could themselves take yearly turns at keeping. 

Figure 105 shows how three long lots of several acres- 
each, side by side, may be thrown into one, and treated 
as a good sized joint garden, possessing many delightful 
features. All the parts are kept up and used jointly, 
excepting in the immediate vicinity of each house. 
There are three arbors, one near each house, which are 
designed for private use, as are also ample clothes-drying 
lawns. Each proprietor has a carriage house, two of 
them under one roof; each a share in a vegetable garden, 
shown in the upper right-hand corner. 

This arrangement has much to recommend it in 
many respects. The grounds are immeasurably finer in 
garden effect than could be secured in working with di- 
vided areas. There is a grove of wood at the left ; a 
fair lakelet with drive crossing it by a bridge, broad areas 
of lawn, and an extended carriage drive ; not one of 
which features could be well carried out on a third por- 
tion of the whole, while by this plan such a general 
amplitude prevails, that all the families can have abun- 
dant room. 



PLANS OF PRIVATE GROUNDS. 



261 



The conservatory is three in one, each family having a 
wing with a central bed for show plants, contributed 
by all, and is large enough and well designed for creat- 




Fig. 105.— THREE TOWN RESIDENCES. 

The rear grounds of which are thrown into a Park and Pleasure Ground, with 

Conservatory, Vegetable Garden, etc., used and supported conjointly. Three 

Houses, two Stables, Laborer's Cottage, Boat Houses, Jive Arbors, three 

of ivhich are private, etc. 

ing a fine effect as seen from all parts of the grounds. 
The floral circle in the left half of the grounds, is another 
beautiful feature, owing much of its effect to the large- 



262 



ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 



ness of the combined gardens. It is readily reached by 
both walks and drives. 

There are two carriage and four foot entrances, all of 
which lead conveniently to the houses and the rear pleas- 
ure gardens. 

Of course, there is no limit to the variations allowable 
in carrying out this system. Any number of houses and 
gardens, and of any size, might be embraced wbere suit- 
ably situated. Tbe idea of both a front and rear garden, 
as shown in figure 104, and the other in figure 105, might 
sometimes be combined, giving place for a close row of 
houses, or a number of double houses, or instead of having 




Fig. 106.— GROUNDS NEAR BUFFALO PARK. 

the houses a uniform distance from the street, they might 
be scattered over the grounds, fronting on the gracefully 
curved drives. 

A style of arranging town suburbs and summer resorts, 
has been developed in connection with some large public 
parks, both in America and England, which is worth 
noticing here. 

The idea is well illustrated by the engraving, figure 



PLANS OF PRIVATE GROUNDS. 263 

106, which shows a section of Buffalo Park with adjacent 
lands called "Parkside," planned for laying out with 
curved drives and avenues, and irregularly shaped build- 
ing lots, the former connecting with the park drives and 
circles at convenient distances. 

This principle is applicable to suburbs independent of 
parks, and particularly to summer resort villages, such 
as are now springing up throughout the country, where- 
ever there are spots possessing natural attractions, out- 
lying large towns and cities. The success of these de- 
pends as much upon the joint action of property owners 
from year to year, as upon laying out the grounds origi- 
nally, to have graceful, winding highways, instead of the 
usual straight streets and sharp angles. In the plan 
illustrated, the sections formed average about twelve acres 
in extent, and these divide up into from three to twelve 
building lots each — large enough to admit of carrying- 
out a joint system of laying out and keeping up each one 
with fine effect. 

As wealth and a love for ornamental gardening increase 
in our land, there are more persons owning farms who 
enjoy improving them in matters beautiful, as well as 
useful. A good deal of landscape garden beauty may be 
combined with most farms, without impairing their value 
for raising crops or live stock. Figure 107 is a plan for 
laying out a small farm ornamentally. As shown there 
are six fields, besides orchards, groves, kitchen garden, 
and grass plats, adorned with trees, shrubs, flowers, etc. 
The driveways from the street lead gracefully to the main 
buildings, and throughout the farm. The grass plats in 
front of the house and the barn, as well as any others, 
may be kept closely clipped with the lawn mower, or 
else — especially the larger ones — they may be mown 
three or four times during the season for feeding to live 
stock. In such a plan the fields may be surrounded by 
hedges, or sometimes advantageously by wire fences. By 



264 



ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 




Fig. 107.— FARM PLANNED WITH PARK-LIKE DRIVES AND OTHER OR- 
NAMENTAL FEATURES. 



The House is located nearest to the street, a trifle to the right of the center, and 
the Barn a little further back to the left. 



PORTICO, WINDOW, AND ROOF GARDENS. 265 

running a wire fence around the plat, immediately back 
of the barn, and using it as a permanent pasture, it will 
present from the street and house the appearance of an 
extension of the ornamental grounds, because the grass 
being kept closely pastured, will look as well as if shorn 
with the lawn mower, while the fence may be so incon- 
spicuous as hardly to be seen a short distance off. 

By running a lane from the pasture down through the 
center of the next section beyond, to the farm circle, lo- 
cated in the most distant point of the drive, live stock 
can easily be driven to any lot of the farm if desired. 

In the plan, a walk leads from the house to the right, 
past a flower bed in the lawn, to the kitchen garden, 
thence near the drive, with shrubs and hardy flowers in 
places at the side, to the grove on the right. Here is a 
comfortable arbor to afford shelter, both from sun and 
rain. An arbor somewhat different in style from this one, 
occupies a grass plat in the center of the rear circle. 
Between the drive and fence of this circle, there are five 
spaces of grass that may have beds cut in them to be 
filled with shrubs and plants. 

A farm of any size, or a fruit and vegetable garden, 
laid out on some such plan, may prove on this account 
in itself a great source of pleasure to the residents of 
the place, as well as to visitors. 



CHAPTER XXV. 

PORTICO, WINDOW, AND ROOF GARDENS. 

Many persons live in houses that have no garden plats 
attached to them, but there is no need of their being 
altogether deprived of the pleasure of growing plants. 
Some of these houses have porticoes, all have windows, 
and every building has a roof, and these having access to 
12 



266 



ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 



the needed air and light, may allow a great deal of gar- 
dening above terra fir ma. 

Of such gardening, that done in outside window 
boxes and portico boxes is the most common, because the 
little gardens are easily preimred, are adapted to every 
place, and generally prove very successful. Figure 108, 
showing one of the former, will give an idea of the man- 




Fig. 108. — WENDOW BOX WITH CLIMBERS. 

ner in which these are made and arranged. For win- 
dows, a box is made, measuring for inside dimensions 
five inches and upwards deep, and the same in width, 
and of a length corresponding to the width of the win- 
dow, the sill of which it is to set upon. Portico boxes 
may be the same as regards width and hight, but the 



POETTCO, WINDOW, AND EOOF GARDENS. 267 

length is usually greater. These are placed on the rail- 
ing of the veranda, or on the floor at the front of the 
railing, sometimes at the end of the veranda only, but 
most frequently along the entire front. When placed on 
the rail, they are made in sections to fit between the 
posts, but if on the floor at the front, they may be con- 
tinuous. 

I desire to impress the importance of ample size for 
such boxes. If made six inches high, and six," eight, or 
even ten wide, the plants will be the better for it. Beauty 
here depends largely on their being well filled with good 
sized, vigorous plants, and such require a fair bulk of 
earth in which to grow. Window boxes may be made 
with a bottom outline shaped as in figure 109, and pro- 
ject beyond the window sill (indicated by the dotted 



n 



Fig. 109. — plast or window box 
line), both in front and at the ends. In this shape they 
can be plenty large enough, and will look well. The pro- 
jecting weight may be in part sustained by a wire at each 
end, running to a hook or strong screw at the top of the 
window frame, and on these wires climbing plants may 
be trained. 

A pleasing arrangement of boxes for houses built with 
the square, regular fronts, so common in towns, is to 
have a box run the whole width of two or more windows, 
and the space between, or along the entire front, resting 
on the sill projections. In a three story building — the 
first floor being stores, and the others living apartments, 
if a box is thus run the entire length at the second story 
windows, and then for the third story a single box is 
provided for each window, with none between, the effect 
as seen from the street, is very fine. 



268 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

The plants most suitable for such boxes, are those of 
drooping habit for along the edges, and climbers may 
be used if desired, for the sides of windows, or posts of 
the veranda, and then bright, free-flowering plants, such 
as Geraniums, Heliotropes, Cuphea, Fuchsias, and showy- 
leaved Dracaenas, Begonias, Aspidistra, Coleus, Achyran- 
thes, Dusty Miller, Caladiums, Cannas, etc. In fact, 
where space and sufficiency of soil admit, there need be 
no particular limit in the selection. 

The Hanging Basket is a well known ornament, par- 
ticularly suitable for suspending from the roof of the 
portico, or from a projecting hook in front, or at the side 
of a window. The most common material of which these 
are made is wire, the basket to be lined with moss, 
and rustic earthenware or fancy crockery ware. Here it 
should be observed that quite a number of plants are 
brought closely together, and the best results will not fol- 
low with a receptacle for earth too small to properly 
hold them. Whatever their kind, those measuring ten 
inches and upwards across, unless very deep, are best. 
If less than ten inches, they may look well when started, 
but with hot weather, and increased growth, they will 
not keep thus, but die out quickly. The plants named 
for window boxes, are also suitable for hanging baskets. 

PLANT VASES, BOXES, AND LARGE PAINTED FLOWER 
POTS. 

These are often used for decorating railings, posts, 
roofs, and the lawn. They do not differ materially as to 
their planting, from the hanging baskets and window 
boxes. In all attempts at growing plants in these recep- 
tacles, above all else the soil should be in fertile condi- 
tion, for be it remembered, that much growth and beauty 
are expected from a small bulk of earth, consequently it 
should be the best attainable. Any good soil of loamy 
texture, well enriched with fine, old manure, will answer. 



PORTICO, WINDOW, AND ROOF GARDENS. 269 

ROOF GARDENS. 

A garden upon the roof affords a means of plant-grow- 
ing, either in the open air or in a green-house, that we 
hope to see made much of in the near future. We talk 
about not having gardens in the cities, because there is 
no room. Is there less superficial area exposed directly 
to the light of the heavens after building than before ? 
The area is the same, but only so much nearer the light 
and pure air. In most cases, where there are flat roofs, 
and there could readily be more of them, there would 
be found ample opportunity for cultivating a fine collec- 
tion of hardy and tender plants, even in the hearts of 
cities. 

One of the finest public gardens in Europe is the "Wa- 
verly Garden of Edinburgh, being really a roof garden 
over a market building. It embraces an area of about 
seventy-five by four hundred feet, all of which, except 
where there are some sky-lights, is devoted to flowers, 
grass, vases, walks, and seats. There are sixteen bor- 
ders, averaging some seventy-five by four feet, besides a 
number of smaller square beds, and altogether using 
thousands of fine plants. There is also a large bed of 
grass kept neatly mown. 

The beds and borders contain about a foot in depth of 
soil, and this is retained by a neat stone coping through- 
out. The edge of the roof, and the sky-lights, are 
guarded by ornamental railings, with posts, and these 
support many well filled vases of plants, fully one hun- 
dred in all. Taken altogether, this roof garden, with no 
advantages beyond those common to thousands of roofs 
throughout our cities, is a most charming place, afford- 
ing delight to all who visit it. 

The engraving (fig. 110), with the quoted matter 
which follows, appeared in the " American Agriculturist " 
some time ago from the pen of Samuel B. Parsons, Esq., 



270 



ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 



of Flushing, N. Y. They bear so forcibly upon this 
subject, that I present them here : 

"It is within the means of every man who builds a 
house to rent for eight hundred dollars per year, to have 
a garden on the roof, which, during the summer, can be 
filled with the most luscious fruits, and in the winter 
with plants, the beauty of which will afford a charm far 
beyond the trifling cost of maintenance. 

"A glass roof costs but little more than a slate or tin 
one. Let the roof, therefore, be covered with glass, and 
let the garret floor be covered with concrete, sloping 




Fig. 110.— A KOOF CONSERVATORY. 

gently from the center to the sides, around which a 
slight depression in the floor can carry the moisture or 
drip into the leaders, which pass from the roof of every 
house to the ground, and with slight expense a perfect 
green-house may be had. Now for heating. Every one 
knows that the upper rooms of his house are so warm 
from the ascending heat of his furnace, that registers are 
scarcely needed. Let the doors be kept open, and the 
waste heat of the house will keep the green-house at the 
highest desirable temperature without any extra trouble 
or expenditure. 

" Its care would be a pleasant recreation for any of the 



PORTICO, WINDOW, AND ROOF GARDENS. 



271 



family. A lady fresh from such occupations, would lend 
new charms to the evening hours, and the memory of 
her children in the upper air, would always have power 
to bring a sparkle to her eye, or a glad expression to her 
lip. There are numerous florists in every city who would 
be glad to keep such a place in perfect order for a very 
moderate compensation. 

" If a little extra strength is given to the beams which 
sustain the upper floor, suf- 
ficient earth could be placed 
there to lay out the whole 
space as a perfect garden, 
with winding walks, de- 
lightful carpets of green, 
and roses, camellias, etc., 
planted in the soil. 

"If the capabilities of 
this plan, and its economy 
were thoroughly understood 
by architects and proprie- 
tors, the time would soon 
come, when a roof garden 
would be considered just as 
essential an appendage to 
a house as a bath-room." 

AN" ATTACHED CONSER- 
VATORY. 



Figure 111 represents a 
small conservatory, built 
over a bay window, and 
reached from the second 
floor. Where it would be un- 
desirable to have a conser- 




Fig. 111.— CONSERVATORY OVER 
BAY-WINDOW. 



vatory or garden on the top of the house, such a one from 
being smaller, as well as more convenient, might be prefer- 



272 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

red, and it would be practicable to combine it with almost 
any house in one shape or another. The heating could 
be done by extending the warming system from the house 
into the plant apartment. With the beautiful, irregular 
styles of houses that are now so much in demand, it 
would be no trouble to plan excellent small conservatories 
to be parts of them, not only serving to make the home 
more interesting to the inmates, but adding additional 
grace and brightness to the building as seen from the 
street. If there were gardens adjacent to the house 
needing bedding plants in the spring, some of these for 
the summer flower beds and vases could be propagated 
towards each spring, in addition to growing flowers 
throughout the year, and the space thus turned to a 
profitable, as well as a pleasure vielding account. 



CHAPTER XXVI. 

CHURCH, SCHOOL, ASYLUM, HOTEL, AND RAILROAD 
GARDENS. 

It is gratifying to see the disposition manifested in 
some places to improve with garden embellishments the 
surroundings of schools and other institutions, such as 
are named in the heading. There is room for good work, 
for I can think of nothing that can go farther towards 
educating the people to appreciate and desire fine gar- 
dens, than to establish them in places where they are 
sure to be seen by many observers. 

It is painful to admit that perhaps not one in ten coun- 
try school houses is shaded by a single tree, or shows any 
other garden embellishment whatever. In fact, a school- 
house may usually be recognized by its bleak appearance, 
and the entire absence of trees, shrubs, climbers, and 



CHURCH, SCHOOL, ETC., GARDENS. 273 

flowers. There is no excuse for this, because the stock 
necessary to improve the grounds, need not cost much, if 
bought, while in most cases no outlay would be required, 
as native plants and trees could be had for the digging. 
School trustees should see to it, that the work is done in 
every district, not by planting only, but also by properly 
protecting the trees, etc. 

That there is little danger that trees will be damaged 
in school yards if somewhat protected, and with 
proper rules respecting their safety, is shown by the 
many cases of city school yards that abound in shade 
trees. Here, in fact, may sometimes be found the other 
extreme, and almost as objectionable as the one alluded 
to above — namely, too many trees. 

In carrying out such improvements, the best way is to 
plant the trees in clusters, so that plenty of air and sun- 
light, as well as shade, may be present. 

Figure 112 shows a school yard designed to present 
a great deal of natural beauty and variety, as well as 
to afford comfort to the children. It is intended that the 
general surface be finished with gravel, or other hard 
material, instead of grass. In the figure A, A, represent 
shrubbery and flower borders about eight feet wide, well 
guarded against intrusion from the children, by a stone 
or brick coping one foot high, with or without an addi- 
tional light iron guard on the top. B is an ornamental 
raised bed or terrace, about a foot high at the lowest 
part, with the soil retained by a coping similar to that 
around A, A. From this terrace, which is grass-covered, 
a second one, smaller in diameter, rises above the surface 
about a foot, and is also retained by a coping of stone or 
briek. This one is surmounted by low-growing, bright 
flowers. C, C are grass-covered slopes of about two and a 
half feet rise, and surmounted by low-growing, attractive 
shrubs. By the novel means of such slopes, some grass 
for beauty may be had in perfect order, without danger 



274 



ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 



of its being trampled out of existence. D is a strip of 
grass, on which is planted a heavy line of shrubbery, to 
form a dividing line. There are also four shrubbery and 
flower-borders against the school-house in the plan as 
shown, also protected by copings. Strong-growing shade 
trees are scattered about, and climbers adorn the buildings, 
with some vigorous-growing shrubs or evergreens set to 




Fig. 112. — SCHOOL YARD IMPROVED WITH TREES, ETC. 

hide the outhouses. A school yard like this, with little 
attention, proves very attractive, and when it is tried it 
is surprising how soon the children learn to respect and 
love the adornments. With a good selection of trees, 
shrubs, and flowers, there may be an abundance of bloom 
all through the warm season, besides grass and shade. 
Such arrangements in the school yard might also be of 



CHURCH, SCHOOL, ETC., GARDENS. 275 

great service in furnishing materials for the study of 
botany. 

In the larger grounds, common about high schools and 
colleges, usually a style of gardening more natural in its 
features may be employed, owing to the more favorable 
circumstances. Sometimes very fine displays of ornament- 
al gardening, as well as more useful botanical gardens are 
established, as at Harvard and elsewhere. Such improve- 
ments find appreciation from the patrons of the schools, 
and may readily be made to add much to their complete- 
ness as educational institutions. 

TREATMENT OE CHURCH YARDS. 

In adorning church yards, the aim should be towards 
introducing quiet and graceful beauty, consequently such 
trees as the Camperdown Weeping Elm, Kilmarnock 
Willow, Yellow Wood, Ginkgo, and the evergreens and 
flowering shrubs are to be preferred. There should be a 
great deal of clear lawn in proportion to other embel- 
lishments. Whatever trees are introduced should not 
be crowded, but receive a free setting well supported by 
grass, while the shubbery and evergreens may be ar- 
ranged in well defined clumps. The climbers should be 
freely used for mantling the outside walls in places, and 
especially in those numerous cases where there are no 
garden surroundings. 

GARDENS EOR HOSPITALS AN"D ASYLUMS. 

Some of the most successful ornamental gardens in 
the country are those associated with hospitals, insane 
and other asylums. It is found that money may be as 
profitably spent in providing fine lawns, trees, shrubs, 
flowers, green-houses, etc., for aiding in the relief of un- 
fortunates, as in any other direction for rendering these 
institutions as xiseful as possible. 



276 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

Mr. Peter Henderson, in writing to the "American Ag- 
riculturist" of the fine gardens connected with the State 
hospitals for the insane, Mendota, Wis., says: "But 
the most important feature of the garden operations at 
this asylum is the employment of the patients as work- 
men. An average of fifteen are employed in the summer 
months during the growing season, who work on an 
average six hours each day, and Mr. Schatzka, who is 
evidently a careful and intelligent observer, assures me 
that the effect on the health of the patients is marked. 
The result is that a greater number of the garden hands 
have been discharged as cured in proportion to numbers 
than of others. Mr. Schatzka manages, by the aid of 
hot-beds, to fill numerous beds that are laid out in the 
lawn in front of the hospital with flowering plants. 
These he quaintly terms an ' eye pasture ' for the 
patients. These beds give enough flowers to form bou- 
quets for the sick wards during the summer months, and 
thus are a source of great pleasure to scores of the un- 
fortunates within. Believing in the soothing effects of 
flowers on some species of insanity, a gentleman recently 
left a fund of ten thousand dollars for erecting a winter 
garden or conservatory, to be used as a promenade 
ground for the patients at an insane asylum in Ohio. 

" Such a garden might be attached with profit to vari- 
ous other kinds of public institutions, for in nearly all 
cases the labor could be mainly done by the inmates, not 
only without cost, but to their physical, mental, and 
moral advantage. The grounds surrounding the various 
public buildings on Black well's Island, New York, and 
at Flatbush, Long Island, are, and have been so for 
many years, models of excellent cultivation, and reflect 
credit on the management ; but there are many others 
in the suburbs, and hundreds in all sections of the coun- 
try, where no attempt whatever has been made, and in 
others it is so feeble that it has amounted to nothing. 



CHURCH, SCHOOL, ETC., GARDENS. 277 

There is no excuse for this. There are always men fitted 
to take charge of such work to be had for moderate sal- 
aries, who, with the free labor of the inmates of the in- 
stitutions, many of whom would like the work, could 
produce results that would add vastly to the comfort and 
health of the inmates, to say nothing of the saving to the 
county or State." 

Institutions of this character usually embrace a consid- 
erable extent of farm lands. In some cases these may, 
with good effect, be laid out something as shown in fig- 
ure 107, which, while allowing the land to be utilized for 
garden and farm purposes may be laid out with reference 
to landscape garden effects. I recently made plans for 
laying out the grounds of a County Poor and Insane Asy- 
lum, the large buildings of which stand elevated some six 
hundred feet from the highway. The land between the 
buildings and the street was the best on the farm for 
gardening purposes, and had for many years been de- 
voted to vegetable growing. In the new plan, while 
drives and walks were provided for through the front 
portion, these were so arranged as to leave several large 
areas in this front part for garden crops. Between the 
drives and these plats, liberal breadths about thirty-five 
feet wide are to be in grass, and kept nicely mowed as 
well as embellished with trees, shrubs, etc. On the 
whole it is planned for having t about as much of the 
front devoted to vegetables as to ornamental gardening, 
and the former, so long as the garden is well kept up, 
detracts very little from the ornamental effect of the place, 
while practical minded tax-payers enjoy the combination 
and say it looks better thus. 

In the great hotel building enterprises of the day, 
there is often a good opportunity to devote a part of the 
vast outlay to rendering them attractive by introducing 
some garden features. Where it is possible to embrace a 
small garden area on the ground, this would be the best 



278 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

form of ornament. Otherwise provision could be made 
for some roof and veranda gardens. What can go farther 
towards making a hotel attractive to the guests, than to 
have the dining-room and other windows opening upon 
a garden filled with neatly kept grass, bright flowers, 
and beautiful shrubs, together with walks, and perhaps 
vine-covered seats or arbors. The refreshing beauty and 
comfort of such a spot would be appreciated by the trav- 
elling public, and no doubt in many instances would 
serve to make a hotel a favorite over rivals not having 
these attractions. 

The enterprise manifested by some of the great rail- 
roads in the way of improved stations and station gar- 
dens, may be considered as a beginning in the right di- 
rection in what may be called "Railroad Gardening," 
and an example that must sooner or later be followed 
by all our railroad companies. The manner of keeping 
up lands along railroad lines and about stations in Eng- 
land, and elsewhere in Europe, is in marked contrast 
with this country. There nearly all railroad lands at 
the side of the tracks are made even, and whether level 
or sloping are well finished, put into grass and mown 
like a park. Masses and lines of trees are introduced in 
some places. What abundant chances for improvement 
in this direction are afforded by the American railroads 
generally- One may travel thousands of miles in the 
Atlantic States and see little besides weeds, thistles, and 
brambles scattered over a rough surface, and through 
unshapely ditches, with boulders and stumps along the 
tracks. It would cost something to bring the lands into 
proper shape for grass, but in the long run, improvements 
of this kind would pay, aside from the increased attrac- 
tiveness of the road to travellers, for it would require 
less expense to keep the surface mowed occasionally (the 
grass yielded ought to pay for this) than is now required 
in the occasional hacking away of weeds and brush, be- 



PCBLIC PARKS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS. 279 

sides there would be less danger from fire should the 
sparks fall on the grass than might result from their 
dropping in the dry rubbish so common by the sides of 
the track. 



CHAPTER XXVII. 
PUBLIC PAEKS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS. 

The subject of public parks and pleasure grounds for 
recreation, is one that is destined to grow in interest in 
this country. The making of these is now only in its in- 
fancy, yet in view of their healthfulness and their impor- 
tance to the public, there is little doubt that they will re- 
ceive increased attention. The limits of the present work 
do not allow much space to be devoted to these, yet an 
attempt will be made to give such hints and suggestions 
as may be useful to those who consider the subject. 

BOTH PRESENT AND FUTURE WANTS TO BE CONSIDERED. 

In all cases where public gardens are contemplated, 
the scheme should be comprehensively conceived and ex- 
cuted. Even in initiatory discussions of the subject, it 
would be unwise to have in view merely the present 
needs, but a broad view of the probable future growth 
and wants of a town should enter into the calculations. 
The important fact that results which follow on such 
improvements reach far into the future must not be 
lost sight of. It is safe to assume that most of the pub- 
lic parks and gardens, laid out and planted now, will 
figure as important town gardens when our population 
will, in most places, have increased many fold. How 
quickly that time may arrive, who can tell ? Sixty years 
ago our entire population was about nine millions, with 



280 OKNAMENTaL gardening. 

but nine cities in the Union of more the ten thousand 
inhabitants. Now we number above fifty million of peo- 
ple, and we have two hundred aud fifty towns of more 
than ten thousand inhabitants. The child who lives 
sixty years from now may then be one of a population of 
one hundred and fifty millions or upwards, in the whole 
country, and will witness a proportionate increase in the 
average towns as great or greater. Yet sixty years is a 
comparatively short period in the life of an ornamental 
garden. In Europe there are many gardens that are 
more than four times as old. Some of the woody resorts 
in Rome have been woody resorts from the time of the 
Caesars. Oaks, Chestnuts, and other trees that enter 
into gardens and parks as conspicuous embellishments 
are known to have lived from five hundred to two thou- 
sand years, and many of these are only in full prime, 
after they have been planted for a generation or longer. 
All these poirits suggest that the work of public garden 
making should be fixed on the broad basis of adaptabil- 
ity to the wants of ages — so far as these may be con- 
jectured — rather than solely to immediate needs. The 
beauty of hundreds of American cities, of the next and 
future generations, will depend in a large measure on the 
manner in which the present generation shall meet the 
trust of initiating town embellishments. The subject is 
one that ought to be handled as wisely as its importance 
deserves, so that in time, the average of our towns may 
be, what they are not yet, the most beautiful on the face 
of the globe, so far as public gardening may serve to 
make them so. 

AN IDEAL SYSTEM OF PUBLIC TOWN GARDENING. 

What maybe considered an ideal system of public town 
gardens ? Briefly it is one that for the least outlay se- 
cures the greatest benefits in the way of wholesome rec- 



PUBLIC PARKS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS. 281 

reation, comfort, beauty, and healthfullness, to the greatest 
number for the longest time. There should be such a 
distribution of garden effects as to ensure accessibility 
from all parts of the town, those inhabited by the poor 
as well as the rich, and should contribute in the best 
possible way to the attractiveness of the whole place. 
Convenience and beauty should be considered as import- 
ant in helping to build up a town as trade and manufac- 
tures are. So much of attractiveness should be aimed at 
by means of gardens, that few would prefer to live per- 
manently out of the town that gives them their business. 
And then only that system, which will provide for future 
growth, ought to be acceptable with our many growing 
towns. 

"BEAUTIFUL PARIS" AS A MODEL. 

Among all the cities of the globe, Paris, France, per- 
haps, comes nearest to possessing such an ideal as has 
been outlined. What has given to her the proud position 
of being the most beautiful city in the world, has been, 
as muoh as anything, the admirable arrangement of her 
streets, gardens, and boulevards, and the effective location 
of public structures throughout the city in relation to 
these. And this city, beautiful, convenient, healthful, and 
economically governed, should prove an interesting one 
for our people to look to as an example in the present 
age of city making for lessons in rendering our own cities 
similarly attractive. 

In figure 113 is shown a plan of the boulevard and 
public garden system of Paris (inside the walls — more 
than one thousand ordinary streets being omitted), which 
gives an idea of the manner in which these open up 
all parts of a vast city of two million of people, bringing 
air, sunshine, grass, and trees — the latter in numbers 
reaching into hundreds of thousands — so as to leave no 
part of the town far from some of them. Go where one 



282 



ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 



will iii this metropolis, and the lengths of but a few 
blocks can be passed over without coining upon a delight- 
ful, airy avenue, usually from one hundred to two hun- 
dred feet wide, partly shaded with from two to six rows 
of trees, with inviting settees at close intervals. Small 
parks, varying from three to forty acres each, are well dis- 
tributed, and mostly excellent models for town gardens. 




Fig. 113.— BOULEVARDS AND PUBLIC GARDENS OF PARIS. 

A, the Louvre and Gardens of the Tuileries ; B, Champs Elysees : O, Arc of 
Triomphe; D, The Bois (Park) de Boulogne; E, Pare Monceau ; F, Square des 
Batignolles; O, Pare des Butts Ohaumont : H, Place de la Bastile ; 7, Place de 
la Nation; J, Bois (Park) de Vincennes ; A'. Garden of Plants; L, Luxem- 
bourg Garden; M, Pare Montsouris; N, Frocadero GardeD ; 0,Wall skirted 
by a Boulevard. 

As may be seen, the general arrangement of boulevards 
was made with a view to convenience, as well as beauty. 
The Louvre at A being the central point, in general their 
courses are in diverging lines from this part — opening 



PtTBLIC PARKS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS. 283 

direct communications between the center and extremi- 
ties. Then the cross boulevards are of a generally cir- 
cular arrangement, an outer one running along the wall, 
around the entire city, and thus every part within the 
wall is in direct communication with every other part. 

The plan of our national capital, a city which is gain- 
ing a wide reputation for town beauty, in many respects 
resembles that of Paris, and singularly enough the plan 
originated with a Frenchman, Major L'Enfant, of the 
French army, who assisted in Revolutionary times. 
General Washington approved of his plan and it was 
adopted, the wisdom of which course has since been fully 
confirmed, notwithstanding that for many years the plan 
of wide avenues, circles and squares was unappreciated. 
Because the City of Washington, thus in infancy, secured 
a plan of arrangement adapted to future growth, and 
then in time grew to fit it, she is destined to surpass 
many other cities in general attractiveness, because 
others, in time past, were never led into similar steps. 
In such facts as these may be found lessons well to be 
heeded by aspiring American towns at the present time. 

PARIS, PAST, PRESENT, AND FUTURE. 

So far as details are concerned, no doubt the plan of 
Paris would be susceptible of many improvements. It 
must be remembered, however, that this city, unlike our 
own cities, is one of great age, and that no farther back 
than the time of Napoleon III had but few attractions in 
the way of town gardens. The present admirable system 
of boulevards was secured only by piercing broad and 
clear through the solidly built and meanest parts of the 
old city, bringing in air, light, and trees, and working 
general improvement. 

"It is not many years," says M. Robert Mitchell, of 
Paris, in speaking of these improvements, "since the 



284 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

boundaries of Paris inclosed an old city that was a dis- 
grace to our civilization ; streets or rather fissures, with- 
out ventilation, and unhealthy districts where an entire 
population of poor people were languishing and dying. 
Now, however, thanks to the useful and important works 
that have lately been carried out, the sun shines every- 
where, streets have been enlarged, and every one has 
sufficient air to breathe. 

"Before the establishment of the Paris squares, the 
existence of a great number of children was passed in 
confined and unwholesome districts. The fresh air for 
them was only the threshold of a vitiated atmosphere. 
They were obliged to walk far before they could find a 
patch of vendure, or a bit of country. The children 
went out but little, it was thought useless to dress them 
or make them clean. How many times have we not 
noticed with painful emotions these little, ragged, pale 
creatures who never apparently thought of the filth in 
which they were obliged to live. 

"Now, thank God, this dark picture has become 
bright, within a couple of steps of even the poor man's 
house, there are trees, flowers, and gravel walks where 
the children can run about, and seats where their parents 
may sit together and talk." 

Great as has been the work of cutting the Paris boule- 
vards, the making of scores, perhaps hundreds of miles 
of others is yet contemplated. Possessed of such a spirit 
of improvement, the present beauty of this famous 
capital, by the help of the gardening and other arts, is 
easily accounted for. But Paris will go on increasing in 
attractiveness, and must continue for time indefinite to 
stand as a marked example of what may be done to make 
beautiful and healthful cities, even under circumstances 
that would appear on their face most adverse, and far 
more so than anything known in America. 

There is another aspect of the matter that ought to 



PUBLIC PAEKS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS. 285 

interest us. Strange as it may appear, it is a fact that 
these improvements in Paris, have not only been made 
without cost to the town, but even with a balance on the 
right side, the vastly increased value of the splendid new 
sites for business purposes in the improved parts, having 
thus far, more than repaid all the cost of the work. 

THE LESSON FOR AMERICAN ENTERPRISE. 

Why, with our wealth, intelligence, and foresight, we 
should not in hundreds of instances, acquire the Parisian 
spirit of town improvement is hard to see. If the means 
at command to do with, should measure attainable re- 
sults, it would not always be said that Paris is the most 
beautiful city on the face of the globe. Her example is 
now being followed in other French cities, such as Lyons 
and Eouen, and also elsewhere in Europe, but where can. 
we expect so much in this direction as in our own land, 
preeminently favored in innumerable respects ? 

With the majority of our towns, if a comprehensive, 
well devised plan, admitting of extension to any required 
degree would be adopted early, taking an example from 
Washington City in this respect, gains approximating in 
character to those acquired by Paris might soon be 
reached with a small corresponding outlay. True, the 
Paris boulevards, as stated, were made without direct 
pecuniary loss on account of the buildings that were de- 
stroyed, but where any town can, by judicious action, 
achieve equal results without making such a sacrifice of 
property, the gain must be greater yet. 

It is on precisely these grounds that growing American 
towns should meet the case. Much of the land needed 
for complete systems of boulevards, squares, and parks, 
could, in many towns, be secured at a low cost now, to be 
laid out and improved in final details as the place grows, 
so that in time advantages, proportionally equal if not 



286 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

superior to those of Paris would result. There are few 
places that could not undertake such improvements, in 
some effective degree, and carry them out successfully, 
without auy one greatly feeling the burden. To take a 
practical view of the matter, it may be seen that a town 
of one, ten, or a hundred thousand people, paying a 
special tax of but one dollar, for instance, per capita on 
an average, for initiating the work, and then afterwards 
say twenty to fifty cents annually for improving and 
keeping, would raise a sum of money, that with the help 
of good plans and prudent management, would accom- 
plish results that would soon be priceless, and of which all 
could reap the benefit. It will be no credit to American 
civilization if the opportunities of hundreds of towns 
now needing these improvements are allowed to pass un- 
improved, in this latter third of the ninteenth century, 
with all our wealth and established prosperity, and with 
such examples as we have in Paris and other cities before 
us — equivalent lessons of which Paris herself in her 
pioneer efforts had not the benefit. 

The radiating and cross principle of town boulevards, 
such as the French capital decided upon, should in some 
form and degree be considered most desirable for adop- 
tion by our growing cities. With some main avenues 
radiating from the center outwards, the system is 
adapted to a growth of any extent, allowing all parts to 
be readily reached from all others at any stage of growth. 
Besides the merit of convenience, a town which thus 
possesses the degree of irregularity that comes from such 
a system is beautiful in general appearance, for in cities 
as in architecture, the prevalence of too much regularity 
in the plan and general lines, is not conducive to the 
finest effects. Where it might be found necessary for 
carrying out such a system, to open highways through, 
any old thickly settled parts, it could often be done as 
advantageously as similar work in Paris has been done. 



PUBLIC PARKS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS. 287 

THE LARGE PARK SYSTEM. 

If there is one lesson more valuable than any other 
to be learned from the park system of Paris — and con' 
firmed by the experience of other cities also — it is that 
cities should depend upon boulevards, squares, circles, 
and moderate-sized parks for town gardens, rather than 
exclusively upon large, and, as they often prove to be r 
enormously expensive parks. The inborn American 
love for doing great things, may easily lead to the error 
of laying out large parks, when smaller ones would bet' 
ter serve the purpose. In many cases a small park of 
five, ten, or forty acres, well arranged and cared for, is 
capable of more fully serving every true want which calls 
for a town garden, than a large one of hundreds of acres. 

The desire for large parks for large cities need not be 
an unworthy one, but discrimination should be made 
between such as are largely made up of artificial decora' 
tive garden work, and very costly in construction and 
maintenance, and those of such a nature that a large 
degree of a natural kind of park attractions and benefits 
are secured for a comparatively small outlay. 

In the vicinity of almost every town there are sites not 
far distant, possessing natural beauty in landscape, wood, 
and water, well suited for a park, and which may be 
bought at a moderate cost. One or more new tracts of 
such land, of almost any extent, may be secured and con' 
verted into a park or system of parks, on some simple, 
well considered plan, having in view the presenting of 
nature in her most attractive moods. Such a park, 
if so managed as to leave it mainly in a wild state, 
both now and in the future, may be made most de- 
lightful as a ground for public recreation, either alone, 
or as a part of a system embracing some more highly 
improved gardens in the town.- The wet places must be 
drained, some graceful driveways with a natural appear- 



288 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

ance constructed, making them either of substantial mate- 
rial or depending in a measure on earth roads for summer 
driving, as is done in the Kichmond Park in the outskirts 
of London. Trees, shrubs, and plants, for desirable new 
groves, masses, and wilds, may be planted, shelters erect- 
ed, and other improvements introduced. Then under cer- 
tain mild regulations,allowing and providing for forest rov- 
ing, boating, carriage driving, horse-back riding over mead- 
ow and hill, and other privileges of great freedom, such a 
semi-natural park might be rendered immeasurably valu- 
able as public recreation grounds. By introducing herds 
of cattle, sheep, or deer, restrained by hurdles to keep 
down the grass of meadows, a desirable attraction would 
be gained, and at the same time the expense of mowing 
such portions of the park be obviated. 

A park or parks of such character, not so far off but 
that they might be reached by carriages, street cars, or 
the railroad, and then several small, well kept parks and 
boulevards, in and near the town, to provide garden 
beauty, fresh air, and comfort, near the center of popu- 
lation, to benefit every body every day, it is believed may 
together afford the elements of a complete public garden 
system, more fully for a certain expenditure than in any 
other way. 

GARDEN BOULEVARDS. 

The idea of the Paris boulevards one hundred to two 
hundred feet wide, has been for sometime adopted on a 
small scale by a number of our cities. A common 
width of these is one hundred and seventy-five feet, 
and arranged with a wide center space, supporting 
four rows of trees, or irregular arrangements of trees, 
shrubs, and plants, with walks, settees, fountains, etc., 
and on each side a driveway and a side walk, next to the 
private property. Narrower boulevards are planted with 
two rows of trees in the middle, and a row at each side, 



PUBLIC PARKS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS. 289 

while still wider ones sometimes have a middle and two 
side driveways, with trees on the plats between. Such 
boulevards, or park- ways as they are also called, deserve to 
be far more widely introduced, as means of augmenting 
town beauty, and creating air spaces, where pure breezes 
may have some vantage ground in cities. 

But there is an enlarged form of boulevard that is enti- 
tled to consideration in American town gardening, where- 
ever something more stately and complete is desired. I 
refer to the Grand Garden Boulevard, about four hun- 
dred feet wide, and of which in Paris there are several 
illustrations. One of these might even be introduced as 
a substitute for a city park ; possessing all of its advan- 
tages, and a number in addition, with but few of its 
disadvantages. 

In such a grand boulevard, three hundred and fifty feet 
or more wide, a breadth and length of base is secured, 
that affords a chance for various garden effects impos- 
sible in a narrower area. Long, ample, and, if desired, 
winding drives, approximating closely to those of a large 
park, are attainable, while the liberal width allows of a 
free arrangement of walks, bridle paths, groups of trees, 
shrubs, and flowers, and open areas of lawn. Even lake- 
lets, rockwork, arbors, etc., in varied extent, may be in- 
troduced with little loss of fine effects, as compared with 
large parks. 

Figure 114 illustrates a garden boulevard, four hundred 
and thirty feet wide, with great and small circles, and 
narrow boulevards and streets, that open into it of two 
hundred, one hundred and fifty, and one hundred feet in 
width. The plan shows two styles of laying out : the 
lower part in the park, and the upper in the avenue style. 
But in both, the natural style of arrangement mostly 
prevails. In addition to the main garden drives, there 
are walk-bordered roadways for traffic along each side, 
and into which private walks and drives open. 
13 



290 



ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 




Fig. 114. — GARDEN BOULEVARD 



Such an avenue gar- 
den, in good shape, ex- 
j ^S tending either as a main 
| /^223 feature of a system of 
'jl boulevards and parks or 
^v not, for one or any num- 
* ^, ber of miles through a 
town, with wide circles 
at central points, sup- 
porting town balls, art 
galleries, museums, con- 
servatories, or other edi- 
fices, and small circles 
at junctionswith streets, 
containing monuments, 
statuary, or fountains, 
present an array of fine 
qualities difficult to 
equal. Add to this the 
area that on each side 
throughout the length, 
is embraced by private 
grounds, with residences 
setting back, let us sup- 
pose, at an average dis- 
tance of about thirty 
feet, and altogether a 
garden is presented in 
effect, about five hun- 
dred feet Avide, from 
house to house, and 
stretching "far away, 
which for grandeur, 
richness, variety, and 
li ealthf ulness, stands un- 
equalled by any other 
kind of town garden. 



PUBLIC PAKKS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS. 291 

The roomy circles shown in the plan are features of 
this system that must not be underrated. Any structures 
of pleasing proportions built on these, will show to the 
best possible architectural advantage, and the value of 
any such in contributing to the effective appearance of a 
town, is virtually multiplied by the number of streets 
centering here — opening up vistas through which they 
are seen from a distance. Let us imagine the effect on a 
town of having its imposing edifices located on great cir- 
cles, like the one shown at the top of figure 114, into 
which, in this case, twelve streets and avenues open from 
different directions. The beauty of a structure placed 
here would benefit a large part of the town, because 
in effect, belonging as an objective point to each street 
diverging from it. Yet we constantly build towns in 
such a way that much of our attractive architecture is 
buried between masses of buildings and is only to be seen 
when it is reached. The secret of the magnificence of 
cities like Paris, Edinburgh, and Washington, is largely 
found in such an arrangement of streets, edifices, and 
gardens, that they all contribute their full worth to- 
wards producing a grand, harmonious effect, with many 
of the avenues leading towards imposing structures, which 
then are seen through vistas of tree and garden beauty, 
that afford refreshing relief to the architecture. 

It is for growing towns to note, that the city which 
succeeds by proper plans to so dispose of leading streets, 
public edifices, town gardens and parks, that each is 
used to the best advantage, is the one that'secures the 
greatest amount of town attractiveness, and with the 
least expenditure of material and money. 

Not least among the advantages of garden boulevards, 
is economy in the area employed, in proportion to the ef- 
fects gained. A smaller number of acres is required for 
a given length of these than might be supposed. One 
four hundred and thirty feet wide, would require to the 



292 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING, 

mile, about forty acres of land, not counting the two 
side roads, which are required as highways in any case. 
How could a better use for say one hundred and twenty 
acres be imagined as a large town garden, than in one 
such a broad garden boulevard, with all its varied 
beauty and numerous circles, supporting attractive archi- 
tecture, stretching away for three continuous miles? 

A GLANCE AT CENTRAL PARK, NEW YORK. 

It may be interesting to note here that out of seven 
hundred and fifty acres — the area embraced by the well 
known Central Park of New York, there could have been 
made boulevards of the great length of six miles, and 
four hundred and thirty feet wide (not counting side 
drives), and fourteen miles of boulevards, from one hun- 
dred and twenty-five to two hundred feet wide, besides 
six parks of from fifteen to forty acres each, and still 
have fifty acres for large circles, and leaving sixty acres 
for the purpose of securing a large, natural park at some 
distance away. 

If the equivalent of Central Park area had been 
managed on a plan something as shown by figure 115, af- 
fording superior sites for museums, fountains, statuary, 
etc., and also for other town buildings, that are mostly 
now hidden away, can it be doubted that far better ef- 
fects would have been secured for the beauty of the city, 
and adding in many ways to its desirability as a place of 
residence, than has been wrought by the present system? 

In considering the subject of Public Gardens generally, 
one may be pardoned for questioning, as they see the 
state of neglect and decay so conspicuous in late years in 
this noted garden, what its future is to be, and what its 
influence upon the development of upper New York. 

If the blame for this is laid to corruption in the man- 
agement, more than to the circumstances of its make up, 



PUBLIC PARKS AKD PLEASURE GROUHDS. 



293 



size and location, it may be said that as the complete boul- 
evard and small park system afford in great measure a reme- 
dy against the defects of the 
latter nature, so the same 
system affords certain safe- 
guards against extreme mis- 
management not possessed 
by large parks. The garden 
avenues extending a great 
length through a town, are 
in all their details brought 
face to face with a large 
body of taxpayers, and mis- 
management is exposed and 
becomes intolerable. At 
best but a small portion of 
all the people of a town 
can visit the large parks 
often, hence wholesale mis- 
management f requ ently goes 
on without detection or 
check for a long time. And 
it is significant that if parks 
once happen to fall into a 
state of neglect and decay, 
they are liable to be shun- 
ned even by many of the 
otherwise regular visitors. 
A lesson may be taken also 
from the unpleasant reputa- 
tion which to some extent 
is associated with Central 
Park as a resort of the vici- 
ous classes, against con- Fi £- n 5.— central park as it 

, , . , , MIGHT HAVE BEEN. 

structmg any large parks, 

abounding in much close wood near the present or future 




294 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

centers of large towns. It is a question whether this is 
not a state of things hard to disassociate from such a 
combination of circumstances in any place. In propor- 
tion as any system of centrally located town gardens can 
dispense with* all woody solitudes (for such the clumps of 
woods become after nightfall), and instead have much 
openness, with small clumps of trees and shrubs, this 
serious fault is lessened. One great recommendation for 
boulevards and small parks, in the midst of cities, is, that 
from their comparative narrowness and openness, they 
offer few special attractions to the viciously inclined. 

Turning from all that has been done in Paris in im- 
proving the city, by opening up the boulevard and small 
park system, there would be nothing wild in the idea of 
adopting in New York now, a system of parks and boule- 
vards, something as shown in figure 115, and just sug- 
gested, dispensing entirely with Central Park as it now is. 
Such a move in New York would no doubt be attended, 
as something similar in Paris has been, by many 
important advantages, not excepting that of profit 
from a financial point of view. The present marvel- 
lously attractive Pare Monceau, of Paris, was formerly 
much larger than it now is, but the improvers of the city 
saw the policy of cutting it down, and along with other 
improvements, reduced it to less than half its former size, 
selling the cut off portions for residences at enormous rates. 
By a similar course with the larger New York Park, 
the city would gain directly in two ways, first by getting 
rid of a park that in more than one respect is too large, 
considering its location, and instead, drawing it out, so to 
speak, in order that it may contribute beauty, healthful- 
ness, and convenience to many parts now deprived of them. 

SMALL TOWN PARKS. 

These, if well arranged, may be made to afford a good 
and varied show of park-like features, in a compass so 



PUBLIC PARKS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS. 295 

limited, that in large towns the land may be secured at 
points that are readily accessible by the masses, while 




Fig. 116.— PLAN OF A TEN-ACRE PARK. 
A^. Main Grass Plat ; B, Lakelet; G, Rill, I ed by Spring from Eockwork at D ; E, Bridge; 
F, Arbor ; (?, Drives; S, Concourse; J, Walks enlarged in Shady Places ; J, Urinal. 

small towns and villages that could, not afford extended 
garden systems, may have one or more parks of this kind. 



296 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

Undoubtedly many small cities and towns are to-day 
debarred from having a park, from the false notion that 
one such, to be worthy of the name, must be large, or at 
any rate very expensive. Such is not, however, the case. 
Figure 116 is a plan of a ten-acre park, showing how 
much of garden and landscape attractiveness even a small 
area like this may be made to yield. Here are some 
hundreds of trees and flowering shrubs ; open areas of 
lawn, the largest one about two acres in size, lakelet, 
rill, spring (natural or artificial), mound, rockery, 
bridges, arbors, flowers, ample walks, play grounds, etc., 
all disposed in a simple and largely natural style, and for 
showing boldness of character throughout. A short 
drive is also introduced. In parks of fifteen, twenty-five, 
or more acres, these may be brought in more freely, and 
there is greater latitude for creating fine garden effects. 

A glance at the map of Paris, figure 113, shows a wise 
distribution of small parks through a large city. In 
that city about two hundred acres, divided into a dozen 
parks of from three to forty acres each, are thus employ- 
ed. These exquisite gardens are productive of an im- 
mense amount of comfort, pleasure, and healthfulness to 
the Parisians, and undoubtedly far more so, than if all 
were instead included in a single large town park. 

It is a great recommendation for small town parks, 
that in our hot, dry summers, they could in many places 
be kept watered, with the effect of constantly having 
fresh, green lawns and foliage, a thing proportionally 
more difficult as a park is larger. In fact it is just at 
this season, when of all others we most enjoy cool, green 
lawns, that the large parks are so parched up as to be 
quite disagreeable. 

Where Botanical, Zoological, or other collections are to 
be secured, small sized parks, if not too small, are well 
adapted to accommodating them. 



PUBLIC PARKS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS. 



297 



TOWN" SQUARES. 

No parts of a town have greater need of garden spots, 
than those that are thickly settled. Often there is a 
square of one or several acres, or one could be made in 
places not admitting a larger square. But such plats are 
susceptible of being rendered much more attractive than 
they usually are. They should neither be exclusively 
devoted to trees for shade, nor be barren of them. A 
mean between the two, providing for an abundance of 
air, breeze, and sunshine, by keeping them well open in 
parts, and then grass, masses of trees and shrubs, flowers 
and walks tastefully arranged here and there should be 
secured. 

Figures 117 and 118 represent two small squares, laid 
out on simple geometrical plans. The first has a grassy 





Pig. 117. 



Fig. 118. 



DESIGNS FOR SMALL TOWN SQUARES. 

center, with a continuous flower-bed next to the walk, 
save a narrow strip of grass between. Seats may be 
placed in the depressions shown in the walks on four 
sides. The woody growths may be both shrubs and 
trees, arranged in masses as shown in the plan. Figure 
118 has a square gravelled surface in the center, upon 
which is located a drinking fountain, piece of statuary, 
or candelabrum. 

As a rule, the more simple a plan of this kind is, the 



298 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

better. Sometimes, owing to strong architectural in- 
fluences, the introduction of terraces, elaborate flower- 
beds, and other similar features is proper in squares. 
But even then the plan should be essentially simple as a 
whole. 

To have a small square, or park of any size, in fine con- 
dition in thickly settled parts, and abounding in refresh- 
ing natural attractions, it must above all else be properly 
protected by a fence with gates, after the universal Euro- 
pean fashion. This is absolutely necessary for keeping out 
that greatest of all enemies to low flowers, shrubs, and 
evergreens, dogs. These enjoy running and playing in 
such places, and by their lawless, and worst of all, filthy 
habits, in time kill every fine shrub or plant. But fences 
may be made inconspicuous, and not more than three or 
four feet high, if built of pointed pickets. A single 
width of coarse wire netting, with meshes two or three 
inches wide, fixed against the fence next to the ground, 
will keep out all small animals, and besides protect the 
place from paper and litter that are swept along the 
streets by the wind. Then the admission of dogs at the 
gates should be strictly prohibited, unless they are led 
by a cord or chain. 

PLANTING PUBLIC HIGHWAYS. 

All over this land, both in city and country, there is 
an inexcusable lack of shade and ornamental trees at the 
road sides. Foreigners wonder at this, as they find here 
a land rich in fine native trees, and an apparent lack of 
appreciation of their value. Throughout Europe the 
country roads are very commonly, and often for many 
miles in a stretch, made beautiful and comfortable by the 
use of trees. 

If a persistent effort were made at once to plant trees 
along the highways, and to care for them, the next fifty, 



PUBLIC PARKS AND PLEASURE GROUNDS. 299 

or even ten years, would mark a greater change for the 
better in the general appearance of our rural districts, 
then has taken place since the lands were cleared. Such 
an improvement would tend to greatly increase the values 
of lands, and besides, who can measure the increase of 
comfort to be gained for every living thing ; in summer 
by abundant shade ; in winter by breaking the force of 
piercing winds, not to speak of advantages as effecting 
rainfalls and drouths. 

In some of the States of late, laws have been made to 
encourage tree planting, by paying a bounty from the 
State treasury, to those who plant and protect trees. In 
Connecticut an act provides, that any person planting 
and protecting forest trees for one-quarter of a mile or 
more along any public highway, may receive, for ten 
years, one dollar per annum for each quarter of a mile so 
planted. In some instances, public spirited individuals 
have offered prizes of forty, twenty-five, twenty, and 
fifteen dollars for the best and largest rows of trees along 
any public road of a town, the award to be made by 
three non-resident experts. It is shown that bounties 
and prizes thus offered stimulate a great interest in the 
work of planting trees on public roads. 

In planting street trees, the common arrangement in 
rows with the trees at equal distances apart, is not the 
only one, or perhaps not always the best. Too much of such 
planting tends to monotony. The rows should be broken 
now and then, by setting the trees more irregularly, 
placing some close together on both sides of the walk to 
form clumps, and then leaving open spaces elsewhere. 
In figure 107, and also in the lower half of figure 114, 
this idea is illustrated. Monotony may be further broken 
by introducing different kinds of trees, keeping each 
somewhat by itself. 

A common fault in this work is, to plant so close that 
the trees have no chance to develop their beauty. This 



300 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

often comes from a desire to have a plenty of shade at 
once. The better way is to plant some trees to be per- 
manent, say at thirty- five or forty feet apart for Elms, and 
twenty-five for other kinds of forest trees, and then to 
set rapid-growing kinds, like the Poplars, Silver Maple, 
Ailanthus, Catalpa, and European Alder, between these, 
to be removed when the better kinds need the space. If 
but two trees are needed in front of any premises, plant 
three, the middle one a fast grower, to be removed before 
many years. 

RURAL IMPROVEMENT ASSOCIATIONS. 

The movements on foot in some places for establishing 
these associations, and having in view as a chief object 
the beautifying of towns and villages, by planting trees, 
improving roadsides, and town gardens, is a most worthy 
one, and their universal introduction would soon work 
great changes in the appearance of towns and villages. 
Through the kindness of the Hon. B. F. Northrop, of 
Clinton, Conn.; who has been prominent in establishing 
these associations, I am able to present the following plan, 
which was adopted by the village in which he lives. 

CLINTON RURAL IMPROVEMENT ASSOCIATION. 

1. This Association shall be called " The Rural Improvement 
Association of Clinton." 

2. The object of this Association shall be to cultivate public 
spirit, quicken the social and intellectual life of the people, 
promote good fellowship, and secure public health by better 
hygienic conditions in our homes and surroundings, improve 
our streets, roads, public grounds, side-walks, and in general to 
build up and beautify the whole town, and thus enhance the 
value of its real estate and render Clinton a still more inviting 
place of residence. 

3. The officers of this Association shall consist of a President, 
a Vice-President, a Treasurer, a Secretary, and an Executive 
Committee of fifteen, six of whom shall be ladies. 

4. It shall be the duty of the Executive Committee to make 



GARDEN CEMETERIES. 301 

all contracts, employ all laborers, expend all moneys, and 
superintend all improvements made by the Association. They 
shall hold meetings monthly from April to October in each 
year, and as much of tener as they may deem expedient. 

5. Every person, who shall plant three trees by the road side, 
under the direction of the Executive Committee, or pay three 
dollars in one year, or one dollar annually, and obligate himself 
or herself to pay the same annually for three years, shall be a 
member of this Association. 

6. The payment of ten dollars annually for three years, or of 
twenty-five dollars in one sum, shall constitute one a life- 
member of this Association. 

7. Five members of the Executive Committee present at any 
meeting shall constitute a quorum. 

8. No debt shall be contracted by the Executive Committee 
beyond the amount of available means within their control, 
and no member of the Association shall be liable for any debt 
of the Association, beyond the amount of his or her subscription. 

9. The Executive Committee shall call an annual meeting, 
giving due notice of the same, for the election of officers of this 
Association, and at said meeting, shall make a detailed report 
of all moneys received and expended during the year, the 
number of trees planted under their direction, and the number 
planted by individuals, length of side-walks made or repaired, 
and the doings of the Committee in general. 

10. This constitution may be amended at any annual meeting 
by a two-thirds vote of the members present and voting. 



CHAPTER XXVIII. 

GARDEN" CEMETERIES. 

So excellent in almost every respect are many of the 
large garden cemeteries of our country, that all that may 
be said in praise of them — and much praise is thus be- 
stowed both at home and by foreigners — is usually well 
merited. But what on the other baud can be said of the 
strongly contrasted condition of thousands of small, old- 



303 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

fashioned grave-yards, which we all have met throughout 
the land, in a terribly neglected condition, overgrown 
with weeds, rank grass, and tangled brush. The only 
way in which the condition of these can be reconciled, is 
to look upon them as relics of a pioneer period. They 
are like the "log-huts" of past generations, old and. 
faulty, but endeared to us by the ties that bind the de- 
parted dead to the living. Everywhere in the older sec- 
tions of the country, log-houses and barns have given 
place to tasteful and often costly buildings, representatives 
of the increased prosperity of the community, but many 
times in the same community the burial place is still in 
the "log-hut" style. 

If the people were satisfied to have them thus, no 
words of condemnation of such grounds — suggestive of 
cold and selfish forgetfulness — would be too strong. But 
believing that the dissatisfaction with these is wide- 
spread, and that the present condition is due more to not 
knowing what to do, than to a disposition against doing, 
we may feel hopeful of better things in time to come. 

Indeed, we think there is enough love for the beautiful, 
enough wealth and enterprise, and enough respect for the 
dead in every section of country, to make and keep the 
burial places nearly or quite as well as those of the large 
cities to-day are kept. These grounds are usually of a 
few acres, but the joint property of hundreds of able per- 
sons, and actually representatives in every community of 
large sums of money. The arguments that force them- 
selves upon every one's good sense, in favor of having 
these small areas in good and even beautiful shape, out 
of respect for their hallowed use, ought to be overpower- 
ing in aid of any movement in the direction of their im- 
provement, and in every neighborhood there ought to be 
the persons ready to lead in and encourage the work. 

That which contributes most largely to the beauty of 
the improved city cemeteries, are the garden features in- 



GARDEN CEMETERIES. 303 

troduced. How appropriate in this country of cheap 
land is the idea to have all burial places, fair-sized, 
roomy, landscape gardens, varied with wood, groves, 
and 'single trees, lawns and flowers, arranged in good 
taste, with simple memorials to indicate the places of 
interment. 

The key to the superior appearance of oiu* leading 
cemeteries, is the fact that the prices at which all lots 
are sold, are fixed with a view to the expense of per- 
petually keeping the cemetery in order. This must be 
looked upon as one of the most important points con- 
nected with improved cemetery management. To the ob- 
servance, or non-observance of this is due the vast differ- 
ence between the best and the poorest of our rural ceme- 
teries. 

As the incidental expenses of keeping up any cemetery 
lot by sodding, mowing, etc., are very light, when many 
are taken care of together, only a small increase in the 
prices of lots is required to form a general fund, the in- 
terest of which provides perpetually for their care. In 
the beautiful Forest Lawn Cemetery, of Buffalo, con- 
taining two hundred and thirty acres, the price of lots is 
fixed at fifty cents per square foot, while in the new 
Buffalo City Cemetery, a few miles further from the city, 
the price is but twenty-five cents per square foot. These 
prices apply to all parts of the cemeteries, but then some 
sections accommodate lots of only one size, and others 
allow of lots of other sizes. Of course where land is 
cheap, the price can be kept at even lower figures than 
either of those named. 

How is the work of cemetery improvement in any case 
to be inaugurated and carried out ? First, let persons 
of public spirit carefully look over the matter, determin- 
ing what improvements are desirable, as to size of 
grounds, and whether it is better to change the old or to 
start an entirely new cemetery. If an old association 



304 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

exists, that can be strengthened fur carrying out the new 
purpose, let it he done and put to work, if not, then a 
new organization should be formed. 

As to cemetery officers, fhere should be a Boar,d of 
Trustees, composed of from five to twelve men, to be 
chosen by the lot holders. The election should be yearly, 
and the term of office not less than three years, with an 
arrangement by which one or two trustees go out each 




Fig. 119.— A GARDEN CEMETERY OF FIVE ACRES. 

year, and the same number of new or re-elected ones 
come in. All affairs of the Association and the property, 
should be managed by this Board, the members acting 
without compensation. In addition to the trustees, a 
secretary and treasurer should be appointed by the Board. 
Reports should be required annually from the officers by 
the lot-holders. There are laws in the different States 



GARDEN CEMETERIES. 



305 



bearing upon cemeteries, and these should be procured 
to aid, where necessary, in perfecting the organization. 

As regards the location of the improved cemetery, if 
lands can be procured for enlargement of the old grave- 
yard, lying directly adjacent, there are obvious reasons 
why this should be done, making such alterations as to 
adapt it to the new plan. If this cannot be done, some 
advantages might be found in starting a new cemetery, 
but this would in part, at least, be offset by the trouble 
incident to keeping up the old one and making removals. 

The size and plan of the cemetery, are matters so inti- 
mately associated with the needs of respective communi- 
ties, and with the style of arrangement, that anything said 




Fig. 120.— A GARDEN CEMETERY OP THREE ACRES. 

on this point must be general. There are several things 
that should have weight in deciding as to size of the 
grounds, such as the probable wants of the future, taking 
growth of population into consideration. A scant area 
limits the possibilities of the gardener in producing broad, 
pleasing effects. On the other band, the larger the area, 
the more expensive will it be to keep up. It would in 
every instance be the best and cheapest — considering the 
permanent nature of such work, and the desirability of 
doing well what is done at all, for the Board to secure the 
services of a skillful landscape architect to help decide these 



306 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

points, as well as to prepare a plan of the grounds, select 
and mark out the arrangement of the trees and shrubs, 
and other matters. Under any circumstances there 
should be a definite plan devised for guiding operations, 
and the arrangement from the start should be so complete 
as not to require, in a great many years, any important 
changes. 

The grounds of the cemetery should be divided and 
sub-divided into sections and plats, with such aven- 
ues and walks as may be deemed necessary. A map 
should be kept where it can be readily inspected. 

The lots should be of various sizes, generally with those 
of the same size together. They may vary from the size 

C 3 (^v^^o CT, 



ir 



o -g o a — -a a 

I hi ii 

' M I M 

o. 6 i o- i 6 — 

..-o.--.--a or-— -a------ p «?— — 

iD®Di D l I 



iODD 



00 1 



.q o- 6 d a— — 

— -a a 1> 9 o 7- Q <? 

Fig. 121. — PLAN FOR DIVIDING CEMETERY GROUNDS. 

of single graves to several thousand square feet each, the 
more desirable sections usually being laid out in largest 
lots. Dispensing with gravel or other walks throughout 
the cemetery, having in their stead, grass walks only, ex- 
cepting some main walks and drives, is much preferable to 
cutting up the ground with the former. By this means 
there is a saving of expense in first construction ; the 
after care of the place is easier, and such a plan tends to 
increase the garden effect. Figure 121 shows one of the 
best plans for dividing cemetery lawns into lots and grass 
walks. Tlje boundaries are marked by small stone, metal, 



GARDEN CEMETERIES. 307 

or oaken slabs, so sunk down with the tops even with 
the ground, that the mower can pass over them. This 
plan is drawn to a scale of four feet to one-fourth of an 
inch. 

No fences, rails, or walls, are now allowed around indi- 
vidual lots in the best cemeteries. In case anything of 
this kind is needed, it should be a low, stone coping or a 
low evergreen hedge. 

The planting of trees, shrubs and flowers in cemeteries 
should only be allowed under the direction of an intelli- 
gent superintendent ; the injudicious bringing in of what 
were intended as adornments, has spoiled the beauty 
of many a cemetery. Flowers, as a rule, should be 
arranged either in beds along the drives and walks, or 
else on plats not used for burials. 

The plan of regulating somewhat the size and form of 
tombstones, by keeping them within certain limits, is a 
good one, for the wide variations that often prevail in 
these, is not conducive to good effects. 

Eules and regulations to be observed by lot-holders and 
visitors, should be posted up in one or more conspicuous 
places. These may apply to the admission of non-lot- 
holders ; prohibition of fast driving, driving on the 
grass, leaving horses unattended or unfastened, the pick- 
ing or injuring of flowers, shrubs, and trees, the feeding 
• or disturbing of water fowls or birds, forbidding children 
to come in unattended, or persons with refreshments, 
fire-arms, or dogs, or omnibuses, equestrians, etc. 



PART IV. 

CONSTRUCTING GARDENS. 

CHAPTER XXIX. 
PLANNING GARDEN IMPROVEMENTS. 

No one who plants ornamental trees and shrubs, or 
otherwise permanently improves his land, can forsee how 
far the results of his work will live into the future. 
This thought suggests the importance of doing well 
whatever is done, as it is done but once for an indefinite 
time. In building our houses, the appearance of the 
finished structure is thoroughly studied from plans be- 
fore construction ; we should act as wisely with the gar- 
den improvements, which endure quite as long. Trees 
and shrubs look small at the start ; they will not be so 
always, and after developing into conspicuous objects, we 
can scarcely count on replacing or moving them, if badly 
located at first. Obviously the proper time to avoid bad 
garden effects is before the work is begun. 

This can be done by the help of good plans, prepared 
beforehand, in ample time to guide every operation in 
garden making. It is better to have such plans, even if 
procured at some cost of time and money, and if they 
show nothing more than the locating of the principal ob- 
jects, than to start work with no plan, or a poor one, 
and to regret the results for years long to come. 

Where one prefers to make his own plans for garden 
improvements, the way to proceed is, to prepare a ma]) of 
the place as it now is, drawing it to some scale, such as 
(308) 



PLANNING GARDEN IMPROVEMENTS. 309 

sixteen or thirty-two feet to the inch. Upon this all the 
existing objects, such as buildings, entrances, trees, etc., 
should be located, giving each its exact position. Then 
with a pencil, the planning of improvements may be 
done, making and erasing as necessary, until something 
satisfactory is reached. Every object intended to be 
brought in should be given its proper size according to 
the scale. As the work progresses, the plan should 
often be viewed from various directions, by holding the 
upper surface of the paper nearly in line with the eye. 
This will better show how it will appear on the grounds 
when finished, than if looked at obliquely from above, 
because naturally we view our gardens not as if we were 
in a balloon, but with the eye, nearly on their own level. 
Sufficient time ought to be given to this work, so that all 
features may be deliberately studied in their relation to 
the whole. Eemember, it is always a serious matter to 
make blunders in planning a garden, for when the work 
is once executed, and the trees are growing, they will 
stand as monuments — who can tell how long — pointing 
either to wise or unwise decisions on the part of the one 
who made the plan. 

To secure the best results, with the fewest chances 
of failure, the services of a skilled landscape architect 
should by all means be employed. A matter of such far 
reaching importance should be entrusted only to a 
thoroughly competent person. There is no better field 
for ignoramuses and outright imposters, than that of 
gardening, because results are often years in developing, 
giving the imposters time enough to depart before their 
incompetency is discovered. As a rule, if a person can- 
not draw a plan that is graceful and pleasing to the eye, 
he is not to be trusted to plan the garden itself. This 
test, while generally reliable, is not always so, for a grand 
plan, in addition to appearing smooth and graceful on 
paper, must fit the place upon which it is to be 



310 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

employed. A knowledge of materials is quite indis- 
pensable on the part of the architect. He should be 
familiar with the natures and merits of all the plants he 
sets out ; the proper selections to make, and the soils aud 
exposures most suitable for each ; the effects of sunshine, 
shade, moisture, dryness, upon them, the sizes and forms 
they attain at maturity, the shades of foliage, colors of 
flowers, and a multitude of other things in order to pro- 
duce lasting good effects. 



CHAPTER XXX. 
LAYING OUT THE GROUNDS. 

From the time the first spade is struck, until the 
garden is completed, there will be frequent need of con- 
sulting the plan for guidance. It must be early 
determined where excavations for walks, foundations, 
etc., are to come, that the material from these can be 
utilized in rough shaping. The soil of borders for trees 
and shrubs, as well as of flower beds, ferneries, etc., will 
probably need special preparation, and that is often best 
made while the rough work is in progress. Any rockeries, 
terraces, lakes, etc., to be introduced, must be located 
early. 

All improvements and objects being in place on the 
map, their exact location on the grounds should be 
determined with the measuring tape and marked with 
stakes. Usually, in laying out, a place must be gone over 
a number of times in parts, because stakes get disturbed 
or covered up, and the surface keeps varying more or 
less during construction. 

While most points are readily located by measurement, 
this is more difficult in the case of walks and other curves, 



LAYING OUT THE GROUNDS. 



311 



except as regards "their starting places and general 
position. In getting the curves, the practised gardener 
trusts much to his eye, but a person of no experience 
finds this is not easy. A rope can be used for such pur- 
poses to good advantage, by fastening one end at some 




CURVE BOD. 



definite point along the line, and then drawing on it, in 
a way to produce the desired sweep, defining it after- 
wards with stakes. 

The curve-rod shown in figure 122 is a useful implement 
in this work. It consists of a six-foot rod with a wire hook 
on one end, a, and a cross piece with holes in it at the 
other, c, with a notch at the center, b. To use it, we 
start with a stake at the hook at a, and one in the notch 
at b, a third one is then put through one of the holes of 
the cross piece, say the outer one for instance. Then 
the rod is lifted leaving the 
stakes to stand, and is moved 
forward into position, b, d, set- 
ting a fourth stake at d. After 
this we bring into position, c, e, 
with a stake at e, and so on. 
Such a course then leaves the 
stakes on a good curve. By 
using the one or the other end 
of the cross-piece the curve 
may be turned to the right or the left, or it may be 
lengthened by inserting stakes in nearer the center. 

A simple method of laying out an oval on the ground 
is shown in figure 123. Two stakes are set, say at six, 
ten, or any number of feet apart — this being governed 




Fig. 123. — FORMING AN OVAL. 



312 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

by the required size — around these a stout cord is placed 
of such a length, that when the ends are tied, a loop will 
be formed about one-fourth longer than the distance he- 
tween the stakes. By placing a marking stake in the 
end of the loop drawn taut, it will, with moving it around 
— being guided by the loop, as shown in the engraving — 
form a perfect ellipse on the ground. A little experi- 
menting will enable one to construct a wider or narrower, 
larger or smaller oval. 

All small circles, squares, triangles, and so forth, are 
readily laid out with the use of line, tape measure, or 
ten-foot pole and stakes. 



CHAPTER XXXI. 
THE WORK ON THE GROUNDS. 

After a first layiug out of the grounds, operations may 
commence, by passing over and roughly shaping them, 
excavating, filling in, etc., as alluded to in the last chap- 
ter. 

Whatever alterations are made in the surface, it should 
be laid down, as a rule never to be disregarded, that as fin- 
ished, at least six inches of good loamy soil— and as much 
more as possible — should overlay every part of the place 
that is to be planted or made into lawn. Wherever con- 
siderable cutting down is necessary, the good surface sod 
should first be stripped from such parts, and placed at one 
side, and after moving enough subsoil to effect the needed 
reduction, return the top soil again. In mound-making, 
instead of heaping up earth on the natural top soil, this 
should first be stripped, and then the body of the mound 
be made of subsoil, afterwards replacing the surface soil 
on the top. 



THE WORK OX THE GROUNDS. 313 

Another way of doing such work, is to do it along 
with the operation of trenching (described in connection 
with figure 124). As each section of surface soil is thrown 
oyer, laying bare the subsoil, add to or take from the 
latter enough material to effect the desired grade, after- 
wards replacing the top layer. 

Where the walks, drives, foundation walls, fountains, 
etc., come, some earth will need excavating, and this 
may be used in general shaping. The good surface soil 
from such places should be kept separate and prized for 
use. By opening up for walks and drives at this stage, 
a convenient place is found for depositing any stones 
that turn up. If there are many of these, often the best 
and cheapest way to get rid of them, is by excavating 
deeply for walks and drives, and filling them in there; 
they will thus serve both as foundation and for drainage. 

The best season for rough levelling, draining, and 
other coarse operations, is late summer or fall. The 
earth is then likely to be dry — a great point in economi- 
cal moving — and no injury can possibly arise from the 
trampling of teams and packing of the soil by wheeling. 
Then, also, the earth has a chance to settle well by 
spring, so that the work of planting and lawn making 
may be commenced early, which is a great "advantage. 
In filling in, ample allowance must be made for settling, 
by leaving the ground in its loose state, somewhat higher 
in deep places than in others. In case filling in must 
be done in the spring, to be followed soon by finishing 
the improvements, the materials need to be firmly com- 
pacted by beating or rolling to prevent settling out of 
shape. 

DRAINAGE. 

The thorough drainage of the soil is important in the 
pleasure ground. Few plants will succeed in cold, damp, 
undrained soil, and little comfort or satisfaction can be 
14 



314 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

had from a garden in this condition. Warmth and air 
at the roots are essential for their growth, and these can 
never be well secured in undrained, wet soil. 

In the work of draining, usually common drain tiles, 
or pipes, are laid in lines twenty to forty feet apart, 
and three or four feet deep for loamy soils, and 
fifteen feet and upwards apart, and about three 
feet deep for heavy soils. Land naturally open and 
dry may not require draining. The best style and size 
of tile is the round, with collars, and these may be from 
one and one half to two inches inside diameter for com- 
mon tiles, with the cross mains two to four inches. 
The smaller the tiles, if they answer their purpose, the 
less liable are they to become obstructed, because the 
flow is more concentrated. The tiles should be so hard 
burned that they will give a clear ring when struck, but 
not over burned. It will pay to carefully examine the 
tiles and accept only such as come up to this standard, 
for soft tiles are not durable, while those that are hard 
burned, warped, or melted, make defective drains. Like 
a chain, the effectiveness of a drain is only measured by 
its poorest parts. 

Drains may also be may of rubble stone or broken 
rocks, two or three inches in diameter, placed to a depth 
of fifteen inches in the bottom of a trench? Wooden 
drains, made of ordinary rough boards, cut into strips 
four inches wide and nailed together, by using three 
pieces, into a triangular box or pipe, breaking the joints. 
These drains, which answer very well for small jobs, 
should be laid with a point downward like the letter V. 

The bottoms of drains must be even, and have suf- 
ficent fall throughout their length to make a ready flow 
towards the outlet. Generally the sewers from the 
buildings may be made a part of the sewage system of 
the garden, in which to lead the water. 



THE WORK ON THE GROUNDS. 315 

PREPARING THE SOIL. 

To secure a satisfactory growth of all trees, shrubs, 
flowers, and grass in the garden, the soil must be rich and 
deeply worked. That attempts at gardening may prove 
failures from other causes is possible, but lack of atten- 
tion to these points is the most common reason why 
many places never look well — all the trees and plants 
having an unthrifty, half-starved appearance. 

Few soils are so stubborn that draining and a thorough 
breaking up and manuring will not properly prepare 
them for planting. Such soils mast be prepared by- 
trenching or subsoiling to fifteen or more inches deep, 
at the same time working in from thirty to fifty loads of 
good stable manure to the acre. Top-dressing in alter- 
nate years will be required afterwards; this treatment 
will produce grand results with whatever is planted. If 
the soil should happen to be a heavy clay, or just opposite, 
a light sand or gravel, by mixing in some material of an 
opposite nature, for instance, with the clay using sand, 
loam, or lime, and with the sand or gravel, using marl, 
clay, peat, leaf-mould or loam in addition to the above 
treatment, the effect would be greatly beneficial. 

Deep culture promotes growth, by giving the roots 
ample room for extension, and the soil, if properly broken 
up, retains moisture the entire depth to which it is 
loosened, preventing to an astonishing degree, injury 
from severe drouths. In the most ordinary method of 
culture, the surface soil only is overturned, leaving the 
subsoil below — usually of a compact sterile nature — un- 
broken. But when the best results are desired, the sub- 
soil should be broken up, keeping both the surface soil 
and the subsoil separate. 

For places large enough to admit the plow, a subsoil 
plow, following in the furrow of the common one, and 
run down deep, is used to secure deep, culture. In 



316 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

smaller places trenching with the spade takes its place. 
Figure 124 shows how this operation is done. First, the 
surface soil occupying the space A, to the width of about 
six feet across the plot is thrown out entirely, and the 
subsoil underneath, a, is turned with the spade at the 
same time, working some manure into the subsoil. Then 
the section of soil of space B is thrown over into space A, 
and the soil of space b now brought to light, is treated as 



Fig. 134.— TRENCHING. 

that of a was. This way of procedure is followed with 
successive strips across the entire ground. The opening 
remaining at the end after the other side is reached, is 
filled up with the soil first thrown out. 

FINAL SHAPING OF THE SURFACE. 

Shapeliness of the surface is one of the distinguishing 
marks of a good garden, be it even, crowning, or undulat- 
ing as to the top. In going over the grounds to apply 
the final touches, a careful eye to observe the work of 
evening-up, is in many cases all that will be needed. But 
where the eye cannot be trusted, or if great precision is 
desirable in the final contour, then a line and stakes for 
small grounds, and regular levelling instruments for 
large ones will be needed. 

In using the line and stakes for this purpose, in com- 
mon sized lots, first drive a stake at each corner of the 
lot, a, b, c, d, in figure 125, and corresponding ones at the 



KBTAL SHAPING OF THE SURFACE. 



317 



corners of the house, a, h, c, d, of the same figure, all to 
project say two feet above the ground. Then determine 
where the final grade line is to be, at the point where each 
stake stands, marking the same on the stake. Now 
measure up on each stake one foot from the grade mark, 
and cut a notch. By next stretching a line — or sighting 




m 



- 

/a-"-7---r 




Fig. 125.— FINAL SHAPING OP THE STHiFACE. 

for long distances — from notch to notch thus made on 
any two stakes, such a line — called the datum line — it is 
plain, will be one foot above the desired grade as marked 
on the corner stakes. By setting a row of stakes at in- 
tervals of say twenty feet between the corner stakes, along 
the border, and a corresponding number which will come 



318 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

closer together along the house as shown by the letter 5 
in the cut, we may indicate the desired grade throughout 
on these, by simply measuring down one foot from the 
datum line at any point, provided it is intended to keep 
the desired grade straight. But most likely it ought to 
be a departure from a straight line to some extent, with 
probably a crowning point midway between corners. In 
such case, the measure should be something less than a 
foot, say ten or eight inches downwards on the stake at 
the most crowning point, and then gradually increasing 
the length of the measure in proceeding towards the cor- 
ners, in order to make a generally curving contour, even 
if slight. 

With a row of an equal number of stakes between cor- 
ner and corner all around the lot, as well as around the 
house, marked with the desired grade in the manner de- 
scribed, we may now proceed to run lines, shown by dots 



Fig. 126.— GUAGE FOB SLOPES. 

in the figure, across the plot between the stakes of the 
boundary row and corresponding ones at the house. 
Along these cross lines the desired grade may also be 
marked on the stakes, which should also be twenty feet 
apart. By passing over the entire grounds in this way, 
the new grade will be shown on stakes about twenty feet 
apart all over the area, and the finishing of the grading 
may be guided by these. 

It remains for those having the work in charge to de- 
cide on how much, if at all, the general contour shall 
vary from the straight line in all parts. The presence 
of any desired undulations here and there about the 
grounds, need not, with due allowance, interfere with this 



FINAL SHAPING OF THE SURFACE. 319 

work. Terraces and slopes may be shaped very perfectly 
as regards their surface on this principle. If these 
are to be straight in each part, and the angles and out- 
lines all straight, it will not be difficult to indicate the 
desired grade on rows of stakes at the top and bottom of 
any slopes, and at the margins of terraces. Where the 
outlines of terraces are curving, a little more difficulty 
attends the laying out and shaping. For such work, 
and in fact for all cutting of slopes, the slope guage shown 
in figure 126 is a great help. By laying out the upper 
curve of the slope, marking it clearly on the ground of the 
upper level, and then using this guage the work of cutting 
down the slants is easily done. Slopes should seldom be 
made of a greater angle than forty-five degrees. 

In thus shaping up the grounds, as directed, it is 
calculated that at this time the soil is distributed pre- 
cisely as it shall appear when finished and clothed with 
grass. But if in any case the surface has become har- 
dened by trampling or driving, it may be best now to 
carefully go over all with a spade, or in large pieces the 
plow, and work it over very evenly, preparatory to receiv- 
ing the trees, shrubs, plants, and grass. This I repeat 
should be carefully done, with a view to changing the 
lay of the land as slightly as possible. No attention 
need be paid to the stakes now, as these are no more 
needed. In plowing this time, the soil from the first 
furrow is thrown above the common level, after the 
piece is overturned it should be drawn into the open fur- 
row that is left by the plow in finishing, that all may 
become even again. A heavy harrow, along with a roller, 
should then be applied until the surface is thoroughly 
fined down. The roller serves to settle the soil, and re- 
veal small mounds and deficiencies which may need cor- 
recting with the shovel and rake. In small plats that 
have been spaded, the rake and hand-roller will be used 
in place of the harrow, etc. 



320 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

An earth float, made of a piece of common 3 by 4 or 2 
by 6-inch rough scantling, with one handle, for a float nine 
feet long, is shown in figure 127. Two handles are needed 
for one sixteen feet long. This will be found to be a use- 
ful implement for the final shaping of the ground, by 
drawing it back and forth over the surface a number of 
times in different directions. The walks being not yet 




Fig. 127.— A FLOAT. 

made, all stones and surface gravel can still be deposited 
in the openings for these. After this last plowing, all 
driving, and wheeling should be, if possible, confined to 
the drives and walks. 



CHAPTEE XXXII. 

PLANTING. 

All things considered,, spring is the best time to plant 
trees and shrubs, and the earlier it can be done, after the 
soil is dry enough to work, the better. Still with great 
care being observed in not letting the roots be exposed 
to the air for a moment more than is absolutely necessary, 
there is no reason why success should not follow, even 
when the trees are considerably started. I have planted 
Horse Chestnuts, Maples, Japan Quince, Althaeas, and 
many others, that were in full leaf, and scarcely lost one. 
But when any are so far advanced as this, it is necessary 
to remove most of the leaves and to do the work with great 



PLANTING. 321 

painstaking. The Larch, Birch, Beech, and some others 
cannot be transplanted thus late with any prospect of 
success. All the evergreens may be set several weeks 
later than deciduous trees. Fall planting of deciduous 
trees is generally successful if done in October — there 
being more risk with delicate kinds than with others. 
This is the preferable season for setting all of the robust, 
hardy flowering plants, and especially Paeonies. But fall 
planting of every kind should be done, if possible, as 
early as the month of October, in order to give the roots a 
chance to "get hold of the ground," as gardeners say, 
and store up some strength against the winter. 

Let us suppose that the stock for planting that was 
ordered from the nursery, has just arrived, and we find 
the garden not quite ready for setting them immediately. 
The trees should be taken from the shipping boxes and 
carefully heeled-in for a twofold purpose. First, to 
preserve the roots from drying ; second, to so arrange 
them that the labels can be examined, and any requisite 
tree be readily taken out for planting. The heeling-in 
should be done by digging a trench about a foot deep, 
and two feet wide, in a convenient spot. The roots 
should be set into this trench, and fine earth sprinkled 
upon them, to come in contact with all parts, finishing 
by filling the trench with the earth first thrown out. 
The soil should then be firmed with the feet, so that it 
will be in close contact with all the roots. 

Success in planting depends upon not letting the roots 
dry. More trees are killed from this cause than most 
people are aware. From the time that trees are lifted 
in the nursery, until they are finally planted, every means 
should be employed to guard against drying of the roots. 
They often suffer when heeled-in, by having the soil too 
loose about the roots. Evaporation goes on from the 
tops, the juices dry out, and under such circumstances 
they cannot draw in the moisture needed to make up for 



322 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

the loss. Evergreens, particularly, often suffer much 
from this cause. 

When ready to plant, first go over the ground with 
the working plan in hand, and set a stake wherever a tree 
or shrub is to be planted. The work may be simplified 
by writing the name of the kind on each stake. Holes 
should be dug of ample size to accommodate the roots 
when spread out naturally, and the soil should be care- 
fully kept in piles at the side of the holes and not need- 
lessly scattered. 

As the trees are being set, or preferably before, they 
should be primed. This operation should be governed 
somewhat by the loss of roots in digging, but as all trees 
and shrubs lose some roots during that process, and as 
we do not know just how many, a safe rule for most 
kinds will be, to cut away about one third to one half of 
the last season's growth. Any long roots may be also 
shortened a little, and the ends of all roots that were 
bruised in digging, should be cut off smooth. Evergreens 
should also be pruned somewhat when planting them. 

Set the trees so that when the earth is filled in, they 
will be as deep as they stood in the nursery. The prin- 
cipal feeding roots of the trees are near the surface, and 
to plant it deep is not to do the tree justice. An excep- 
tion to this rule is to be made, however, with such things 
as budded roses, and dwarf pears, which should be 
planted with the union of stock and cion two inches be- 
low the surface. 

The tree or shrub being in place, fine soil should be 
quickly sprinkled over the roots, and the plant so worked 
or shaken, that the earth will get well around and under- 
neath all of the roots. The good planter gets down and 
works the soil in between the roots with his fingers or 
with a small pointed stick, and on account of this care 
he seldom loses a plant. Before much soil is filled in 
upon the roots, it should be pressed firmly with the feet, 



PLANTING. 323 

or even a rammer. Such firming is a most important 
part of the work, and probably has more to do with the 
success of the planting than any other one thing. If at 
planting, the soil happens to be dry, or the tree is con- 
siderably started, do not fill the hole quite full at once, 
but run water into the opening to thoroughly soak the 
soil, finally filling in the earth the next morning. 

When trees are set singly, a space several feet across 
should be kept clear of grass for a few years. This space 
should be a little lower than the surrounding surface, 
in order that the tree may be perfectly watered in dry 
weather, and the soil worked. Where they are planted 
in masses or borders, the whole area they cover may be 
kept in cultivation, and the soil being in a thoroughly 
pulverized condition on the surface, admitting air and. 
moisture, they will do better than they otherwise possibly 
could. 

In some grounds, especially such as have been cut down 
by grading, sometimes nothing but the poorest, gravelly, 
sandy or clayey earth is available, although a facing loam 
from six inches upwards may be provided for making a 
lawn. It would be worse than useless to attempt to grow 
trees, shrubs, etc. , in such a place without special prepara- 
tion for whatever may be planted. Wherever a tree is to be 
set, one half to a cubic yard of the earth should be dug 
out, and the opening filled in with the same quantity of 
good soil from elsewhere, in which the tree should be 
planted. Where groups of trees and shrubs are to be 
planted, the entire area may be thus treated to a depth 
of one and a half or two feet. 



324 OKKAMENTAL GARDENING. 

CHAPTER XXXIII. 
LAWN MAKING. 

There are two ways of making a *awn, the one by sod- 
ding or turfing, the other by sowing grass seeds. For 
small gardens, the former is undoubtedly the best, while 
for larger areas, seeding is necessarily done, as it gener- 
ally makes a good lawn, and is much cheaper, although 
more time is needed to bring it to perfection. 

If it can be done, the ground to be put into grass ought 
to be allowed to settle during one or two good rains after 
the last grading spoken of in Chapter XXXI, and then be 
sodded or seeded. Otherwise some slight unevenness may 
appear after thorough settling. If the rain cannot be 
waited for, the earth may be settled with the roller. An 
earth rammer may also be brought into use, and if it is 



Fig. 128. — AN EAKTH-KAMMER AND SOD-BEETLE. 

found that any spots are softer than others, they 
should be firmed by this tool, afterwards evening-up 
the surface as may be needed, by the use of the rake. 
Figure 128 shows an easily made earth-rammer and sod- 
beetle combined, that will be found useful in a garden. 
For firming earth it is used mostly in a perpendicular 
position, striking the soil with the heaviest end ; but in 
setting sods evenly, these are struck mostly with one of 
the flat sides. It is worked out of a solid piece of five by 
five scantling, and about four and a half feet long. 

In laying sod, the surface of the ground should first be 
slightly loosened with a rake to make a bed for the 
grass roots, and if dry, sprinkled as fast as the turf is 
brouhgt. The best turf is that taken from a pasture lot 
or roadside, that has been kept low by grazing. That 
where sheep have been pastured is preferred, as these 



LAWN MAKING. 325 

animals, by their habit of biting close to the ground, de- 
stroy the coarse weeds. The better way of taking up the 
turf is to have the sods in long pieces, and to roll them 
up. In cutting the sod some gardeners use the line, and 
others a board with a straight edge, in order that the 
catting may be accurate. The board has this advantage, 
that it may be a foot wide, and then it can serve as a 
guage for width without any further measuring, by cut- 
ting closely along the sides. First, the cut should be made 
lengthwise with a sharp spade or turfing iron. Then 
starting at one end, one man with a sharp spade should 
cut the roots, so that the sod will be about an inch and a 
half thick, the assistant grasping the end and rolling it 
up, the grass side inwards, keeping on as the cutting 
proceeds, until a roll as large as it is convenient to han- 
dle is gathered. Where one man works alone, he may 
separate the sod by thrusting the spade in from the side, 
afterwards rolling it up. These rolls are readily trans- 
ported, and quickly unrolled and laid, leaving the lawn 
surface with few seams, as compared with cutting the 
turf in square pieces. Sodding may also be as well 
done by using square sods that are cut about a foot or 
fifteen inches square. 

In laying the sod, join all edges carefully, using a large 
knife in cutting. As the laying proceeds, if some 
portions of the turf happen to be a little thinner than 
others, soil should be worked underneath such parts. 
The different pieces should all be snugly pushed together 
as the work goes on. After being properly laid, all parts 
should be beaten with a wooden beetle, and afterwards 
well rolled. All of these operations are to be followed by 
a heavy sprinkling of water to encourage a new growth. 
Along the line of walks, drives, and borders, the turfing 
should be carried a little beyond the line, as it will be 
when finished, so that in dressing down the edges 
afterwards, the cutting will be through good, strong sod. 



326 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

Where lawns are made by seeding, the work is com- 
menced by turfing. All along walks, drives, borders, 
and wherever there is a termination in the grass plat, not 
otherwise bounded, a strip of turf about a foot wide 
should be laid down, as suggested in the preceding para- 
graph, for making a firm edge. But the ground where 
this edging strip of turf comes, should be cut down the 
thickness and width of the sod that its surface may be 
even with the part to be sown. Do not remove the soil 
quite as deep as the sod is thick, as some allowance should 
be made for compression in beating. All terrace slopes 
must be sodded also over their entire surface. 

When ready to sow the seed, the surface should be 
passed over with the rake and mellowed up a little on the 
top to receive the seed. It is a common error to use 
grass seed too sparingly. It is better to use four or more 
bushels to the acre, than less than four. 

As to kinds, where it is known that any one sort does 
well, it is best to sow only that one kind, as a rule Red 
Top or Bent grass, or Blue grass, are generally preferred. 
Where it is thought best not to depend on one alone, then 
several kinds should be mixed. Some always sow a little 
White Clover with the grass seed, for the greenness it 
maintains in drouths, but wherever lawns are kept 
watered this should not be added. The different grasses 
and their adaptability, are described in Chapter IV, of 
Part II. 

In sowing, the seed should be divided into two por- 
tions, half to be sown by passing over the land in one di- 
rection, and then, after lightly raking over the surface, 
pass over the piece again, sowing the remaining half 
cross-wise. After the seed is sown, the rake should be 
again applied lightly, or else the surface should be gone 
over with a brush harrow, and after this let a thorough 
rolling be given. 

The earlier the lawn can be seeded in the spring, pro- 



WALKS AND DRIVES. 327 

vided the ground is dry enough to work well, the better. 
By sowing in March, or early in April, a respectable 
lawn may usually be established by mid-summer. The 
great advantage of early sowing is, that the seeds and 
young plants have the benefit of spring rains and cool, 
growing weather. I have made fair lawns by sowing in 
the middle of June, in hot, dry weather, with the use of 
plenty of water and a sprinkler, but at best it is up-hill 
work at such a time. Early fall sowing is generally suc- 
cessful. Some advise the sowing of a thin sprinkling of 
oats, along with the grass seed to shade the young grass. 
This sometimes has a very favorable effect. 

As the grass starts up, and weeds with it, the mower 
must be kept at work on the new lawn. The weed seed 
lying in the ground usually comes up quickly, and will 
prove annoying for a while, but if the grass was sown 
thickly enough, and the mowing, together with going 
over the lawn and cutting out coarse growing weeds, 
is attended to for the first season or two, the lawn will 
come out all right in the end. 

On the general care of lawns see Part V. 



CHAPTER XXXIY. 
WALKS AND DRIVES. 

Good dry walks and roads are a great comfort about 
the home. As soon as the lawn is sown or sodded, with 
an edging of firm turf along the roads and walks, the work 
of construction may commence. The first thing to do in 
the way of putting down walks or drives is to cut the 
turf edge to the exact width desired. In principle of 
construction there is little difference between the two ; 
but the walk being narrower and not subject to so 
severe usage as the driveway, there may be a little differ- 
ence in details. 



328 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

Stone nagging, asphaltum, and other composition 
walks are generally put down by those who follow mak- 
ing them as a business, hence there is no need of direc- 
tions concerning their construction. 

For ordinary walks and drives in pleasure grounds, 
those made of gravel are most common in all but small 
lots, and are perhaps the best. They are comparatively 
inexpensive, pleasant in use and easy to make. They 
should be constructed with a view to firmness, and with 
such a shape of surface, that water from rains and 
melting snows will be absorbed or promptly pass off. 

The depth of excavation in making a walk, will depend 
somewhat on the nature of the sub-soil. If this be dry 
and absorbent, such as gravel or on high-lying rock with 
seams, then an excavation of a foot deep, or even less 



r^af^^Mffii^f^ 



Fie:. 129.— drains to roads. 



will be sufficient for walks, and no attention need be paid 
to under-draining them. But if the subsoil be retentive, 
such as clay, and requiring drainage, then the depth in 
the lowest parts where the drains come (see fig. 129), 
should be about fifteen inches deep, and one foot deep in 
the highest parts of the bottom. Underdraiuage to 
walks may be provided as shown in figure 129, either in 
the center or at the sides. In this figure, two styles of 
drains are shown, one of tile and the other formed of 
stones. Often such surface drainage as is described a 
little further on in speaking of drives, is all that is pro- 
vided for walks, and with satisfactory results, making a 
saving in the labor of construction. 

Before laying any underdrains for walks, the surface 
of the opening should be so shaped as to descend towards 



WALKS AXD DKIVES. 329 

the drains. The drains for walks may be made to com- 
municate with a general system of drains. After being 
laid, the excavations are to be filled up with stones, large 
gravel and similar materials, to within four or six inches 
of the top. The lower layer of stones may be set regu- 
larly on their ends, as shown in figure 129, and if this is 
well done, the finer stones and gravel working into the 
chinks will cause them to bind. 

The space above the coarse material should be filled in 
with good gravel of a size ranging from that of peas up 
to that of marbles. This may be obtained by screening, 
if gravel of the right size is not at hand. Any coarse 
gravel that comes from screening, may go at the bottom. 
In putting down the gravel, a little still firmer material, 
such as sand or a sprinkling of loam, or even fine clay, 
should be incorporated with it — all excepting a finishing 
coat to be laid on last — to cause it to pack. The gravel 
as it is wheeled in should be leveled with shovel and rake, 
and then thoroughly rolled with a heavy roller, wetting 
it freely as the rolling goes on, to aid in the packing. 
By such a course a walk can be made that will feel almost 
as firm to the foot as stone and be easier to walk on. 

The walk as finished should come up to within half an 
inch or an inch of the grass at the edges, and it should be 
rounded up to be some higher in the middle, just how 
much higher may be a matter of taste, as well as one 
governed by the width of the walk. Straight walks are 
not generally made as rounding as curved ones. If we 
take an inch and a half as the average increase of 
hight in the center for a six-foot walk — going above this 
for serpentine walks, but a little less for straight ones, 
the hight will not be far out of the way. On width of 
walks and drives see Part III. 

In road making, while the general material may be the 
same as that used in walks, the proportions throughout 
are on a heavier scale. As a rule, provision for draining 



330 



ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 



of roadways is made by surface drainage — that is, gutters 
are constructed along the sides, and sufficient roundness 
of surface of the road is maintained to easily incline the 
water into these. 

^^j- -T-in Figure 130 shows the con- 

X:j/Mm struction of a common stone 

" pavement bedded in sand. In 

Europe one often meets with 
Fig. 130,-stone pavement pave a wa ik s , made of narrow 

stone chips, with the surface 
that comes to the top, dressed straight. These pave- 
ments are comfortable to walk on, neat looking, and 
there is no wear out to them. 

Figure 131 represents a cross section of the favorite 
roadway for pleasure grounds, parks, and cemeteries, 
known as the Telford Eoad. 
An excavation is made from 
eighteen inches to two feet 
deep, to receive the material 
of the road. The body consists 
of large stones set regularly 
over the bottom, then broken 
stone, averaging the size of a 
hen's egg, makes a middle course, and on top of this 
is placed a finishing coat of about four inches of gravel. 
The whole is made firm by hammering and rolling as 
the work proceeds. The gutters consist of small sized 
paving stones at the surface, set in a water-settled body 
of sand. 

In all roads or walks with gutters at the sides, as well 
as at any low places, provision should be made for carry- 
ing away the accumulation of surface water. For this 
purpose silt basins or lodges constructed of brick and 
connecting with drains in the ground, are placed at 
required points. In figure 131, the cross sectional out- 
line of such a reservoir is shown. It should have a mova- 




Fig. 131.— SECTION OF TEL- 
FORD ROAD. 



PREPARATION FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES. 331 

ble silt grate on the top, placed on a level with or a little 
lower than the bottom of the gutter. The basin may be 
eighteen inches or more across and three to five feet deep. 
The pipe connecting this with the drain below, should 
start from the basin at a foot 
and a half or more above the 
bottom, and in this space, any 
gravel or other washings can 
' sink, to be removed occasionally 
Fig. 132— section of by lifting the grate away. 

mcaium koad. Figure 132 shows a cross sec- 

tion of the true McAdam road, a road built up solid 
with small broken stones firmly rolled. 




CHAPTER XXXV. 

PREPARATION FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES. 

As the shelter of masses of wood in breaking the 
gales of winter, admits of our growing a much larger va- 
riety of ornamental trees and plants, than would be possi- 
ble without it, so too we may further enlarge the list of 
suitable garden materials by attention to some of the 
special wants of plants as to soil and other conditions. 

ORDINARY BORDERS AND ELOWER BEDS. 

The soil best suited to the large majority of all flower- 
ing plants, shrubs and trees, is one that is not too heavy, 
is friable, deeply dug, and well enriched with decomposed 
manure. Many failures in plant-growing come from not 
having the beds rich enough. In making new borders or 
preparing flower beds, the wild garden, etc., if the soil 
was not well manured at the first, then a coat of two or 
three inches of old and fine manure should be applied and 



332 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

well worked in. Some fine leaf mould from the woods 
could not fail to be greatly beneficial. 

PERNS, RHODODENDRONS, ETC. 

The plants brought under the head of " Ferns and other 
Shade-loving Plants " in Part II, as well as Rhododen- 
drons, Kalmias, Andromedas, and some others, to do well, 
require a soil largely composed of vegetable matter, such as 
leaf mould or peat. These plants mostly have fine, delicate 
roots, that like coolness and moisture, hence the soil 
should be rather light in texture, and if not naturally so, 
should be improved by the addition of sand, together with 
other materials. A composition of equal parts of light, 
sandy loam, and leaf mould taken up in hollow places in 
dry woods, or else good peat, and all thoroughly mixed, 
would suit them. Good drainage is also needed for this 
class of plants, and yet they must never be allowed to suf- 
fer from excessive dryness in seasons of drouth, but 
should receive an occasional thorough watering at such 
times. 

Many of this class of plants prove to be so delightful, 
and do so well in a prepared soil, that it is worth while to 
be at some expense and pains to meet their wants by 
special preparation. Even if land is naturally heavy, 
money spent on making excavations two or more feet 
deep, and filling them with the soil they need, will be 
well spent. Most of these plants like partial shade, but 
some do not. Different beds may therefore be made in 
both the shade and sun, and then all can be accommodat- 
ed. The soil described is well suited to the Japan and 
other Lilies, but these require sun. 

THE ROCKERY, ALPINES, ETC. 

There is a considerable list of Alpine and other beauti- 
ful plants, natives mostly of high elevations, that do bet- 



PREPARATION FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES. 333 

ter and are more effective if planted on rocky or other 
mounds than elsewhere. 

The important points to he observed in preparing rock- 
eries for plants, is to have the right kind of soil, and to so 
place the rocks that the roots of the plants can penetrate 
the soil to any desired depth. Usually the roots of this 
class of plants, are fibrous and of great length. The soil, 
therefore, should be light and easily penetrable, as well 
as moderately rich. Some fibrous peat, leaf mould, 
gritty sand, and fine, sharp stones may be used in it to 
good advantage. 

Figure 133 will show the manner of arranging the 
stones in such places. Even if but little space is left in 
any places between the stones, so long as a layer of soil 




Fig. 133.— LAYING UP A BOCKWOEK. 

extends fully through to and connects with the body of 
soil below, it will answer. This is the important point 
in making rockwork of any kind. A pocket between 
rocks, with but a few handfuls of earth will dry out 
quickly, while one of similar appearance, but with the 
soil opening downwards, to give the roots access to mois- 
ture below, will keep the plants in good order in the 
dryest season. 

Archways of rocks should be so constructed as to have 
some soil overlaying these, and some crevices filled with 
earth, however small in quantity, extending back to the 
body of soil; this will allow sedums, trailing tradescan- 
tias, and such plants to grow beautifully if started m 
the crevices. 

Most of the Alpines delight in the sun and the lack 



334 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

of much moisture, liable to occur in mounds. But 
where a rockery is made in the shade, many of the ferns 
and wood plants are well adapted to the place. 

In building rockwork, the stones should be arranged 
with a view to suffering as little displacement from freez- 
ing in winter as possible. Those buried in the soil should 
have a large portion of their bulk underneath the surface. 
The ground being generally elevated in such works, and 
therefore dry, there is less danger of displacements than 
if it were wet. 

AQUATICS AND BOG PLANTS. 

Provided the necessary water or moisture can be sup- 
plied, these plants in some or all of their kinds, prove in- 
teresting in the garden. Where there are ponds, rills, 
etc., in the grounds, very little preparation will be needed 
to accommodate them. The aquatics may be planted in 
the water where it is about two feet deep, by anchoring 
their roots to a stone and allowing them to settle to the 
bottom together. Bog plants may be set at the borders 
of the water. If the ground is heavy along the shore, 
some sand and peat, muck or sphagnum, should be worked 
into it wherever plants are to be set. Sarracenias and 
many orchids especially, are benefited by having these ma- 
terials, if not present naturally, incorporated with the 
soil in goodly quantity. 

But it is easy to grow any of the aquatics, even the 
much-admired fragrant Water Lily, without having a 
natural body of water on the grounds. Any contrivance 
that will hold sufficient water, from a tank of masonry 
Avork to a wooden tub or second-hand barrel — a molasses 
cask sawed in two would be excellent — will answer to 
grow them. In the famous Kew Gardens, near London, 
there is a very successful aquarium, growing a large col- 
lection of hardy sj>ecies, and it consists of a simple brick 



GAEDEN AKCHITECTURE. 335 

wall laid up with cement, to make a water tank about two 
feet deep, with the walls strengthened by buttresses, at 
short distances apart along the sides. 

In artificial constructions of this kind, six or ei°\ht 
inches of loam, leaf mould, or swamp muck, should be 
placed in the bottom in which to set the plants. They 
may be held in place by placing a few stones over the roots. 

A soil that is not naturally disposed to hold a great 
amount of moisture, may be prepared by adding to it such 
materials as sphagnum, leaf mould or peat. If such a soil 
is kept constantly charged with moisture by watering, bog 
plants may be made to thrive in any part of the grounds. 
Certain plants of this kind are so attractive that any at- 
tention paid to securing them and supplying their wants 
will be well rewarded. 



CHAPTEE XXXVI. 
GARDEN ARCHITECTURE. 

Not having space in this book to treat on Garden Archi- 
tecture at any length, I pass over the subject with only 
noting some brief points. 

Whatever is introduced, we should aim at having it of 
good quality and workmanship. Nothing is more an- 
noying to cultivated taste than a cheap effort at having 
something elaborate. Better have but little garden archi- 
tecture, even if there is room for it, and let it be well 
made, than to have more structures of a cheap, flimsy 
character. Work simple in design, but substantial in 
quality, harmonizes best with garden scenery. 

All structures, from a stone coping to an elaborate con- 
servatory, should have a deep, well laid foundation. 
Even the garden vase or piece of statuary should not be 
used without a substantial foundation or base. The. 
depth of foundations of buildings will depend somewhat 



336 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

upon the nature of the soil, but six feet is safe in any 
place, and four feet may do for light, open soils. In set- 
ting copings, the pieces of which are of considerable 
length, foundations need only be made at the places 
where the joints or ends of the stones come, instead of 
along the whole length. 

Foundations for plant houses, arbors, or other wooden 
structures should be carried well above the surface, to 
ensure dryness to the sills. A base board may be allowed 
to project down over the stone work if it be desired, to 
hide it, and this can be replaced whenever it begins to 
show signs of decay, where it comes in contact with the 
earth. 

All planed wood- work should be thoroughly painted or, 
if finished with the natural surface, oiled. Oil finish is 
very pleasing about the garden, but in time it turns to a 
dull, dark color, and then it may be painted. The best 
colors for garden work are plain, unobtrusive ones. The 
grays and browns of stones, rocks, and tree trunks, show 
what colors are most in harmony with natural garden 
beauty. Such faint colors may be aimed at, and if 
lightened or otherwise varied to please the taste, are 
usually satisfactory. The bright green often met with in 
urns and trellises is in poor taste. It is a color for wire bas- 
kets that are to be hid in a protruding lining of moss, or 
may be tolerated in light wire screens, to be covered with 
verdure, but not elsewhere. Bronze is unobjectionable 
for garden iron work. 

In employing rustic work in the garden, whether it is 
constructed on the grounds or bought ready made, let it 
be firmly put together, and braced with all the nails 
clinched. In its manufacture, the material is irregular 
and hard to nail or fasten, especially in hard- wood, and 
so far as appearances go, that which is poorly put to- 
gether may look as w*e!l as the best, while in point of 
durability it is really very inferior. 



PART IV. 

MAINTENANCE. 

GARDEN OPERATIONS ARRANGED BY MONTHS. 

Half the secret of keeping a pleasure garden in proper 
condition, consists in duly regarding the little things 
that ought to be done, and of doing all work at the right 
time. In the pages which follow, the matters that relate 
to keeping up a garden are classified by months for the 
entire year, as a convenient guide to the work. It may 
not always be found, with our variable seasons and climate 
in different parts of the country, that the work under 
each month will be appropriate to that month for every 
place, but the arrangement at the least is valuable as 
showing about what needs doing at any time. The 
great merit of such a calendar is, that it enables the 
manager of the garden to anticipate the work, so that 
when the time arrives for doing, be it a little earlier or 
later than indicated, there may be preparations for it. 



CHAPTER XXXVII. 

JANUARY. 

AN - OUTLOOK. 

At this season we stand on middle ground, between 
the past summer and the one to come, and it is an ex- 
cellent time to consider any improvements it would be 
desirable to make during the new year. Flower beds to 
be filled with bedding plants may be studied for new ar- 
15 (337) 



338 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

rangements of their contents, as it is desirable to make 
changes here at times. Plans to guide such work are 
given elsewhere, and these may be the means of suggest- 
ing still other forms. Some of the most attractive beds 
are those planned by their owners. And yet original or 
untried plans should always be entered upon guardedly, 
as sometimes plants which look well on paper, fail to be 
satisfactory on the grounds. Look over the lists of gar- 
den materials with a view to new introductions. Much 
pleasure comes from extending ones acquaintance among 
trees, shrubs, and plants, and the true lover of a garden 
hardly feels satisfied unless making some additions to the 
collection every year. 

PRELIMINARY PROVISIONS FOR STOCK. 

The arrangement of the garden for the coming year 
being decided upon, then guage all purchasing of stock 
accordingly. Where many bedding plants are to be 
bought, usually by going to a florist now with the lists, 
contracts can be made for stock to be delivered at plant- 
ing time, at lower rates than if bargained for at that 
time, besides the advantage of being able to get just what 
is wanted, a thing not so sure in the spring. Any hardy 
nursery stock that may be needed, had better be ordered 
soon, as early comers receive attention first at the nur- 
series, and it is a great advantage to have such stock at 
hand early in the spring. The same principle will apply 
to ordering seeds, and most other supplies for the garden. 

OUTSIDE WORK. 

Little can be done outside in the garden this month in 
the North. Whenever mild weather allows, pruning may 
be done, directions for which appear under February. 
It is a good time to lay in a stock of manure, and cal- 
culations should be made for such a supply, so that 
some which is old and rotten may always be on hand. 



FEBRUARY. 339 

PESTS. 

If rabbits trouble trees, some blood sprinkled about, 
or liver or bloody meat rubbed on the trunks, will keep 
them off. Mice sometimes girdle trees and shrubs under 
the snow, which may be prevented by trampling down 
the snow close to the tree. Now is a good time to trap 
these pests, as their food is scarce and they are easily 
tempted by bait. Destroy the eggs of the destructive 
caterpillar if any are seen around the twigs of trees, near 
the ends. 



CHAPTER XXXVIII. 

FEBRUARY. 

PRUNING DECIDUOUS TREES AtfD SHRUBS. 

In the South, pruning of all kinds of deciduous 
growths may take place at any time in the winter, while 
at the North mild weather in February and March is the 
preferred time with most gardeners. Pruning is an 
operation not invested with mystery, as is too much sup- 
posed. The cutting is based upon this principle: as 
trees and shrubs develop buds along the branches, so the 
cutting away of any part of a branch necessarily con- 
fines future growth to the remaining buds, and with the 
effect usually of improving both the shape and vigor of 
the growth. It is necessary, to be sure, to exercise judg- 
ment as to where the cuts should be made, and the opera- 
tion must also be adapted to different kinds of plants 
and for different purposes, but beyond this there is no 
secret about this matter. 

Trees, which it is desirable to make bushy, should have 
the ends of their branches cut back occasionally. Al- 
most the entire list of moderate sized trees may be kept 



340 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

of compact and beautiful proportions — adapting such as 
would otherwise increase to be too large for small spaces 
— by this means. The Alders, Globe Acacias, Flowering 
Peaches, Camperdown Elm, Fountain Willow, and some 
others have need of a frequent or annual going over, to 
keep them symmetrical and shapely where such a form 
is desired. Rapid, slender growing trees, like the Silver 
and Cut-leaved Maples, Scarlet Oaks, Weeping Linden, 
etc., should, while young and growing fast, be headed-in 
several times to cause them to grow bushy. By such a 
course, there will be less danger of their limbs breaking 
from the ice and snow which sometimes gathers on them. 

Trees near the house, or in streets, should usually have 
high heads, to allow of good views from the house and a 
free circulation of air. These should rarely be cut back, 
but a thinning out of lower branches before they become 
large, should be resorted to to effect openness underneath. 

In any case where large branches need pruning away, 
the cut should invariably be made close to the trunk. 
To prevent splitting of the stump and possible injury to 
the tree by the weight of the branch at falling, first cut 
or saw half through the branch from below, about nine 
inches out; after this saw in from the top near to the 
tree until the limb falls, and then make a new clean cut 
close to the trunk, afterwards thoroughly coating the 
surface with thick paint, melted grafted wax, or shellac 
varnish, to keep out air and moisture. By such means 
the formation of new growth over the scar is encouraged, 
and in time this wound may have the appearance of any 
other part of the trunk — a vast improvement over the 
horrid stubs of branches, which are often seen projecting 
out a foot or two from the tree. Should the coating re- 
ferred to be neglected, permanent injury may easily come 
to the tree from rain soaking in through the scar, caus- 
ing it to rot at the heart. These instructions may in 
general apply also to the cutting away of small branches. 



FEBRUARY. 



341 



In simply heading-in small shoots of either trees or 
shrubs, it is well to make the cut just above and rather 
close to a bud, so that no wood will project beyond after 
the buds starts into growth. 

Almost all kinds of trees, with close-growing heads, 
may by pruning low at the start, be kept shrub-like in 
general form, with the head starting at the ground. In 
any large garden some Maples, Oaks, Beeches, Planes, 
Horse-chestnuts, etc., are very pleasing in this shape, 
when growing on knolls or at one side of ample areas of 
grass. 

In shrubs, while the careful training of some to par- 
take of tree-like forms, with low, clean trunks, is desir- 




Fig. 134.— NEGLECTED SHRUBS. Fig. 135.— SHRUBS PROPERLY PRUNED. 

able for the sake of variety — and almost any kind can be 
thus grown if pains are taken — still the bush form is or- 
dinarily the preferable one. 

Figure 134 shows forms of shrubs often met with, 
which have been allowed to grow at random and strag- 
gling by inattention. Lilacs, Snowballs, Purple Fringes, 
etc., of this shape abound; by pruning, they might ex- 
actly as well be kept in such pleasing forms as are indi- 
cated in figure 135. While generally, rounded outlines 
like these must be regarded as the finest for the flowering 
shrubs, each kind has peculiarities of habit, which should 
be preserved in a measure when the knife is used among 
them. 



342 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

Those not familiar with the pruning of shrubs, often 
err from not cutting enough at each time the job is 
done. So long as a small number of buds are allowed to 
remain towards the base on any young branch of one or 
several season's growth, there is little danger of prun- 
ing too severely for the good of the plant. In the en- 
gravings, figures 136 and 
137, two single stem 
shrubs are shown by the 
entire lines — or they may 
serve to represent branches 
at pruning time, and two 
places of cutting such 
stems, are indicated by 
cross lines. The first of 
these, figure 136, is badly- 
cut as a timid pruner 
might do the work. The 
second shows the right principle of cutting, where 
a fine bushy growth is desired. By cutting away 
only at the top, an ill-shaped, top-heavy new growth, as 
indicated by the dotted lines of figure 136 results, be- 
cause upper branches have a tendency to grow strongest. 
But if we make the cut away down, vigorous branches, 
and fewer start out, and near the base, causing a low 
and vigorous growth as figure 137 shows. 

This principle applies to the pruning of about every 
ordinary kind of vegetable growth, and amateurs should 
heed it as they are about handling the knife and shears. 
But at the outset, in pruning shrubs, a certain differ- 
ence of habit in the various kinds as to the manner of 
flowering, should be observed, if we would gain the best 
results. One class of shrubs produce their flowers from 
buds that were formed in the previous season. Another 
class flower from buds that appear on the new wood of 
the current season. Of the first class, those of which 



\> 


J 




i 




i 
7 


• '• 1 1 

!• ■; 


>': it 


V 

S 


if 
ft 






>7 


\ ViM/> "'' 


V 1 


/ 






/ 


*?&|JV'' 


If 




Fig. 136.— 


Fig. 137.— 


BADL 


r PRUNED. 


PROPERLY P 


RUN ED. 



FEBRUARY. 



343 



the flower-buds are prepared beforehand, some of the 
principal are : 



Lilacs. 
Weigelas. 
Mock Oranges. 
Calycanthus. 
Cornelian Cherry. 
Golden Bell. 
Honeysuckles. 
Flowering Currant. 
Flowering Peach. 
Deutzias. 
Dogwoods. 
Japan Quince. 



Dwarf Almond. 

Snowy Mespilus. 

Leather wood. 

Privets. 

Viburnums. 

Rhododendrons. 

Kalmias. 

Andromedas. 

Azaleas. 

Daphnes. 

Dwarf Horse-chestnut. 

Flowering Crab. 



If these shrubs are pruned at this season, the flowers 
will all be cut away. If the last year's growth of wood 
was strong, some pruning of the branches by shortening- 
in may be done, and yet enough buds remain for a fair 
show of flowers. But the best way to prune these, is to 
give them, once in every three or four years, such a severe 
heading-in, in whole or part, as may be needful to 
establish a good general form, and then regulate the 
growth year by year, with summer pruning. (See notes 
for June). 

Of shrubs that flower upon the current season's growth, 
the following are leading kinds : 

Eose of Sharon, or Althaeas. Coronillas. 

Burning Bush. 

Hypericums. 

Fall-flowering Spiraeas. 

Hydrangeas. 

Flowering Locusts. 

The pruning of these may be as close as you choose 
at this season, without detriment to the flower crop. In- 
deed, most of the kinds will flower all the more freely 



Amorpha. 
Bladder Senna. 

G-enistas. 



344 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

during the coming season, if closely cut back. Some, 
like the Altheas and the Pauicled Hydrangea, need this 
every year to prevent them from growing unshapely. 

By discriminating between these two classes of shrubs, 
and adapting the pruning to the peculiar habits of each, 
then heeding the instructions on Summer Pruning given 
in June, no one ought to find any difficulty in pruning 
his shrubs satisfactorily. 

Climbers on buildings, arbors, etc., need but little, 
and in fact as a rule no regular pruning. If they get 
thin and straggling, then the free use of the knife will 
work good results in the way of closer growth. Those 
on trellises and other places of limited extent, can be 
controlled to any desired degree by the use of the knife. 

Deciduous Hedges may be trimmed at this time. The 
notes under April on trimming evergreen hedges are ap- 
pliable in a large measure to these also. Honey Locust 
and Osage Orange hedges may be formed of a good size 
soonest by allowing the plants to grow un trimmed, until 
they are an inch through at the ground, and then cut- 
ting them down almost to the ground, somewhat as is 
shown in figure 137. Such treatment causes a vigorous 
new growth to start up, which will develop into a well 
formed hedge very quickly. Such hedges in after years 
must be trimmed annually the same as any other kinds 
of hedges. 

MANURE. 

Whether gardening for pleasure or profit, the ground 
must not be cropped year after year, not even of grass on 
the lawn, without returning some equivalent in the shape 
of manure. Hauling in a year's supply of manure may 
be done at any time during the winter. Every garden, 
unless a very small one, should have its manure-heap in 
some out-of-the-way, yet convenient, place. As to kinds, 
well decomposed stable manure, if it can be procured, 



FEBRUARY. 345 

even at a good deal of trouble, should be preferred to all 
others. Guano and superphosphates in moderate quan- 
tity are well enough, but if used alone — especially in 
heavy land — they do not provide that openness of the 
soil that tends to the retention of moisture, and the ad- 
mission of air, so essential to perfect vegetation. Cow 
droppings, a year or upwards old, that have been turned 
occasionally to aid in decay, form the best of all ma- 
nures. In time it will become as fine as the soil, and 
provision should be made to have a supply of this on 
hand for top-dressing the lawn, mixing with potting 
soils and other uses. Of the artificial manures, those 
composed largely of bone and other animal matter should 
be preferred. True and so-called G-uanos of different 
kinds are in the markets, and these are mostly very good. 
Sometimes good street scrapings or similar matters are 
easy to procure; these, if allowed to lay a while, with an 
occasional working over, prove valuable for mixing with 
the soil or sub-soil. Eefuse hops from breweries, after 
laying awhile and being forked over a number of times, 
become as fine and useful a manure as can well be found; 
it possesses high fertilizing properties. The same is true 
of decayed leaves from the woods, excepting that it takes 
a much longer time for these to become reduced to a fine 
friable mould. 

RUSTIC WORK, TRELLTSES, ETC. 

Repairing and improving of these should be done before 
the press of other spring work comes on. Boot rustic 
work, having shaved surfaces, ought to receive a coat or 
two of linseed oil yearly. Vases, trellises, or other painted 
garden work may now be put in order, by cleaning and 
painting. Prepare new trellises in good season. Plant- 
boxes, stakes, labels, and such things as will be needed 
during spring and summer, should now be made ready. 



346 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

CHAPTER XXXIX. 

MARCH. 

THE LAWN. 

As soon as the snow and frost leave the ground, and a 
few dry days have taken off the excess of moisture, all 
grass plats should be cleaned of any remaining fall-ap- 
plied manure or other litter, by the use of the rake, and 
rolled to remove the roughness they usually present after 
winter. In many places fall manuring of the lawn is 
very reasonably objected too on account of the presence 
of the unsightly coat for so many months. "Where this 
is the case, manure may be applied as soon as the snow 
leaves in the spring, and by leaving it on through the 
spring rains the benefits derived will nearly equal those 
of fall manuring, and the lawn be disfigured for a few 
weeks only. 

GRAVEL WALKS. 

Go over with a heavy roller, after the frost is gone, to 
settle them. Once in every three to five years the sur- 
face of the gravel ought to be turned over and rolled 
down again to give it new shape. 

SHRUBS AND TREES. 

There need be no hurry to uncover tender or newly 
planted shrubs and trees that have been protected. The 
alternate freezing and thawing they are subjected to in 
severe, late springs, is very injurious. When uncovered, 
they should at once receive any pruning they may need. 
If the general pruning of the hardy shrubs and trees has 
not yet been done, it should receive early attention. 



MAECH. 347 



ROSES. 



After hard freezing weather is over, roses should be 
pruned. In the South this may be done earlier than 
March, in the North April may not be too late. When the 
winter covering is removed, pruning should follow; this 
should be governed by the kinds and the objects in view. 
Most of the monthly roses, such as the China, Bengal, 
and Noisettes, that may have wintered safely, should be 
cut back to mere stumps, leaving one to three eyes on 
each stem. The strength of the plant will then go into 
these, making strong shoots, loaded with an abundance 
of flowers. With the Bourbons and Hybrid Chinas, the 
shoots should be left with six or eight eyes, and by bend- 
ing down the lower shoots they will form fine heads. 

The Hybrid Perpetual and Jane Roses should have all 
decayed and weak wood cut out. Any crowded branches 
that will prevent the light and air from freely penetrat- 
ing to the center, should be cut out. The remaining 
shoots, which are to produce flowers, should then be cut 
back to about six eyes from the base, or if the shoots are 
very strong, a few more may be allowed to remain. The 
pegging down system of managing these and the Bourbon 
Roses is usually very satisfactory. All shoots older than 
those of last year, should be cut away, and these that re- 
main should be bent down, with the ends pegged to the 
ground or tied to stakes. By this treatment no other 
cutting back is needed, except to trim away weak and 
unshapely shoots. 

Moss Roses will bear about the same treatment as the 
last named class, whether grown as bushes or pegged 
down, and they may be yet closer pruned. But this will 
not apply to the Princess Adelaide variety, which must 
not be severely pruned. 

The Yellow Roses scarcely require any pruning, fur- 
ther than to remove dead and weak shoots. If the plants 



348 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

assume an unshapely form, they should be so pruned as 
to make a better head, even if it be at the expense of 
some flowers for the following season. 

The Climbing Roses need only to have the poor wood 
cut away, and the strongest shoots shortened in. Nail 
and re-nail as needed, before the young growth starts. 



Early in the spring, any covering that was put on 
these in the fall, should be removed. Do not dig the 
soil until it is dry enough to work up loosely. Each 
spring, at the first working of the soil, a little rich ma- 
nure — the older and finer the better, should be dug in. 

IMPROVEMENTS. 

Any contemplated garden improvements should be 
completed as soon as the ground will work well. Avoid 
working the soil when it is wet, as bad effects will be 
manifest for the entire season. Sodding may be done 
very early in the spring. 

ANNUALS AND BULBS. 

As soon in the spring as the soil will work up finely, 
whether now or later, bulbs of the Gladiolus for an 
early crop of flowers, may be planted, and seeds of most 
of the hardy annuals be sown in the open border. For 
this purpose drills from one to two inches deep should be 
opened, in which the seeds should be scattered along 
quite thickly, afterwards covering them with earth. If 
the soil where the drills are made is inclined to be lumpy, 
cover the seeds with some light mould that has been run 
through a fine sieve, and to which some sand has been 
added. After covering, press the soil quite firmly with 
the back of a hoe, or by patting it with the garden 



APRIL. 349 

trowel. If the soil in which the seeds are sown is quite 
damp, watering it afterwards is not necessary, but other- 
wise this should be done, afterwards scattering a slight 
covering of clean straw, hay, or moss, over the watered 
parts, to retain moisture and prevent baking by the sun. 
But this covering must be taken off as soon as the young 
plants appear. Sometimes I have watered the bottom 
of the drill before dropping the seeds ; after covering 
with fine soil no further watering is necessary ; this 
method has always resulted well. 

INSECTS, ETC. 

Canker worms begin to ascend the trees as soon as the 
ground thaws. Any protector that is so contrived that 
they cannot get over it, placed around the tree, is the 
only sure preventive against their ravages. Mosses and 
Lichens on the bark of trees may be washed off with ley 
or soap suds. 



CHAPTER XL. 
APRIL. 

PLANTING. 

Early April, whenever the season is open, is the best 
time for planting trees, shrubs, and hardy plants, and 
the work should go on as soon as the soil is in good con- 
dition and the stock is at hand. If trees, etc., are set 
now, while the vegetation is yet inactive, there is a chance 
for the roots to become established in a more natural 
way, than if the setting is deferred considerably later, 
and the chances against loss are greatly lessened. Ever- 
greens may be set several weeks later than deciduous 
trees, but the sooner even these are planted the better. 
For directions on planting see Part IV. 



350 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

LAWNS. 

New lawns may be started by seeding or sodding. Old 
lawns should be well rolled and thoroughly raked to re- 
move the dead grass or manure, and to liven up the sur- 
face. The grass will start rapidly with warm weather, 
and the mower should be put in action as soon as needed. 

PRUNING EVERGREENS. 

Now is a good time for this work. If Spruces, Hem- 
locks, Firs, Arbor Vitaes, Junipers, and Japan Cypress, 
are in places too contracted to allow of their full develop- 
ment, they may be clipped every year and kept at almost 
any desired size. By thus cutting them they grow dense 
and handsome, which is very desirable, especially with 
that general favorite, the Norway Spruce, for this tree, 
without pruning, in time assumes an open style of growth 
not pleasing for small grounds. In gardens and cemeteries 
it is best to treat this tree by heading it back, at about 
twelve feet in hight,to form dense rounded specimens. The 
Pines are rarely better for pruning, although some kinds, 
like the White Pine, are very tractable under the shears. 
Whatever kinds are being pruned, their natural form of 
growth should usually indicate the shape, such as trim- 
ming the conical growers to a cone, and so on. 

As a rule, no cutting should be done further back than 
the last year's growth, although no harm is likely to come 
from so doing, if for any reason it seems best. Always 
cut a branch back to some strong bud, so that the new 
growth may start apparently from the end of the re- 
maining part. If the growth ought to be stopped in 
any direction, with a view to securing symmetry or to 
have the tree thicken, this may be effected without the 
blemish of a cut, by simply removing the center bud. 

If any kind of evergreen is becoming bare at the base, 



APRIL. 351 

it may be improved by severely cutting the leader and 
side branches. The beauty of an evergreen depends 
much upon being furnished with branches to the ground, 
and it is a very ungardener-like practice, intolerable to 
every correct notion of evergreen beauty, to prune away 
the lower branches and expose a naked trunk. 

Sometimes Pines are inclined to turn up a side shoot 
as a new leader. Such should be cut away, and in time 
the leader will come in the right place. If a leader in 
any conifer is lost by accident, another one may be had in 
its place, by tying a side shoot in an erect position. The 
American Arbor Vitas, some of the Firs, as well as others, 
are inclined to form several leaders, and if allowed to do 
this they will assume a bad shape. By trimming all the 
branches, excepting the main one, that will be strengthened 
and better able to retain its position as leader. 

EVERGREEN HEDGES AND CLIPPED TREES. 

The most perfect form of a hedge for pyramidal grow- 
ing kinds, is one that slopes more or less on the sides, as 
in figure 78, A, p. 232, thus admitting sun and light to 
the bottom, as well as the top. This should generally be 
the form for long hedges. The same engraving gives 
several forms suitable for shorter hedges of various kinds. 
In trimming, shears should be used, and the operation may 
be guided by the help of a stretched line, where precision 
is desirable, pains being taken to give it an even, unhag- 
gled appearance. To allow a hedge to go un trimmed for 
a number of years, is certain to soon injure it beyond all 
remedy. Most hedge plants naturally grow to forty or 
more feet in hight, and to allow a row of these standing 
close in the hedge, to shoot up without check, is to bring 
disaster to the row in time. 

The trimming of trees that are kept to definite forms, 
is not materially different in principle from that of hedges. 



352 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

It should be done with care with a view to good form and 
evenness, going over the work several times if need be. 
Box Edging may be reset in April or earlier. The 
ground where the line is to come should be rendered firm 
by treading or beating. Then a narrow trench is cut 
with great precision, the unbroken part on the line of 
the desired edging. The box plants pulled apart may 
have the ends of roots and tops clipped off a little, and 
then should be set along in the trench close together, 
and projecting an inch above the surface of the soil. 
Loose soil is then filled in by layers, and firmly trodden 
against the plants, until the trench is full. The edging 
should have the gravel of the walk brought up against it, 
so that no soil will show on the walk side of the line. 
If box edging is kept small by clipping — say to four or six 
inches in hight, it may last ten years without resetting. 
The edgings should be clipped annually at this season. 

HARDY PLANTS. 

These are benefited by being lifted, and divided if 
large, and set in new positions every three years for 
strong growers, and every five years for others. Clumps 
of such kinds as make many fibrous roots and numerous 
buds, may be divided with a sharp spade, leaving half a 
dozen or more eyes on each piece. Those that have large 
or coarser roots need more care. A knife should be used 
on these, taking care that each piece of root to be reset 
has at least one eye. 

FLOWER BEDS. 

Those to be planted with tender bedding plants may 
be worked over and made friable as a preparation towards 
receiving the plants later. By doing this now, the 
ground will be in a fine condition at planting time, be- 
sides the beds will look better if thus treated. See An- 
nuals under March. 



MAT. 353 



The fight against weeds should commence with their 
first appearance. Some kinds, like the Chick weed, and 
Shepherd's Purse, start up early, and soon develop flowers 
and seeds, to make trouble afterwards if not kept down 
by cultivation. See Weeds under May. 

ROCKWORK. 

If the rocks have -become disturbed by the action of 
the frost during winter, they should at once be put in 
order. 

HARDY AQUARIUMS. 

The ground in these should be kept covered with water 
in increasing quantity as the plants start into growth. 



CHAPTER XLL 
MAY. 

THE LAWN". 

The care of the lawn will be about the same for every 
month, from now until the end of the season, and will 
consist chiefly in keeping it properly mown, watered, and 
free from weeds. When the grass grows rapidly it will 
be necessary to mow about every week. It is always 
better and more economical of labor, to cut the grass 
when only two inches high, than to wait until it is four 
or six. The present hand lawn mowers are greatly pref- 
erable to the scythe for mowing even quite small places. 
On large grounds the horse mowers may be used with 
economy. Still, in mowing some parts, as about thickets 
and trees, the scythe and sickle are indispensable helps. 



354 OBNAMENTAL GARDENIKG. 

In running a lawn mower, the operator should be par- 
ticular to always set both sides at the same hight, so that 
the surface of the grass may be even when the work is 
done. That no lines of uncut grass should be left, ought 
to occur to every mower, yet lawns may sometimes be 
seen that show defects of this kind. 

WEEDS. 

A large share of the annoyance in gardening comes 
from weeds. It is really surprising how soon slight neg- 
lect will show multitudes of weeds in lawn, walks, and 
elsewhere. A little labor judiciously applied, will easily 
keep a place clear of these. A great secret is to attack 
weeds when they are small, so small that they will not 
require removal when cut off. If this is done at the 
right time, it will be less work to keep a garden thoroughly 
clean than to keep it half clean. Now weeds are gross 
feeders, and rob the garden plants of food and moisture. 

The best way to remove spreading weeds, like plantain, 
dandelion, docks, etc., from the lawn, is to cut them off 
just below the crown, disturbing the soil as little as pos- 
sible. Any holes that appear should be filled with earth, 
and the grass will soon spread over these spots. By cut- 
ting out every two weeks all that ajopear, every noxious 
weed may soon be exterminated, for no plant can live if 
its leafy or above ground portion is persistently destroyed 
every time it appears. Coarse grasses, unfit for lawns, 
sometimes start up from seeds carried in by the wind, 
and these must be treated as any other weeds. Allowing 
any kinds of weeds to go to seed in the ornamental gar- 
den is the hight of mismanagement. 

For ridding walks of weeds, salting is the best plan, 
except near the edges, where salt will kill the roots of 
grass or plants that come near, here they must be hand- 
picked. 



MAT. 355 

PLANTING OUT. 

Every year there are those who, in their haste to see 
the tender flowers in bloom, subject them to the exposure 
of chilly, windy days or frosts, only to enfeeble them 
and injure their future usefulness. As a rule, in the 
North, few tender green-house plants or half-hardy annu- 
als should be set earlier than May 25th, while long experi- 
ence shows that nine times out of ten, all tender things, 
like Ooleus, planted as late as the first of June, will go 
ahead and excel in size and beauty, those that were set 
two weeks earlier. Verbenas, Eoses, Carnations, Pinks, 
Stocks, and other plants that are not affected by a slight 
frost, may be planted out several weeks earlier. Gladi- 
olus, Tigridias, and Dahlias, may be planted any time in 
the month. Tuberoses should not go out before the 
20th of the month. 

SUB-TEOPICAL GABDENS AND EOCKERIES. 

The former may be arranged for the season, and the 
latter brightened with tender flowering kinds, and those 
with showy foliage, as soon as warm weather is established. 

SEED SOWING. 

Seeds of all the hardy and half-hardy annuals may be 
sown any time during the month, and those of tender 
annuals after the 10th of the month, and earlier in the 

South. 

EOSES, INSECTS, ETC. 

Towards the end of May, and later, insects will begin 
to trouble rose bushes. The Rose Saw-fly, especially in 
its caterpillar state, known as the Rose Slug, is one of the 
most annoying pests, but with attention to keeping them 
down, the plants maybe sa^ed from serious depredations. 
In the fly state they are of a shiny black color, about one- 
fifth of an inch in length, and found mostly on the un- 



356 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

der side of the leaves, or flying from bush to bush. The 
first young slugs hatch out usually about June 1st, and 
increase in number during the month. These are of a 
pale green color, almost transparent, and feed upon the 
leaves, which soon look as if they had been burned. Dry 
slaked lime scattered over the leaves while wet with dew 
is a most convenient remedy that often proves effectual ; 
but a more sure one may be had in frequently syringing 
the plant with whale oil soap dissolved in water in the 
proportion of one pound to eight gallons of water ; many 
of the flies can also be destroyed with this solution if 
applied when they first appear. The Rose Chafer, or 
Rose-bug, is a troublesome insect, a small beetle, with 
a slender body, tapering before and behind, measuring 
near three-eighths of an inch in length, and covered with 
ashen-yellow down. They usually appear towards the 
middle of June, and remain from four to six weeks. 
About the only way of destroying these is to pass over 
the plants daily, shake or brush them into tin vessels 
containing water upon which a little kerosene is floating, 
or they may be gathered on sheets and burned. 

Mildew is a fungoid growth which shows itself upon 
the leaves and small twigs. It has a gray mould-like ap- 
pearance, and seems to be invited by anything that causes 
the growth of the plant to be suddenly checked. The 
ordinary agent for destroying mildew is flowers of sulphur 
dusted upon the leaves after wetting them, every few days, 
until no more is seen. Rust frequently troubles Roses in 
the garden, appearing on the leaves. Cut off and burn 
the infected branches. 

SUMMER MULCHING. 

Borders containing Rhododendrons, Lilies, and other 
plants that love coolness and moisture at the roots, 
should early in the season receive a heavy mulch of 
leaves, cut straw, bog-hay, or tanbark. 



JUNE. 357 



CHAPTEK XLII. 

JUNE. 

PLANTING OUT. 

Early June should see all the beds planted, as now 
everything may be trusted outside. Those who wait 
until the present month for setting out their tender 
plants, have the satisfaction of seeing them start off with 
a vigorous growth from the first. 

EOSES. 

This is the great Eose month. After the Eemontants 
or Hybrid Perpetuals have bloomed, by shortening in the 
branches somewhat, the plants will be inclined to flower 
better in the autumn. Monthly Eoses flower more freely 
as a rule, for having the branches pegged to the ground. 
Observe last month's notes on insects. 

SPROUTS, SUCKERS, AND "SPORTS." 

All through the growing season a look-out should be 
kept for sprouts that may start up from the roots of 
shrubs like Lilacs, Oleasters, etc., or from strong-grow- 
ing kinds of stocks, such as are used for grafting or bud- 
ding. The stocks of Kilmarnock and other Willows, 
Weeping Poplar, Eoses, and many others, often throw up 
such shoots. These should be removed as they appear, 
for if allowed to get a start they draw vitality from the 
tree, at the expense of the budded or grafted part. Many 
persons are deceived by such shoots, and permit them to 
grow, which of course in the end can only result in dam- 
age or outright death to the improved and always some- 
what feebler part. We may sometimes meet a coarse, 
wild Willow or Eose in pleasure grounds, that made its 



358 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

start in this way, the improved part of which died long 
ago. Some handsome shrubs like the Waxberry, bend 
down the tips of the branches, which take root ; the 
plants thus formed should be treated as weeds, unless it 
is desired to multiply them, when they should be removed 
and cultivated elsewhere for later planting. 

Most of the shrubs, trees, and plants, with variegated, 
cut, or curled leaves, are what are called "sports" — that 
is, they are departures from the ordinary forms of 
the plants, and which have been propagated for these pe- 
culiarities which are more or less distinctly fixed. There 
is sometimes an inclination in such growths to revert to 
the normal form, and this should be prevented by cut- 
ting out any parts that fail to show the peculiarity. The 
beautiful variegated-leaved Kerria and Waxberry, need 
rather close watching on this account. 

CONTROLLING THE HABITS OF TREES AND SHRUBS. 

The Junipers of erect habit are striking garden orna- 
ments if of good forms. ' But sometimes they are disposed 
to spread out and receive damage by the lodging of snow 
in the centers. A few wires placed closely around them 
will obviate this trouble, and lead to good forms. Weep- 
ing trees, like the American "Willow, Poplar, Ash, etc., 
may be improved in symmetry by extending a large hoop 
around the tree, to which the branches are brought and 
secured. When a tree is crooked or is disposed to lean 
from the perpendicular, it should be straightened while 
young, by tying it to a stake driven in at its side, or if it 
merely leans over, by the less conspicuous means of set- 
ting a short stake a little ways off, drawing the tree 
towards it by means of a wire, one end of which is 
attached to the tree by means of a leather strap, and the 
other end wound around the stake. It may be noted 
that crooks in young tree trunks naturally decrease as 



JUKE. 359 

the tree grows. Honeysuckles and other climbers, grown 
as standards, by stopping the leading shoots at five or six 
feet, should be furnished with stakes or supports as 
needed. 

SUMMER PRUKIKG. 

Those shrubs which flower on last season's growth (see 
Pruning under February), and which if pruned severely 
in winter, are robbed of flower buds, may have their 
growth controlled by summer pruning. This is best 
done by shortening back the old wood just after flowering, 
cutting out entirely any branches that seem to be useless 
and in the way. By these means a free growth of young 
wood for flowering the next year will be promoted. Then 
later, throughout the growing season, any shoots that 
grow too rank may be pinched back to control the form 
of the shrub. The tendency of Fir trees to run up 
tall and lose their lower branches, may be overcome by 
cutting back the leading shoots occasionally. Early 
summer pruning of the Norway Spruce, cutting away 
one half of the young growth now, will lead to the starting 
of many side buds on each, causing the tree to become 
very compact. 

HEDGES AKD CLIPPED TREES. 

Any treatment that tends to check the growth of these, 
without impairing healthfulness, is desirable. Shearing 
either evergreens or deciduous kinds, just as the present 
season's growth begins to harden, has some such an effect. 

THE LAWK. 

Pains should be taken to have it well and evenly mowed. 
Keep all verges properly clipped along the walks, borders, 
and buildings. To leave this undone, is to give a place 
a slovenly appearance. See under May and July. 



360 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

WALKS AND DRIVES. 

Keep them clear of weeds and litter. Roll those of 
gravel occasionally, and keep the edges tidy. Sprinkling 
the walks tends to agreeable coolness. 

BORDERS AND FLOWER BEDS. 

Tender bedding plants of every description should now 
be out. Hyacinths and Tulips produce better flowers if 
the bulbs are lifted after the foliage begins to wither, 
keeping them in a dry, cool place during summer, and 
resetting them again in October. Annuals that were 
sown in the border, should be thinned where they are 
crowded. Work the soil frequently to keep down weeds, 
and promote the growth of the plants. Small borders 
kept open around trees, need careful attention as regards 
this. See Flower Beds under July. 

MISCELLANEOUS. 

Save seeds from Pansies and other plants, and for fall 
flowers of Pansies, sow towards the end of the month. In 
the Wild Garden remove, or keep in check, coarse weeds. 
Keep Hardy Plant Aquariums supplied with water. Peg 
down Verbenas and Monthly Eoses. Any young trees of 
a delicate nature are benefited by having their trunks 
protected from the hot sun for a few years, by matting 
bound around them, and a mulch over the roots. Pro- 
vide Sweet Peas with trellises, and all other climbers 
with the needed support. 

INSECTS. 

Sometimes the white grub works much damage to the 
roots of plants. If plants in the beds or border that were 
healthy, are seen to turn yellowish and cease growing, 



JULY AND AUGUST. 361 

suspect the presence of the white grub and dig down, 
find, and kill it. Angle, and other worms, sometimes 
trouble lawns, and may be killed by slaking a half peck 
of lime in a barrel of water, and after it is well settled 
applying the clear liquid freely with a watering can. 
This lime water will also destroy the aphides that attack 
the roots of trees or plants, and in fact all soft bodied 
worms and insects, and do the most delicate plants no 
harm. If Plant Lice or Wooly Aphides appear on the 
stems and leaves, bend these down into a pail of tobacco 
or quassia water ; if on the trunks and branches, use a 
brush, and vigorously apply the liquid. Ants are often 
troublesome, and may be destroyed by putting some fresh 
bones or a sponge saturated with sugar water in places 
where they resort, and after they collect upon and cover 
these, which they soon will do, drop them into boiling 
water or burn them. This should be repeated until all 
the ants are gone. 



CHAPTER XLIII. 

JULY AND AUGUST. 

SUMMER WATERING. 

Nothing can go farther towards making our gardens 
pleasant in summer, than to have the grass, plants, and 
trees in green, vigorous condition during the hot, dry 
spells, so common at this season. Where water is plenty 
this is easily accomplished. In watering lawns, means 
must be provided to conduct the water to all points where 
it is needed, and a contrivance must be provided for dis- 
tributing it properly. Stands and distributing nozzles 
for this purpose are for sale by dealers. Late in the day 
is the best time to have the sprinkler in operation. Ter- 
16 



362 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

race slopes require some extra care, to have them properly 
watered at this season. 

Trees and shrubs if thoroughly watered at times during 
dry weather, will repay the trouble, in greatly increased 
growth and beauty. Thorough watering is the means of 
getting large trees in a few years. The best time to 
water trees is during or immediately after a rain, because 
the atmosphere being then charged with moisture, water 
at the root does more good. Water thoroughly by giving 
each tree a half dozen or more bucketfuls. If there is 
no depression around the tree to hold water, puncture 
the soil with the tines of a spading fork, for a space as 
far across on the ground as the top of the tree is wide. 
In cultivated borders, the soil can be drawn back from 
each plant or tree to be watered, forming a basin about 
it, and filling it again and again with water, until there is 
enough. The next day the basin may be covered, and 
the surface of the soil mellowed with a rake. 

In watering Flower Beds, where plants stand close to- 
gether, the digging fork may be used for puncturing the 
soil to admit the water. Kockwork and the out-door 
fernery will require occasional waterings during dry 
weather. Supply hanging baskets, plant boxes, and 
vases with plenty of water at all times. Enough water 
should be used on these to thoroughly moisten every por- 
tion of the soil each time it is applied. Do not be satis- 
fied when the surface looks wet, but be sure the earth is 
soaked to the very center. 

Where there are no public water-works and connections 
for summer watering, every garden should have a handy 
water- barrow. For large grounds, the best form to 
choose is one with a removable tub, so that while one tub 
is being emptied another may be filling. The pumping 
of water by wind or other power into tanks sufficiently 
elevated to give a head for forcing the water through 
pipes and hose, all around a place, is easily arranged, 



JULY AND AUGUST. 363 

affording a complete, economical, and independent water- 
works in every garden. 

FLOWER BEDS. 

These ought now be nearly or quite at their best, and 
the keeping of them in presentable shape will be one of 
the chief cares at this time. Carpet beds should be gone 
over every week, and the plants carefully clipped with a 
view to keeping them low and solid, and maintaining 
clearly defined lines between the different kinds in the 
design. This is work upon which a great deal of skill 
may be expended. Common shears, or sheep shears, 
having a spring to open them, are used. All clip- 
pings should be removed, as well as .any weeds that may 
start up. To reach all parts of beds that are closely 
covered, a bridge consisting of a large plank supported, 
at the ends must be used. 

Cut away the fading flowers of all plants ; if allowed 
to ripen seed, the flowering will be impaired — besides, 
faded flowers mar the beauty of collections. Double 
Balsams are more attractive if they have some pruning. 
Leave one, three, or five branches, as best suits the fancy, 
and cut away the others. If the first spikes of strong 
Gladiolus are cut when fairly in flower, they will usually 
throw up a number of new spikes. 

SEED SOWING AND PLANTING. 

There are a number 01 hardy plants that ripen their 
seeds by mid-summer, and if it is desired to propagate 
these, the seeds should be sown soon after they are ripe, 
or any time before the middle of September. Then the 
seedling plants will be strong enough to winter over in 
safety and flower the next season. Sow in a seed-bed of 
fine soil; keep watered and shaded until the plants are 
up. The Common or White Lily (Lilium candidum), 



364 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

should be transplanted now, as this is its natural season 
of rest. 

MISCELLANEOUS. 

Eead instructions en care of lawn, walks, weeds, etc., 
of previous months. Dahlias, Gladiolus, Hollyhocks, 
and all tall-growing plants, should be provided with 
stakes as needed. Let them be simple, neat, and painted of 
some inconspicuous color. Eemove the seed-pods of Kho- 
dodendrons early after flowering. Borers in Acacia and 
fruit trees should be dug out, whenever there are signs 
of their presence near the root. Aquariums must be 
kept filled with water to make up for evaporation. On 
Summer Pruning read the notes under June. 



CHAPTER XLIV. 
SEPTEMBER. 

EARLY FROSTS. 



In this month, in many parts of the country, we may 
look for the first touches of frost. As there is usually a 
good deal of fine, warm weather after the first frosts, 
flower-beds, plants, vases, etc., should be covered on 
nights when frost is threatened, with a view to keeping 
up the beauty for such later delightful spells of weather. 

PLANTING DUTCH BULBS. 

Planting at the approach of the fall and winter season 
seems so contrary to the general order of things to many, 
that this, the only course for securing fine collections of 
Tulips, Hyacinths, etc., is often neglected. The plant- 
ing of such bulbs may be done at any time during the 



OCTOBEK. 365 

months of September, October, and November, or even 
later, provided the ground remains unfrozen. It is best, 
however, to not defer the work much after the first of 
October. Set Tulips five or six inches apart, and about 
five inches deep. Hyacinths may be planted six or eight 
inches, and Crown Imperials at a foot or more apart, and 
at the same depth as for Tulips. Crocuses and Snow- 
drops need not be more than two or three inches apart, 
and about the same depth. Planting these in clumps is 
the most effective way to arrange them. Crocuses and 
other low-growing kinds may be planted about the lawn 
in the grass, and will thus produce a pleasing effect early 
in the season. 

HARDY PLANTS. 

Such kinds as have finished flowering and are past 
active growth, may be taken up, divided, and reset dur- 
ing this month and the next. See notes on these under 
April. By doing this early, the replanted portions have 
a chance to become established before winter, and flower 
better the next year than if divided in spring. This is 
particularly true of Paeonies, which should be divided in 
October. 



CHAPTER XLV. 

OCTOBER. 
THE LAWS". 



Grass usually grows with vigor during this month, and 
the mowing must be kept up as needed. Because the 
end of the season is near, do not allow weeds to start up 
and disfigure the grass plat ; keep late weeds from the 
walks, drives, and borders. 



366 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

BORDERS AND FLOWER BEDS. 

Bead the directions on Bulb Planting and Hardy Plants 
for last month. Take up Tuberoses, Dahlias, Gladiolus, 
Cannas, Caladiums, Tigridias, Madeira Vines, Erythrinas, 
a few days after the frosts have blackened the plants. 
All of these, excepting Erythrinas, should be dried off in 
the shade, and when perfectly dry, stored until spring. 
The best place for them is one that is cool and dry, and 
there is nothing better to pack them in than dry sand. 
Gladiolus and Tigridias may go into paper bags. 

As soon as the flower-beds become disfigured by frosts, 
clear them, coat the surface with manure, and dig them 
over for the winter, leaving the clods of earth from the 
spade or digging fork unbroken during this operation, 
so that the air and frost may have full effect on the soil 
during winter. The freezing of the water, held by the 
earth in this shape, causes its small particles to be 
rent asunder, just as the freezing of sap in plants lacer- 
ates the vessels, and makes the texture of the soil more 
friable the next year. In borders, where shrubs and 
hardy plants are growing, the digging should not be 
done near to them so deeply as to injure the roots. 

AUTUMN SEED SOWING. 

Early in October, seeds of Sweet Alyssum, Callirrhoe, 
Candytuft, Centaurea, Clarkia, Larkspur, Lupines, Mig- 
nonette, Nemophila, Portulaca, and lawn grasses, may 
be sown wherever the soil is well drained and not heavy. 
Then they will start up early in the spring, and in the 
case of the annuals, will flower freely, much earlier than 
will spring sown ones. In the South and on the Pacific 
Coast, all hardy and 'half-hardy annuals may be sown in 
the fall, and Gladiolus be planted. 



OCTOBER. 367 

SEEDLINGS. 

Pansies and other plants from seeds sown in the sum- 
mer, will be showing up well by this time. Early in the 
month they may be pricked out into beds of fine soil, at 
a distance of several inches apart each way, to allow 
them to develop into strong plants by winter. These, 
in the spring, may be set where wanted for flowering. 
Pricking out or dibbling small plants is frequently done in 
the garden. The dibble may be merely a smooth -pointed 
stick for small plants, as large as a finger. In using the 
dibble a hole is made, and in this the seedling is held, 
while the dibble is thrust into the soil a second time, in a 
way to crowd the earth firmly against the roots, after- 
wards pricking a little soil into hole number two, to even 
the ground. If a tip of a leaf will break when pulled, 
without bringing up the plant, it is considered firmly 
enough planted. After being thus set, the plants should 
be well watered. 

IMPROVEMENTS. 

Usually, now is the season of the year to make improve- 
ments and alterations, in the line of grading, draining, 
trenching, etc. The soil is often dry at this time, and 
the air cool and bracing, a state of things under which 
men and teams will do almost double the work they 
would if land is loaded with water, and the weather dis- 
agreeable. 

Trees, shrubs, and hardy plants may be planted in 
October, where everything is ready for it. The earlier it 
is done after the tenth, the better, in order that they 
may gather up strength before winter. If the leaves re- 
main at planting time, they should be stripped off before 
taking up the trees, etc. Evergreens seldom do well 
planted in the fall. 



368 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING, 



CHAPTER XLVT. 



NOVEMBER AND DECEMBER. 
FALL MANURING. 

Every other year, or every three years, the lawn should 
receive a top-dressing of manure, and provided the right 
article of this is at hand, the fall months is the best time 
to apply it. The best top-dressing is an inch deep of 
thoroughly decayed manure, and if so old and fine that 
there will be nothing left to rake off in the spring, all 
the better. Objections to fresh manure are its offen- 
siveness, and that it is liable to contain weed seeds, which 
will make trouble. If such manure is at hand, the apply- 
ing of it may be deferred until February or March, for 
the sake of not having it on so long, while some prefer 
that time for applying any kinds of fertilizers. Bone 
manures are excellent for the lawn and free from weeds. 
Manure should also be applied occasionally as a surface 
dressing under plantations of all evergreen and decidu- 
ous trees and shrubs. Put on several inches here, and it 
will tell in increased vigor very perceptibly. "Where it 
is desirable to do an extra job on specimen trees, the sod 
may have four or more cuts made into it in diverging 
lines from the tree, as far out as the limbs extend, and 
then each section of sod between the cuts be lifted and 
rolled up outwards all around, so as to expose the soil 
below. Then remove three or four inches of the soil, 
throw in some fine old manure at the bottom of the 
opening, and afterwards fill in the earth again and roll 
the sods in their place, to firm them down. 

FALL PROTECTION. 

The best time to apply any fall protection is in the last 
days before winter sets in, which is usually about the 
latter part of November. There are many trees, shrubs, 



NOVEMBER AND DECEMBER. 369 

and plants, that are hardy after they become well estab- 
lished, and the roots have had a chance to push below 
the frost line, that should be protected for a few years. 
Partial protection, by covering the surface over the roots 
with a mulch of straw, hay, or leaves, will be all that 
is needed by many kinds. Such a covering, four inches 
thick, is enough, and more might cause mildew. Shrubs 
that are tender, should also be protected with straw or 
matting above the ground. Bring the branches together, 
lash a cord around them, and place the straw about them 
for their entire length, completing by winding strong 
twine around the whole with the turns at short distances 
apart. If a tree with branches too large to be brought 
together into one bundle, is to be protected, then a num- 
ber of different bundles may be made, afterwards drawing 
these together somewhat and binding them. Eoses and 
other plants that can be bent to the ground, by taking 
away a spadeful of earth at the root on one side, may be 
protected by completely covering them with six inches 
of soil. 

Many evergreen trees cannot well be brought together 
to bind with straw ; these may have boughs of any kind 
of evergreens placed over and against them to keep off 
sun and wind, which more than anything else injure 
evergreens in winter. A hood, made 
of seven-eighth inch matched stuff, as 
shown in figure 138, may also be used 
for such purposes. The lower growing 
evergreens may be covered by strewing 
Fig. 138.— straw over them. Globe-headed ever- 
a plant hood, greens, like the dwarf Arbor Vitses, and 
some others, are at times liable to suffer from snow lodging 
in the tops, causing the branches to spread out of shape. 
This may be prevented by nailing two boards of a suit- 
able length into the form of a letter V, and then invert- 
ing this over them, lashing a cord around both, to bring 




370 ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 

in the side branches somewhat. In protecting with ever- 
green boughs, thrust the ends into the earth, so that 
they will freeze fast and keep their positions. 

Hardy Plants in the borders are benefited by a slight 
covering over the roots during the winter. In nature 
they are usually protected by leaves. Cover the surface 
with a light coat of straw, coarse manure, or leaves, and 
the plants will flower all the stronger for it. Fall-planted 
bulbs, like Hyacinths, should receive special attention in 
this respect. Such rather tender plants as Pampas Grass, 
the tender kinds of Liatris, Erythrina, Tritomas, etc., may 
be lifted and stored for the winter in dryish earth in the 
cellar, or any cool place where it does not freeze hard. 

Artificial plant aquariums and fountains, that are in 
danger of being damaged by the water in them freezing, 
should have it emptied, and a shed of boards placed over 
the basins to keep out wet and snow. Before putting on 
this cover, fill up beneath with some straw or leaves, to 
keep the frost from injuring the masonry. 

Heavy snows may injure shrubs and trees, if allowed 
to remain on them. Shake out accumulations of it, that 
are liable to freeze fast or turn into ice. If sleet gathers 
on the trees and there is danger of injury to them, prop 
up the branches in good time to obviate this. Young 
trees in places subject to sweeping winds, should be se- 
cured to stakes in the winter, to prevent injury by their 
being whipped and wrenched about. 



INDEX. 



GEKERAL LHDEX. 



Alpine Plants 332 

Annuals, hardy, sowing 348 

Selections 156 

April, Operations in 349 

Aquatic Plants. 334 

Architecture, American 14 

Arrangement 161 

Associations, Kural Improvement. .300 

August, Operations in 361 

" Beautiful Paris," a model 2S1 

Beds, Raised Geometric 214 

Beetle, Sod 324 

Bird Houses 243 

Boat Houses 244 

Border, Arabesque 216 

Ribbon 215 

Scroll 215 

Borders 331 

Borders and Flower Beds 360 

Boulevards, Garden 288 

Boulevards of Paris. . . .. 282 

Boundaries, Planting of 196 

Boundary Wall, Hidden 177 

Box Edging 352 

Bridge of Rocks . .226 

Bridges 242 

Carpet Bedding 207 

Carpet, Beds. Plants for 213 

Cemeteries, Garden 301 

Church Yards 275 

Cities, Shade Trees in 20 

Climbers as Festoons 205 

as Screens and Arches 204 

on Arbors 203 

on Fences and Gate-posts 200 

on Houses 201 

on Verandas 203 

Pruning of. . . . 344 

Uses of 169 

Clipped Trees 223-351 

Clover, White 24 

Conservatories 245 

Conservatory, Detached, Gothic 245 

Conservatory over Bay Window 271 

Coping, Stone 238 

Corners, Designs for 215 

Curve Rod 311 

Curves, to Lay Out 311 

December, Operations in 368 

Draining 313 

Drives 327 

Dutch Bulbs. Planting of 364 

Evergreens. Pruning of 350 

Farms, Tree Planting on 18 

February, Operations in 339 

Fence, Tight Board '. 239 

Fences 236 

Hurdle 237 

Sunken 177 

(371) 



Ferns, Hardy 218 

Ferns, Soil for 332 

Fertilizers 345 

Float for Leveling 320 

Flower Beds 331 363 

and Borders 366 

Designs for .• 211 

Location of 216 

Flowers, Misuse of 209 . 

Flowering and Ornamental Plants. 206 

Fountains 230 

Front Lots, Adorning Small 249 

Frosts, Early 364 

Garden Architecture 335 

Gardening, Ornamental, American 

Progress in 12 

Literature of 11 

Materials of 23 

Past, Present, and Future 9 

Profits of. 16 

Requirements of American 10 

Time Required for Effects 21 

Gardens, Constructing 308 

Hospital and Asylum 275 

Hotel 277 

Public Town 2S0 

Railroad Station 278 

School 273 

Grass, Creeping Bent 24 

Dog's Tail 24 

Green or June 24 

Kentucky Blue 24 

Perennial Rye 24 

Red Fescue 24 

Red Top 24 

Reed Canary 24 

Rhode Island Bent 24 

Sweet Vernal 24 

Tall Fescue 24 

Yellow Oat... 24 

Grasses 24 

Agrostis alba, var. stoloriifera.. . 24 

Agrostis vulgaris ' 24 

Anthroxanthum odoratum 24 

Avena flavescens 24 

Cynosurus cristalus ■ 24 

Festuca elatior 24 

Festuca ovina, var. rubra 24 

Loliurn perenne 24 

Phalaris arwulinacea 24 

Poa pratemis 24 

Gravel Walks, Care of. 346 

Green-house, Lean-to 246 

Grotto, Artificial 224 

Ground, The, and the Grass 23 

Grounds, A Comer Lot 253 

A Deep Front Lot 251 

Adornment of Small 247 

and Street Level 170 



372 



ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 



Grounds,Buffalo Park,Grounils near. 262 

Final Shaping 316 

Farm made Park-like 263 

Five and one-half Acre Garden .:''<'> 

Four Acres on Hillside 255 

Garden Front to Row of Houses. 2V.t 

Laying Out ' 310 

Three-fourths of an Acre 254 

Three long Lots form a Joint 

Garden 260 

Work on 312 

Hanging Baskets 268 

Hardy Plants 351-365 

Hedges 231 

Evergreen 351 

Pruning 344 

Stiles for 233 

nigh ways, Planting 298 

Home Buildings. . .' 166 

Hood for Protect ing Plants 369 

Improvements, Planning 308 

Insects 361 

Canker Worms 349 

January, Operations in 337 

July, Operations in 361 

June, Operations in 357 

Lakelet, Improved 228 

Lawn, Care of 346-353 

Grouping on 191 

Seeding 326 

Lawns, French Method with 217 

Major and Minor Embellishments. .162 

Manure 344 

Manuring. Fall 368 

March, Operations in 346 

May, Operations in 353 

Miscellaneous Natural Materials. ..160 

Mulching. Summer 350 

Nature as a Teacher 161 

November, Operations in... ..368 

October, Operations in 365 

Ovals, to Form 311 

Park, Central 202 

Parks, Small Town 294 

Pests 339 

Plant Houses 245 

Plant Vases, Boxes, etc 268 

Planting, Manner of. 322 

Planting, Time for 320 

Plants, Aquatic anil Bog 334 

Plants. Planting out' Tender 355 

Paris, Past. Present, and Future.. 2S3 

Parks, Public 279 

Protection, Fall 368 

Pruning Deciduous Shrubs 341 

Deciduous Trees 339 

Summer 359 

Rabbits and Mice 339 

Rhododendrons 332 

Rill, Improved 229 

Road-making 329 

McAdam 330 

Stone in Sand 330 

Telford... 330 

Rock Archway 224 

Border 221 

Bridge 22ii 

Garden 221 



Rock Grotto 224 

work 220 

work. Making 333 

Rocks, Substitutes for 227 

Roof Gardens 269 

Roses .. 347 

Insects on 355 

Rural Improvement Association 300 

Rustic-work 336-345 

Seat, Folding 240 

Garden, Shaded 239 

Stone or Marble 240 

Seedlings 367 

Seed Sowing 363 

Autumn 366 

September, Operations in 364 

Shrubs, Comparative size of. 25 

Deciduous 27 

Rate of Growth of 21-22 

Scatterings of 195 

Use in Small Places 252 

Utility of. 185 

Slopes, Gauge for 319 

Snows, Danger from 370 

Sports 357 

Stiles 233 

Structures, Foundations for 336 

Subtropical Gardens 218 

Suckers and Sprouts 357 

Summerhouse, Rustic 241 

Surface, The 167 

Tender Perennials 159 

Terraces, Shaping 319 

Town Squares, Small 297 

Towns, Park System for 287 

Trees and Shrubs, Control, ing Hab- 
its of 358 

Trees, Clipped 223 

Comparative Size of. 25 

Deciduous 27 

Future Size of 197 

Grouping of 1S6 

Ileeling-in 321 

Planting in Cities 20 

Planting on Farms 18 

Rate of Growth of. 21-22 

Trees, Shrubs, and Flowers. Group- 
ing of 189 

Trellises 346 

Trenching 315 

Turf, Cutting, and Laving 324 

Undulating Borders 1GS 

Walks 327 

and Drives 177 

as Embellishment 181 

Curved and Straight 17.S 

Objective points in 189 

Wall of Brick 23$ 

Water Fowl 231 

Water in Gardening 227 

Trees near 230 

Watering in Summer 861 

Weeds 354 

Wild Garden 818 

Window Boxes for Plants 897 

Window Gardens 255 

Woodwork, Care of 336 



INDEX OF TEEES AND - SHBUBS. 



373 



Acacia, Japanese 59 

Ailantbus 53 

Alder, Black 83 

Common Cut-leaved 55 

European 54 

Ha wi horn-leaved 55 

Hoary 55 

Imperial Cut-leaved 54 

Linden-leaved 55 

Oak-leaved. 55 

Red-leaved 55 

Speckled 55 

Almond, Double White 64 

Dwarf 64 

Flowering 64 

Andromeda, Catesby's 97 

Free Blooming 97 

Marsh 97 

Angelica Tree 73 

Apple, Flowering 60 

Aralia, Mandschurian 72 

Arbor Vitas, American 107 

Buisl's 108 

Burrow's 108 

Chinese 110 

Golden 110 

Rollin=on s 110 

Weeping Chinese 110 

Dwarf Dense 108 

Geo. Peabody 108 

Globe-headed 108 

Hacker's 109 

Heath-leaved 108 

HooDes' Dwarf 109 

Hovey's 108 

Nee"s Plicate 108 

Oriental 110 

Parsons' 108 

Queen Victoria's 108 

Round-headed 109 

Siberian 108 

Tom Thumb 109 

Upright 108 

Vervsene's 108 

Weeping 108 

Ash, American White 44 

Aucuba leaved. ii 

Bosc's 44 

Cloth-like leaved 44 

European 45 

Dwarf Crisp-leaved 45 

Dwarf Globe-headed 45 

Golden-barked 45 

Hooded-leaved 45 

Single-leaved 45 

Variegated-leaved 45 

Weeping 45 

Willow-leaved 45 

Flowering 45 

Gold-spotted-leaved 44 

RufOus-haired 44 

Showy 45 

Walnut-leaved 4-1 

Weeping 45 



Aspen, American 35 

Large American Weeping 35 

Azalea, Clammy. .• 95 

Flame-colored 95 

Hybrids..... 95 

Oriental 72 

Purple 95 

Smooth 95 

Balsam Fir 104 

Barberry, American 86 

European 86 

Evergreen 117 

Purple-leaved 86 

Violet-l'ruited 86 

Basswood 46 

Bayberry. 98 

Beech 40 

American 41 

Broad-leaved. 41 

Copper 41 

Crested-leaved 42 

Cut-leaved 42 

European 41 

Fern-leaved 42 

Golden Variegated 41 

Large-leaved 41 

Purple-leaved 41 

Purple. Rivers' 41 

Weeping 41 

Bilsted 53 

Birch, Canoe 57 

Cherry 57 

Cut-leaved Weeping 57 

Downy-leaved 57 

Elegant Weeping 57 

European, White 56 

Graceful Weeping 57 

Indian Paper 58 

Nettle-leaved 57 

Paper 57 

Purple-leaved 57 

Pyramidal 57 

Sweet 57 

Yellow 58 

Young's Weeping 57 

Black Alder 83 

Blackberry, Cut-leaved 91 

Double 91 

Bladder-nut, Amei icaii 81 

Asiatic 81 

European 81 

Bladder Senna, Aleppo 81 

Common 81 

Oriental . ... SI 

Box 117 

Box Elder 40 

Bramble, Purple !S4 

White 94 

Buckthorn 08 

Burning-bush 73 

Broad-leaved 73 

European 73 

Purple-leaved 73 

Butternut 36 



374 



ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 



Button-bush S3 

Button-wood 37 

Buckeye 32 

Dark Red 33 

Dwarf Pendulous 34 

Flesh-colored 33 

Long-racemed 34 

Ohio 33 

Purple 34 

Small 34 

Whitley's 24 

Yellow 33 ! 

Callicarpa 8") 

Calycanihus 84 

Caragana 70 

Carolina Allspice S4 

Catalpa, Bunge's 4i 

Common 42 

Dwarf, American 43 

Golden 43 

Hardy 43 

Kaempferi. .'. 43 

Cedar, California White 107 

Deodar 107 

Indian 107 

Japan 1 07 

Mount Atlas 107 

Lebanon 107 

White 106 

Dwarf 106 

Variegated 106 

Cercidiphyllum 50 

Cherry, Aucuba-leaved 63 

Double-flowering 63 

European Bird 63 

Weeping 63 

Cinquefoil, Shrubby 98 

Clethra 85 

Acuminate-leaved 85 

Clethra, Alder-leaved 85 

Corchorus 97 

Cornelian Cherry 67 

Variegated 67 

Cotoneaster, Box-leaved 88 

Downy 88 

Frigid 88 

Loose-flowered 88 

Money- wort-leaved !->8 

Round-leaved 88 

Crab, Chinese Double, Rose-flower- 
ing 60 

Garland, Flowering 60 

Rivers' Semi-double 61 

Currant, Crimson-flowered 87 

Gordon's 87 

Missouri 87 

Yellow-flowered 87 

Cypress, Lawson's 106 

Pyramidal 106 

Silver-leaved 10 j 

Upright 106 

Variegated 106 

Weeping 106 

Nootka Sound 106 

Deciduous Cypress.. . 52 

Chinese Weeping 52 

Weeping 52 

Deutzia, Crenate-leaved 95 



Dcntzia, Graceful 95 

Rough-leaved M 

Dogwood, Alternate-leaved 66 

European ti7 

Flowering 66 

Osier (17 

Red-branched 67 

Red Siberian 67 

Round-leaved 66 

Weeping 66 

Elder, American 71 

Cut-leaved 71 

European 71 

Golden-leaved 71 

Variegated-leaved 71 

Elm 27 

American, White 27 

Ash-colored 29 



29 



Belgian 

Blandford's 

Broad-leaved 

Cornish 

Dampier's Pyramidal .. 

Dove's 2» 

English 27 

Berard's 27 

Clemmer's 27 

Cork-barked 27 

Curled-leaved 28 

Golden-leaved 28 

Nettle-leaved 28 

Plume-like 28 

Purple-leaved 28 

Serrate-leaved 28 

Twigiry 2J 

Variegated-leaved 28 

Webb's Curled-leaved 27 

Weeping Cork-barked 27 

Weeping, Small-leaved 27 

Monumental 28 

Red 29 

Superb 29 

Scotch 28 

Crisp-leaved Weeping 29 

Huntingdon's... 29 

Rough-leaved Weeping 29 

White Margined 29 

Slippery 29 

Weeping 29 

Weeping 27 

Weeping Camperdown 23 

Wych 28 

Exochurda 89 

Fir, Hudson's Bay Dwarf. . . . 105 

Pinsapo 105 

Flowering Apple 60 

Forsvthia. Fortune's 84 

Very Green 84 

Weeping 84 

French Mnlb.-rrv 85 

Fringe-tree. Virginian (ill 

Girl.md Flower 98 

Golden Bell 84 

Golden Cham M 

Ginkgo 48 

Broad-leaved 49 

Variegated-leaved 49 

Hackberry CO 



375 



Hackmatack 44 

Hazelnut, American 84 

Constantinople. 85 

Cut-leaved 84 

Purple-leaved 84 

Hemlock Spruce 104 

Dwarf 104 

Dense 104 

Sargent's Weeping 104 

Small-leaved 104 

Hercules' Club 73 

Hickories 36 

Hickory. Common 36 

Shell Bark 36 

High Bush Cranberry 76 

Hobble Bush 77 

Holly, American 113 

Honey Locust 59 

Cuspian 59 

Chinese 59 

Thornless 59 

Weeping 59 

Honeysuckles, Bush 77 

English Fly 78 

Fragrant 77 

Ledebour's 77 

Mountain 78 

Standish's 78 

Tartarian 77 

Hop-Hornbeam 65 

Hop-Tree 72 

Hornbeam, American 65 

English 65 

Hop 65 

Horse-cliestnut 32 

Chinese 33 

Cut-leaved 32 

European.. . . . 32 

Double Red 32 

Double White 32 

Van Houtte's Dwarf 32 

Memminger's 32 

Red-flowering 32 

Golden 32 

Dwarf 32 

Hydrangea. Changeable 86 

Large-flcwered 86 

Panicled 86 

Indian Bean 43 

Indian Currant 96 

Indigo. False, Common 83 

Inkberry 83 

Ironwood. 65 

Japan Globe Flower. 97 

Judas-tree, American 65 

Oriental 66 

June-berry 62 

Juniper, American Pyramidal Ill 

Canadian Trailing lid 

Chinese 112 

Common 110 

Daurian 112 

Globular 112 

Irish Ill 

Japanese 112 

Lee's 112 

Lovely 112 

Polish Ill 



I Juniper, Prostrate 112 

Reeves' 112 

Robust Irish ill 

Savin in 

Cypress-leaved ill 

Tamarisk-leaved Ill 

Variegated-leaved Ill 

Scaled 112 

Swedish Ill 

Kentucky Coffee Tree 53 

Koelreuteria 65 

Laburnum, Alpine 65 

Alschinger's 64 

Common 64 

Large-leaved 65 

Oak-leaved... 65 

Park's 64 

Purple-flowered 65 

Scotch 65 

Larch, American 44 

European 43 

Glaucous 43 

Weeping 43 

Japan 44 

Laurel, Broad-leaved . . 1 14 

Narrow-leaved 114 

Lead plant 8:t 

Leather-leaf 97 

Lilac, Chinese 70 

Common 69 

Emod's 70 

French Red 70 

Golden-leaved 69 

Josika's 70 

Persian 69 

Rouen 70 

Verschaffelt's 70 

Lime 46 

Linden, American 46 

Broad-leaved 46 

European 46 

Broad-leaved 46 

Fern-leaved 46 

Golden Broad leaved 47 

Grape-leaved 46 

Hairy-styled 47 

Pyramidal. 47 

Red Cut-leaved 46 

Red-i wigged 47 

Small-leaved 46 

Whiie-leaved 46 

White-leaved Weeping 46 

Yellow-twigged 47 

Japan 47 

Liquidambar 53 

Locust, Besson's 58 

Black 58 

Clammy 59 

Globe 5S 

Golden 58 

Honey 59 

Moss 59 

Parasol 58 

Pyramidal 58 

Rose 59 

Yellow 58 

Madeira Nut 36 

Magnolia .. 49 



376 



ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 



Magnolia. Chinese White 50 

Cucumber 49 

Ear-leaved 50 

Great Laurel 50 

Great-leaved 50 

Hall's Japan 51 

Heart-sliaped 50 

Lenne's 52 

Norbert's 52 

Purple 50 

Showy-flowering 52 

Slender-growing 51 

Soulange's 52 

Sweet Bay 50 

Long-leaved 50 

Thompson's 52 

Umbrella 50 

Very Dark Purple 51 

Mahonia 1 17 

Maiden Hair Tree 45 

Maple 37 

Ash-leaved 40 

Curled 40 

Variegated 40 

Black Sugar 37 

Cork-barked 40 

Curled-leaf 38 

Douglas' Sycamore 38 

Dwarf Scarlet 37 

Eagle's Claw 38 

English 40 

European Sycamore f;S 

Golden-leaved 38 

Japanese 39 

Large-leaved 40 

Lorberg's 38 

Norway 37 

cut-leaved 38 

Palmate-leaved 40 

Red 37 

Ked Colchicum 39 

Schwerdhr's 38 

Silver-leaved 38 

Crisp-leaved 38 

New Cm -leaved 38 

Warner's Cut-leaved 33 

Striped 40 

Sugar 37 

Swamp 37 

Sycamore 39 

Tartarian 40 

Velvety 39 

Medlar 62 

Mespilus 62 

Mezereum 98 

Mist-Tree 68 

Mock Orange 75 

Dwarf 75 

Double 75 

Garland 75 

Golden-leaved 75 

Gordon's Late, 



Large-flowering. 
~ed-t " 



Red-twigged — 

Mountain Ash 60 

American 61 

Elder-leaved 61 

European 61 



Mountain Ash, Hybrid 61 

Oak-leaved (il 

Weeping 61 

Mulberry, Black 5j 

Downing's Ever-bearing 55 

Japan 56 

Paper 50 

Red 55 

White 55 

Nettle Tree, American 60 

European 50 

Nut-bearing Trees 36 

Oak. Burr 30 

Chestnut 30 

Cut-leaved, 30 

English Royal 30 

Contorted-leaved 31 

Curled Pyramidal 31 

Cut leaved 31 

Dark leaved 31 

Golden-leaved 31 

Laige-leaved 31 

Louett's 30 

Purple-leaved 31 

Pyramidal 31 

Silver leaved 31 

Weeping 31 

Japanese 31 

Mongolian 31 

Mossy-cup 30 

Pin 30 

Red 30 

Scarlet 30 

Shingle 30 

Southern Over-cup 30 

Swamp, White 30 

Turkey 31 

White 30 

Willow 30 

Oleaster, European 82 

Garden 83 

Silver-leaved 82 

Osage Orange (it 

Paper Mulberry 56 

Paulownia 56 

Peach, Blood-leaved U 

Flowering 64 

Pea-tree, Arborescent 71 

Chinese 80 

Siberian 70 

Pepperidge 54 

Persimmon, American 59 

European (>0 

Japan 60 

Pine, Austrian 99 

Bentliam's 100 

Biack 99 

California Mountain 101 

Cluster 100 

Corsican 99 

Dwarf, or Mountain 100 

Heavy-wooded 101 

Highland 100 

Jeffrey's 1(11 

Lofty Bhotan 101 

Mul;!io 100 

Lambert's 110 

Pitch 101 



INDEX. 



377 



Pine, Pyrenean 100 

Sabine's 101 

Scotch 100 

Short-leaved, Yellow 100 

Swiss Stone 102 

Table Mountain 100 

Taurian ... 100 

Weymouth 101 

White 101 

Compact White 101 

Silver-white 101 

Plane. American 37 

Oriental 37 

Plums, Dwarf Double-flowering.... 63 

Flowering 63 

Poplar 34 

Abele 35 

Athenian Weeping 35 

Balsam 35 

Carolina 35 

" Eugenie" ' 35 

Cottonwood 35 

Gray 35 

Lombardy 35 

Necklace 35 

Parasol de St. Julien 35 

Silver 35 

Weeping 35 

White 35 

See Aspen. 

Privet, Box-leaved 83 

Common 82 

Laurel-leaved 82 

Oval-leaved 82 

Weepinir 82 

White-berried 82 

Purple Fringe OS 

Quince, Japan 87 

Red-bud 65 

Red Cedar Ill 

Bedford's 112 

Light Green 112 

Silvery-leaved Ill 

Variegated, alba 112 

aurea 112 

Weeping Ill 

Retinispora, obtuse-leaved 109 

Pea-fruited 109 

Golden 109 

Heath-like 109 

Thready-branched 109 

Plume-like 109 

Silver-tipped 108 

Gold-tipped 109 

Sqnarrose 109 

Rhododendron, American 116 

Hybrids 116 

Pontic 116 

Rose, Bengal 93 

Bourbon 93 

China 93 

Climbing 92 

Hybrid Noisette... 93 

Perpetual, or Remontants. ... 92 

Tea 93 

June, or Summer 93 

Moss 92 

Prairie 93 



Rose, Tea 93 

Yellow, or Austrian 92 

of Sharon 74 

St. Johnswort 89 

Kalm's 89 

Shrubby 89 

Sassafras 61 

Service-berry 62 

Shad-flower 62 

Shrubby Althaea 74 

Shrubby Trefoil 72 

Silver-bell Tree 71 

Silver Fir Cephalonian 105 

Cilician 105 

Great 105 

Lovely 105 

Noble 105 

Nordinann's 105 

Siberian 105 

Smoke-tree 68 

Snowball 76 

Japan 76 

Snowberry 96 

Snowy Mespiltis 62 

Sophora, Japan 54 

Weeping 54 

Sour Gum 54 

Spice Bush 72 

Spindle Tree 73 

Spiraea 89 

Billard's 90 

Douglas's 90 

Fortune's 90 

Golden-leaved 90 

Mountain-Ash-leaved 91 

Plum-leaved 00 

Reeves' 90 

Thunberg's 90 

Spruce, Black 103 

Colorado Blue 103 

Douglas's 104 

Doumets' 103 

Dwarf White 103 

Glaucous 103 

Hemlock 104 

Himalayan 104 

Menzies' 103 

Norway 102 

Barry's . ..: 102 

Clanbrasil's 103 

Conical 103 

Ellwanger's Dwarf 103 

Finedon Hall 102 

Gregory's Dwarf 103 

Inverted-branched 102 

Maxwell's 103 

Pigmy Dwarf 103 

Pyramidal 102 

Small-formed 103 

Obovate-coned 104 

Oriental 104 

Smith's 104 

White 103 

Stagger-bush 97 

Strawberry Bush 73 

Stuartia 78 

Styrax, Japan 89 

Sumach, Cut-leaved 69 



378 



ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 



Sumach, Fragrant 

Osbcck's Chinese. 

Staghorn 

Venetian 

Sweet Gum 

Sweet Pepper Bush . 
Sweet-scented Shrub.. 



ark 



Tamarisk 72 

Thorn, Common Hawthorn (i7 

Evergreen 07 

Torreya. Californian 113 

Florida 113 

Japanese 113 

Umbrella Pine 113 

Viburnum, Lantaua-leavcd 77 

Nepal 77 

Plum-leaved 77 

Rough-leaved 77 

Virgilia 51 

Walnut, Black 36 

European 30 

Cut-leaved 36 

Dwarf 38 

Wax-berry 96 

Wax Myrtle 98 

Way-faring Tree 77 

Weigela, Rose-colored 80 

Variegated-leaved 80 

White-flowered 80 

White Alder 85 

White Cedar 108 

'• White Cedar " 107 

Wig-Tree 08 



Wild Olive 82 

Willow, American Weeping 48 

Babylonian 47 

Fountain 48 

Goat 47 

Three-colored 48 

Weeping 47 

Golden 47 

Japan Weeping 48 

Kilmarnock Weeping 47 

Laurel-leaved 48 

Palm-leaved 48 

Ring-leaved . 48 

Rosemary-leaved 48 

Royal 48 

Salmon's Weeping 47 

Shiny-leaved 48 

Silky Weeping 48 

Wisconsin Weeping. .. . 48 

Wolsey's Weeping 84 

Winterberry. Common 83 

Smooth leaved 83 

Witch Hazel OS 

Withe-rod 77 

Yellow-wood 53 

Yew, American 114 

Beautiful 114 

Dovai-ton's 114 

English 114 

Golden 114 

Irish 114 

Japanese 144 

Weeping 110 

Fulan 15 



INDEX OF HARDY HERBACEOUS PLANTS. 



Acanthus 134 

Aconite 138 

Acorns 1:34 

Adam's Needle 137 

Adder's Tongue 127 

Adonis, Spring 135 

Aletris 138 

Alfivdia Nodding 125 

Allium, Golden 138 

Alstrsemeria 138 

Amiant hiuin 138 

Ainsonia 139 

Anemone 125, 139 

Ant liericum 125 

Artemisia 135 

Arundo Donax 135 

Asphodel 139 

Aster 139 

Astilhe, Japan 125 

Avens. Scarlet 142 

Baneberry 138 

Baptisia 139 

Bee-Balm 1-14 

Bell-Flower 1>6 

Bellwort 145 

Berlandiera 140 

Bitter Vetch 131 

Blazing Star 129 



Bleeding Heart 127 

Bocconia 135 

Boltonia 140 

Bowman's Root !42 

Brodseia 140 

Brunella 140 

Bugle, Blue-flowered 138 

Red-leaved 135 

Bupthalmum 135 

Buttercup 144 

Butterfly Tuiip 140 

Weed 139 

Callirrho" 140 

Campanula 126 

Canada Tick-Trefoil 138 

Candvtnft. Perennial 128 

Cardinal Flower 143 

Catch-fly 131, 133 

Catnip. Mussin's 144 

Centaurea 140 

Chelone 140 

Cinquefoil, Pyrenian 144 

Clary, Silver 137 

Clematis, Erect 140 

Clintonia 140 

Colchicum ISti 

Colic Root 138 

Columbine 125 



379 



Corafrey, Variegated 

Compass PlaEt 

Cone-Flower 



13T 

137 

141 

Coreopsis 140 

Coronilla 141 

Costmary 145 

Crosswort 141 

Cianesbill 142 

Crocus 126 

Crowfoot 144 

Crown Imperial 127 

Cupiiione 140 

Cup Plant... 137 

Daffodil 131 

Daisy 125 

Damo's Violet 128 

Day Lily 128,136 

Desmodium.. 128 

Dog's Tootli Violet 127 

Doronicum 141 

Dragon Head 144 

Dropwort 133 

Eringo ia^ 

Eupatorium 142 

Evening Primrose 144 

False Indigo 139 

Feverfew 132 

Flag 129 

Flame-Flower 133 

Flax, Perennial 143 

Fleabane. Rose 142 

FleurdeLis 129 

Flower of Jove 131 

Forget-Me-Not 131 

Foxglove 127 

Fraxinella 127 

Fuukia 127 

Gaura 142 

Gentian 142 

Geranium 142 

Gillenia.. 142 

Globe Thistle 135 

Golden Aster 141 

Golden Rod ...145 

Grass, Ribbon 134 

Grasses. Ornamental 135 

Greek Valerian 132 

Groundsel 144 

Gypsophila 142 

Harebell 126 

Hawkweed 143 

Heart's-ease 134 

Hedge Nettle 145 

Hoi lyhock .126 

Horsemiut 144 

Hyacinths 128 

Hyssop 143 

Iris 129 

Jacob's Ladder 132 

Jonquil 129 

Knotweed 144 

Larkspur 126 

Lavender Cotton 137 



Lin 



.109 



Lilies ISO 

Lily of the Valley 126 

Lobelia 143 

Leopard's Bane 141 



Loosestrife 129,143 

Lotus 143 

Lungwort.... 132,143 

Lupine 143 

Lychuis 131 

Mallow, Moren's 143 

May Apple, Oregon 138 

Meadow Rue 145 

Meadow Saffron 126 

Meadow-Sweet 133 

Milfoil 138 

Milkweed ..139 

Mimulus 144 

Mint. Variegated 136 

Monarda 144 

Moneywort 143 

Monkey Flower 144 

Monkshood 134,138 

Moss Pink 132 

Mountain Everlasting 139 

Mountain Spurge 144 

Nierembergia 144 

Pachysandra 144 

Paeony 131 

Pansy 134 

Pasque Flower, American 139 

Pea, Perennial 129 

Pentstemon 132 

Pents'.emon, Scarlet 144 

Periwinkle 134 

Phlox, Perennial 132 

Pink 127 

Pink Root 133 

Plantain Lily 127, 136 

Polyanthus 132 

Polygonum 144 

Poppy, Perennial 132 

Primrose 132 

Pulmonaria 132 

Purity 133 

Pyrethrum 132 

Queen of the Prairie .133 

Ragged Robin 131 

Ranunculus 144 

Red-hot Poker Plant 133 

Reed 135 

Rhubarb 136 

Rocket Flower 128 

Rose Mallow 143 

Sage, Southern 132 

Variegated 137 

St. Bernard's Lily.... 144 

St. Bruno's Lily 125 

Sati n Flower .145 

Sea Pink 145 

Senecio 144 

Senna, American 140 

Sisyrinchium 145 

Skullcap 144 

Solomon's Seal 145 

Snake's Head 140 

Sneezewort, Double 138 

Snowdrop 128 

Suowflake 130 

Speedwell 134 

Spigelia 133 

Spiraeas, Herbaceous 133 

Spurge — 143 



380 



ORNAMENTAL GARDENING. 



Squil! 133 

Stachvs 145 

Star Flower, Spring 145 

Star Grass 138 

Star of Bethlehem 131 

Stokesia. Blue 133 

Stork's Bill 142 

Sunflower 142 

Graceful 136 

Sweet William 127 

Thalictrum 145 

Thrift 145 

Thyme, Variegated 137 

Trefoil, Bird's-foot 143 

Triteleia 145 

Tritoma ...133 

Tulips 133 



Turfing Daisy 144 

TJvularia 145 

Valerian 145 

Red ..140 

Verbena, Hardy 145 

Veronica 134 

Violet 134 

Virginia Cowslip 143 

White Cup 144 

Whorl Flower 136 

Winter Aconite 142 

Wood Hyacinth 133 

Woodruff 125 

Wormwood 135 

Yarrow 138 

Yucca 137 



INDEX OE CLIMBERS. 



Actinidia polygama 122 

Akebia quinata 122 

'•American Ivy " 118 

Ampelopsis 118 

Clematis 121 

Climbing Bittersweet 122 

Cocculus Carolina 123 

Dutchman's Pipe 122 

Grape Vine 123 

Grecian Silk 123 



Honeysuckles 120 

Ivy, European 123 

Jessamine, White 123 

Moonseed, Canadian 123 

Pepper Vine 118 

Staff Tree 122 

Trumpet Vine 122 

Virginia deeper 118 

Wistaria 119 

Woodbine, Common 120 



INDEX OF ALPINE AND ROCK PLANTS. 



Acantholimon 146 

Alyssum 146 

Arabis 146 

Areuaria 146 

Aubrietia 146 

Barrenwort 147 

Bluels 147 

Bulbocodium 146 

Camassia 146 

Catchfly, Alpine 149 

Catchfly. German 147 

Cirastium 146 

Claytonia 147 

Clematis, Herbaceous 147 

Columbine, Wild 146 

Epimedium 147 

Erinus. Alpine 147 

Gentian, Stemless 147 

Geum, Mountain 147 

Golden Tuft 146 

Ground Ivy 147 

Harebell 146 

Houseleek 149 

Houstonia 147 

Kidney Vetch 146 

Live-for-ever 149 

Lychnis, Rock 147 

Meadow Saffron, Spring 146 



1 Milfoil, Woolly 146 

Mitchella 147 

Mouse-ear Cbiekweed 146 

Opuntia 147 

Partridge Berry 147 

Phlox 147 

Pine-barren Beauty 148 

Prickly Pear 147 

Pyxidanthera 148 

Quamash ■ 146 

Rock Cress 146 

Sandwort 146 

Saxifrage 118 

Sedum 149 

Sempervivum 149 

Soapwort, Rock 148 

Speedwell, Alpine 149 

Spring Beauty ;.147 

Straw berry, Barren 149 

Stonecrop 149 

Thrift, Common 146 

Prickly 146 

Toadflax. Alpine 147 

Tunica. Rock 149 

Waklsteinia 149 

Wallflower. Alpine 147 

Wood Sorrel 146 



INDEX. 



381 



INDEX OF AQUATIC AND BOG PLANTS. 



153 

Arrow Head 155 

Calopogon 153 

Caltha 153 

Calypro, Northern 153 

Cardinal Flower 154 

Cat-Tail 155 

Centaury 154 

Cypripedium 153 

Darlingtonia 154 

Drosera 154 

Fringed Orchis 154 

Globe Flower 155 

Sabbatia 154 

Sarracenia 155 

Sundew 154 

Sweet Flag 153 



Golden Club 154 

Grass of Parnassus 154 

Green Dragon 153 

Habenaria 154 

Ladies' Slipper 153 

Marsh Calla 154 

Marsh Marigold 153 

Orontium 154 

Pickerel Weed 155 

Pitcher Plant: 155 

Pitcher Plant, California. 154 

Pogonia 154 

Pontederia 155 

Trollius 155 

Typha 155 

Water Lily 154 

Water Shield 153 



INDEX OF FERNS AND SHADE-LOVING PLANTS. 



Adam and Eve 150 

Anemone 150 

Aplectrum '. 150 

Asarum 150 

Bloodroot 152 

Bunch-berry 150 

Christmas Rose 152 

Club Moss 152 

Cornus, Dwarf 150 

Cowslip, American 150 

Cypripedium 150 

Dodecatlieon 150 

False Solomon's Seal 152 

Ferns 151 

Fritillaria 152 

Helleborus 152 

Helonias, Spiked 152 

Hepatica 152 

Jack in the Pulpit 150 

Lady's Slipper 150 



Liverleaf 152 

May Apple 153 

Meadow Beauty -. .152 

Orchis, Showy 152 

Podophyllum 153 

Polygala, Fringed 152 

Ramondia 152 

Rattlesnake Plantain 152 

Rbexia 152 

Selaginella 152 

Shooting Star 150 

Smilacina 152 

Snakeroot, Canada 150 

Snakeroot, Virginian 150 

Solomon's Seal, False .152 

Trailing Arbutus 150 

Trillium 152—153 

Violet 153 

Wake Robin 152—153 

Wood Lily 153 



Gardening for Young and Old. 

THE 

CULTIVATION OF GARDEN VEGETABLES IN THE 
FARM GARDEN. 

By JOSEPH HARRIS, M.S., 

Author of "Walks and Talks on the Faivn," "Harrison the Pig" "Talks on 
Manures" etc. 




CONTENTS. 
Introduction.— An Old and a New Garden.- Gardening for Boys. --How to 
Begin.— Preparing the Soil— Killing the Weeds.— About High Farming.— Com- 
petition in Crops.— The Manure Question.— The Implements Needed.— Start- 
ing Plants in the House or in the Hot-bed.— The Window-box.— Making the 
Hot bed.- C »ld Frames.— Insects.— The Use of Poisons.— The Care of Poisons. 
—The Cultivation of Vegetables in the Farm Garden.— The Cultivation of 
Flowers. 

ILLLUSTRATED. 

12mo. Cloth. Price, post paid, $1.25. 

ORANGE JUDD COMPANY, 751 Broadway, New York. 
DAVID W. JUDD, Pres't. SAM'L BUENHAM Sec. 



Gardening for Profit: 

A GUIDE TO THE SUCCESSFUL CULTIVATION OF THE 

Market and Family Garden. 

By PETER HENDERSON, 

Author of 'Practical Floriculture" and "Gardening for Pleasure.' 1 '' 

FINELY ILLUSTRATED. 

A now well known and standard work on Market and Family Gardening. It 
is the first book of the kind prepared by a Market Gardener, in this country. 
The author's successful experience of more than twenty-five years, enables him 
to give a most valuable record. It is an original and purely American work, and 
not made up, as books on gardening too often are, by quotations from foreign 
authors. Everything is made perfectly plain, and the subject treated in all its 
details, from the selection of the soil to preparing the products for market. 
Cloth, 12mo. PRICE, POST-PAID, $1.50. 



Gardening' for Pleasure: 

A GUIDE TO THE AMATEUR IN THE 

Fruit, Vegetable, and Flower G-arden 

WITH FULL DIRECTIONS FOR THE 

Greenhouse Conservatory and Window Garden. 

By PETER HENDERSON, 
Author of "Gardening for Profit'' 1 and "Practical Floriculture.' 1 '' 

ILLUSTRATED. 

This work is prepared to meet the wants of ail classes, in Country, City, and 
Village, who keep a Garden for their own enjoyment rather than for the sale of 
products. It is adapted to meet the wants of the amateur in in-door and out- 
door gardening. It is one of the best guides to Window Gardening we know of. 
The work includes fruit, vegetable, and flower-gardening, greenhouses ana 
graperies, window gardening, and Wardian cases. Cloth, 12nio. 
PRICE, POST-PAID, $1.50. 

ORANGE JUDD COMPANY, 751 Broadway, New York. 
DAVID W. JUDD, Pres't. SAM'L BUBNHAM Sec. 



Practical Forestry. 




A TREATISE ON THE PROPAGATION, PLANTING, AND CULTITATION, 
WITH A DESCRIPTION, AND THE BOTANICAL AND POPULAR NAMES 

OF ALL THE 

INDIGEiNOUS TREES OF THE UNITED STATES, 

BOTH EVERGREEN AND DECIDUOUS, 

WITH NOTES ON A LARGE NUMBER OF THE MOST VALUABLE 

EXOTIC SPECIES. 

By ANDREW S. FULLER, 

Author of " Strawberry Culturist," " Grape Culturist," "SmallFruit Culturist," etc. 

ILLUSTRATED. 
CLOTH, 12mo. PRICE, POST-PAID, $1.50. 

ORANGE JUDD COMPANY, 
DAVID W. JUDD, Preset. SAM'L BUENHAM, Sec. 

751 BROADWAY, NEW YORK. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



DQDQTia5bQ7 






■ 



19H 

n 



